rejracer

I have the JTR radiator The radiator is nice, but I don't like the splicing of the coolant lines. It's worked flawlessly for me so far, it's been in for 2 years now.

RC Helicopters are a money sink. I still have one car, an RC10 (old 4wd car) and it's fun, but can't get parts for it anymore. So when it breaks I am at the hobby store looking at whats available and what I can upgrade, what I can make fit. The shop owner looks at me sideways and wonders why I don't just buy a new car for what i spend on it. I should just tell him I drive a 240z, and it will all make perfect sense.

Challenger, When you pull wires from the cap you are testing the entire circuit. So it could be the cap, plug wires or Plugs. Doubt it would be the rotor or the coil. To test, get a test lead connected to the neg battery terminal and compare to that lead, not the plug wire. If the wires have higher resistance it will reduce the current flow and thus the weaker spark. Testing to the known good ground will eliminate that variable in the test. For grins, just pull the cap and rotor, and clean the contacts with a pocket knife. It's free, and easy to do. You also have a higher chance of getting shocked with higher resistance leads. My turbo car was poping and hesitating. Cleaning all the electrical connectors seemed to resolve the hesitation, but it would still backfire through the intake, and sometimes bad!. Cleaning the fuel system helped, quite a bit, but it was not spot on. When I replaced the injectors that was it. I then found out how bad the clutch really is. It works great for yardcar service. By the way, I bought my turbo car for 500.00. You got ripped off (i won't mention that it needed a 400 in parts to get it running good, and has a bad clutch) (nor will I put in a shameless plug that I will be parting out a turbo doner later this year)

My suggestion is to do the cheap stuff first. -compression test (your's sounds good). -Swap ignition leads to see if the problem follows the leads. -look at your spark plugs, contrast how the firing cylinders look compared to the non-firing, inspect insulators, swap plugs between cylinders to see if the problem follows the plugs. -Get the AFM contacts cleaned up, then sealed! noticed the cover was removed. -clean electrical connections. A mini screwdriver works wonders for this. Use a good preservative. I like using deoxit D5 and Deoxit G5. Make sure you get the PCM contacts. on my turbo car all the engine bay connectors were all crudded up, each one seemed to make a difference, but it was slight. The PCM connectors however made a big difference. -Check your battery leads, don't underestimate this step. Ensure the leads are free from corrosion, and the ground lead on the chassis is in good order. -Get a timing light and time it. Also check for spark consistency on the coil lead. If it skips, track it down each of the leads and see if there is a common cylinder, or if it affects all. Too much timing can cause detonation. On my 72 N/A car, not enough timing causes intake backfires. I would just get it right so you can eliminate the variables. -Clean fuel injectors. - if you go this route do not waste your time by getting injector cleaner. Go to the paint store and buy a gallon of Tolulene and / or Xylene. pour it straight into your gas tank in equal parts of gasoline, tolulene and Xylene. Tolulene is the active ingredient in fuel injector cleaner. In the concentrations mentioned, I don't reccommend leaving it in there a long time. You'll be fine over a couple of days. This made the second biggest difference on mine. I still had a pop on accel, but had great power. I diagnosed this as injector spray pattern, and ended up replacing all injectors. I put in refurbished Beck Arnley injectors from RockAuto.com rock auto discount code: 1395493818346 Valid until march 22nd 2009. The new injectors made a big difference. 4. Check your fuel pressure. Good luck with it.

