nbesheer

I know this isn't a Z car or any kind of car but I'm sure you guys would know a thing or two about this. A friend has a 19XX Honda Odyssey FL250 that we can't seem to get started. Needs new gas, but can't get the gas cap off, anyways once we solve that I'm up a creek. I haven't rebuilt a 2 stroke since high school and I can't find much information about rebuilding it or the carb. So any help would be really awesome. Sorry if this is in the wrong forum. and no I didn't search.

lol that red car on the forklift reminds me of a delorean or something. I wish I had cool pictures for my s130 I will when the camera finds it's charger for me.

What does the V mean ? (sorry dumb question)

Well the bearing was spinning on the axle thing. so got new bearings ($8.00 for inners $9 for outers) not bad at all although my dad did have to pay for them, replaced the races I didn't even know those came out I thought it was part of the hub. all should be fine and dandy tomorrow when i put them all back in.

What's wrong with good old nissan oil filters ?

Is That Goo like grease or soemthing ? I will probably end up putting the shim on the other side so i don't have pieces lying around. EDIT: I ended up not using the shim as it would not fit on either side with out modification so I used some brake grease stuff on them. and for some reason the pads were bright red, makes me want to get my calipers powdercoated red.

On that link in the first post it doesn't have 1983 280zx would an 82zx FSM work for me, because I know that even my haynes doesn't have much for 83 models. thanks

It doesn't even need to be thin in my case, the bearing have about half and inch of space behind it which makes me wonder if it is a size too small maybe ? I guess I would have to take the other side out and replace it.

I know i'm triple posting but I got to another hang up. On the fron't right side the Inner wheel bearing is stuck to the mini axle (stub axle ?) and I can not get it off do I need one of those puller things that looks like a claw, I know on the other side it was stuck in the hub(?) any suggestions.

yeah the shim doesn't have a cut in it but everything fits perfectly with out the shim. also my front brakes only had shims on the outer side not both.

So I got new raybestos brake pads for the front and every thing is the same as the old ones but on the front outer brake pads it has a hump on it which prevents me from using the little nissan brake shim thing on it, BUT the hump fits perfectly in the recess of the caliper, is it safe to use the brakes with out that brake shim ?

Okay I am a bit stuck now. The haynes manuel says to remove the front inner wheel bearing to 9. On the rear side of the hub, use a screwdriver to pry out the inner bearing grease. As this is done, note the direction in which the seal is installed. (Did they typo grease with seal ?) And if they do mean seal there is a maybe .5cm tall rubber seal thing but it's super hard and barely flexs so I'm afraid if I pry it out it will break. Then it says to hit the bearing races (is that the bearing ?) with a brass bar to get it out but in the diagram they still have that rubber seal on it. I'm really confused on what it's asking for. EDIT: I got the bearing out as well as the seal thing so that's no concern anymore but still need help witht hat grease is it okay ? Also I have Valvoline Semi-Synthetic Dura Blend Grease will this work as I can't afford more stuff and my dad allready has this

if my current bearings are not shot is it still possible to reuse then because there is no way I can afford new bearings at this point in time. kragen puts them at 15 ish for each so thats $60

I do not have a grease packer but my dad said you put greease on your hand you like scoop it up into the bearing, hard to explain with out hand motions. is it absolutly neccesary to have a packer ? how much do they cost ?

Yes I've searched but i mostly got information on greese. So anyways I'm going to do my front brakes today and I figured I might as well repack my wheel bearings upon looking at my haynes manuel it seems like a very lenghty project for someone whos not don't anything like that before. What do you guys think the time frame is for this ? and in the manuel it says to discard the cotter pin and put a new one, is that really neccesary or can I use the old one. I have no idea what a cotter pin is so I don't know if I have a replacement which is why. THanks for the help.

I'm curious as to how much it would cost to get the one you had reproduced, I'm sure you could find buyers for it. Anyways did you get your header and intake to fit yet ?

BTW for me this cleared up a lot of things that I didn't quite get from the sticky. Thanks.

I do plan on wearing it right all the time

With out having actually seen a roll bar like the one sold as MSA, they sit behind the seat in non head hitting areas right ?

Well then roll bar it is Thanks again.

And also will padding on the bars be sufficient protection if you hit your head on them with no helmet ?

I'm sorry yes w/e is what ever. I'm trying my best not to do abbreviations

Okay I was originaly planing on getting a SCCA roll Bar from MSA. The only reason I didn't want a cage is because I heard it can be just as deadly if you hit your head on the steel but There is padding for the bars right that would make it about as hard as hitting the dash bord I would assume. So is it possible to make a cage in a S130 that still allows for the t-tops to function and also is suitable for a DD. And can be built with the car intact. ie no cutting roof off or what ever. for you guys posting "use the search" ill post that for oyu. "Search button is over there :points:" "next time try searching" "if you use that thing called searching you might get answers" Anyways I've searched and I came up with this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119381&highlight=t-tops+roll+cage But that is for a 300ZX meanwhile I have a 83 280ZX and was hoping it would work for me as well. (I searched for roll cage t tops/t-tops roll cage/roll cage) and didn't get anything significant which is why I'm posting.

That's cheeper then what I paid for mine :|

Okay don't laugh if I'm wrong. but my dad tells me if I start to over heat to turn the heater on full blast, and it will cool the car a little bit (not much) but maybe just enough so you don't over heat while your at a light (if that's what your talkign about anyways) I know it's not ideal but neither are Antec tricools.