Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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learn how to use the ammeter portion of your multimeter. Knowing how to test for various electrical problems is a VERY subtle and detailed skill, and chances are you need to expand your diagnostics knowledge.
Try going to a library and see if you can find an Auto Mechanics textbook; I have a high school text that my dad got because the school went with a different publisher, it is one of the most valuable tools I have.
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The chassis has already been started and the body panels are already being milled:)
Well, my foot is in my mouth... but I am still not holding back my breath
Good to see I wasn't taken in the wrong light; I hesitated before posting that but decided I did a fair job not sounding like a jerk.
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What about mylar film used as a sandwiching material?? It occurred to me while reading about the heat shield idea, and it never has before. I had no idea how mylar would work in this sort of high temp situation, but it certainly makes for an absolute minimal size and weight sacrifice to a layer of your sandwich.. AND is highly reflective. any chance of getting a mylar film and wrapping the header side of your shield with any success??
This thread makes me want to go back to my high school and get all of their casting goodies out of the store room since I was probably the last person to cast anything there in 1980.Just awesome the lengths people are going.
Hmmmmm.... what high school?? I have several family members that work for the school board....... mwahahahahahaaaa:flamedevi
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adjust the valves. That noise is one of the things I love about the motor. It IS a noisy, but that means the valves are slightly out of adjustment or something along those lines.
Feels good to be working on issues with how well a motor runs, rather than making the motor run, doesn't it?
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A suggestion:
I know a great number of people have been suddenly cropping up that magically know ALL ABOUT how gas stations and their supply and pricing work, so I hate to talk about stuff like this, but I DO have a good idea and have known for some time now. In MY town, all the gas comes into the port, regardless of ultimate branding, and goes into one of two tanks: 87 and 93 octane. (This is West Palm Beach, Florida, USA, about 50 miles north of Miami.)
Chevron tanks show up, they add the Techron ©, top off, and go to the Chevron stations; whatever additive package applies, similar stories play out for the other brands.
IF the market is the same or similar in your area, you MIGHT be able to find some hole in the wall or other privately owned gas station and get to know the owner to find out if you can find gas that you DO know all of these facts about. If you're going to the lab anyhow, may as well get all the data you can walk in with beforehand, right?
Just a thought; I read the update and figured I would throw it out there.
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I would say make it long enough for a BMW, Toyota, or nissan DOHC I6 and wide enough for a modular ford V8 and you are golden. Still don't like the tail outline, and by increasing the size of the roof bubble you add copious amounts of space. Small increase in height plus broadening the cabin bubble adds alot of space.
No offense, but I am still not holding my breath.. even if it is made I must confess that I doubt I will ever see one in person, and THAT is the judgment that I need to pass a final opinion on a new concept vehicle. It is pretty, though
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whats the mad scientist rust removal, baking soda and distilled water plus 12VDC? Proportions of each?
youre right, that IS a duh....
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NICE, looks great!!
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Sucks to have to move... Tho maybe you'll get your Z running. I can't imagine how bad a wiring issue would be to fix on the scale you've got. My Z has a slow voltage leak I haven't found yet, so I just disconnect the battery when I'm not going to be driving. You've got me worried about my fusible links and fuseblock now tho... Maybe I'll swap mine out. It'd be easier to find fuses that way too. Seems like a lot of work to fix something that ain't broke... yet.
Phar
Heh. the move was an adventure, but all is essentially resolved; my car is now at the shop, where my dads to-be-re-turbo'd 78 is, and my brothers's racecar with a blown engine is. The three vehicles should be commencing more or less simultaneously, as my car has one man driving it, pops's has another, and the racecar is my two brothers' so each vehicles has at LEAST one whole man on it.
I am hoping for some of that synergy stuff, positive feedback kinda vibe. The racecar _is_ being done, and in a timely manner, so me and pops get to hitch our inspiration trains onto that while we help, and in turn get stuff moving on the two 280s.
BANZAI!!!!!!!
but your comment made me think "heh, yah, thats exactly the mindframe I had about my car before my wee fire." So, in short, my problem oribably isnt as bad as you think it is... but let it scare you at least that much, because its a healthy fear
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It does present the opportunity to take advantage of the now more closely spaced induction waves by allowing separate plenums on each side of the motor...
...using an intake manifold along these lines
Since I am posting anyhoo, + a billion to braap for dropping the hammer on this thread. Sometimes the boot has to kick the tail before the tail understands.
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wigenout: that would be impossible to do, as it would wholly bugger the collector.
However, the MASSIVE amount of room between intake and turbo manifolds leads me to think that one *might* be able to get enough rotational soace out of it by machining the HEAD FLANGE at a slight angle to achieve the same rotation you mention. The turbo flange itself could also be machined to accentuate this angle. Basically cut some material off of the TOP edge of the head flange, leaving the base of it untouched to angle the entire header up a bit, then machine the turbo flange in the same way (take a bit off the top, leave the bottom the thickness it is) and you JUST might get your turbo clocked up above the rail.
As for cutting in the runners, I think that may be more problematic than you make it seem as well...
..but all of these are just my thoughts. I REALLY hope you guys get this baby figured out, as it is SO close to being a nice header....
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I would like to stick with IRS for now. I've seen this S14 run 8.10's at 171 on the R230 diff.
Justin
:eek2: thats fast!! Did the other car jump the gun, or was that an 8.10 on a horrible R/T???Regarding the diff, point taken; I had ignored it because I presumed that if something like that breaks on a car like this, it just means its time to get something beefier fabricated. It is a convenient blinder for helping to justify the "keep it nissan" mentality, which I know I at least am a hopeless victim of. Still, it does help to keep a good roster on one's idiosyncrasies.
