Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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search my name in the S30 forum for a thread I started recently about rear brake wheel cylinders, ppl provided me with lots of links to rear cylinders at the most reasonable prices that exist.. about 70 apiece.
good luck!
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Let's not forget the incredible value of this piece in one aspect:
It shows us how little we really KNOW for certain about how much, and in which ways, it can make an impact... and I am imagining that even the people who invented it have not yet fully charted its effects. Its also led to a lot of introspection and stimulated alot of thought here alone thus far.
Humble pie, anyone?
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Jon,
Your answers, as usual, are appreciated and incredibly insightful.. the best counter I can come up with is to say that IF this double element wing seems to have an impact over a similarly sized single element wing with comparable total impact, then the first place I would look to see where that difference was felt would be the varied downforce on the inside corner. Something of a lame-duck argument, but call it a restatement of my earlier point.
The only question I have left is to ask if there is any way that the increased downforce on the inside corner could be a detriment. Would it not also help to curb body roll? (is that what the post above me is concerned with? the phrase "yaw moments" is not one I am fully familiar with.)
Once again, thanks for the description.. one of these days I really have to put down the fiction I read and get into some chassis tuning technical works. My brother has one or two, and those (along with the standard L-engine rebuild.mod books by honsowetz and company) have been on my required reading list for too long.
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Exaactly. License and Registration please. Oh Officer is it ok if I have to reach into my glove compartment? ...... The biggest thing that helps is to be 100% HONEST. When they pull you over and ask what you did, you TELL THEM, in as much detail as possible. That's all they want, honesty.
You are a smart kid... have I mentioned that before? I think I did, in your thread that got around to talk of canyon driving and roll bars etc....
I saw a video of a presentation made by a law professor and an ex PD chief who was studying to become a defense lawyer, and they recommended never EVER talking to the police without a lawyer present, and presented a series of compelling arguments with examples of how, in any situation, speaking to the police can be twisted into something that could potentially damage your case. Naturally, this was more focused on criminal investigations, but the advice held for any infraction of the law.. it just seems to me that traffic stops are a little lighter-weight than what they were focusing on, and in practice I agree with you, honesty and complete disclosure work well to avoid charges being leveled (awkward *cough*) BUT.. if things get odd in their line of questioning for some reason, wisdom DOES seem to dictate that keeping your mouth shut can NEVER get you into trouble beyond a brief delay while your lawyer is summoned. The way they painted it, in the long run your advantage is always to keep your mouth shut, because as they say, anything you say can and will be used against you.. The unspoken corollary to that is, nothing you say can ever be used FOR you.
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I have noticed a few rather potent V6 engines showing up around the block lately, and noticed many of them seem to hover around 3.7-3.8 liters. The VQ is finally landing there and seems to be just hitting its stride, after 10-12 years as one of the best rated engines almost universally. The turbo regal motor has a VERY firmly established reputation of being capable of upwards of 1000 horsepower; I wonder what the big VQs will see in time.
However, I am not trying to compare the two motors, or any similar displacement motor, in qualitative terms whatsoever. I care not which is better for what in any sense; I just want to analyze the differences. The purpose of this post is to see what discussion it might stimulate, and to correct and expand the information I have gotten thus far if needs be.
I started doing some research on the Buick motor (my term for it, I have learned there is far more subtlety to "the GM 3800" than one might think. However, the key bits I have focused my thoughts on have been bore, stroke, and rod length. Before I copare those side by side, a bit of general description of the two engines.
The Buick engine is an iron-block, aluminum head, OHV. I was surprised to see how many GM V6s ARE still OHV, but I have prejudices regarding OHC engines that I am only now fully appreciating the scope of. The deck is relatively short, and the angle is 90 degrees. Most other GM V6s are based on the 60 degree vee, but not the Regal motor.
