Justinp551

I have done some searching and have a few good ideas but wanted to get some more direct suggestions. I have a 75 280 and just swapped in a 76 engine I rebuilt. Both engines have been running great. The 75 distributor stayed with the car but the intake manifold and afm stayed with the engines. The only item I changed on the 76 engine was swapping a 17lb flywheel with a 11lb flywheel. The Engine will not crank over with the key. It acts like the batter is almost dead. If I use a screwdriver to connect the pos and starter relay tab it will crank over ok. I do need to charge up the battery but it still does the same with a jumper vehicle running. After about 10 min of attempts to start it will finally catch and barely idle. The more it idled the better it got. Prob purging the air out of the lines. It still has a really rough idle and will pop and back fire a bit at low rpms playing with the throttle. The idle is really rough actually real lopey like it has a big cam. It doesn't appear to be running rich from a bad sensor though. I know the lighter flywheel doesn't have that much intertia but would it cause it to idle that rough? I have checked timing and did a quick check for air leaks(will do a more thorough one shortly). I have done a quick check of connectors and they all appear to be fine. It runs fine at higher rpm and drives around fine but just has the idle issue. Also it seams the idle screw has no where near the sensitivity it did before the swap. I cannot get anything over 750 rpm with the idle screw and turning it down will get it to about 400rpm. I briefly played with the temp sensors to make sure I got the right ones on but will double check. I actually swapped the connectors and to no gain. After letting it sit over night it still doesn't want to start up again. Barely catches on one cylinder then will run for a few second then die. Looks like the cold start/high idle circuit is not putting any effort in to help either. So here is what I have done Put a great running 76fi engine in a great running 75fi car Took 17lb flywheel off 76 engine and installed 11lb/ centerforce clutch. Took 75 3 wire dist that was in car and was installed on the new 76 engine. Removed and reinstalled intake/headers for easier removale/install of engine(yes used a new gasket too) Painted engine bay What its doing Barely starting and then dieing, takes a bunch of attempts then seems to finally start Really rough idle, like a real big race cam(sounds cool though) Idle control screw has very limited influence Slight hesitation and little pops/backfiring just off idle. What I have investigated I have checked to make sure I have reattatched all connectors I have checked and retime it. Only seems happy above 13ish degrees. Did a quick prelim check for air leaks. Still need to do the carb cleaner spray test What I still need to do Do a better check for air leaks Check all the grounds after painting engine compartment. Double check cam timing(never was touched but doesn't hurt to check) So I appreciate any suggestions from those who have scratched their heads and spoke lots of french to their engines before me. Thanks

Nice job on putting it all together. Did some research on the pre 94 aluminum calipers. There is talk of flex and spongy feeling. Any feedback from anyone with experience with this. Thinking bigger rotors on a lighter car might not induce some of the problems mentioned. The al calipers are 4lbs lighter each. This could put gsxtcy's bigger kit a pound lighter each side than the toy 4x4 set up.

I am reading alot of posts about using 280zx dizzy in place of 280z dizzy mainly to get a full 12v in the ignition system and remove the ballast resistor. Other than maybe a different ign timing curve, what is the bennifets? I know the dizzy reads up crank position and I am guessing the ignition control in the car tells the coil when to fire which coincides with the rotor lined up with cap? Opeartion is pickup sends signal to ign control then to coil through dist to spark plug? What is physically different between the z and zx dizzy other than that little module? Could a e12-80 module be wired to a 280z dist? After researching a bit on Hei modules, can one of those be wired to a 280z dist and remove the original ign control and ballast resistor out of the loop. Or is it better just to get a zx dizzy and go?î–

Newzed, I like your idea. Not to familiar with the hei unit. What's involved? Looking to clean up the engine bay a bit more and get that little bit more performance.

What I am learning from reading all these and other posts is that the main benefit of the zx dizzy upgrade in a 280 is the ability to run full 12v all the time. Is the performance worth the money in a 280?

Ok so just to clear up your project... You are fabbing brackets to make z32 calipers work with drilled(4 lug) big 350 track rotors in the stock s30 configuration as a alternative to the Toyota setup? Cool! Please keep posted as interest is peaked!

Ok I have read through this thread to be clear of what the goal is but I seem lost. I understand it's to use z32 calipers. One post is talking about using the track rotors(bigger brakes!!!î—î—î—) and another wants it for the 5 lug. I have the Toyota set up and four lug. Will be sticking to four lug too. Will these brackets make a z32 caliper work with the track rotor(drilled for 4 lug) in the traditional manner as the stock/Toyota set ups? Or is this for 5 lug and rotor on outside of hub? Is there a weight savings from the Toyota setup to this? I would be interested in a set of brackets if it all bolts together roughly the same.

I started to put new u joints in my driveshaft the other day and even though there was a bunch of hammer swinging, I never even got one out. So was thinking of letting someone with the correct tools rebuild and balance. In Palo Alto/Mountain View and looking for a reputable driveshaft shop. Thanks

Whats the common practice on installing a new flywheel and clutch regarding locktite? I have heard to just torque appropriately and then I have also read to torque and locktite the flywheel bolts. Also what is the common practice for the 9 pressure plate bolts?

