lowdown

I've seen some people use flex lines all the way from the tank or pump in back, what about going with some solid line running from the pump to the front with a short steel braded line up front? Jegs has this kit for 50 bucks for 3/8 line, should be enough. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63063/10002/-1

I had a 280z tank to put into my 240Z but after i got it out of storage found its got a hole in it. Sooooooo should i waste my time to find another tank, or did i find a good excuse to get a fuel cell? Anyone know of flat style ones that would still fit under the car? Also while i was under it I saw how small the factory lines are under the car. I picked up a MSD fuel pump, but am thinking I should go ahead of upgrading the fuel lines. Any suggestions, sizes, etc.

Thanks i'll get some stuff ordered tonight. The stock turbo is 2.5" right?

Ok, standard 240z with 280zxt (stock) motor in it. Looking to order some 2.5" or 3" exhaust mandrel piping to make all the connections. I don't have a IC yet (just working on getting it running first, will work on that in january) but I'd like to order it all now, including the intake piping. I do lots of welding/fabing but this turbo stuff is new for me. Debating on ordering 2.5" or 3" for it all, should I just go with 3" so upgrading is easier later? Thinking of ordering a few of these http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-621008&N=700+4294923429+115&autoview=sku Also what would I need for the connections to the turbo, IC etc. Can i use the spetra ricer crap from vatozone?

Ordered the MSD one, it was the same price as the other one, and free shipping from jegs. $115.99 (i didn't see free shipping anywhere, but when i checked out, it shows as free, i didn't complain) http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD/752083/10002/-1

With me converting my 240Z to the 280ZXT engine, i somehow lost the fuel pump stuff. Sooooo i have a good excuse to go ahead and get a aftermarket one. :icon54: (I didn't look that hard, lol) Looking at jegs and summit i'm kinda lost on what I should get. Motor is mostly stock now but planning on upgrades in the future, injectors, etc, sooooo what PSI should I try and get, and are there any paticular styles, etc.. Thanks Phil

I have a suspension shop and do air suspensions, soooooo here is my input on it all.. I would not put air on a Z style suspension if you plan on driving it hard. The only company right now that makes a decnet air strut is Air Lift Technolgies. (eazy street) The reason is they still use a actual strut for support while other companies do not. So far i've had good luck with them on Hondas and other imports. They do not provide much lift, but "could" work. Air Ride Technolgies, look the best, but fail if you plan on driving them on a daily basis. I've removed them from many trucks and used them to kick around the shop. The only reason i'd ever use them is on a full show vehicle and not plan on driving much at all. (on off a trailer, perhaps 1-2 times a month, etc) The truckin web site is the worse company out there, they will lie to get your buisness and bend you over if you try and return stuff. I have delt with them (not in the last 8 years though) and have had customers try and deal with them. Now if a customer brings me their kit I charge more than if they bring me nothing. The quality sucks REALLY bad. The owner of the company is a big time doushe bag. I would beat the ♥♥♥♥ out of him if I ever meet him. They are also known as Chassis Tech, Aim Industries, and about a dozen other names. Couple of ideas.... I do someday want to build a bagged first gen Z, but i'd build a full frame, upper lower front control arms, with probally a second gen RX7 rear. Also if someone just "HAD" to have the standard strut suspension.... front i'd probally try and find room and mount air springs somewhere in front or behind the front suspension and run a bell crank to the LCA. the front unibody would have to be substantually reinforced in the general area. Rear do something similar but put the air springs inside and have them push against each others and build a mount to to the upper strut towers for reinforcement. Its 4:50am, i'm tired, hope i didn't bore anyone..... One of my favorite pics, me towing my Z with my bagged 1-ton. (which is ALLOT lower now than it was then in the pic.

I just tried to order them from Tabco and they say the price are 40 bucks each now, even though the web site says 25 bucks. Anyone know of where to still get them for 25? Thanks Phil

Will these work with the factory injectors? Seems like a better way to go than the factory ones. I think I just need 8 if I remember right, so 40 bucks and i should be set. http://www.rs-autosport.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=189

What standalone did you use? finally got some $ to spend on my car again (one good thing with divorce!) I'm ready to get this dayum thing running. Also open for any suggesions on getting it running. The thing I need to decide now is on fuel rails. I have good injectors but need/want a new rail, thinking of the palnet one, but they have the ones for the bigger injectors, wondering if I should just bite the bullet and the bigger injectors. also would it all still wire up the same? argh i have 2 many questions!

LOL so no one knows about wiring up the zxt here in austin?

Yall still around? I need to find someone who knows about wiring up a 280zxt motor in a 240z

yuppers, worked perfect.

I need some small brackets to convert my sway bar heim joints to bolt onto the control arms, like these... Anyone know where to get some?

Anyone use these on their 240Z? I was thinking of upgrading to heim joints for my steering. Thanks Phil http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3333,105_Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Studs.html

They are proud of bender! looks good though.

Awsome wagon! model 3 is great, i just wanted to do up to 2.5" and I had the hydro pump and such allready, and I don't need the extra workout. Also if only use it every once in a while the model 3 would be a better choice

Those are good, I opted to get a model 4 bender, but as far as any bender goes, dies cost a good amount of $$$$. This model 4 works great on everything i've used it with, roll cages, frame parts, crossmembers, etc.. http://www.vansantent.com/model_4_bender.htm

Thanks, i'm building a new rear end for the dually right now so I can run 22" Alcoas. Would do bigger, but the truck is allot lower now...

Here is my favorite vehicles, when I was towing it behind my crew cab dually

a little bit longer, just got to get all the little stuff found for the ZXT motor, somehow lots of parts got lost since I hadn't worked on it in a few years. Guess just the fuel system pretty much...

Well according to the Zhome site, i guess the mustache bar needs to go behind the rear control arm mounts, right? If so i'm going to just call myself dumb. LOL

If I flip the mount around, it would be even further forward than it is now, thus being about 3-4" to far forward. If I use the mount thats further back it would not reach far enough forward... I heard that binding might be a issue, are they factory one longer than the other? I do have another set of stock 1/2 shafts sitting in my shop.. I was unaware there are different lengths.

I'll probally just keep it anyways. Something different i guess. I'll give it a bath when she is running again, need to finish the turbo motor swap and some other misc other things, but for having her for almost 10 years, she is finally getting the attention she needs. As far as the ink work, thanks. its my first one i've ever gotten and it had to be Z related! haha next one is going to say datsun over it somehow, just havn't figured out how I want it to be.

When I bought this Z, i assumed it was factory paint. I have found out that it had been repainted at some time during her life. Anyone know if this is a factory paint scheme?