Some things to think about... Decreasing the deck to piston clearance increases turbulence inside the chamber. This does a few things. 1. reduces the amount of time the mixture stays near hot components in the chamber, by swirling it around no single molecules stay near them as long when compared to a low quench chamber. 2. Turbulence increases the burn rate of the combustion process with a given fuel. This requires less timing to "prevent detonation", in reality you are only delaying peak combustion pressures in the cycle. 3. Requiring less timing reduces the amount of combustion time in the chamber. Less combustion time means less time exposed to combustion temps, which means lower chamber temps. 4. Less timing means that the crankshaft is further down in it's rotation, trigonometry tells us that there will be be a greater Y component for a given force the closer the crank gets to 90* ATDC. This means more torque. 5. Reducing the amount of timing also reduces the pressure the piston encounters on it's upward travel. 6. Faster burn rates in the chamber result in snappier throttle response. Personally I would take a different approach to the "reducing detonation" topic. Ultimately we are not after reduced detonation, we are after more torque. The best way to get more from a given intake charge is to gain more mechanical advantage. To me the question becomes how do I gain more mechanical advantage from given chamber pressure? Remember that it's pressure and temperature that cause detonation. I have come up with the following: A. Increase the fuel burn rate B. Delay the combustion event, to delaying peak cylinder pressure C. Getting a better rod ratio also helps, but that's another thread... For a good read on the matter, I suggest the following: How to Hotrod Small-Block Chevys By Bill Fisher, Bob Waar I know, it's chevys... but the chamber design is similar between the SBC's and closed chamber datsun heads. The physics is the same regardless of the engine, and the SBC heads are very similar, and more importantly, very well researched, tested, and tested and tested.... This post is not addressing the octane of fuel, boost level's, fuel mixture or the cylinder head temp issues our engines have. All of those wonderful things are relevant, just not focused on for what I am trying to convey. Brian, I think your conclusion is spot on for the quench issue. I am very surprised at the amount of timing you are able to run with that compression ratio. I am curious if timing is delayed, will power go up? If timing can be pulled, can the mixture be leaned out? All of these things affect the bottom line. So I am curious what kind of tune is on the car. Me personally I am into the whole package deal and am into fuel economy, as well as emissions. I would tend to go for the leaner mixture, and less timing. Would you be willing to disclose your approach to tuning? Thanks, Robert

How bout now? Sitting proud... The deck Chambers Ports And special thanks for detailed documentation on the cam gear. I find accurate documentation invaluable . Install may be later this summer. I will document it in my turbo swap thread in "members projects" section when progress is made. Everything looks great on the head, I can't wait to get it installed. Well too bad I don't have all the supporting goodies for it just yet, and the final build will be in about another year and a half. It will end up on a stroker with either a t3/t4 hybrid or a garret ball bearing/liquid cooled turbo. The goal on this project is a quick spooling fast revving street build. Fun to drive is the number one priority on this, not drag times, or impressive dyno figures. -Robert

Rear hub? There is no rear hub, I think they are referring to the rear strut assembly casting and strut tube. Sounds like either the bearing is toast, but more likely the axle is bent. You can break anything with a big enough press or hammer. I'd pull the wheel off and look for hammer marks on the stub axle. I'd then take it right back to them. As mr. Insane said, the longer you wait, the more likely they will not want to work with you on it. Just make sure you have not done anything really crazy that could have bent an axle.

First off check to see if the crankcase is under vacuum. Simply pull the oil cap and put your hand over it and feel for vacuum. AK-Z has a very good point. I bought this car for 500, and it ran very bad when I picked it up. It needed electrical connectors cleaned mostly. It also needed the fuel system cleaned, but don't think that's relevant here. I would clean the following electrical connectors in this order: PCM - Made a big difference for me. AFM O2 Sensors Head Temp Sender Injectors TPS - helped idle speed. I used electrical contact cleaner, Deoxit D5 followed by Deoxit G5. The first 4 connection points can affect AFR. After all of that I would check to see if the head temp sender is working properly by testing it per the FSM. Based on the limited info available, it appears that the car is running rich, or there is limited / no flow from crankcase to the manifold. Good luck with it.

The brazing sounds like the best idea. You could get away with epoxy as well. If it's dented and not gouged then I would get some steel blocks on both sides of the damaged area and strike the upper block with a hammer to flatten it out.

I am using the maxima bracket, I think it came off an 82, and calipers and rotors from an 82 280zx, so I am sure those will sell.

I have an 83 turbo, and when I pull the oil cap or dipstick the idle gets worse. If yours gets better to me it suggests you are running rich at idle, and the unmetered air that is being introduced to the intake charge is leaning it out some bringing it closer to where it should be. I would check the sensors, especially the head temp sensor, injector size, fuel pressure and the adjustments on the air flow meter. Basically anything that can cause it to run fast at idle. I suppose before all that I would check to see if it's running rich at idle to validate if your on the right track.