Nissan VG37D, unsure specific engine code but judging from the intelligible characters on the japanese website from which this picture came it has VVT:
The Nissan V6 is an all-aluminum, DOHC engine with a 60 degree bank angle. Single timing chain turning balance shafts which operate the twin camshafts. This engine has a MUCH longer deck, and that is the primary difference between the two. Here is a link to a high res image of a VQ35D: http://stadium.weblogsinc.com/autoblog/hirezpics/infiniti_vq35_1280.jpg
Here is the Bore..... Stroke.... and Rod Length for
3800 S1....86.4mm..96.5mm.........105mm
3800 S2....same......same............120.65mm
VQ35........95.5mm..81.4mm.........140mm
VQ37........same......86mm............Unknown, likely(?) 140mm
The two are almost identical when it comes to bore and stroke.. but the rods are totally different. The Series II 3800 has a taller deck and longer rods, but that was introduced in 1995; which means all of those bad-a$$ GNXs out there are running the short rod motor. At least, they were 12+ years ago. The VQ is a much taller engine, with a much longer connecting rod. I could not find specific deck height numbers for either engine, but I had anticipated (guessed) that the rod ratio, as well as bore/stroke ratio would be similar between these two engines, despite the fact that one is a two-valve CC and the other a four-valve. How much do you think the valving of the chamber is a situation of complementing the intake stroke of such a short rod and its accompanying high angles? Wouldn't the longer rod on the Nissan lend itself to higher RPMs and smoother torque delivery to the crankshaft?
My entire analysis was kicked off because, as I said, it seemed like I had heard of several recent 3.5+ liter V6s making waves out there. If anyone has these specs for engines produced by other makers, please post them up; I am curious how the motors from different manufacturers compare, both by the numbers and in real life. Any discussion or postulation that anyone has is welcome; there is no overall POINT being sought, just a general expansion of my understanding of internal geometry.
Now, as a treat for you having read all that, here is a link to a video of a transparent VQ35 being spun at an auto show in NY:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1V8mZ96824
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I presume youre like me, hands on the wheel at ten and two until he gets to the window, thenyou say "wallet in back pocket, the rest is in the glovebox," then proceed to unbuckle and let him know you're getting it all out...
I find that when you UTTERLY placate cops, and tell them every move you make before time, etc.. they highly respect you for it. If you think about it, they have GOT to be on their toes for every traffic stop.. may as well take part of the hassle out of their job and set them at ease. Can't hurt you, can it?
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ita linked to in like 29347322 different posts here, it is on blue's tech tips page, it is on xenonsomethingorother's website (xenonxii? xenonZ? something like that)
I dont feel like searching for a link, but at least half of the results of a search of the term EFI bible here on hybridZ should have your link. Quite honestly, that is why no one has really showed up to point you towards your answer.. its been done athousand times before and the only reliable way to solve your problem involves you reading that book and not us trying to interpret your posts and diagnose from miles away.
Sorry to be blunt, but this IS a blunt sort of forum
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With a forklift you can adjust left/right placement of both forks AND the up/down pitch.
There's plenty of things down there to lift off of that would hold up fine.
I think you guys are being a bit anal. You should see how most shops use their 4 point lifts...
Seriously, I am with Gollum on this one.
How can using a forklift, which at LEAST contacts two points on one frame rail (if it wasnt done RIGHT) is any more dangerous than using a hydraulic jack at one single point of a frame rail, which I do all the time at the shop if I lift the car. A very lowered car either needs to be driven onto long and slightly inclined ramps before jacking it up, or you have to go one corner at a time... My uncle has a roadster, and they came with small "patches" on each rocker panel. Pop the [patch off, there is a little hole that the factory service jack slips a peg into, and it lifts the entire side of the car at once. My uncle had a few sets of "lollipops" fabricated so that he can just use a hydraulic jack on the "lollipop" protruding from the hole.
Now, done RIGHT, the forklift forks were adjusted side to side, and in and out (by approaching or backing off from the car) and then angled to hit the two frame rails at the same level, giving four broad contact patches to lift the vehicles weight.
I would call a forklift or a four point lift the SAFEST way to lift a car; hydraulic jack balanced on a central point lifting either axle might be the second, and a jack lifting one frame rail one corner at a time the third, then that same jack lifting the entire SIDE of the car fourth. Personally, I would consider all four of these options to be as reasonable as the equipment used to lift it.
Was it a Datsun Forklift?
EDIT
It looks like they lifted it by the 80 pound rear bumper. I would be hard pressed to find a more safe way to lift it (safe to the vehicle; NOT safe to get underneath and whack at a stuck spindle pin; it could slip off if jarred awful)
The bumper mounts weigh what, 5, 8 pounds apiece?? They tie straight into the rear truncation of the frame rail. If the vehicle is solid at ALL thats the most solid and most eccentric lifting point. Just firmly chock the front wheels (may as well park in front of a wall for good measure) and you couldnt be much more golden, unless you lifted it and then bolted the bumper mounts to a solid bar that was welded to posts set in concrete.....