I was looking on the Nissan site the other day and could not find them like in the link. Are those headers still available for purchase?

I don't know if a residual cable is lurking in there somewhere but I switched to rear disks with a new zx MC and the brakes kept getting tighter each stop. After above said frustrations I happen to find that both outputs of the mc had the residual valves for drum brakes installed. They shouldn't have been there but somehow managed to slip in on assembly/rebuild before I bought it. Just something to check with your set up

I don't know if a residual cable is lurking in there somewhere but I switched to rear disks with a new zx MC and the brakes kept getting tighter each stop. After above said frustrations I happen to find that both outputs of the mc had the residual valves for drum brakes installed. They shouldn't have been there but somehow managed to slip in on assembly/rebuild before I bought it. Just something to check with your set up

Thanks Leon. That was the info I was looking for. Thanks for the additional theory info as well.

Oh boy in over me head now. Haha. Just looking to make the exhaust as efficient as practical without using a race team budget. Fresh N42 combo with CAI and small increase in cam. Cleaned up and refreshed n42 head w/ MSA 6-1 headers. Stock FI. I understand the theory of the megaphone and am all for fabbing it. 2.5 to 3" megaphone- With that small of a step... What general length should I be considering. Leon I understand the different requirements on desired performance. Just looking for that "general" recommendation if one exists. î—

I haven't driven on them enough or had enough tire experience to properly critique them. Right now they are round and let the z go. î–

Joe. Thanks. The wheels are not bad on price either. 425 or so shipped in Cali. I got them from somewhere on eBay. NLmotoring offers them for a bit more but they offer matte bronze and silver. I haven't played with a ZX so not familiar with the required offset. The center caps are not deep so they don't cover the front hub though. Not a problem with a black hub and rims. Tires are 245-50-16 and are from les schab. They are like a generic falken i think. Zeik 427 IIRC. Les schab is a west coast tire chain.

Thanks for the input guys. John C's pic of the megaphone stated 13". And suggestions on a more desired length?

And best place to find a 13" 2.5" to 3" megaphone?

Interesting solution. I like it. When I get the car together and running smoothly I will build a 2.5" to 3" exhaust and post dyne results back to back. Thanks for the idea Leon. I have come across the megaphone idea on a few different threads. Will research it a bit further.

This thread is great reading. I have the MA 6-1 with a 2.5" system on my 280na. After reading this thread I am considering having a 3" made up and dyno both pipes to see what differences we can find. If I am understanding this correctly though the main loss is friction of the walls. Is my example of a whole bunch of people running through a narrow hall vs running though a room sound about right? My only concern is the 2.5" flange from the headers to the exhaust pipe. 3" collector through a 2.5" flange back to a 3" system all the way back. Is this small kink a huge problem? I understand it is a restriction but it's only 1/2 inch or so. Would this kink be a small issue, good for exhaust wave reflection, or a big issue?

I am wanting to swap the amp meter out for a volt meter. I have looked over the wiring diagrams and Atlantic z cars site and have used the search function but not finding my answers. So here they are First. Removing the shunt. Am I correct to assume the two large wires get spliced together and tucked away? Remove the shunt from the engine bay. Second. The two small wires for amp gauge will now be reused to be the charge light wire and volt wire. I got that far. Am I correct up to this point? Now I know the L wire on the alt is the voltage feed to excite the field then once excited it only becomes live if the alt stops chaging hence the warning light. My question is what wires connected/ connectors jump is need to go from the L connector through the harness through the small old amp wire to the charge light? Next is the second amp wire. Where it would hook to the shunt, where would it go instead to give voltage appropriately. I know I could go straight to the battery + but I want to do it by properly integrating it into the harness. And to finish it off I do know I need to attach a new wire from the negative voltmeter term to a ground. I have studied the wiring diagrams but get lost before finding my answers. I am sure a few have figured it out. Thanks for the help

Madkaw, do the pics come out at all? I am not a computer guy- too many moving parts. I stick to flying airplanes for a living. Haha. I'll see if I can post them smaller. Anyway I have come across a few pics of your car here and there and it is top notch. A++!! Looks great

So I finally got my XXR's mounted. Thanks for the input from the other members they look great. Haven't had it out on the road yet but here is a few pics. Stats 75 280 2+2 16 X 8.25 0 Offset 245/50/16 Eibach pro series springs Tokigo Blues Front bumpstops Rear shock tower mounts relocated 5/8" out each(gets rid of the sagging camber ricer look) I posted a writeup about the camber adjustments in the suspension forum.

I got a rebuilt master cylinder a while back and the residual pressure check valves(for drum brakes)were installed in both outputs. Pull the adapter fittings out and remove the little rubber valve/plug and springs if there is some in there. Just something to check.