Milenko2121

I spent a long time understanding electrical systems and cars thanks to Z's. The 300zx ECU swap fo the L28ET was my biggest learning moment yet, and the confusion was due to mixed info online or across different diagrams. This pinout sheet was built for my 1987 300zx Turbo ECU (a18-682 m92 California Manual). I used it to build my own harness. "CC" is Check Connector, some form of OBD1, but I can't find much information on the Z31 usage. Everything seems biased towards the Z32. In regards to the California spec ecu, I've only been able to find a wiring difference with the 1988-1989 ECU's which also use High Impedance injectors compared to low impedance from 1987 and lower. The '88 ECU adds Exhaust Gas Temp sensor wired to Pin 30 instead of Pin 30 going to the MAF. It also adds the ability to use the Automatic transmission version Throttle Position sensor + switch combo wired to Pin 110. Hopefully this is able to help anyone doing this swap in the future. I've added a photo below to see a preview before downloading the PDF. I added the PDF because my images were being compressed and it was hard to read. 87 Turbo Z31 Wiring Diagram.pdf

I'm looking for a late year Z31 T25 with the T3 flange. I'll take any condition as long as it is rebuildable.

I'm in the process of remaking my harness and I've been able to find the first two 20pin and 16pin plugs, but the last 15 pin plug that triggers the injectors, I am unable to find a part number or source it anywhere. Anyone have ideas on where to grab this plug? For anyone curious about the 16pin and 20pin, here are the part numbers. 16 Pin plug TE 172852-2 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=OM%2f29n0kh%2bpjA79D5WtH%2bw%3d%3d Locking Plate for 16 Pin TE 172853-1 (2 needed) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/172853-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv%2bkWzvOmGqmo1EXAWppvwZ 20 pin Plug TE 172850-2 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/172850-2?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmVkeGl%2fGZ2giB%2bmk8MEQZE%3d Locking Plate for 20 Pin TE 172851-1 (2 needed) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/172851-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AHc5Pn%2fxko1kE5%2f%2fQuFlA9I%3d Pins for both https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-170291-1-Cut-Strip?qs=FDnCCYJUPfjaQIxYl2etIg%3D%3D

topic can be closed I found what I needed!

sent you a PM

Were you able to test the to see if the valve would open at all even not connected to manifold or are the part numbers the same for the aac valve?

I currently use an '82 280zx Turbo harness, but I am in the process of building my own custom harness that's a lot less bulky.

After a couple years of not having a smooth idle, you think a different way. Sent an email to you for some pictures of the unit.

I plan to adapt that assembly to my L28 by using the EGR block off plate and use it to control my idle with my '87 T 300zx ecu. If I could figure out of the 300zx ecu can control other AAC valves which is all I need. The FSM states it uses a 160hz signal. What was it about the 84 compared to 88 that was incompatible?

Looking for a L28 in Vegas that has some life left in it to throw into my Z.

Here's the only photo I've been able to find of the assembly.

I could not say, never visually tested the full travel of suspension. I haven't felt a bind myself.

Yeah, that's how I installed them. Still working pretty well. Just tracked them in January and felt great. Tight course meant for gokarts.

I haven't dropped the pan yet, but I did take a stethoscope to the motor and the noise sounds like something hitting the valve cover above cylinder 1. My timing chain had a decent amount of slack on the side opposite of tensioner, but I don't know how much is excessive, I could get a lot of deflection out of it(did not test to see if I could pull chain above sprocket, but will later) Oil pressure at track (from what I paid attention to) was normal, and it was the normal at idle and driving it home. As for rod knock, isn't a test for this to pull your plugs in pairs and see if the noise changes and if it doesn't, it's not the rods?

I tried different washers and I got the copper crush washers(flat on one side, arched on other), no leaks ever since.