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I had to find a new exhaust guy so it's taking a while. Dropping it off on the 22. Here's what I got so far. ^ I will end up just cutting a small slant on the end of for a tip. I have V bands for the whole thing. Everything is T304, well that's what all the companies listed them as so we will see in time.

Just want to let people know about my experience with Sunrise Z in Burbank, CA. I had them perform a lot of work and the results were not impressive. I just want to give people a slight understanding of how this shop conducts business. I came in with my 71 turbo 240z. I blew my Felpro head gasket and broke the datsun 5 speed in the first month of owning the car. When I bought it, It wasn't running well until I started fixing things and as it made more power things started breaking. I went to Sunrise Z because of good reviews online from forums and Yelp. First thing I said to Art (the owner) was to take his time and do it right. Money was not a concern ever, just a good job. Things needing repair: Transmission- Fixed with a 240sx trans conversion. Brakes/Ebrake- replaced front calipers and E brake Head gasket- new 2mm MLS Trans swap went ok. Its leaking a tinny bit under the car. He charged me for Royal Purple but no royal purple is in my trans. It was leaking standard trans oil. They told me Royal Purple turns that same color after use. After 300 miles!! Called R.P. and they say it only goes darker never lighter. I never did like R.P. much so I guess thats a good thing. This leak was never fixed. When I noticed it I had already decided not to bring the car back to them. He charged me $250 for two used front hubs! Had to pay because I couldn't find any for sell at the time. Months later I found some for $20 each. The brake caliper looked good from the outside but on the inside it had rust all over the finish. He charged me for a new one. It doesn't effect performance but still sucks. I didn't even bother telling them about it. When I first picked up the car the new wheel studs they used on the front were half way threaded into the lug nuts. Seriously? This is a 450hp track/road car. Had to leave it there again. Charged me for custom brackets to make the e brake cable work with the 240sx disc brakes. Finally got the car home and OH NO! e-brake wasn't working. Looked under the car and nothings hooked up. Not even close to working. When they fixed the head gasket they used regular nuts and lock washers on the exhaust manifold. This leaked within 100 miles. Brought it back to them and after fighting with them to cover the repair, at no charge, they tried to fixed it. They planed the manifold (they should have checked it the first time) and 40 miles later another exhaust manifold leak. Called Art and he would not cover it this time. Said he did all he could and my cars to blame. He wanted me to pay half the cost of the repair. I said hell no this should be warrantied, he did not concur. He also charged me $70 in Royal Purple oil, filter, zinc additive, which was never done. I thought they used the same filter as me so I never noticed until I got it home and the oil was not purple. Went to Precision Z and they pointed out the exhaust nuts and said I need exhaust nuts with the flare on them, no washer. With Art, I never received a written estimate for anything. I filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. BBB rep said I could get ALL my money back (if he has the money) because of the lack of proper paper work from Arts end. I had Precision Z fix it and decided to just ask for the cost of the repair instead of all my money, not even the oil charges. Im not a dick and Art is a nice guy he just wasn't thorough enough. I have more complaints but this is getting very long. I haven't driven it lately so who knows what else will go wrong. What did I learn? Art was a little cheaper than other shops but I went there based on reviews. As all this went down another guy recently posted on yelp of major issues with Sunrise Z as well. I contacted him and he told me his horror story which was worse than mine. I even saw his car there. They couldn't get Megasquirt to work on his l28et for months and months. He got it fixed in ONE DAY somewhere else. Just checked Yelp and his post is gone. I don't know how that works but that sucks. Whats the point of posting a review if it can just be deleted if its negative? His shop was really disorganized and that should've been the the red flag. Precision Z was like a museum compared to Sunrise z. There work is top notch. Little pricey but worth it. So do your home work, check out the place prior, and get everything in writing. Hope one day this post helps someone pick a quality shop. Plus nobody is going to be deleting this just because its a bad review. Drive safe my friends and don't believe the hype. I really hope Art reads this and learns something.

I had a small coolant leak in the same place. Then one day the battery wasn't charging. Found out the leaking coolant corroded the power wire, under the dash, that goes from the alt to the gauge then to the battery. My alternators output is 16v but my voltage gauge reads 14.2 now. I just ran a new 10 awg wire with a fuse.

