rejracer

mount the pump near the tank, it makes the routing of the fuel lines easy. Then once mounted wire it up. See this thread for a good picture of what I am referring to for the physical mounting: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137238

I am running an N42 with SU's in my 72. I had it leak at that position about 10 years ago. My solution was to replace the gasket, and the problem was solved. I do not know what gasket was leaking (240 or 280), nor can I remember what type of gasket I put in it. What I do recall is that it had more to do with the installation than it did with what type of gasket. I had a helper ensure the manifold was in the up most position to maximize sealing surface area while I snugged it down.

I would go for the 3.90's myself. At that price I would probably go for both of them if you don't know what your end state combination is going to be. Indecision is an expensive long term option. In other words what do you want to do with the car? You can always sell excess parts later too. Fast drag car and streetability are at opposite ends of the requirements spectrum. Turbo? Late 5 speed? Do you want to be able to play around with different ratio's? Are you willing to pull the 280z mustache bar and front cross member to match? Based on what I am assuming, I would go with 3.90's and if you don't already have one, get a 81-83 5 speed to match. It's just an opinion though, you really need to think about what you like in a car, how will you drive it?

I paid 150 with axles from a fellow parting a 280zx out. Ratio was 3.90. Since then I have purchased 2 parts cars, complete. Both are 83's, one turbo and one NA. I will be parting them out when I have pulled the parts I am interested in. So I hope to be in the -several hundred dollars range for mine when it's all said and done. I think a lot of the price has to do with who is pulling it. I showed up at the guys house and he loaded them in the car for me. So I don't think I paid too much.

1994 Impala SS. Yes it's real. One day it will be for sale. PM me to be put on the list. It's black on grey, like every other 94 impala. "mostly" stock, excpet intake, exhaust, pcm, injectors, converter, trans. Room for 4, and their luggage, and enough power to power brake with 4 and luggage. mileage = bad. Don't think of it terms of miles per gallon, think in terms of smiles per gallon. It gets great smileage. I can lay down sideways in the trunk. Weighs twice as much as my 240z

400 locally(Sacramento, CA area). I shopped around and found them as low as 300, but did not move fast enough. eBay seemed to either offer trashed stuff, or the shipping made them closer to 600. One set I recall going for 420 plus 179 shipping. oddly enough I found them on eBay, and the guy lived less than 5 miles from me. We worked a deal off line. What got me started on these seats is I was driving home one day, minding my own business. Off to the side of the road in some field I see what appears to be a seat. I pass it and about 50 feet later say to myself that looks like the seats in my old SRT-4. (I sold it 8 months ago). Then it occurred to me to go investigate this road treasure which hath been bestowed. I looked for the other, all through that field and the rest of the neighborhood to no avail. So now I have one pristine seat, and a 240z which needs (well should have) 2 SRT4 seats. No one wants to sell me just one either. So I finally broke down and bought 2. It's tough buying something you don't need. They are not the lightest seat you can get, but the quality, support and feel is very good imo. Perfect for the Z! Happy Procuring! (ahem be patient).

here are the final install pictures. The hi resolution links for each photo is below the particular image. Notice the height. http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133557O745675152.jpg All the way forward, and it's very tight squeeze. This seat install is S.A.C. (short asian compliant). http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133564O383960259.jpg Are those holes I see in the floor board? Notice the lower rear of the seat, it rests against the seatbelt mech, in other words full motion. Good enough for someone about 6'2 in my estimates. I am 5'7, my dad 5'10, and he could not reach the pedals this far back. http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133574O139739855.jpg On the inside you have 1 inch clearance to the tunnel. Nice and snug fit and aligns the driver up with the steering wheel. instead of rubbing your shoulder on the door, you will rub shoulders with the passenger! http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133605O074018263.jpg To the cat that left the nice mark on the seat: Your fate awaits you. For the rest of you... notice the easy access to the backrest lever, it's about 2 inches clearance. Your fate awaits you too, but I'm sure it much better than the cat's. http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133610O995129314.jpg Passenger side. This is all the way back for the backrest in that angle. If you push the backrest forward the rear of the bottom portion of the seat will hit evenly on the inner and outer seatbelt mount points. Take your time aligning them to get it right, it will pay off. http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133622O767732539.jpg The only downside to this side to side alignment is that the new hole that you drill on the inner mount point. The position is not totally flat. Liberal application of force on tightening the nuts up seems to resolve this. I may get creative with the new welder and some flat stock to rectify the situation. http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133631O637983956.jpg A better shot of the passenger side head rest clearance. It's pretty good, about 2 to 4 inches. http://photo.ringo.com/252/252133635O739555407.jpg Thats it for the fitting of the seats. I still need to remove them and get the brackets painted and pictures of the brackets themselves. I need to get the seats cleaned as well.

