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Posts posted by Daeron
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Judging from what jmortensen said, and my own impressions, I would want to see the difference for myself.. I suspect that the racer brown cam would be the more desirable of the two.
Did you read any of the articles that TonyD was so ecstatic to be linked to? Something tells me that if Racer Brown wanted a "snappier" duration profile, he wanted it for a reason, and a "street/slalom" designation would indicate a responsive camshaft. It might not be a max power cam, but max power would be more lift than your schneider anyhow.
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I just found this in another thread
i too am haning problems with my n42, its on a non turbo and i just put it on and i had a vac leak but fixed it. i dont have an aac valve b/c i put a 240sx tb on it with the trigger style tps. it has a rough idle, no power and when wide open it stalls out. any suggestions?i have seen people using 240sx tb's with the datsun style shaft and sensor box. my tb has a trigger shaped arm to move the sensor. the sensor is circular instead of box shaped. it is the stock ecuTake the 240SX, Potentiometer-style throttle position sensor off of your car.
Put the L28E Throttle Position Switch back onto your car.
Your ECU does not know how to handle a throttle position sensor, all it knows is three different states. Idle, Cruise, and WOT. One switch gets closed for idle, one for WOT, and with neither switch closed the computer reads cruise.
I don't know WHAT happens when you plug a pot-style TPS in inplace of a switch, but I know it doesn't work.
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Wow, I wasn't expecting to see Palm Beach county on the tag...
Nice ZX! I like the smoked tail light look, but one question.. have you considered photoshopping a picture to paint the area between the tail lights body color? That might bring the effect of the smoked tail lights out a bit more, but it might not. Also, have you considered getting one of the finishing pieces that mount in place of the license plate? Especially if you go with a "280ZX turbo" one, smoked.. the effect might be DEVASTATING...
I don't head down to Boca much, but hopefully one of these days I will see you on the road!!
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You REALLY need to read the stickies and the posts that have been linked to already, but an intercooler and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (along with what you have already gotten) are both VERY IMPORTANT when upping boost on otherwise stock turbo cars. After that, you need a bigger turbo, larger injectors, AND standalone fuel management.
The good news is that, if you do it right, at that point you are up to around 350-400 horsepower.
That is the short, short, SHORT version. Read the stickies, take time, and learn.
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I am probably restating the obvious but going to the parts yard should be like a weekly excursion to Mecca...
Any chance of some pictures of that work mentioned in the front end?
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Well, gee, I could have SWORN I had checked AUTOZONE at least!!!
Thanks for the clue-bat everyone.. now I just need to determine whether I CAN, decide whether I WANT to spend $70 on a pair of beck/arnley rebuild kits... I can't see spending $45 apiece on El Cheapo wheel cylinders, and only one side beck/arnley is still available at $77!!!
My apologies, but in my defense I had ALL the pieces to install 280ZX rear disc brakes on my car (even very low mileage rotos, rebuilt calipers and PADS I would have re used!!) with the old RWD maxima brackets that I spent 2 years hunting (and about four hours removing) all sitting in a bucket..... that disappeared mysteriously, :icon50:so I am somewhat vexed on the subject of rear brakes. I DON'T have the money to go installing discs on at the moment, so I am making sure I know everything I can about all possible solutions before I make a decision.
I think it was Adam Carolla who I first heard say that, the worst thing about being poor is, you have a *little* bit of money, and you have to CHOOSE what you spend it on. sometimes this bill, sometimes that bill.. sometimes rear disc brakes...
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Do you mean as a pre-filter for the efi pump? I think if you're getting your feed for the high pressure pump from the bottom of the filter housing, the fuel isn't filtered yet.
Ummm.. yah.. I was paying attention. Honest.
I don't recall where, but I have definitely read of people having issues with the return fuel heating up the surge tank. I don't see why you couldn't run the return line direct to the tank, and have the overflow line from the surge tank tee into that. If you match the flow rate from the low pressure pump to that of the high pressure pump, then I don't think you should have to worry about the surge tank running dry.Nigel
'73 240ZT
Okay, thanks for clearing that up. That is what I had figured, but as we saw above, sometimes I miss little points when I am pondering at the keyboard.. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious.
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Wouldn't one be mounting this setup transversely anyway for space reasons. In which case, does it matter if it is V4, I4, V6 or V8.
thats what I figured.... Hartley V8, where are youuuuuuuuuu?????
Mid engined, the S30 could be AWD
We could take back the rally racing scene!!!
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Holy Old Thread Batman!
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Impressive!!! This has a TON of potential IMO!
