nbesheer

" So even if you are not taking it to the track, why spend more on drilled rotors?" They not necessarly have to be drilled but I don't mind spending a little bit more for better parts.

Well I will have someone watch me and then brake real hard. to see what locks up.

They are stock rims with stock lug nuts (aside from the lug locks) And were fine before i went to the brake place but also right after I crashed my car on that side but it didn't look like it hit the rim so I don't know what caused what.

I'm not sure if the backs lock up first/at all, I guess the fronts lock up beucase when they did my ass whipped around on the front wheels axis (Probably the wrong way to word it, but that's what happened)

Lol it was a "Free brake check" no work was done, I tried a while ago to rotate my tires but all I have is that little one armed 10" tire iron and I couldn't do anything so I can't really do anything eith out tools. and No I dind't check for a stick taped but i doubt it's there. And I just found my haynes manuel it will tell me the torque specs right ?

I have 4 lug wheels with one lug lock and they tightened up the 3 normal lugs all the way first, and then they did the lug lock, and now it feels like theres a stick taped to my tire and it goes thump thump thump which is dumb.

Okay so from what I gathered is drilled is "okay" in the back and I also heard that drilled and slotted rotors brake less is that true because maybe if they brake less then my wheels won't lock up (they did yesterday and I hit a wall) so now what, and while I'm at it should I put SS brake lines on now instead of later ?

Okay I started looking at other ones, "stock" replacment rear rotors at MSA are $50 a piece so that's $100 + Pads which is like maybe 140 from what I have seen. Now I prefer to have better rotors which from what I just read is slotted, I don't need bling so when looking at brake sites what do I look for ? Rotor size I don't know all the information on mine so I don't know what to look for for replacments.

Alright, so most of that $150 is labor right. Beucaes I'm sure I can buy new pads and change them my self. So i should just remove the rotors and take them to a shop to have them resurfaced ?

What do you mean by cut ?

Well my back brakes are squeeking. I went to a brake shop and they said to put new pads + resurface the rotors it's going to be ~$150.00. But at MSA I can get new drilled/slotted rotors for $200.00 and then brake pads are like 30 bucks or so so that's an extra 80 bucks for all new parts. Should I go for that, are there other shops that sell bolt on drilled/slotted rotors for less? EDIT: i made a signature saying what car I have but it's a 1983 280ZX N/A

How much was it to get powercoated ? And can I go to a junkyard and snag a valve cover and have that coated (will any L6 valve cover work ? Turbo or not ?), then switch them out. I drive my car every day so I can't have down time.

Well I think I am going to take it off, but still keep it. i've kept everything i replaced worth replacing might as well keep this too.

Mike it is the Y shaped thing in the middle of the valve cover. http://dcerutti.smugmug.com/photos/87164462-M.jpg So after running my car for a bit I should turn it off and check to see if it is blowing air and if it is not is it safe to remove it ? I run a lol bone stock NA, well with a CAI so go ahead and make fun of me for that haha. if that sways the descision at all. And I am in Southern California too.

I have this fan thing stuf to the side of my engine that i guess blows air over the intake manifold(?) but it doesn't run at Ide/1k/2k/3k/4k RPM so i don't think it even works so should I see about replacing it or just removing it because I see people on here with out it.

Well at least it wont rust lol. Also i went at it again made the area twice as big. and noticed that the drill with the wire wheel doesn't work too well. but now I got a nice square shiny spot. So I was thinking if I take the cover off and get it sand blasted at work what would I need to do that. Just a new gasket or is there stuff I need to take out of the cover before I put it back on ? (also I don't know anything about engines and little about cars) so should I be able to do it ?

Auctually I guess it's the valve cover. I thought it was the head which is why I came up with goofy search results. so I guess that I need coat it with "Cast Siver" from what I read here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87382&highlight=polish+valve+cover Okay so my engine is ugly looking, kinda has a yellowish hue to it. So I decided to go at a portion (1"x2") with a brass wire wheel on my drill. Well it tok that color off but it seems to be like a coating so I don't know if I should have taken it off. And after the wire wheel I went at it with a dremel with a small plastic(?) wheel, then after that I went at it with a cloth wheel and some Columbian White Rouge Compound and now it looks REALLY good well better then before... it's not chrome but I don't want it chrome. So tell me did I start diging the grave for my head as I think it will start rusting now Also I searched but just came up with port/polish the Inside of the head which didn't help. And this might be the wrong forum section.

Mine looks like that too from jacks, but I don't know where else to put them and the front of the car jsut pushes the ramps out of the way lol.

I'm in the same boat with you (83 280ZX) but everyone tells me "reverse synchro's with 1st" and that doesn't help me beucase litterally it's not expained more then that. but yeah sometimes even when I go 1st to R it grinds, or when I move the stick from N all the way to the right (not even a gear) it grinds.

Wow 280ZForce That's exactly what I want to do with mine, different car (280ZX but still) same interior color as I have with red racing seats and that wheel (well the one at MSA I saw) and I was worried it wouldn't look good but not any more.

Okay Kragen has this http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=NGK&mfrpartnumber=7133&parttype=960&ptset=A And this http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=NGK&mfrpartnumber=6261&parttype=960&ptset=A I'm not sure what V-Power means, but ya'll said cheep NGK's work the best, and these are both $1.99 They also have Platnium And Iridium which I don't mind paying for if they will work better. EDIT: I just replaced the Fuel Filter, and the Fuel lines (rubber ones) which were cracked. THe fuel came out black which I doubt is good. So that's 2 down, I will drive it till next paycheck, hopefully it will be better. EDIT: I also just replaced the spark plugs with BPR6EY-11 and I noticed that all 6 of My Bosch Plat +4 are burnt and black and I've only had them for about 9,000 miles is that normal. I will get a picture on here later when I get access to a camera.

On my 280ZX Which is FI I have an Evap canister if that helps at all.

Can't you just go to costco and have them do it is what I'm asking. I just don't know how much it costs.

If it's condensation I heard if you use Nitrogen ? It won't have condensation and stay the same pressure hot or cold. Not sure about that though. How much does it cost to get nitrogen ?

So would the KYB Gas shocks with Tockio 1" lowering spings be a better alternative for a smoother ride on my daily driver ?