I will get some finished installation pictures in a few days. For the time being, here is some how to info. Grinding the brackets off the rails: When done it should look like this: Then put the bolts through the existing threaded holes like such: then tighten the bolts down so they are really tight, and two of the head flats are parallel with the rail. This works with 13mm head bolts. It might not work with 14mm head bolts, and 12's you might not even need to worry about the whole parallel bit. If it slides freely you know its good. This is the incorrect way to have the bolt installed. tighten it down a half flat further! This is the correct way to have them installed: Just the little bit of width from the crowns versus the flats makes this work or not work. An alternate method would be to use studs and either epoxy, loctight, or tack weld them in so they don't turn on you while tightening the nuts down on final installation. I don't have finished pictures yet, but i still need to pull the brackets off to paint them, so I will get the final pics as well the details on the brackets up in about a weeks time. Here are hi res (haha camera phone) links: http://photo.ringo.com/251/251894716O766390431.jpg http://photo.ringo.com/251/251894698O124141342.jpg http://photo.ringo.com/251/251894700O282118464.jpg http://photo.ringo.com/251/251894704O135187031.jpg http://photo.ringo.com/251/251894767O412185363.jpg (hrm... what is that I see where the drivers side seat should be? ) http://photo.ringo.com/251/251894771O545160212.jpg

Procedure: 1. procure seats. Preparing the seats: 2. remove the SRT4 factory seat mounts from the seat rails. This is best accomplished with a die grinder and cutting wheel. 3. place bolts in the existing bolt holes so they protrude downward. I believe I used M8x1.25x45 Class 10.9 bolts. When you are done make sure that the flats of the bolt head run front to rear, and that they are parallel to the slide rails. If you dont then the extra width of the bolt head will come in contact with the inner seat rail and you won't be able to slide the seats. Tighten them down real good and you will not have a problem with them coming loose either. Basically you will be using these as studs, only you don't have to play around with locktight. Preparing the car to accept the seats: 3. For the mounting holes on the car use the original hole for the rear outer. You will need to drill a new hole in the Z's rear inner seat mount for the other side. To get the right distance measure the rear seat studs width and transfer that to the seat mounts. Punch, and drill. 4. For the fronts you will need to do one out of 2 things. A) drill a new hole in the seat that lines up front to rear with the forward mount. Then drill new holes in the forward mount to match. The only drawback to this is it's hard to fish a bolt down into the new hole in the seat rail that far down. It can be done but it makes the finished product more difficult to work with. Fabricate some "L" brackets and bolt them to the existing seat mount points. I did this by bending some 1.5"X.125 thick" flat stock . I want to say it was about a 105* angle, but basically you just match the angle of the seat rails. Be sure that to put a radius on the bend to match the radius of the OE front mount. I welded a gusset in using 16ga sheet metal to add rigidity. Once the brackets are made put the seats in and take some measurements to drill the holes for the seat to bracket hole, and Bracket to car holes. You will notice that the OE ribbing on the factory seat mount gets in the way. I flattened those area out with some large hammers. When positioning the front mounts pay particular attention to the angle at which you mount them. This will affect the distance that you can adjust the seats as well as how the slide rail lock mechanism works. When it's all lined up properly you will have the full range of motion, will be able to access the backrest adjuster lever and it won't rub on the tunnel. Tighten all the bolts down and you are done. The finished product works very well. It allows a full range of motion, and feels solid. The SRT4 seats are slightly taller, but do not hit the headliner. Over all it's a great mod. I don't have pics yet, but I should have them in a few weeks. They are not the easiest seat to install, but I think the finished product is worth it. if I had this mod to do over again I would take a look at what it would take to move the seat rails closer together. When I started this project I did not have the welder, and did not consider moving the rails a viable option.

