Timecode
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Just wanted to share a fix to an issue I had. Car would get terribly lean when boost was ramping up, in my case 3800-4000 rpm. AFR's went to 19 for that moment, not good at 20+ psi!! I'm using the stock rail and had an Aeromotive FPR mounted to the passenger side front fender of the engine compartment, with 2.5 feet of vacuum tube to it. Took me a while to find the solution and it was in part due to a post I read, can't recall who it was, who had the same issue but never fixed it technically. He happened to replace his stock rail with a Perrin and it fixed his issue. All this got me thinking why Nissan put the FPR on the rail in the first place. I thought I needed a fuel damper but Nissan never used one originally, so....I moved the Aeromotive FPR back to the oem FPR location, and have a 8" vacuum line now. Now that it's there, acting as a damper as well (like Nissan intended), you can guess what happened, cars runs great now. Thought I'd share since I see so many people mounting it in the same place I did.
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Calm down boys, babies aren't dying here. I'll run the fancy bolt/washer. I'm so deep into this car anyway, whats an extra $20.
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I'll go with a new stock bolt and washer with some loctite and call it a day. Thank you all.
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By the posts I read here and on other Z forums, most of which are from the most experienced members this forums has. I have nowhere else to go to get better info than this place, other than maybe the OEM service manual and all the Z modify books we all know of. Going off the OEM service manual might be good for a stock car with the stock pulley but they might have completely changed the way they did things if the 280zxt was making 400 hp from the factory. With the power levels my car now makes, I'll gladly take the communities advice when it comes to higher HP Z's and emulate what works for them.
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OK, thanks for the tip. Has anyone here experienced issues revving to 7k and the OEM bolt backing out? My current OEM setup hasn't given me issues backing out, my concern is with my old damper, which I feel will explode soon. I'm guessing most who run an upgraded damper usually run the stronger bolt setup as well. I know the stronger bolt allows more torque so less chance of the bolt backing out but is the OEM torque specs also accounting for the crank snout thread strength as well? Rebello told me a new OEM bolt/washer works fine and they do 20+ engines a month the same way with no issues. Thread-lock companies say the bolt usually will break before the thread-lock gives way, hence my inquiry from others experiences. Typically, up to what size bolt needs heat to come loose without failure? I always use blue thread-lock but have little experience with red.
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I ordered the BHJ damper for my 1983 l28et. The damper bolt from the common Z vendors say for model years 80 and below. Some even have a spicific washer for 280zx vs other year Z's. I was under the impression they all shared the same bolt size/type and washer. Is a different setup needed for the later 280zx model? Also, I was planning on getting the Kameari bolt or Nismo but the stepped washer, possibly creating clamping issues, scares me. Flipping the washer around mimics the OEM setup, so.... I did look into the KA bolt and Volvo washer setup JeffP did but after talking with Rebello, deemed it unnecessary. I know red Loctite is recommended for the install. Has anyone tried removing their damper after applying this? I imagine getting the bolt up to the required 550F to remove it would do some damage to the damper itself, am I correct?
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I'm looking for a complete s15 helical lsd. Inculding the pumpkin and stubs.
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It is the same car. That was a intermitint tps fauilure causing the flames. Standalone is another can of worms that I can't tackle right now. I'll just keep the boost down and enjoy it. It's a hoot at 15#'s, so I'm good with this setup for now. Later down the road I'll get standalone or a new flash from JWT. Interstingly, my evo x runs in the 9-10 afr from the factory with no smoke as well. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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Dang! I never knew that about Torco. I will stop using it. I can tell you that the plugs do have a slight red- brown to them. It has a brand new o2, it didn't fix the issue.
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Some companies recommend different locations for their coolers. Mine is an 1"-2" in front of the rad. I can't get temps over 190 no matter how hard I try. I saw no increase in my water temp by adding the oil cooler so the location works, at least on our cars. On a side note, I was experiencing oil pressure drop on tight corners. I was going to get an accusump but thought that the cooler oil will let the oil maintain its viscosity and it did. Now there is almost no pressure drop.
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Chickenman, thanks for your patience and perseverance. When I found out that race gas did read richer, I thought that was it but, strangely, I notice the same AFR's with 91 pump as I do with my race mix. No major change that I can see.
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What am I not answering? Sound like all of this is upsetting you. I have a life outside of this forum so give me a little time to reply to all the questions.
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Fuel is 91 with Torco race additive. O2 is 10 " away, LC1 is 30" away. The gauge is not in lamda, its in AFR. Min is 10 max is 20 AFR. Fuel pressure is set correctly as stated before, 30 psi with vacuum 36 psi without.
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Of course it could run even stronger, but right now it scoots, I just want to lean out the tune which, hopefully will be done by fixing all known issues first. I'm on fuel delivery right now hence this whole thread. I don't want to blame JWT for a bad tune until I know all is well on my end. I sure hope my gauge readings are correct or this is going to be a pain. I did happen to replace the fuel pressure sensor and it is reading the same as the old unit. Precision Z verified my Wideband/gauge matches there test equipment so..... You guys rock by the way, I've been so busy lately I needed an army to help me with this.
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Its see's nothing but race gas and I'm sure I heat it up the sensor plenty. All plugs look the same, semi dark brown. I'll find a pic. I want to do the WOT plug cut as I hear this is the only true way of determining how the burn is. All the gauge info you said is correct, min is 10 AFR.