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any reason why you shouldn't use it as your fuel filter at the same time? Maybe have a pickup filter for the low pressure pump, your standard glass jobbie...
One question I have, and I know I have seen it mentioned before but I cannot recall the answer: why do so many surge tank setups return the fuel from the rail to the surge tank, rather than to the fuel tank directly? I would imagine returning it from the rail to the surge tank would wind up heating the fuel in the surge tank. Am I just imagining an issue where there is not one? (ie, the heat soaked up by the fuel is in the fuel no matter where it goes) To my thinking, returning it all the way to the tank would give it more time to cool, plus the metal surface of the tank itself would act as a heatsink to cool it from airflow under the carriage...
So am I wrong, or is this just not (usually) such a big deal as I make it out to be, or what?
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someone told me you could get it printed at walmart.. I've been thinking about taking the time to delete the cali and auto bits from the 75 diagram I have, coloring some more important wires, and having a couple copies printed up...
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It sounds like you may be experiencing some issues from vesitgial remains of the starter interlock system.. a woeful, godforsaken bit of bastard engineering that Nissan blessed us with for a few model years in the mid 70s.
I can't help you track the issue down, because I am about to careen headlong into the same problem the next time I start playing with MY 75.. but the fact that your starting amp issue goes away with the harness connected makes me wonder if the car is hampering something through design (the flawed design of whatever may remain of your interlock system) rather than through fault (ie, short somewhere, "magic wire," gremlins)
Dunno if this will help any, but since I encouraged you so much into this project I feel obligated to try at least
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Here are the pictures that josh817 is talking about:
Fence rail and dremel FTW
Seriously, though, it is good to see that your question about the venturis is finally answered; I've been curious myself since the first time I saw you bring it up.
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mmmmmmmm... black cherry Z......
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Hey, lewoolf found the website and pointed it out in the thread. I CAN say that my brothers' ITS 240 has a dual EGT gauge from these people mounted in it and it looks great, works great. It was in the car when they bought it, so no clues on ease of installation, but it fits the car rather well.
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Lovelife, by Atmosphere
Individually wrapped, placed in neat little rows
Becoming A piece, of everything that grows
Some numbers, A name, to indicate you played the game
Came empty handed and left the same
A soul is A soul and A shell is A shell
The border in between is full of everything you felt
Some cling to A cross because they're tired and lost
They leave it up to the weather to measure the cost
And everytime I look within I recognize the darkness
Familiar to the image of the artist
Staring at the bathroom mirror in A strangers apartment
Can't remember her name, don't remember how I got here
But here I am, thinking about death again
Humbles out the stress, helps the breath get in
I need to check my friends as well as my next of kin
To let them know I love them all to the end
And when the soul begins to reap, I think she'll know me from the sleep
I keep caught in the corner of my bloodshot eyes
And if she has the nerve, to let me dump a few last words
I'm gonna turn to the earth and scream "Love your life!"
Love your life, quite cliche but I guess thats me
A ball of pop culture with some arms and feet
As discrete as I've tried to keep the drama and cancer
It's no secret I hunger for someone to feed the answers
I never expected a bowl of cherries
I'm just a virgo trying to find my own version of the virgin mary
And when I let them carry me to a cemetary
I wanna be buried with a pocket full of clarity
Now, how many times must you prove you're an angel
How many more demons do you have to strangle
How much longer must you remain in this dream
Before I finally figure out if you're insane or a genius
How many times must you prove you're an angel
How many more demons do you have to strangle
How much longer must you remain in this dream
Before I finally figure out if you're insane or a genius
Let no tears to fall from none of y'all
Just remember it all, the beauty as well as the flaws
L-O-V-E L-I-F-E
Here lies Sean, finally free
And as I look across the sea I smile at the sun
While it feeds the weeds the nutrition they need
The people still breathe, the city still bleeds
I'm going to love it to death and keep planting my seeds
I'm going to love it to death and keep an eye on the seeds
I'll be in love till im dead, I keep reaching the seeds
I'll give all I got left just to teach you to read
Love life to the death and keep planting my seeds
And when the soul begins to reap, I think she'll know me from the sleep
I keep caught in the corner of my bloodshot eyes
And if she has the nerve, to let me dump a couple last words
I'm gonna turn to the earth and scream (Love your life)
Thanks Armand... I did need this. Anytime the tunnel gets darker.. just put the highbeam stick halfway, so both lights come on!
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Okay, okay, it is tantamount to HybridZ blasphemy to consider finding an alternative like what I propose here....