Just a note... Grade 8.8 does not exist. Grade 8 does. Class 8.8 does too, but it's not the same as Grade 8. Please don't get the terms class and grade mixed up. If you are referring to a metric fastener then it's strength is measured by the Class system. Now if you wanted to say that a Class 10.9 fastener is the same strength as a Grade 8 fastener then that's a true statement, except for the fact that the fasteners are not the same size. However... I am rambling on.. now on to the meat and potatoes of why I am posting... The hardware store variety of fasteners should not be used on any critical component, especially one that is exposed to coolant. Lower grade bolts have less corrosion resistance. When the lower grade bolts start to corrode they do so at an alarming rate as compared to a Class 10.9 or even a class 8.8. When they go chances are they will damage the block threads too, as the threads are most likely whats going to fail on them. Yes the strength is a factor, but not the biggest in my mind for the given application. Now to give you an idea of the strength differences. A Class 10.9 bolt is rated at 130,000 psi yield strength. No markings (as in a valid class) have a rating of about 57,000. That's less than half. To give you an better idea, Aluminum alloy bolts (used in aviation) have a rating of 62,000. Or think of it another way: Put in some timeserts and get 6mm class 10.9 bolts instead. it would be about the same strength. Do not underestimate the importance of base materials. Strength ratings do not tell you the whole story either. For example the weaker materials may stretch much more before reaching their proof load, or yield ratings. In other words it may be a "springy" material which is the worst thing for a head bolt. If your trying to save a buck I would just get some used stockers. I know you could pick those up on the cheap. It's nice to save a buck, but honestly I would save it by going used oem rather than a hardware store time bomb. At the very least find out from ACE what these things are so at least you know the risk. If you have to use them be sure and run distilled water and 70% coolant to prevent the corrosion of the bolts. Hope that helps, and happy wrenching.

My conversion to the 5 speed was purely bolt in. I used the original mounts from the 240z. The way I recall this is I used the clutch and trans stuff from the doner car. I used the shifter from the 240, and it to is a drop in to the 5 speed, so no worries there. trans - from doner throwout bearing and clutch fork from doner shifter - used the 240 driveline - used the 240 transmount - used the 240 Now one note: The motor I have is a 75 280. It was changed by the previous owner. I don't know if that means I still had the 240 clutch or the 280 clutch. Come to think of it, I don't even know if they are different. Good luck!

Otto, I have a 72 240. I pulled a trans out of a 79 2+2 and it fit no problems. Just make sure you get the clutchfork and thowout assembly with the trans that you pull. I used my original driveline with no issues. Both transmissions were slip yolks. As far as transmission choice I would opt for the close ratio box which comes out of the 81 through 83 zx's. Im reading this as if you have a choice of cars you can pull this out of. Good luck.

Skater, I had to replace the tach in my 72, but you should be fine with your 78. The tach's are different. My apologies for not being clear on this. I like the ZX style because it's self contained. Performance wise I cannot compare it to the XR700 as I have no experience with them. Good luck with it.

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90002000a.pdf It was the first link google provided when searching on XR700. I would seriously look at a ZX distributor. I spent 100 bux buying a refurb unit from RockAuto and that came with a module. I have been running a ZX distributor on my 72 for 12 years now and it's been a rock solid system and revs just fine. In my opinion it's the best option for our Z's, aside from the coil on plug setups. The only downside is having to replace your tach.

I have always used gravel in gas tanks getting it out though takes a while. Gravel in a soupy mix of water and various cleaners seems to do the trick very well. The other thing that I have done in the past is to take the tank to a carwash and pressure wash it with the high pressure detergent wash. Good luck. Ohh and by the way if there is no serious rust and scale and it's just rotten gasoline then running clean gas and tolulene and Xylene through it will really break down the crud. Alcohol also binds with the water so it does not pool in the bottom of the tank. then you simply run a few tanks of gas through it, and the moisture is gone. Don't leave it in long as Alcohol eats up the fuel system rubber.

I found another post on the matter in the ignition and electrical section, so Aussies had the 260 until 1978? interesting. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122970

The distributor will fit. I have one installed in my 72 240. Actually all the distributors are compatible with each other as far as physically mounting. You may need to do some re-wiring, and perhaps a tach that is compatible with electronic ignition. I honestly don't know if a 260 has electronic or points. When I did the upgrade the original 240z tach would not work, so I got a junkyard 280z tach and it works fine. Also grab the 280z coil and bracket as they are different. but bolt right up. I had to do some wiring at the distributor, and if I recall correctly I pulled the pigtail off the 240z tach and put it on the 280z tach. Instead of the primary current flowing from the coil to the tack and back to the dist it is now a direct setup, with only one wire going to the tach sending the signal. Wow it's been a long time since I did this... but it's the way I remember it being. If I recall correctly these are the parts I needed to do this upgrade: Distributor mounting boss (aluminum piece between distributor and front cover) Coil and bracket Tachometer. I still think its the best mod I have done to the car. Hope that helps.

