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Daeron

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Posts posted by Daeron

  1. I agree...I think it would probably be best to have those changes made before sending to SSAC. That way, they could copy those changes and the group buyers would not have to worry about further modifications. (Since most of us are going to be using a T04E, T04B, or some other type of T4 turbo, we might as well have SSAC take care of the machining to address any fitment issues.)

     

    I want to emphasize more than I did in my previous post that, "best" in this case is used, KNOWING that it may well not be practical given the group buy nature of this effort. I just wanted to put it out there as an "ideal" that would be achieved in a perfect world is all :)

     

    I seem to have alot of ideas and thoughts on this, even tho I have NOTHING to do with the group buy, so I am trying not to be a pest about it :icon54:

  2. I would suggest making custom gauge faceplates, if you can find a way to rip off the typeset somehow. That would let you put the high beam indicator wherever you want, and allow you to clock the speedo properly. It shouldn't be TOO awfully difficult to get them made.

  3. How about the lights off of a Geo Storm? Pretty much the same as the fourth gen Camaro headlights:

    GeoStorm2.jpg

    I call it "The Homosexual French Camaro," or alternately, in the case of the hunchback (which was my first car) "The New Gremlin"

    1990-93-Geo-Storm-91125031990209.jpg

     

    Ugly? sorta, but believe it or not it grows on you. Not a horrible little car, and believe it or not it is (very) distant kin to the 1990s FWD Lotus Elan.

  4. Well, a T4 properly mounted would be lifted somewhat away from the areas of interference, and we can't forget that. Granted, the diameter of the exhaust turbine is larger, but the centerline of that turbine will also not be as low as the T3 in the photo; nor would a T3 mounted on a proper T3 flange on this header, exactly as-is.

     

    The brake cylinder in question is an issue that should be dealt with on any Z anyhow, as are the hard lines. I think that maybe with .100-.125" combined milled off of both the head flange, and the turbo flange, and another 1/4-1/2" in clearancing done by backing the turbo flange up a bit, all the space you could need should be made available.

     

    Will SSAC have any problems making these changes? Might it not be a decent idea to make the changes to this header somehow before sending it off? Or am I just whistling in the dark? :roll:

  5. I don't even SEE S30s in the junkyards here anymore.. 280ZXs are becoming rarer (certainly not dependably present) and its mostly Z31s and Z32s. Actually, if I find one or two "z-cars" of any stripe its rare, and I have three local to me.

     

    I will post anything I see, though.. a junkyard sub-forum would be great, as long as new posts could only be made relevant to new trips to the yard. With an entire sub-forum, each trip/set of cars in the yard gets its own thread to spread the info, browsing the sub forum would essentially be as good as browsing every junkyard that contributing members browse.. It would be great for the community of a car that is now approaching 40 years old.

  6. S30_L6Header_0033.jpg

    Not all the pictures are of professional quality but I tried to get every angle possible.

     

     

    I would say you didn't botch the photographs to horribly.....

     

    Wow. What a close fit... It almost appears impossible to fit a downpipe onto the turbo in a few pictures, but other shots make it look not-so-critical. I presume if it were woefully close you would have mentioned something; also, not to forget that with a proper flange the entire center axis of the turbo would be shifted upwards slightly... Still, fitment of larger than stock turbos is likely to be an issue each owner will have to attend to, even if it is just a bit of fender bashing.

     

    Beyond the close tolerances, though... Look at the volume of airpsace in between the exhaust manifold/turbocharger and the intake manifold!!! Am I betraying my NA biased experience, or is that not about twice as much space between intake and exhaust as the stock setup??? It seems that whatever prices paid in close fitment are likely to pay dividends in that regard.

     

    Also, couldn't that proximity to the fender, brake bias/warning light switch thingy, and steering shaft be reduced by rotating the motor a few degrees and dropping the starter side a bit?

     

    The tight fit *may* be an issue in spots, but I think this header just got even better looking :D

  7.  

    Guess how big that motor is?