I see what you are saying, and would agree it looks very rigid. What I am trying to say is that with the single connection point to the lower mount it is far more likely to break the bolt than if it were supported at 2 points. Granted Class 10.9 is the way to go, but time will take it's toll. I would be worried that the constant flexing of the bolt from the acceleration/deceleration of the engine, vibration and jolts from rough roads will lead to breakage, even on a class 10.9 bolt. Question is how long will it last i like how easy the mod is though. I don't know what I will end up with as far as mounting is concerned, but I will probably try and fabricate a mount using plate steel. I think this is the best approach for long term reliability. If it works out I might model it up and have a machine shop make me one of nicer construction that I would be able to do in my garage. Thanks for the info.

My Z specialties Alternator just failed, and now I am looking at options. This is a great writeup, so thanks to all who have done their homework. Jeffp's post made me investigate the AD244, and I could not find a good answer as to the Pro's or Con's of the AD244 versus the CS144. I called up Alternatorpart.com and spoke with Randy. I asked him what alternator would provide the best amperage at idle and he said it's a wash between the CS144 and the AD244 in stock form. The two alternators use the same regulator, rectifier (see note) and stator. The difference between the two is the AD244 has a different rotor that is the same electrically, but has a different shape to it for the new case design. From the factory they have different recitifiers, which is a change in manufacturing technique, but the components (diodes) themselves are the same. The rebuilt units they sell use the same upgraded rectifier. What he said makes the biggest difference is the 200 amp stator. They use the same stator when upgrading a CS144 and AD244. Although I certainly don't need 200 amps of power I am going to go for one of their 200 amp units to get the idle speed amperage increase to the best that it can be. He also indicated the difference between the 140, 170 and 200 amp versions are the following: 140 amp - factory configuration. 170 amp - upgraded rectifier bridge. 180 amp - upgraded rectifier and stator. In other words the 170 amp version is going to be the most reliable as it's only upgrade improves reliability, and the 200 amp is going to provide the best idle voltage/amperage. I am going down this path because it gives the best of both worlds. It's an upgraded unit, so the electrical performance is there, plus if it fails I can still go down to autozone and pick up something that will work until I can get the uber alternator fixed again. It also does not hurt that this is the same alternator used in my impala. One advantage is the CS144 has more case mounting styles, and is therefore a bit more flexible. I like the look of the AD244 case, and it probably cools better. The CS144 case protects the internals a bit better imo, and since I will nowhere use the capacity of this alternator the increased cooling (if any) of the AD244 is moot. Overall the CS144 seems to be a bit more rugged. If anyone has more experience with these, please chime in. For others that are on the fence concerning this upgrade... I learned to rebuild these things in college, so I am comfortable taking them apart. I may need to modify the case a bit, and if it were to fail, I would go to autozone and buy an alternator. I would then take the old unit and test it and just buy the needed parts from alternatorparts.com and rebuild, and swap it out. If you considering the swap and don't want to deal with that complexity the autozone solution may be the best route to go the first time. However if you do go the autozone route, I would be concerned about modifying the case, you cannot (well should not) return an alternator that has the case modified as a core because this is usless to the rebuilder. I will look at a custom mount for the new alt, I don't like the existing solutions requiring modifying a factory mount, it looks somewhat flimsy and does not appear to support the alternator as well as I would like. KTM, do you have installed pics? This might put my mounting concerns to rest. Good writeup btw..

