Jump to content
HybridZ

Ryanotown22

Members
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Ryanotown22

  • Rank
    Moving Up

Profile Information

  • Location
    Az

Recent Profile Visitors

1457 profile views
  1. Is anyone still making these to sell? I can’t seem to find one to buy.
  2. Anyone have to shave down the caliper fins? I have 15x7 konig rewind and the fin on those calipers are rubbing. I have 1989 Toyota 4Runner v6 calipers nugeon 9701550A (97-01550A) and 9701550B (97-01550B). I have the spacer in from zcardepot for this swap also.
  3. Yeah I will gladly take the file I might be able to find someone nearby
  4. That center vent is exactly what I need. All I have right now is my duct squished into one of the vents coming from my vintage air. Any chance you would want to print another?
  5. I ran power direct from battery to a switch I picked up from the car parts store. Mounted the switch in the center console below the radio. Clean power that way
  6. Does the driveshaft work without any modifications?
  7. I just measured the ohms in my injectors and it came out to about 4.0 so I have low impedance injectors
  8. @Shiboh I forgot to ask did you buy resistor style spark plugs? I did as part of this I bought bpr6es-11 supposedly they cut down on electrical interference that might help possibly and it is part of the recommendations in the instructions
  9. With the ez efi system you really need your car in good working order before you install it. The system will not fix issues such as vacuum leaks exhaust leaks, bad grounds and power, bad fuel pressure, leaky injectors and on and on. I would never attempt an install on a car that’s not in good shape. The values the sensors get need to be stable and valid. Also you can have electrical interference that can throw off the system if you run wires parallel with spark plug wires and near ignition coil wires. There was one other thing I did that really helped stabilize my system was my timing on m
  10. Supposedly stabilized in around 50 miles but if you have bad “learned” values it will not work right and potentially only get worse that’s why I suggested a reset with the wizard. There is a way to totally reset it by doing the wizard 3 times in a row or something but not sure exactly that process. I agree the lack of documentation is not great and there is generally no documentation for something other than a v8. I did a lot of cross referencing with other self learning systems to fully understand this system. I am also not sure of the warranty on this system or how that would work if the
  11. That is odd but I had that same sort of thing happening at idle but not while driving. What I did to fix my idle surging all over was go through the wizard again and start over. It’s either going through a cycle of adding too much fuel then not enough or too much air then not enough or a combination of both. What is your idle speed set at maybe try 900 rpm just as something to try.
  12. Excuse my ignorance of the mega squirt I haven’t fully researched it but can’t you do fuel system only just like the ez efi? That way you do not need to have the distributor
  13. @tokuzumi it really depends on your goals and expectations. If you want a set it and forget it type system that you have limited control of and are fine with that the ez efi will work. If you want to data log and control every little input into the system you will be let down with ez efi. Also if you go with mega squirt you can control ignition that might be important to you. It also depends on your level of how much you want to learn and have the time to learn to install and configure mega squirt . For the ez efi I could have been up and running in maybe 3-4 hours from the time I opened
  14. Update: new intake air temp sensor fixed my issue I picked up this one it’s cheap but so far it’s very stable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D52RD1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J7kgFbD074F8E
  15. According to the manual lb/hr data on the screen is “Current total fuel flow rate into the engine. Given in pounds per hour. This can be used to get a rough approximation of current engine power. Horsepower = Fuel Flow (lbs/hr) x 2” so if you see 60 that would be 120hp? I did see it flash 70 for a second so maybe it’s estimating car makes 140hp. based on that explanation I don’t think that data is really meaningful
×
×
  • Create New...