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All important semantic points, and a GREAT anecdotal thread.... For posterity's sake, is there any chance you could snap a photo of the combustion chamber on the E88 head you were using, and also possibly get a photo of the old piston vs new piston up here?
This thread is VERY close to an ideal tool demonstrating something that can happen when parts get mis-matched, in a marginal case. In other words, it is a good illustration of an "outside chance." The "common wisdom" here is pretty much that the combination you put together may work, or may not.. so regardless of all that, the more photo examples of what was being used here, the more useful this thread is in the future. I am certainly bookmarking this to refer back to later.
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One thing that has not been mentioned is the simple fact that, when you compare this piece to the counterparts that exist for American Iron on these shores, you have to also mention the fact that multiple companies have been competing with different products for the V8 market, and have been forced by each other to increase quality and decrease costs. Not only that, but they have also had DECADES to work on minimizing production costs, as well as decades of making profits; the greddy RB piece has made far less money for its owners at this point. As such, it is a far more valuable piece.
The competition shows one of the strong points of unburdened free market capitalism.. but the conformity factor involved (no one here is wanting to "go V8 and this is a premium cost of that choice) is an unfortunate cost of that free market choice.
I say someone should buy a greddy manifold, cut it in half, knock off a mold, and cast manifold halves so they can be hand tweaked and welded together.. Backyard blast furnaces CAN be built that would be capable of the task. I looked into the entire concept a few months ago and if I get a chance, I think I may build a small furnace to try some small-scale casting, just to see what its like. Who knows how far one might be able to go.
Or, you could just cough up the 500+ for either a knockoff tweaked into goodness or the price for the genuine unit. Or just go ITB. They are all expensive choices; it stinks. Honestly, that is why I stick mostly with L6s.
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ZR8ED, some 240z taillights would look REALLY good on your car.
I think that usually holds true for just about any 260/280Z, preferably the Euro 240 with amber turn signals.. and my problem is more with the big solid red tail light than the divorced back up light. Unfortunately, one doesn't see TOO many images of a 280 style tail light assembly with an amber lens.. I have always wanted to see that in the flesh TBH, just to see how much of the issue *I* have with the 280 light is the solid red element as opposed to the divorced back up light.
But I agree, ZR8EDs car in particular would be improved with 240 tail lights. Most of the time its not so pronounced in my eyes, and I've always been grateful for the subtle distinction that made it easy to tell them apart. Thats actually a third reason to prefer the 240 tails; the simple fact that it subtly makes the rear look more like the older car.
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hey, 220 whp in a 2400 pound 240Z is still FAST. For all the variation between the cars here, 150-650 horsepower.. like you said, much of that is lost in wheel spin. ANYBODY should be driving with 220 horses before they go further, and no one should ever feel TOO bad that theyve "only" got 200-225 on the asphalt.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that we sometimes lose sight of these facts here at HybridZ... but it IS good to bring them back to the surface once in a while.
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That would be mine. I was quite surprised when I saw that one.
I rather thought you might be; I thought it was a great valvetrain portrait, and that is something I need to become more visually familiar with at this point. I grew up around L-engines in various states of completion and running condition, I have seen them rebuilt and torn down.. but haven't actually handled too much, and I have learned ALOT in the last couple years that I need to re-associate with what are now only memories of seeing machine parts.
I leave desktop backgrounds as they are for some time usually.. but I rotate them as I find new ones. The Crown Jewels stayed around for a while because I liked the way XP faded the red out when i clicked "turn off" on the taskbar.
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I am not in the market for the piece, but it seems like recent acceleration in pace has scattered some of the organization that pulled this group effort together.. Not criticizing anyone, but somebody involved ought to begin compiling two lists.. one "definitely in" group, and one "definitely in, here is $20-40-80 American, thankyvermuch!"
Really, it would be appropriate for another breakdown into priorities at this point. Kinda bring things together. I would definitely consider anyone financially "in" to be included in a "first time group buy" special pricing; if 400 is the needed sum to reimburse "our" half of the header into jgkurz's pocket, then 20 interested parties need only come up with $20 apiece.