I bought a very rough running zxt parts car for 500.00 in CA. It was missing a upper radiator hose, had overheating problems, and needed the fuel system cleaned out. On the trans side the Clutch was weak (but working) and first gear synchro is a bit weak on the downshifts. I ended up replacing the injectors, and doing the basics. Overall I think I have 900 into it. After I do the clutch and flywheel, and possibly fix first gear synchro, I believe I will be just under the 2k mark for the parts I want. I am also pulling the rear, and halfshafts. The rest will be part out. if you are doing a conversion, I would go for the parts car. if you are keeping your induction/exhaust I would just buy an engine. If the doner vehicle is in driving condition, as in you can swap it in and run it with no replacement parts, I feel 750.00 is worth it for a engine/trans combo. In your case it sounds worn out. I would look elsewhere, I think you can get a better engine/trans for about the same amount.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140809 Since I posted the above in the aforementioned thread the 94 impala has cracked another manifold. It's a great car when it runs.... I live 2 miles from work, and I believe the short trips are part of the problem. Concerning 118k miles on the engine.. It's just getting broken in! I pulled the heads on the impala at 205k and there was still cross hatch and no ring ridge on any of the bores. Just in case you are wondering, I ran it without coolant due to a failed water pump and cracked the heads. It failed due to neglect on my behalf. I have not heard of LT1's having lower end problems when properly built. I have 225k on it now and it still maintains 40-55 psi at idle depending on temp using 0w30 castrol syntec. Anyone who know's me, can attest to the fact that I am not the easiest on wheeled mechanical equipment. The above almost sounds like a plug for the LT1, but it's not, just trying to share my experience here. Now if I had a choice, I would hold out for an LSx car. The best advice I can give you is to spend a few days in the impala ss forum. It's a more mature crowd over there compared to the fbody crew. I think they will be a bit more objective if your looking for advice. I suggest taking a look in the performance and engine problems sections. In the performance section you will find that fellas are blowing holes in pistons on 11 and 12 second runs in a 4k pound car. hrmmmm dunno why that would happen!! in the maint section you will find problems with oil leaks, "how do I replace spark plug wires" and very basic stuff. You usually don't find off the wall engine failures except on high mileage engines, and that being 250k plus. There are of course exceptions.

I have a 94 impala SS which came from the factory with an LT1. They are potent motors and mods are available. However GM only produced these motors for 7 years. They have some weak spots, such as water pumps are prone to failure, the Optispark does not like to rev much past 6k or the rotor tends to fail. The factory PCM cannot rev past 7200. The factory iron manifolds crack (I assume you would be going with headers). If you get a LT1 make sure the optispark is vented, and that the car comes out of a Vette Y-body or camaro or F-Body to get the aluminium heads. Try to avoid the 97 aluminum castings. Although they do flow better than the original castings they are thin and lack enough material in them to be ported. My suggestion based on the aftermarket support of the LT1 versus LS1, LS1 is the clear winner. Aluminum blocks, heads, your choice of stroke from factory cranks, better rods, better heads, coil on plug ignition, composite intakes. It's just a better upgrade path in my opinion. The initial investment may be slightly higher, but the long term cost I believe would be lower as there is much larger supply of used parts on the market. Hope that helps

I concur with Ed. At the very least, make sure you check the wiring to the OEM fuse and ensure its of sufficient gauge for both circuits you are running off it if. My recollection is that our fuse boxes are maxed out from the factory as it.

Ed, I purchased Hella electrial parts from the same company as Derek. I bought the fuse block and relay blocks. I thought the service was excellent when I called them. Relay block: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=772 I bought it because it's possible to snap the relay and fuseblocks together. Fuse block: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=771 As it's configured I now have 8 standard relay slots (3 are used for just the headlights) and 16 Fuse positions. I know I will not use that many fuse positions, but the 8 position in this form factor was very close in price, and I was after the ability to snap them together. I am not terribly pleased with the relay block as the clips that hold in the female terminals do not seem all that secure. I chose them because the relay block and the fuse block will snap together, so I can expand it as needs grow. I buy my weather pack connectors from Innovative wiring: http://www.innovativewiring.com/PartsPage2/ElectricalConnectorPage.htm Here are some pictures of the Fuse/relay block installed in the engine bay. I may change the location, but still not sure on that. If I were to do it again I would probably mount the block in the interior of the vehicle. I would also not have fabricated the base plate from aluminum, rather I would have bought a cutting board from walmart and use that as plastic stock. I think that is a good idea anyway, but I would most likely test it to see how well it stands up to heat and how it burns. -Robert

The above quote is from the first post. I can't get any more exact than that, other than they had a zinc finish to them. My suggestion is don't waste your time. You are working on a Z car right?