     

    2 liters flat. DE stroked, small bore, L20A 6cylinder. Yah, its built like the freakin space shuttle, but all the years I have played with Zs have yet to "teach" me the difference in sound between the various displacement setups we have available. I am not saying it cannot be done, I just think that "the sound of the stroker motor" is not that much different from the sound of a 2.4 liter motor with the same intake, exhaust, cam and head/piston/chamber characteristics. A cam makes more difference in the sound of an engine than almost any other thing, the muffler and carb/intake choice being a close second. The valvetrain comes after that, but since almost all the Z valvetrains are the same solid lifter setup that isn't really a variable. After the valvetrain I would say compression likely plays the next greatest role, but I am guessing at that.

     

    My point, overall, is that it seems to ME at least that (regarding L6 engines at least) the stroke and bore of the engine have little impact on the overall sound it makes. Triples just sound awesome, thats all :)

  8. I'm pretty sure you are going to NEED to use a fuel tank from a 77 280Z; in fact, you may even have a limited range of production months to choose from. I know my old man had a very very limited range for his 78 280Z, and I know the 77s were somewhat easier, but IIRC the last 2 years of production on the 280Z saw 3 or 4 totally different gas tanks.

     

    Maybe someone with some more specific recollections can chime in??

  9. What about simply routing the fuel rail return line back to the gas tank rather than the surge tank? Returning from the line to the surge tank preserves the heat already accumulated in the fuel in the surge tank rather than sending it on a long trip back to the nice cool gas tank, and then gives all fuel entering the surge tank a nice long cooling trip up before it gets there....

     

    I haven't yet set up a surge tank on a vehicle, but it strikes me as odd that so many people return from the rail to the tank, and then from the tank to the fuel cell, rather than routing main fuel rail return line to the tank for cooling. I suppose it must be logistically more complicated in a way that hasn't occurred to me, since I have only thought about it rather than actually doing it yet.

  10. It looks like I am among the first to read, so I will throw out two things I noticed..

     

    A: Spark

     

    You verified with a noid light.. Did you pull the plugs to look at them? Check gap? Okay, well, my real suggestion was to pull a plug, connect it to the wire, ground out the electrode, and visually inspect the spark as it appears when it is in your combustion chamber. You never know.

     

    B: Compression.

     

    I don't even want to say any more here, I just had to point out that it was one of the basics you hadn't specifically verified in your post. I hope like hell this is a blind suggestion :)

     

    Hope this helps, and good luck.

  11. I just gutted a Z32 cluster I found at a junk yard. I pulled the speedo and tach and test wired up the speedo for now. It works like a charm. The speedo and tach boards are small enough to fit into the stock gauge housings. Now that I know it works, I am going to install the speedo and tach into my stock gauge housings.

     

    I am trying to figure out a way to retain the Z32 odometer and trip meter though.

     

    Any chance at managing to maintain a stockish look? Call me childish, but I am sorta in love with the typeface and visual appearance of the gauges from 70-76.. with a decided preference for 74-76 equipment. (Not too particular, am I?:roll:)

     

    Even if it would take the production of a custom face for the gauge due to "clock" differences, it should be do-able.. but is there any chance that they line up so you can just use either face on the Z32 gauge?

  12. That Cadillac is GORGEOUS!!!!!! I could not believe my eyes! For the record, I like classic American cars, but they aren't my forte. Really the old Datsuns are. Still, that Caddy is just.. incredible! The Charger video is awesome, too..

     

     

    but mostly, thanks for letting me read this interesting conversation. Shame on counterfeiters.

  13. Remove the CD player from the vehicle and see if your lights come back. The first stereo I ever installed in a car was in my old Geo Storm, and somehow I originally wired it up wrong in a way that the stereo worked, but my running lights (including tails) and gauge lights didnt work; I discovered I had wired a ground up improperly (I Think I used the vehicle's illumination wire for a ground? or something?) But try pulling the plug on the stereo and see what happens.

