Zsane

Jon, That sound like the most probable problem, I'll check it out!

I just noticed gear lube leaking from my speedo cable, where it connects to the speedo, what's up? I haven't changed anything, what would cause the lube to climb the cable?

What's up with the Head?

http://www.elgincams.com

Just a note on some other differences from the 350: The rod bolts run very close to the cam lobes, they like roller cams and lifters that can deal with the smaller base circle needed with radical cam profiles, not a problem, just something to be aware of. The deck has two steam holes between each cylinder that pass through the head gasket and into matching holes in the head deck, when swapping heads these should be drilled into the head deck if they are not present, and the cylinders are siamesed, so the coolant cavity is split in two in each bank.

Wow, that was an easy fix, I wish this swap was that easy. Sorry, too much work, not enough sleep.

<img src="http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=2938">

At this point I was planning to mount it on the passangers side, keep the factory ford intake pipe, that would get the TB facing forward for cool air piping and keeps the bypass valve intact. From there the air would run out of the SC and through the radiator support to the intercooler, through the IC to the drivers side, back through the radiator support and to the intake manifold, a union just before the intake will be needed running in at a 45 or so to pipe into the bypass. as far as the TB linkage goes I was thinking of experimenting with a motorcycle throttle cable from the stock linkage pivot, along the firewall behind the engine and to the TB. I don't think I'll be moving foward fast enought for a showing at the norcal hybird z day, but I'll try. I could pull it off for sure if I wanted to risk living in my car! Gotta keep things smooth at home, a balance of priorities you know, I'm sure some of you can relate, or have to.

Ok, here's what I got so far, just the beginning, so bear with me!

I bought it at Tap Plastics, it's Urethane RTV mold maker, and cost under $30 for two quarts, it's a 1:1 mix and pour, and you need a mold release to keep it from sticking, and patiance to let it set up. These were the first I ever tried, so it's not hard to do. http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=63&

http://www.elgincams.com/

Strange, they were working when I posted this morning, and they weren't a minute ago, but now they're up! Anyway, notice the smooth finish on the modified mold, that port was cleaned up with 80 grit, I didn't remove much except at the entrance, the largest cross section in the stock port is just before the valve to about an inch after the port entrance, you have to view the port from above as well as the side to get an actual idea of port size. The next mold will be of a port that has been opened up to have a slight taper from the entrance to the seat. A word about valve size and the E31, even with the chamber unshrouded to the max for a std. bore L28 with the small 42mm intakes installed, there is only .136 between the valve and chamber wall, and under .100 with the 44mm valves. If you start pumping air through the port this is a large restriction, so even if you lift the valve .500 off the seat, there is still under .100 between the valve head and chamber for about 60deg of the valve head diameter with the 44mm. This is an area where the largest bore possible would allow an improvement and ability to breath by unshrouding this area as much as possible without undercutting the gasket. These are experiments and could result in terrible performance. The plan is to try a differant mod on each of the six intake and exhaust ports and then have them tested on a bench and compare the results. New seats will be installed and variations in seat cuts will also be tried, both small and large valves, there are so many port seat combo's to be tested that this will take quite a bit of time to get optimum results, to be thorough all the differant head castings will need to be tested. Port molds of the differant stock castings will come before any testing. Working 6 days a week doesn't give me much time for fiddling, but I'm trying.

Here are a few pictures of some E31 intake port and chamber molds I did. One is of an unmodified port and the other has been opened up a bit at the entrance and cleaned up, the chamber was unshrouded and cleaned up as well. I'm working on others and will post soon.

Ok, I just picked up an Eaton M90 with the intake pipe and bypass and intercooler off a T-Birt SC this weekend ($60.00) also found a non EGR FI intake on a 280ZX and just placed an order for the Megasquirt parts. I don't know how long to get this all together, but I'm moving forward with the experiment. I calculated 11lbs. boost with a 3.80 inch drive pully on the crank, that's turning the blower at a mear 6965rpm with the engine at 5500 rpm, these can be spun up to 15,000rpm so there is plenty of room to move forward as long as I can manage intake temps, a large efficient IC will be in the works. The plan is to get it running with low boost and depending on the degree of failure or success work from there. For now it's parts gathering and mount and drive fab.