Last November I bought a 280zxt donor car for 500.00. The car ran, but barely, and I do mean barely. When I got to it, it had a blown out tire, no upper radiator hose, missing power steering pump, no battery, clogged radiator, dead alternator and in a general state of utter neglect. ..but the price was good in my opinion. So for the next 8 months it's status of "yard car" had yet remained unchanged, albeit in a new location. A couple of weeks ago I started working on it again, and this was trigger by me taking the time to power wash the car and engine bay. Now that the engine was somewhat clean, I started poking around to see what I could find. The most obvious things I found were the vacuum leaks. Starting off with all the lines on the upper manifold were loose, well the clamps were not loose, it's just the rubber had been indented so bad by the wire clamps that they all needed a good tightening. The large hose on the valve cover was so bad I needed to put a band clamp on it as it would not go down far enough to get a good seal. Next up was the charcoal canister. The hoses were reversed on it so that the vacuum was on the canister port and thus it was just a giant leak. most of the rubber hoses were falling apart in some places, when I would try to pull them off they would break in half. Hoses that "looked" ok were far from it. The J Pipe was loose too. Now the electrical connectors were heavily corroded. some of them were green like what happens to neglected battery terminals. On the throttle position switch I opted for battery terminal cleaner rather than deox-it. After the big stuff was gone I then used a mini scraper to clean the crud off. After they were shiny I took it apart and found the contacts themselves were ok, so I re-assembled the unit and tie wrapped it together. I put it on the car but at the time did not know how to adjust it as I was trying to get my hands on a service manual. I then did the same treatment on all the injectors, head temp sensor, what I thought was the thermotime switch (dont think turbo's have them, but not sure), air flow meter, and air regulator. After each step it seemed to make a difference. The real change is when I did the 2 step deox-it process on the ECU plugs and pins. It was now running fairly good considering where it had come from, but still far from right. Now the fuel was clearly rotten, it smelled fairly nasty, so we drained the tank. I wanted to clean the injectors so i mixed up a batch of gasoline, tolulene and xylene in equal parts. That made quite a bit of a difference. The next step was adjusting the throttle switch, which was fairly easy with the service manual. The only problem I am now left with is it still back fires when it's cold. I have to still do the following: Cap and rotor Plugs wires injector seals injector holder things (one is broken) new coil/transistor Set the timing!! (easy cant believe i have not done this yet). I did take it on the road and when it's warm it does not backfire, nor does it hesitate at all. I am surprised at how good it runs, it pulls hard to 6k and as a matter of fact it slips the clutch in 2nd and 3rd if I don;t let off. It pulls really hard. Aside from the tune up parts i just ordered, I have 505.03 (had to buy battery cable ends) invested in this thing. After the parts it's about 750.00. I think i got a good deal overall. So after the parts are installed and remaining diagnostics I will be doing I expect it will be running like a top. One part I am trying to find is a set of magnecor wires long enough to route in front of the engine. I called magenecor and asked for a spool of their kv85 wire and the correct ends and they did not suggest it, but said they would do it. So now I just need to get some rough measurements and order that spool and ends to get it dialed in. Are there any real concerns about making your own spark plug leads? I say real as in can your average non-gorilla make them with the right tools? I have done my own in the past, but never dealt with the pure silicone type construction that magnecor uses. If you know of a good kit for routing the wires please clue me in. It appears folks are just buying the separators and routing these things themselves. ...and now for some pics. Here is a general shot of the engine bay What is this thing, EFI relay bypass? Other side of the engine bay: That's all I have for now. Progress will be slow, but I will try and keep this post updated.

I had this setup on the car when I bought it. I replaced it as it looked too necked down for my setup back then. Now if you just want that basic style of tip you can have them made up in stainless and just don't put the resonator baffling in them to increase the ID of the tips. Of course you would be using a larger than 2" inlet as well. I do agree they look great.

1. Seat width is 19" at the rear of the seat. 14" on the Rails center to center. 2. The seats are from a Neon SRT-4. 3. Very subjective... to me, yes they are. but not the best i've ridden in. Take into account i am 5'7". No adjustable lumbar support. (cmon theyre out of a dodge neon!) Read my posts above, there is a bit more info in them than I quoted. The car has been on the back burner for a couple of months. Only earlier this week did I wash it up and start driving it again. I'll get those pics of the brackets, as I still need to get them painted up.

