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  1. Hello! First post here, was wondering what everyone used for their fuel setup on their stock tanks. I have a '79 280zx with a 5.3 (l28 saved for a 280z), stuck on what way to get the ls fuel pump to the stock 280zx pickup tube in the tank. Would there be any safety issue if I use a kit like the one pictured and just clamp send/return from the tank directly to the Corvette style regulator, or would that work just fine? Any info would be great, thanks!
  2. Greetings from Montana. This is my first post so let me know if it's helpful. So my '75 Z has been sitting in a garage since 2013 on account of the clutch pedal lost its pressure and the fuel system was all gunked up with rust. I went off to school so I had no time to work on it. I came home this summer and have been working on it for a month or so now when I can afford it and have the time and finally this weekend it should drive once again! I came to the conclusion that the priority would be the gas tank and fuel system. So I dove right into draining the gas and stripping the tan
  3. Hello everyone, i had a question regarding the sr20det swap into the s30 chassis more specifically a 280z. What needs to be done so that the egnine can get enough fuel for about 250-300 crank horsepower reiably? Getting a fuel cell isnt really an option since i plan to daily this car in the future. I was just curious what everyone else was using in terms of fueling in their ka/sr swaps.
  4. I am looking go find suggestions on diag for a fuel issue with my 1977 280z. It's as if all 6 injectors are clogged (though highly unlikely). I have fuel pressure at the rail but I was thinking that the BCM could be the most viable answer (not commanding the injectors to fire) I have spark at every cylinder new pump and filters. Seasoned S30 mechanics any suggestions?? I don't have a lot of diag experience and appreciate any input (except the negative BS).
  5. This is my first carburetor car and I am still getting rid of the intake and exhaust leak from the rear cylinders with a gasket I ordered. My issue now is the car runs fine at idle, but the second you take it down the road and try to get it moving the carbs seems to run out of fuel inside the bowl. My 260z has a filter athe bottom of the tank to electric pump, up the body to the engine bay into large cannister filter to vacuum mechanical fuel pump to dual Weber carbs. The 3-5 psi required by carbs I easy for the newish pump under the car now. I am thinking that the mechanical fuel pump cannist
  6. Got some gas bummed off me at the station. Sufficiently distracted, I drove off with the cap on the spoiler. Sucks to loose it after owning the car for four and a half years. I was doing so good. Needs to fit a '70. It doesn't need to be the "correct" one. I can handle the shipping by emailing the seller a FedEx label if desired. I get it the fastest/cheapest that way. I'll need box dimensions, weight and an address. PayPal would be nice, but I'll mail a check if I have to. Thanks! -Gonna chain the next one down...
  7. I was wondering if someone could tell me how to test my fuel pump relay with a multimeter? I was driving last night and my car started sputtering and running really lean and eventually just died. It would start and idle choppy until i pressed on the gas killing it. This morning when I went to go call a tow I noticed that it now only starts and immediately dies afterwards even with a jump.
  8. 406-LS1-280Z

