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Showing results for tags 'lean'.
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Just wanted to share a fix to an issue I had. Car would get terribly lean when boost was ramping up, in my case 3800-4000 rpm. AFR's went to 19 for that moment, not good at 20+ psi!! I'm using the stock rail and had an Aeromotive FPR mounted to the passenger side front fender of the engine compartment, with 2.5 feet of vacuum tube to it. Took me a while to find the solution and it was in part due to a post I read, can't recall who it was, who had the same issue but never fixed it technically. He happened to replace his stock rail with a Perrin and it fixed his issue. All this got me
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OK, So heres what im dealing with right now. My rb20 is having some weird issues running, Idle is good at a 14.7 AFR but under load/driving is where I get problems. Upon initial acceleration or low rpm`s the engine has little power and runs like its missing a cylinder or two with afr`s dipping into the 10`s then as boost comes on it runs normal for a bit like it should with afr`s towards 12-13`s and as the rpm`s raise and I hit full boost it will sputter and pop as it leans all the way out untill my wideband cant go any higher (18+ afr`s). So far I have checked everything manually and also thr
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Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea
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I've been doing some tuning of my Mikuni 44 set up as of late with the assistance of a wide band o2 sensor, and I have learned a few things that may be helpful to some others. Generally, I recommend determining these in the order listed: Pilot Screws: One bit from Honsowetz in the How to Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine which is a very specific instruction: run your pilot screws 1.5 turns out. I have mine set at 1.5 dead on, and the engine likes the 57.5 pilots at that setting. AFRs are where they should be for idle and low speed operation. The engine runs well in both of these
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Hi im new to this forum but just the other day I got my first 280z. When I bought the car I knew it would be a project but I thought mechanically there was nothing wrong the previous owner swapped a new l28e and a new 5speed with 50k on both. With that being said I was doing a speed run the other day and after taking my z to 100 the power curve seemed shaky like after 80mph I would get bursts of highter power and then a lull of power. Now the problem hasgotten much worse, when I get upto 4000rpm it feels like the car is fuel cutting and randomly while I drive I just get what feels like complet