I will get some finished installation pictures in a few days. For the time being, here is some how to info. Grinding the brackets off the rails: When done it should look like this: Then put the bolts through the existing threaded holes like such: then tighten the bolts down so they are really tight, and two of the head flats are parallel with the rail. This works with 13mm head bolts. It might not work with 14mm head bolts, and 12's you might not even need to worry about the whole parallel bit. If it slides freely you know its good. This is the correct way to have them installed: This is the incorrect way to have the bolt installed. tighten it down a half flat further! Just the little bit of width from the crowns versus the flats makes this work or not work. An alternate method would be to use studs and either epoxy, loctight, or tack weld them in so they don't turn on you while tightening the nuts down on final installation. Here are hi res (haha camera phone) links: http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/IMG00251.jpg http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/IMG00252.jpg http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/IMG00295.jpg http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/IMG00297.jpg http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/IMG00296.jpg here are the final install pictures. The hi resolution links for each photo is below the particular image. Notice the height. http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/Driversideinstalledheight.jpg All the way forward, and it's very tight squeeze. This seat install is S.A.C. (short asian compliant). http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/Driverssideinstalled2.jpg Are those holes I see in the floor board? Notice the lower rear of the seat, it rests against the seatbelt mech, in other words full motion. Good enough for someone about 6'2 in my estimates. I am 5'7, my dad 5'10, and he could not reach the pedals this far back. http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/Driverssideinstalled.jpg On the inside you have 1 inch clearance to the tunnel. Nice and snug fit and aligns the driver up with the steering wheel. instead of rubbing your shoulder on the door, you will rub shoulders with the passenger! http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/IMG00317.jpg To the cat that left the nice mark on the seat: Your fate awaits you. For the rest of you... notice the easy access to the backrest lever, it's about 2 inches clearance. Your fate awaits you too, but I'm sure it much better than the cat's. http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/Driverssideinstalled.jpg Passenger side. This is all the way back for the backrest in that angle. If you push the backrest forward the rear of the bottom portion of the seat will hit evenly on the inner and outer seatbelt mount points. Take your time aligning them to get it right, it will pay off. http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/Passenger1.jpg The only downside to this side to side alignment is that the new hole that you drill on the inner mount point. The position is not totally flat. Liberal application of force on tightening the nuts up seems to resolve this. I may get creative with the new welder and some flat stock to rectify the situation. A better shot of the passenger side head rest clearance. It's pretty good, about 2 to 4 inches. http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/rejracer/240z%20-%20srt4%20seats/Passengerheight.jpg Thats it for the fitting of the seats. I still need to remove them and get the brackets painted and pictures of the brackets themselves. I need to get the seats cleaned as well.

I have 2 1983 parts cars, one N/A, one Turbo waiting to be parted. In the summer they make great solar ovens to bake freshly painted parts. I wont bother listing each individual item on the car. On top of the 2 complete cars... 1. R180 with mustache bar for 240z. 2. Triple DCOE's 3. P79 head 4. MN47 head 5. V07 crank 6. 72 distributor 8. 82 na distributor 9 misc front end parts. 10. 72 cast iron manifold, and exhaust tip 11. 72 alternator 12. misc trans and wheel bearings. 13. complete guage set. 14. ...and every other part i have ever removed from my 72. 15. 1 set of 5 snowflake wheels 17. 280z vented hood. 18. 280z sway bars. 19. 280z filler neck. 20. headlight buckets 21. every shifter that ever came in a z/810. (btw... looking for a truck shifter). 22. momo shift knob. 23. 280z radiator shroud. 24. Front cover assy, plus dist rod. 25. 280zxt oil pump. 26. 9mm 240 rods. 27. 240z stub axles. 28. and 2 storage crates of misc "stuff"

I replaced mine 11 years ago and I recall paying about 120.00 in 1997 dollars. They are expensive to say the least. I wanted to be sure it was not going to happen again, so I filled the cable with grease/oil to ensure it would not rust again.