Thanks for the replies. I just received all the pieces to get the exhaust done (v bands, etc...). Still undecided on the muffler setup. Either I'll run a race cat or a oval Borla muffler under the driveshaft eventually. Im thinking no muffler in the rear. If anybody has done this or has input please speak.

Dan Austin I was considering running a cat instead of a muffler. Was it acceptable on the street with just the cat( sound wise)? I'm guessing the cat would muffle the exhaust note the same as a muffler. Increase back preasure = less noise

Thanks for the video's but I'm more looking to see how loud it would be with no mufflers or silencers at all. I have a 2.5" exhaust with one cheapo muffler in the back and it's not loud at all.

I have a 240z with a l28et and a t3/t4 at 14psi. I'm soon getting a full mandrel 3" SS from the turbo back and was wondering if I even need to bother putting a muffler on it. Im concerned about how loud it would be without a muffler. Seems to me that there isn't a big difference in this applicattion being its a turbo l6. Any thoughts. This is not my daily driver.

As I understand lock washers are no good at the heat range those parts see.

Thanks for the response guys. I'm leaning toward stuff like this. I like the twin tip but want to see how bigger tips would like on the 240z. #2 is a S2000 but the pipe size is right. Examples:

No body?

Does anyone with a turbo blanket notice faster turbo wear over time? Some people say it does some say it doesn't. I'd like to hear from the horses mouth.

I'd like to see some pics of people's heat shields on their turbo setups and find out how well they work. I have a 71 z with a l28et. T3/T4, stock intake/exhaust manifold, and 3" exhaust (heat shields examples with a similar setup would help a bunch. Im more interested in the sheet metal type shields but any opinions/experience on coatings and wraps would help as well. Any custom shielding for brake/ fuel lines would be appreciated as well. Thanks TC

I'm going to start this project soon and would love to see more setups. I know there out there.

Hi everyone, I am getting a custom 3" exhaust for my s30 and would like to see what tips people are running. Im leaning toward vertical twin tip look but open to all options. Any pics from the engine/turbo back would help as well. Thanks TC

Roger, I looked at a lot of gauge options and Speedhut's are the best I've seen. The rb trans has an electronic signal that can go straight to most aftermarket speedometers. The Speedhut speedometer is either GPS or signal based but not both. You have to pick one or the other. If you have a electronic speed signal then get the non-gps unit. Plus side on the GPS unit is it can give you 0-60, 1/4 mile, etc.. and any changes to your car (tire/wheel size,rear end ratio) the speed reading will almost be perfect but it takes a few minutes to find a satellite. Non gps would work like a factory gauge. Go to the web site and check them out. They are a bit expensive but if you wait for them to go on sale it makes it worth it. Plus they are REALLY made in the USA. The problem with this country is we keep outsourcing instead of purchasing products from companies on our own soil. They were also really friendly to work with. I couldn't decide to go silver or black bezels for the speedo and tach. When I placed my order I asked them to throw in the silvers for free not expecting them to do it. They did. A+++ TC

bump

Thanks for the info. I'm looking for one a bit closer to home.

I'm looking for the basic LC-1 kit which includes the LC-1, sensor, cd which includes software and manuals, bung, and a serial cable to connect to the PC. I have the gauge already. PM or text 805-404-6974

Still need a trans. I know there out there.

Text me at 805-404-6974

Im looking for some front Z hubs. New or used. Send pics and give me your location please. 240z 260z 280z Not 280zx hubs!

The 4" gauges were compression fit in and secured from the back, no mods needed. The 2 5/8" gauges mount to the factory plastic bezels that the stock units mount in. With the 2 5/8", I just glued the bezels from the back side of the dash and mounted the new gauges with the all the parts that came with them. I put the dimmer knob they sell in the dummy hole I had above the hazard switch. The wiring is easy, and they are much lighter than the factory units, especially when you ditch the factory housings pieces. Id rather put a radio in the glove box than gauges so thats why I went this route, plus it was the least expensive option. Before Christmas they had 20% off everything. GPS speedo rocks!

Thanks, Iphoto allowed me to resize when I exported the photo.

Anyone want to tell me how to reduce image size with a Mac? If I "save as" then reduce the quality, the photo stays the same size.

71 240z l28et