utvolman99
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Posts posted by utvolman99
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You cant use the T-5 from the ZX. Not unless you like installing a hand granade behind your engine. The first time you dropped the clutch would be like pulling the pin! If you want to go manual, you could either go with a T-5 from a V8 car or a T56 six speed.
As for the engine, I would suggest rebuilding the one you have. There may be some good components in that mill already.
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Congratulations on your Z! I think you will find that this site will be one of your new best friends!
You can search the archives and find almost anything pertaining to the swap. As for which engine to use, that is up to you but I would recommend the SBC.1. I used to be a ford man. I have build several high performance 302s and 351s. I think that fords are great. Only problem is you will spend a lot more money to get the same performance.
2. The SBC conversion is documented out the wazzo! You will have a LOT more help with the chevy!
JMHO
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I have found that you can get a pretty good finish with a spray can on very small suface area items. The interior for instance would not be that bad because there are a lot of bends and the parts are pretty small. Its when you have large flat areas such as the hood, fenders, doors etc... you have the problems. My father owns a paint and body shop and for small items such as black side mirrors (only if the black is not suppose to match the car) he will use a spray can. There is just too much set up for the gun.
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Just read again and saw the $1275. I think you can get a lot more for this money!
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What I hear is 10psi per 1000 RPM. What does your gauge do when you rev the engine?
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I agree with Greimann. You need to find a car with a 350. You will want to do this for the same reason your taking out the straight six. No matter how much money or time you spend on a 305 you will never have the power of a comparable 350! You can find a 350 car for not much less. How much are they asking for the 305 car?
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Denny, wow thats a great price! If I wasnt so far along with my project I would break your hand snatching those away!
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Those are good heads! It might be better to get the 215s or 220s but for the price you may have a deal. There are two things to look for though...
1. If your using "flat top" pistions you need to find out what size combustion chambers you have. If you have the 64cc you will have some serious compression ratio!
2. I dont know what kind of cam your going to use but you probably need to make sure that the springs on the heads match the cam your going to use. I bought a pair of Iron Eagles and ended up having to drop $100 on new springs.
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Hey, to each his own! One thing I would suggest is to use the 700R4 trans. That extra gear make like better. I have built a few cars (Mustangs) and have never had overdrive. I am sure that is the very reason I get sick of driving them!
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Well, dont know much about Maximas. You need to find out what kind of rearend it has. If its independant then its probably an R180. If so you could probably do the same swap we do on the Zs. If its a solid rear, your guess is as good as mine.
As far as the trans goes that just all depends on how strong your engine is going to be, how much you want to spend and if you want to shift gears.
If you go with an auto
700R4 Very strong
200R4 Not as strong better first gear
If you go manual
T56 Bullet proof six speed! $$$$$
WC T-5 Hard to find good to aprox 350hp
T-5 Everywhere good to aprox 300hp
Just my two cents
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You know... you still didnt give your times...
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Its good to see a fellow ME on the board! I think you will find that it you will use your education more on the car than you will on your job. Most engineering jobs could be done by a bright highschool kid! One thing you will learn really quick is that all that crap your profs fed you about how "school is the easy part" and "just wait till your out in the real world" is a load of crap! The hard part is over so crack one open!
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My Z was in bad need of a new headliner so I was all set to order one off the net for 50 bucks (after shipping). My dad who owns a body shop suggested that I go by the upholstery shop that he deals with and see what they could do for me. There is no molding to the Datsun piece it is just flat. I was able to pick up a sheet big enough to do my headliner and adhesive for around 15 bucks
! Additionally it has the new style backing foam that will not rot. Those things sure are a PITA to glue in though! -
Here is a guy who solved some cooling problems in a different way. You may want to check this out. I think I will do this with my V8 Z. This site is listed on Pete's links page.
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There are a few guys here who put smallar fuel tanks in to allow for exhaust routing. Unless you have a three gallon fuel cell or something you may be better off with the little one!
JMHO
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Quantrex
To me the difference between a 200R4 and a 700R4 is like the difference between turbo charging a straight six or replacing the six with a sbc.
1. Both have been proven to work
2. There is more documentation for the 700R4
3. You will always have more potential in the 700.
4. The 200 weighs a little less
5. With the same amount of money invested the 700 is stronger every time.
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There is a guy on ebay who sells reman units for around $75. I think I may go with him.
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Here you guys go. hot off the Ebay presses!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1832952869
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I really didnt think there was any dimensionally difference between the 240, 260 or the 280? I guess I could be wrong. I do however like the models before the impact bumpers. The really cool close fitting front bumpers were only on 70-72 models but can be added to any Z.
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Well assuming no slip and 24" tires you would be turning about 3500 RPM at 70MPH with the turbo 350.
The 200R4 and 700R4 are both options if you go auto. As Tomahawk pointed out there are some advantages to going with the 200R4 such as a better gear distribution and smaller size. If you are not going to be making that much hp (around 300) I would go with the 200R4. If you plan on making upwards of 400 hp I would stick with the 700R4. Both trans can take the power but it is much easier to set up a 700R4 to take the abuse. Also keep in mind that they have not made the 200R4 for quite some time.
If you are going with a stick the same kind of applies between the T-5 and the T56. The world class T-5 is a good choice for under 350HP but after that you probably want to start looking at the more expensive T56.
There are a couple of guys running big time hp through a 200R4 so it can be done.
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I am going with the Dart Iron Eagle heads. I have heard a lot good things about them. Mine have the 215cc intake runners with 2.055 1.60 valves. I picked mine up off of ebay for $850 new. I think they run about 1K through summit.
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Oh and Vortech also has the new stelth blowers that you wouldnt be able to hear over most 350s!
You can search the archives and find almost anything pertaining to the swap. As for which engine to use, that is up to you but I would recommend the SBC.
! Additionally it has the new style backing foam that will not rot.
Those things sure are a PITA to glue in though!
What engine to look for with good hp and cheap
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
You can build a great engine for that kind of money. Call around the salvage yards and find a 350 engine to build. You should be able to find one for under $100. Spend you money on what makes power! (Heads, camshaft, intake). Buy a rebuld kit from Norther Automotive, they have by far the best prices.
Engine $100
Dart Iron eagle heads $850
Northern automotive kit $300
Machine work $250
Camshaft/Lifters $200
Intake $160
This still gives you some wiggle room to stay under $2500!