...but rear wheel cylinders have been NLA for 70-76 cars for some time now. I know ALL about the various rear disc swaps (at one point, I had every last BOLT I needed, calipers, rotors, brackets from an 84 maxima.. all in a bucket, and the bucket walked away) but for discussions' sake..
Has NOBODY found some rear wheel cylinder that can be used on a 240/260/early 280 rear drum setup?? Any simple modifications of other brakes??
I mean, its a DRUM BRAKE CYLINDER. We aren't talking about a lower control arm, or a water pump, or even a shock absorber setup. A simple cylinder with two pistons that expands when fluid is forced into it. Preferably something that bolts up to the stock mounting points with ease, but if it were THAT simple I don't believe no one has found an answer yet.
I keep turning the ideas over in my head, because THIS is the biggest single budget item keeping my car off the road; I cannot accept the idea that a disc swap is my ONLY option. (The last set of wheel cylinders *I* saw on ebay went for $160 plus shipping!) I keep thinking to myself, "Shawn, one of these days you are going to have to go junkyarding to find a rear wheel cylinder solution..." but, I figured I would start a thread to see if anyone else has had similar thoughts; see if anyone tried anything, and maybe (JUST maybe) see if anyone had any results.
The only goal is to be an inexpensive solution for rear brakes, given that your original wheel cylinders are shot, and you weren't one of those crafty buggers who stocked up on them back in the 1994..... Any comments, experiences, ideas, or research assistance (someone else to go junkyarding "in search of...") are welcome
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huh??? cheaper... performance difference? pump gas?
What is going on here?
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I don't even like flares that aren't blended in to the fenders.. Another vote for body color here!
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bah, two LEDs or regular bulbs and you have turn signal/flasher indicators.. another blue one and theres your bigh beam indicator. You could even gut an old switch and put all three lights into one housing in the center console.
Aziza, have you considered the option of finding gauges to frankenstein together into stock gauge housings/faceplates? It would be a MONSTER task to be sure, but..... ?? just a thought.
EDIT
How deeply did you check that westach website? No photos, sure, but it seems like that is what you are looking for. Maybe they could email you pictures??
EDIT V 2
they've got at least one image
These gauges would match the later 280 (77 and 78 were each subtly different) speedo and tach fairly well.... and you can "build an instrument" custom-like, so you could theoretically have the stock speedo and tach, and then add up to twelve instruments in 3 1/8 inch individual "Gauges" in each of the middle pods.... Good Find!!!
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I think it'll be alot more enjoyable to drive now.
I never did get rid of the "sticking" tendency my 75 (EFI) gas pedal had at the top.. what a PITA!! and this is NOTHING compared to the 240 pedal issue mentioned... I can imagine it IS a bit more enjoyable to drive!!
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The deal is you guys are trying to have a debate about something I don't care to debate about. This thread was made to show off the new exhaust not to have a pissing match about how 2 smaller pipes are just as good as one big pipe. I simply made a comment that I didn't think these would be good for a turbo set-up just trying to stay active in the conversation going on, and I get called out for it. Sure I may be wrong but I never said I knew what the hell I was talking about. With all that said I know you guys know what your talking about, and im not saying your wrong, I just like proof aka dyno proven results.
Hey man, no malice here.. "I'm Just Sayin'" is all.
Sorry to piss on the parade, FWIW... but in the end, alot of BS flies around about twice pipes and I appointed myself Defender of the Truth on this subject about a year ago... so any time the discussion comes up, I like to make the mathematical and theoretical facts known for posterity's sake. Once in a blue moon, someone signs up to HybridZ with the intent of using the Search feature, and it is nice to have a couple voices out there that keep that in mind.. the more definitive, logical, and fact-based answers we have in threads out there, the more useful the search function is.
So, once again, apologies for any affront, and TWICE PIPES SOUND THE BESTESTEST!!!!
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I now have a video with pistons -
Me Likey
Help me beat the neon!!!!
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
Another point I will add is that there are PLENTY of "waypoints" on the road to 400 horses that you can camp out at for a while.. somewhere you will reach a waypoint that is sufficient to beat the neon. (My buddy has one so I know the car well; I admire it for what Chrysler did to make a fast, cheap car... but it isn't that special, and it after a few steps of upgrading it is pretty well at the point where any more out of that engine is going ragged-edge)
You can stop adding power at any of these points, and work on suspension, tires, and your driving skill. 400 horsepower in a Z or ZX is A WHOLE LOT. Besides, what does the neon run the 1/4 mile in, 14, 14.5? Piece of cake![:D](//forums.hybridz.org/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png)