    Cured gas tank

    From the album: The Restoration

    After I had got rid of rust and applied liner
  9. 406-LS1-280Z

    Rusted filter

    From the album: The Restoration

  10. Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btd
  11. I'm experiencing a slight rich issue and need the groups help. Its an l28et running a JWT 550 kit in a 71 240z. Using the stock l28et fuel rail, Aeromotive FPR with psi gauge, upgraded to bigger fuel line (still using the oem return line), and an unknown in tank pump. Prior owner says its a 300zx turbo pump, but I have yet to drop the tank. I have seen it go to 65 psi with no pressure drop at all. 11.5 AFR until boost crosses the 10 psi mark, then fuel pressure shoots up 5 psi too much (relative to boost )and stays that way. At idle, fuel psi is correct. Cruising, it's correct. The p
  12. I just bought a 1975 Datusn 280z and i drove it home. It ran well beside the exhaust leak that i will be attempting to fix in the future. I took off the front and rear bumpers first thing. I had to remove the gas tank to remove the rear bumper shocks. After reinstalling the tank, i put some gas in for a total of around 3 gallons. The engine took a while to start and ran kind of crappy so i thought it might need more fuel so i put 2.5 gallons more in. It started and idled fine so i figured it i would drive to gas station to fill up. less than a 1/4 mile from house it started cutting out on me.
  13. I obtained a pre...umm, "hybridized"? '75 280z fairly recently and, having swapped the tranny and done a bunch of other stuff, I'm now trying to tackle a fuel starvation issue. The previous owner installed a very generic Mr. Gasket 12S fuel pump in the engine bay (apparently 4-7 PSI.) This has caused me some fuel starvation and vaporlock issues. The stock mechanical pump on my engine (1970 SBC 350) is apparently not an option, both per the JTR conversion manual, as well as my own experimentation. What have you folks used in the way of fuel pumps? The JTR manual says to mou
  14. Guys, I'm still trying to get to my first drive after a long build. Last week I had an electrical issue that a few of you posted replies, and "rsicard" identified the issue. Thanks to everyone. So now electrical issues are behind me, I think. And I'm having a fuel delivery issue. The stock '77 280Z fuel pump is supposed to be good enough for TPI according to the JTR EFI book, but if I read between the lines I think it is marginal. No matter, my stock pump developed a slight leak between the halves of the fuel pump body, so a few weeks ago, I replaced it with a new 280Z pump "
  15. Hi guys, here's where I'm at- I'm trying to get underway on a v8 swap into my '73 240z. Car will be for street use/getting into trouble- nothing serious like autoX/track/drag. My plans are as follows: Chevy 350 engine 650cfm vac secondary carb MSD 6al ign Camaro t5 trans Custom driveshaft JTR engine/trans mounting kit JTR headers (maybe) Custom exhaust Upgraded fuel pump OEM radiator from v8 car I have been doing a ton of reading and already ordered the JTR manual but still have a few logistical questions. I found a good candidate for a motor, BU
  16. Hi Everyone, I read many posts in the archives and lots of Google searches but I would love your advice on my specific case. I have a '78 unrestored 280Z that used to run like a charm and I'm not getting rough startup and probably heat problems? I am pretty noobish with mechanic (learning from 0) so bare with me. Symptoms: A vast majority of the time, the car will 'cough' a lot at startup and runs rough for about 5 to 10 seconds. I'm usually flooring it for a split second during ignition to avoid stalling and then gently rev til the engine runs smoother. I feel like the
  17. Hello all! I know this is a lot to read, but I am trying to be thorough and give as much info as possible. If you don’t want to read it all, you can skip to the last few sections and get the general idea of my current issue that I need help with. Thanks in advance! First, a little about me/the car: I have worked on cars for about 13 years now. I don’t consider myself a pro, but I consider myself fairly knowledgeable when it comes to cars. I have rebuild motors, help friends restore cars, done motor swaps, and do all my own maintenance. However, I know that every car is d
  18. Hey guys, I was searching the internet far and wide trying to find a figure for dead times on my injectors and I found a cool website that other people will probably find useful. http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html These are probably not going to be exactly the same as your injectors, so if you're feeling adventurous you can measure your actual individual injector dead times using this page here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/injdeadtime.html Hope this helps somebody.
  19. I'm rebuilding an l28et and noticed this injector looks off. At least the cap is missing, maybe more. Is it toast? I can't find anything to reference what it should look like without the cap. Thanks in advance. And a different injector for reference:
  20. Hi im new to this forum but just the other day I got my first 280z. When I bought the car I knew it would be a project but I thought mechanically there was nothing wrong the previous owner swapped a new l28e and a new 5speed with 50k on both. With that being said I was doing a speed run the other day and after taking my z to 100 the power curve seemed shaky like after 80mph I would get bursts of highter power and then a lull of power. Now the problem hasgotten much worse, when I get upto 4000rpm it feels like the car is fuel cutting and randomly while I drive I just get what feels like complet
  21. Hello everyone, I recently took the engine out of my 280ZX to repaint the engine bay and replace some parts on the engine. I have the engine placed back in the car and the starter is working. It sounds like it wants to start when I put starter fluid in throttle body and I am getting fuel pressure before the pressure regulator on the fuel rail. I am not getting any fuel pressure on the other side though. Is there anything I can do or do I have to just replace the regulator.
  22. Started to get a loss of fuel stall at high rpm with full throttle 3 weeks ago and assumed mechanical pump was going bad. I've been out of country for 2 weeks so when I returned I replace the fuel pump and get no fire at all. There is at least 3 gal in the tank and I have cleared all the lines but when I crank it over there's no fuel flowing into the filter and when I pulled the fuel line from the carb and crank I get no fuel as well. Grabbed the old pump and she work just fine by hand pump as well??? Why can't I pull fuel from the tank? Is it possible the cam lobe to actuate the pump l
  23. Hi everyone, I've been trying to get my car working properly again and it keeps giving me trouble. I think the source of this is the fuel line i'm using from the tank outlet to the fuel pump inlet. It's carburetor hose since it's on the non-pressurized side of the system, but it's very soft/malliable and kinks very easily. I think this is what's causing my car to not get enough fuel while driving. I can't find the OEM Nissan hose anywhere, and I can't find 7/16 fuel injection rated hose anywhere either. Does anyone know where I can get either of those? I'd like to get my car runnin
  24. Hey everyone, I've got a 1976 S30. It's effectively stock as far as the EFI system goes, all I've done is change the plug wire connectors for the injectors and I've replaced the fuel send lines with new hose. Of course I also put a new filter on it after I got it as well. During the summer, it started having an issue where it would randomly lose engine power entirely for brief moments- a number of seconds, really. Then it would pick back up and drive normally. I thought it was just crud working its way through the lines from the gas tank and I wasn't too concerned about it. Shiftin
  25. Hi Guys, I'm still pretty new to the forum but I wanted to start contributing right away! I just bought a 1975 280z that had been sitting for over 10 years and was the victim of seized fuel injectors. There are a couple of options on how to handle the situation, one would be to replace the old injectors with new ones. Thats a solid choice but oem injectors will set you back $350+. Another option would be to buy refurbished injectors. Again, that's a fine option, but since fuel injectors are sealed units that cannot be opened, all you are really buying are old injectors that have been cleaned.
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