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Looks great, here's the sawzall!
I don't want to take a jab at you stony, but lets not forget that the R230 has a ring gear that is just a hair over 9 inches in diameter.. the 230 is a pretty big pumpkin. I know it breaks like any other part, but I wouldn't lightly pass it off because one (potentially overweight?? guessing) 300ZX busted one up with a measly 600 horsies
Just the indignant datsun lover in me trying to pretend that "I keep it real-er" -
I think that jerry was attempting to remind you that more than just the sound will be transferring through the solid mounts. The vibrations, and all of their harmonics and reverberations, will travel throughout your entire car; just don't forget that. I personally don't like the idea of solid mounts on anything except a strictly purpose-built racecar that would never see the tarmac of a public road (if you can afford a "test course" other than the stretch of 13th street near the shop. Woops!)
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Tony, THANK YOU. I have been trying to get someone to tell me that for about six months without knowing it. Kinda a "duh" moment that I grabbed onto and wouldn't let go of without the right explanation.
I suppose I over-idealized my "cool return line" to the point where the idea made sense.
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Good Luck, and thanks for the engine porn!
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I leave it in for a few heat cycles or a hundred miles or so, then drain the oil and change the filter.
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My brothers may actually be interested in those rims as well.. They have a set of four already for their ITS 240Z, not sure if they would like another matching pair.. but we have lots and lots of old school Z car wheels (read: 14") if you might be interested in a trade.
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Video coming sooooon guys, I promise, I have even been rehearsing my Big Phil Texas accent...LOL
I need a full day or so on it still to work out a few last minute things and then I will shoot the video I promise!
My best - Yasin
ya gotta hit the word "camshaft" just right....
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I think the Turbo Tom is a drawthrough system, putting the carb before the turbo....
That particular piece looks like a hack job that belongs in the garbage. I just said this in another thread
and I MAY be wrong... but from the pics posted it looks like junque to me. Ditch it for some SUs; I won't knock the 4 barrel on a proper intake manifold, but that thing looks like a couple teenagers welded it up thinking they could slap a four barrel on the japcar.. Good idea, poor execution. If anything, the carb ought to be on a ramp ABOVE the intakes of the SU manifolds, and have a hole cut in the hood to snag some positive air pressure from up above the hood. -
it looks like a hack job to adapt the stock SU manifolds to a four barrel downdraft.. I don't want to knock what might actually be a well crafted piece, but it doesn't LOOK so hot and IMHO the idea is less than optimal. Why not try to score a set of SU's? people take them off of their cars all the time, it shouldn't be too difficult. If you are handy with carburetors, you could pick up a pair of decent spares (ie need rebuild) and get the Ztherapy video and have a pair of damn fine carburetors on the side there, for a not-TOO-awful price.
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If I were thinking in terms of personal opinion in your shoes, I'd ask myself which engine I would go with as a final choice.
If you pick the VQ, is it because you don't know enough about the Buick V6 or is it because you know enough to sway you away from an engine directly from that lineage.
Sounds like you did your research, but what is throwing you in one direction as opposed to the other, and are you dead sure about what you're using as key points to contribute to either choice?
Maybe someone can help toss in a bit more key points.
I'm not researching either for a potential swap; MY motivation in all this is to further my understanding of reciprocating assemblies, and why they function the way they do to put out the power they do. I feel like I have a decent enough grasp on the theories behind building a hi-power L6 at this point, and I am beginning to explore how many of those "whys" in that process will effect other IC engines, and also seeing what cylinder geometry combinations make good power in what kind of setup.
I have long since embarked upon a shadetree engineering degree, with curriculum designed and administered by yours truly, to yours truly. This topic is one I have been batting about and the thread is a net of sorts, that I threw out to harvest some more input from those that know the GM engine better than I, and those that know the VQ engine better than I.
Something is telling me that all of those super badass GNXs have long connecting rods in them.. it seems to me that if 2:1 rod/stroke ratio can be achieved on this engine, and if people are making 1100 horses with this engine, then chances are they make those ponies on long rods and the stockers probably limit things, but even that single statement is a gross oversimplification.
I am honing my mind, thats all. At this point the only engines I could EVER bring myself to swap into a Z would be nissan V8 or RB, and even those would take serious convincing of myself. I loves me some L-gata
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are you getting proper fuel pump relay signal through the entire system? There are a series of little switches (including one in the AFM IIRC) that need to close for the fuel pump relay to be energized and the fuel injectors to be fired, and if that circuit isnt complete then the vehicle presumes something is fundamentally wrong and disables fuel. It is a safety consideration; if the vehicle is flipped over then fuel wont pump or squirt from the injectors.
Didn't re read the whole thread, but have you been introduced to the EFI bible yet? Search my name and the term EFI Bible and you will find a post started by me that contains all your answers, and better yet, the methodology for finding those answers, AND the theory behind how all the system works in the first place.
HTH
:eek2:
and I MAY be wrong... but from the pics posted it looks like junque to me. Ditch it for some SUs; I won't knock the 4 barrel on a proper intake manifold, but that thing looks like a couple teenagers welded it up thinking they could slap a four barrel on the japcar.. Good idea, poor execution. If anything, the carb ought to be on a ramp ABOVE the intakes of the SU manifolds, and have a hole cut in the hood to snag some positive air pressure from up above the hood.
ZXR .. Super turbo prosponed BMW V8 planned
in Other Engines
Posted
Why does an image of Al Bundy come to mind?