  14. Patience, child, you live in New England where things rust quickly and junkyards are not always as forgiving as they should be. ZXT motors are still around; you just seem to be unfortunate enough to NOT have a pick-and-pull type yard near you. I guarantee that finding a complete ZXT motor will be cheaper than getting the RB, and the only reason the RB seems so "obtainable" is because it fetches a decent price, so the people who sell them make sure they are rather visible. ZXT motors are going to be a little more obscure to find... but not necessarily more difficult. It just won't pop up under a google search of "buy ZXT motor" like "buy RB26 motor" would.

  15. Nope, direct bolt on and drive.

     

    Yep, 14x7, pretty sure they use flat style lug nuts (like stock ZX alloys) and the backspacing is at least "close enough." We somehow acquired like 10 or 12 of these rims, along with some hoosier slicks that were used, towards the beginning of my old man's "race effort." My Dad's racecar, the Grey Ghost which was pictured above in maroon, was a quick-and-dirty, parking lot autoXer; I think the total budget dumped into the car over two or three years was less than 2K. Having scads of parts, a brother with scads of parts, sons with scads of parts, and the whole family with scads of experience, can make things possible on a budget! For example, that car was called "The Grey Ghost" because it was ALWAYS in primer.. until my dad and his friend mixed up that blend of leftover paint and sprayed it that maroon color one weekend. The smiley face was intended to ensure that paintjob was temporary.

  16. but in the process of reviving it, they have now priced it out of the Z's motto of "Poor man's sports car"

     

    unless a 30K car to them is considered "poor

     

    I cannot disagree or refute that fact, but making a whole new car is NOT going to be anything affordable, hence my previous post in this thread: leave the 350 alone, cheapen it up, and drop the sticker price. Thats the only route to a cheap Z.

  17. I would look into simply getting custom springs for it... Any off-road, truck, or wheeler shop should be able to help you with a set of springs that would have the ride height and characteristics you want. If you plan on making any substantial changes to the car (ie engine swap, extra steel for roll cage or whatever, significant weight change things) then do those first, before getting the springs made....

     

    ...BUT.. Look at those tires.

     

    Look at them.

     

    Throw some 80 series sidewalls on the car and you will be AMAZED how tall it sits.

     

    Stock suspension, 80 series freebie tires I got from a friend when I was in a jam:

    thread010.jpg

  18. .......

     

     

    They DID!! Where do you think the tree-fiddy came from?!!?

     

    what they NEED is a 2400 pound, 2 liter, 200 horse roadster. If they had any GUMPTION they could've come out with it in 2000 and beaten the S2000 to the punch. *pause while I lament the Fair Lady That Could Have Been....*

     

     

    ..But back to reality now, the new Beetle came out, the PT Cruiser came out, and then Nissan's North American design team drew up the "240Z concept" that evolved directly into our VQ Powered, loved-and-hated 350Z. Then the Charger was released, then the new Mustang, the Challenger is trickling out onto the roadways (I saw one in a driveway the other day and almost made a mess in my pants, hands down best resurrection of a car EVER, PM me for some year old shots of a couple of the first unibodies coming off the line) and weren't we going to get a new Camaro a la Transformers???

     

    My point is, not too many corporate executives feel too rambunctious about jumping onto the bandwagon of "hot new retro styled cars." It is a risk, because it costs money, and ALOT of it, to set up manufacture for a fully redesigned or new vehicle. Nissan has already taken this risk once, reviving a vehicle line that they had discontinued because of slumping sales. You cannot expect them to be eager to do it again, especially when the vehicle we speak of reviving is remembered chiefly as "THE poor man's sports car." The sales of any "new 240Z" would suffer if it were not priced low, and so in the end you want to ask a stoic company's board of directors (Japanese and French) to gamble a huge sum of money on a car that cannot be sold for anything more than 30-35K per unit.

     

     

    I hate to rain on the parade, but like I said, we HAVE to keep in mind the fact that nissan already DID Revive the Z!!!!!!!!

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