Make sure all connections and wiring is good. I would pull the bulb from the car and with the brites on check the voltage at each pin. If there is say 10v on one pin, and zero on the other two then you are schematically good, but have a power supply issue and are risking a fire. If you check voltage at the pins and find say 12v(full voltage at one pin, 7 volts on another and 0volts on the last then you know you have 1 of 2 issues. A. you are running the current through both filaments. The light bulb wired in this matter becomes a voltage divider. To check for this remove the 0v terminal from the circuit (unplug it by removing it from the socket) after doing this if you have no light whatsoever then you were running it through both filaments. Also if you remove the 7 volt terminal (more than zero but less than 12) and there is change then it proves again that you are running the current through both terminals. There is no risk of fire in this situation. B if when you remove the same wire as above and there is no change then you know you have a ground circuit issue. if you remove the 0 v connection it will make no difference. If you remove the partial voltage connector you will get nothing. This too is a fire risk. Check all voltages referenced to the mother of all grounds. In engrish this means connect the negative terminal of the VOM to the negative battery terminal. Do these tests in order. All of the above is assuming A side switching (switched positive not negative).

Falcon ZE 512's. Lightweight tires that do not squeal. I am running them now on my 72, but in a 205 60 14 size. They are available in the size you need. I like them a lot and they are cheap too. I have heard they don't last long, I only have about 1000 miles on these, so i cannot talk to that.

make sure the lines are clear. If the vehicle has sat for quite some time perhaps the new fuel is cleaning/ajaring a bunch of junk from the tank and clogging the lines. Make sure the tank is dry (no water), and if need be add tolulene to it to get additional cleaning of the system. You can use some type of alcohol to assist in water emulisification thus getting it out of the system.

Make sure your choke is not on. On the bottom of the carb make sure your jets are seated fully upward. When they get worn the jets tend to stick in the downward position even when you have the choke off. To do this simply put your finger on the bottom of the jet and push up. If it moves you know you have found a problem.

Would an inspector know that you changed the head? Here in the states they would even know how to figure that out unless they are an enthusiast. regardless.. 235hp is plenty to have fun with, especially if that's 235 at the wheels. It just depends on how much fun you want. ...and my opinion is that the right motor build with a good ems will be the most flexible and will meet your lofty 194 hp "goal". So why 194 hp? is it that 195, or forbid 200 is just excessive? Sure it's not 193.7? anywhoo.. option 2 looks to be the best option. If you stay all L series motor then the possibility of swapping prior to inspection is a reality, or just detune the new setup. Flexibility seems to be key in your application.

72 240z, bought it in 94 from a co-worker as a college car, has 300k on it now. I used to take it everywhere. Good thing i got the sport utility and amphibious options on it :| Camping, racing, driving through floods, been from oregon to the mexico border, and quite a few places in between. currently has 2.8L, headers, and su's soon to be back to the webers. 5 speed, zx dizzy ( the first mod done in 95) Parts I have not broken / replaced: long block, speedo, front calipers, choke cable, horns, brake booster. Thats about it though. I parked it in 2004 in favor of this: But I have recently come to my senses and sold it so I can continue improvements on the Z. It is the orange rocket.

My headlight and running lights were bypassed with two toggle switches when I purchased the car. The switches are mounted underside of the steering column trim. All the wiring for this is done at the console as well. If this setup were any more mickey mouse, it would only be found in disney land roller coasters. As mentioned above the dual relay setup is the way to go. I like the controls to be stock because its simple. But electrically the bypass switches are the same exact thing. So if you wanted a "cleaner" look and get rid of the headlight switch then go for it. The relay mod is still in order as well. The previous owner did not use switches that were heavy enough, and the switches kept burning out. I have since wired in a headlight relay to pull the load off of the switch. I wired this up about 10 years ago. I have not addressed the running lights in any of this either. I want to rewire the car, and the painless harness appears to be the way to go.

I have a 94 impala ss which came factory with the iron headed lt1. You wont be restricted in power. There are many many many parts available for them. I strongly suggest going over to the impala SS forum. it's a great community over there and tons of information. There are cheaper ways to attain power than the LT4 kit as well. Are your heads early castings? If they are the 97 castings you are a bit more limited as those castings have thinner walls than the earlier aluminum castings. Anywho.... go to the ss forum and check out the performance section. With 91k posts in that section alone... well lots of excelent info, ohh just don't go into the misc section, and you will respect that forum.. haha! http://impalassforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi