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Ryanotown22

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About Ryanotown22

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    Az
  1. I just measured the ohms in my injectors and it came out to about 4.0 so I have low impedance injectors
  2. @Shiboh I forgot to ask did you buy resistor style spark plugs? I did as part of this I bought bpr6es-11 supposedly they cut down on electrical interference that might help possibly and it is part of the recommendations in the instructions
  3. With the ez efi system you really need your car in good working order before you install it. The system will not fix issues such as vacuum leaks exhaust leaks, bad grounds and power, bad fuel pressure, leaky injectors and on and on. I would never attempt an install on a car that’s not in good shape. The values the sensors get need to be stable and valid. Also you can have electrical interference that can throw off the system if you run wires parallel with spark plug wires and near ignition coil wires. There was one other thing I did that really helped stabilize my system was my timing on my car was way too advanced and it would not hold a steady idle I backed it down to about 10 degrees btdc. I also went over all my intake and exhaust nuts all my exhaust connections and my a/f bung to make sure the sensor was tight also made sure it didn’t get gunked up from too rich soot on it. Double check all vacuum line connections etc etc. I am not an advocate for the system I think there are a lot of downfalls but on my car it does work and seems to work well. I got about 50-60 miles on it now and haven’t had an issue other than the initial very first setup but once idle was stable everything seemed to be stable. Saying that I would buy the system again because it suits my needs. I am guessing there are cases that the system struggles to self learn with but I would assume that is when there are outside symptoms that it just can’t resolve.
  4. Supposedly stabilized in around 50 miles but if you have bad “learned” values it will not work right and potentially only get worse that’s why I suggested a reset with the wizard. There is a way to totally reset it by doing the wizard 3 times in a row or something but not sure exactly that process. I agree the lack of documentation is not great and there is generally no documentation for something other than a v8. I did a lot of cross referencing with other self learning systems to fully understand this system. I am also not sure of the warranty on this system or how that would work if the ecu stops working since it is bought from a 3rd party. I would assume it’s covered from FAST but I have no registration info or anything other than the serial on the ecu
  5. That is odd but I had that same sort of thing happening at idle but not while driving. What I did to fix my idle surging all over was go through the wizard again and start over. It’s either going through a cycle of adding too much fuel then not enough or too much air then not enough or a combination of both. What is your idle speed set at maybe try 900 rpm just as something to try.
  6. Excuse my ignorance of the mega squirt I haven’t fully researched it but can’t you do fuel system only just like the ez efi? That way you do not need to have the distributor
  7. @tokuzumi it really depends on your goals and expectations. If you want a set it and forget it type system that you have limited control of and are fine with that the ez efi will work. If you want to data log and control every little input into the system you will be let down with ez efi. Also if you go with mega squirt you can control ignition that might be important to you. It also depends on your level of how much you want to learn and have the time to learn to install and configure mega squirt . For the ez efi I could have been up and running in maybe 3-4 hours from the time I opened the box to the time my car was driving. (Add more time if you need a bung welded in your exhaust) Another plus of mega squirt is you have a ton of people using it and actively contributing on forums. With the ez efi there is very very few resources online for the Datsun setup with this thread probably having the most details. I personally have not really had issues aside from a bad temp sensor but that could happen to anyone but I also still am in the learning phase and feel like I need a lot more time driving to give all my feelings but so far it has been a good system. Again my system has stock barbed injectors for a 78 280z. My own personal goal was just to get rid of the old equipment and put in a system that had easily replaceable parts and the ez efi system fit that for me.
  8. Update: new intake air temp sensor fixed my issue I picked up this one it’s cheap but so far it’s very stable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D52RD1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J7kgFbD074F8E
  9. According to the manual lb/hr data on the screen is “Current total fuel flow rate into the engine. Given in pounds per hour. This can be used to get a rough approximation of current engine power. Horsepower = Fuel Flow (lbs/hr) x 2” so if you see 60 that would be 120hp? I did see it flash 70 for a second so maybe it’s estimating car makes 140hp. based on that explanation I don’t think that data is really meaningful
  10. @ShibohWhere do you see we are pushing 60 at WOT? (Edit I see the lb/hr on my video not sure going to research that. )As a side note my intake air temp sensor broke when I drive the temp moves all over the place at first I thought it was the wiring so I ordered a new connector and pigtail but it wasn’t that. When I shake the sensor it kind of rattles and the temp fluctuates all over the place so I guess I need to order another one. Btw the air temp sensor is from 2002 Camaro if you search for it. Not sure what happened I was just driving and it went crazy on the drive. I followed this video for the TPS to be at .2 .3 but I think all that matters is that it’s above .0
  11. @Shiboh Here is a video from this morning going around a corner and up to about 60 sorry for the footage hard to hold and video, something happened to my temp sensor on the drive got to figure that one out but you can see when shifting or low load your AFR is going to be really low numbers that’s normal I had another aem AFR in my car before this and it’s the same thing your are adding a ton of gas into the car without any load it’s going to momentarily be super rich.
  12. @Shiboh Mine does not bog under acceleration but I had to have the accel value to negative 6 to get it to stop bogging. I would drive it around if you can . I will get a driving video up. My pvc system is still connected. One thing noticed is your air temp really fluctuates a lot more than mine. That can throw things off a bit. I wonder if your getting electric interference. Are you connected straight to battery positive and negative? Your battery value us a little on the low side is also why I am wondering you can see in my video I am at 14.1 volts at idle. On your warm video it looks really close to what my system is showing other than what I mentioned
  13. @Shiboh my need was all the way left until I turned my idle speed screw all the way in and left the IAC control the air. I am including two videos of one at startup and one after warmup let me know if you want to see anything else on video Cold (cold is not really that cold it’s Arizona in the summer yes it’s 116 in my garage) warm
  14. Also make sure you are calibrating it when all the way warmed up and maybe go through the wizard again after it’s already warm
  15. @Shiboh yes it is very steady AFR at idle fluctuates less than to maybe 13.5-14.5 when it’s warmed up but usually less than that even. I do not have my BCDD anymore maybe you have an air leak there. My IAC is in the green zone when warmed up. When it’s cold started it’s to the right of the green zone. Is your needle to the left or to the right of the green zone? I think left is too much air and right is too little air but that’s just a guess
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