I used to run solid mounts on my big block Mopar and it was fine, until it ripped the left motor mount bracket right off the k-frame. Then I was told to run one on the drivers side and rubber on the passengers side, that still allowed for some flex with the strength of the solid, I never had mount problems again, tranny, driveshaft and diff. but not mounts. I thought the SCCA rules didn't allow solid mounts in Solo II? I guess it depend on the class, but I think this carries over into some of the upper classes? Street Prepared 14.10 I.) One bolt-on torque suppression device may be used. A torque suppression device attaches from the engine to the body, frame, or subframe in one location, and controls engine movement at that location along a single axis only. It may serve no other purpose. Examples of permitted devices: ) a chain ) a rod with spherical bearings at each end. Examples of devices not permitted: ) one or more solid motor mounts ) any link which confines movement along more than one axis ) an engine mounting plate, or one or more plates rigidly bolted between the engine and the frame. Holes may be drilled to mount a torque suppression device. The installation may not include the welding of any plate(s) to the motor mount(s) or bodywork (7/2002), nor may it include multiple non-parallel links. This does not allow motor mount changes other than those which are update/backdates of factory components

I hope this long pause in development updates doesn't mean failure!

Wouldn't the rocker contact pad profile effect lift rates?

I called Dave Rebello earlier this week asking his head gasket recommendations for the L24, and he said the factory gasket or the Victor gasket. The L24 Victor is not compatible with an L28 and the fire ring is oval when compaired with a Felpro which Dave did not recommend using, He said, "They work great on Chevy's, but not on Datsuns." the Victor is a bit larger in the engine centerline allowing the unshrouding of the valves up to the fire ring, but is right up to the bore at each cylinder centerline from left to right. Felpro has one gasket for the L24, L26 and L28 engines, actually they have one for the L28 and it is too large for the L24 and L26, they do not make an 83mm bore head gasket. Both gaskets measure out at .050 thickness uncompressed. I'm going to try the Victor on an L24 I'm dropping an E31 on this weekend. Oh yeah, and before I called Rebello, I called Dando's in Fremont and they recommended the stock factory gasket too. Here is a picture of a Felpro L24/L26/L28 gasket over the Victor L24 gasket.

Yeah, that's what I need, I just got an LSD and half shafts out of an 87' 300ZXT.

Dans right on the mark!

It would be easier to put the FI on than try and get a carb to work, I helped set up an M90 on a Harley and the guy was set on using a carb. well I ended up getting out of that project on the carb issue alone, and just like I thought, on the second run at the strip, he hit the NOS, and boom! let's just say it hasn't fired up since! The Eaton is a great idea, but FI is the way to go, and they don't create the heat that the early roots sc's do with their twisted rotors. The centrifugal units are more efficient, but only supply high boost at high speeds, the Eaton will produce more power from 1000rpm until about 5000rpm, then the centrifugal would pass it up. How much higher than 5000rpm did you plan to run? 7000? Whatever you do, don't use the carb.

I love my local WY too, I got this 87' LSD with axles today for $140.00 3:70 ratio, and they got two Q45 R230 LSD's down there too.

Initially my concern was the ball stud position coming out of the rack, and the steering arm angle, the ball stud is angled up and because of the steering arm angle as viewed from the front, the tapered stud in the tie rod is angled out, it just seems like a straight tie rod end and a steering arm end that is parallel with the wheel would keep the rack ball stud and tir rod end ball stud in the center of their range. If anything I could imagine a tie rod end that is straight with the ball end angled slightly towards the wheel and the steering arm twisted to match. All the newer cars I looked at today had straight tie rods with the ball end angled towards or parallel with the wheel. The car in the picture doesn't show much if any bump steer when on the road, even with those wasted rod ends and ball joints, soon to be replaced along with lots of other things. Has anyone measured their bumpsteer through the range of motion with and without the spacers?

I read that raising the roll center to get it closer to the center of gravity has been known to cause a jacking effect and erratic suspension movements. It also can reduce camber gain, and that most succesful racecars have the roll center height between 1" below ground level and 3" above ground.