In essence, this hypothetical $20 contribution isn't exactly a deposit, but more of a buy-in to a co-op to get the header made. If non-contributing "definitely ins" wind up getting in on the group pricing then great; that will be seen. I would think contributors get to vote on specifics like wastegate sizing etc, as needed.. but these are just suggestions.
I would say that the people at SSAC are likely planning on having this item available in the future.. once they have tooled up for it and have made a few extras to copy, it is just as easy for them to do it for themselves as it is for us.
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Don't know whose head this is, but this is what I am sporting right now...
For a while last year, I was rockin' the bling-bling.. and I STILL think this is my favorite desktop wallpaper of all time
(thats the russian crown jewels for the record, thanks wikipedia!)
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I still don't see this as beneficial. I could be wrong though. Why not let the ARB do the ARB's job and then just go for max down force? Why throw away down force that otherwise would cause the outside tire to generate more traction?That's what I'm thinking too. If you're running really stiff springs, and you should if you're going to make a lot of downforce, then there won't be that much roll, so you can have the whole wing working and get twice the downforce that you would from this thing.
"...any transfer of load from one tire of a pair to the other reduces the total tractive capacity of the pair."
-Carroll Smith
So, isn't that why, in a turn, the inside wheel would be receiving more downforce?? You have more of the vehicle's weight on the outside rear tire (especially once you start accelerating) so the need for downforce applied to that corner would be less than the need for the downforce on the other corner...
Interesting piece though. It is neat to see these things coming to fruition. Oh, and thanks, Alan, for two more pictures added to my "zcar" subdirectory
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Bravo!!!! I was wondering what your response to that question was going to be, and I must admit I had a bit of a sly grin.. "how is he gonna handle THAT curveball??"
Your response was beautiful, honest, businessmanship. (is that a word?) Thanks for being up front and not BSing about anything. (even though I have no direct interest in any of this at the moment)
You can buy the BHJ damper through your engine builder, Rebello, or any performance shop and in some cases you can get it for less than buying it directly from BHJ. We have an established "Racer Net" (retail) price, which we use for sale to the general public. If a reseller wants to sell BHJ harmonic dampers for a lower price, it is their right to do so. So shopping around is a good idea and is by no means discouraged by BHJ. You'll find this is the case with many other products and manufacturers out there.
Cheers,
Chris @ BHJ
I would say that honesty like that more than compensates for any difference in price, and I will keep this in mind for future reference.
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I know that many OEM subaru parts are Ishino brand, and I also know that older subarus and datsuns are first cousins.. the IR 60 amp alternator from my 87 GL-10 soobie looks identical to the externally regulated 50 amp from my 280Z, except for a minor shift in clock positioning.
Sorry it isn't a more direct answer to your question on the Ishino L6 headgaskets, but since no one else had chimed in about those..
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read the EFI bible and you will find your answer.
All answers ARE contained within. The computer is a simple simple little machine about as complex as a digital watch, and it measures a handful of parameters, ALL of which are used to calculate the correct amount of fuel.
In other words, any sensor your car has, PROBABLY has something to do with the fueling.
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those headlights are hideous!
makes the car look stoned!
You know... I didn't care too much either way for those headlights until you mentioned it. Now I like them; it sorta reminds me of the way the characters in Fox Trot and some other comic strips have big X's for their eyes before their cup of morning coffee.. almost makes it look like some sort of futuristic robo Zed impersonator..... ALL YOUR BOOST ARE BELONG TO US
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probly too late, but I have always INFINITELY preferred white or light colors for the engine bay... looks nice though. Whatever color its painted in, a nice, clean, shaved engine bay is a MAJOR detail. I can understand how working on it makes you feel less ill.
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@ the Lambo Doors Motivational Poster.. (or maybe its more DE motivating than anything else
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you left out one key specification....
How many dead bodies can you hide under the hood in all that extra space now?
I LOVE the way it sounds, I never would have guessed it was a turbo 4 cyl from the video. Great looking car!!
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Sticky?? thanks for the lessons guys!
Project Anger build thread
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Ive always thought that there was something about the 84-86 300ZX tail lights that resembled a more modernized, almost "Transformers" version of the original 240 euro lights with the amber signals...
..but seeing your tail end, I KEEP thinking of challenger-style tail lights.. and that is VERY contrary to my typical tastes.. so take that how you will
I've seen it and thought that, and thought "that is NOT like me" about six times now, so I had to add my voice to that camp as well.