utvolman99
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Posts posted by utvolman99
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Well, I did a search on this subject and I didnt find a whole lot. I am trying to decide which direction I should go with my build up. My Iron eagle heads are set up for solid lifters whatever that means? I think they just have better springs? Im sure though that I would be fine if I wanted to use hydraulic. I just cant decide which to use.
This will be a street driven car who visits the track on the weekends. I dont mind the clicking of the solid lifters and I really dont mind the adjustments. I just am not sure how streetable the solid lifters are?
Any advice would be great!
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You may want to use the sites search function and read up on the Edelbrock heads. There are a lot of other heads in the same price range that blow them away! Also, there are a lot of really good aftermarket cam grinds that have much better technology than the 350hp cam. That was a great cam 30 years ago. Look at the Comp Cams Xtreme Energy series. They are dual pattern cams that give you a better torque cure. As for the intake a lot of people are going with a single plane intake for the Zs. As I talk to the real street warriors I am learning more and more that you can throw a lot of the conventional wisdom about street engines out the door! This would be a great setup for about the same cash!
Dart Pro 1 heads (use the 215 intake runners)
Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake
Comp cams XE274 cam
You can price all these items at summit racing web site
This setup should give you around 430hp and 410lbs/ft of torque.
As for the year Z you want the early and the late both have their advantages. The newer ones are made of a little thicker steel but are weigh more. I just happen to like the looks of the 240 over the 280 myself. One thing to keep in mind is you will probably have to fortify the frame some no matter which one you go with. I personally would just look for the best deal!
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Hey Adam, this is Brad. I wrote you today to ask you about your headers! As for the shafts still turning Im pretty sure they should. spin in opposit directions but not the same when the car is in park. By the way, I found someone else who is using the Hooker headers with angle plug heads so it looks like that is the direction I will be going myself. Thanks again
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Class war huh?? So where do we fit? Are we ricers or hotrodders? I bet most ricers would say we were hotrodders and most hotrodders would say we were ricers!
I do have great respect for being able to get a lot of Hp out of a small engine. I think its great to see a 2.0L MR2 blow past a 5.0 mustang. At the same time I like to see a well tuned 5.0 put the ricers in their place. Most of these guys with imports dont know what fast is. If you read the other message boards you will see all kinds of threads reading "killed a corsica" or "killed a volvo". My truck would be blazing fast if all I raced were four door family cars and mini vans!
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Okay, Im confused! The JTR book says not to use an aftermarket aluminum radiator. They talked about people on the internet (I assume they must be talking about us) will try to get you to use aluminum but that they will not last very long on the street? Is this just so JTR can sell more radiators or is there something to it?
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yeah, this guy said he had beaten a bunch of 5.0s in his civic. He still thought I was holding out on him for what I had in my truck. I think my truck is suppose to run the 1/4 in like 16 something! He couldnt beat a 5.0 if he was shot out of a cannon!
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I think I know what your talking about. I still am not sure how I would ever take them off again even if I did that. If we are thinking about the same thing there would be no way to hold the rivit side while you took it apart?
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You see this is just what I thought and I proved my own point last night. I was heading home from a friends house in my 2000 silverado Z71. Some kid in a civic with a fart pipe pulled up next to me and started gunning it. He darted ahead of me and then slowed up so we would catch the same red light. I decided to see how bad he would do me in so I nailed it. I only left him by about a car length. We both stopped at the same gas station and he came over asking me what I had done to my truck. He seemed pretty upset when I told him it was bone stock! It is a 5.3L 285Hp engine but its still a four wheel drive truck!
Im not worried about hondas any more. Maybe my bosses ZO6 but not the hunkas!
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Okay, in removing my 73 240s front turn signals I completely destroyed those little metal clip stud thingies that hold the housing to the car. I have taken apart four pairs now and almost everyone of them decides to spin in the housing! Is there anywhere I can get new studs? Also, does anyone have any suggestions on how I could mount new studs and still be able to remove them later?
Thanks for the help
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That is kind of what I thought. It just seems that everyone is talking like a 12 second 1/4 isnt that fast for a street car. I guess when I think about it, it would be really tough to beat the Hp to weight ratio of the V8Z. I have looked at those other sites a little more and there are way too many "killed a Viper with my civic" stories on there for me to give them any credit.
I think 1/4 mile times have become like 40 yard times for college football players. It seem that every freshman is suppost to run a 4.4 40. Truth is probably 4.5-4.6! Guess I have to just hurry up and get on the street to prove my point!
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I am using the Iron Eagle 215cc heads (per your suggestion) and have a question. I was looking at the flow numbers for these heads compared to the 200cc heads. For the lift cam I will be using (xe268 or xe274) it would seem the 200s flow much better. The thing is when I plug the flow date into Desk Top Dyno 2000 I get almost identical numbers?? Here is the flow data from Dart.
215cc Iron Eagle Heads
Lift CFM
0.200 127
0.300 178
0.400 216
0.500 249
0.550 264
0.600 268
200cc Iron Eagle Heads
Lift CFM
0.200 129
0.300 185
0.400 229
0.500 261
0.550 252
0.600 252
The data I'm using for the simulation is as follows
350 ci
short tube headers
single plane intake
750 carb
10:1 compression ratio
cam lift of 477/480
Does this have anything to do with the fact that the 215s have 2.055 intake valves and the 200s have 2.02s? I suppose its possible that the DTD #s are just wrong??
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Hey, is their a member who is a firefighter in chattanooga, TN whose doing a sbc 280? I was talking to your friend Scott P. just a few minutes ago and he said that you spent some time on this board. Anyway, If you see this I would really like to contact you and compare notes! My email is zimmerba@hotmail.com.
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Well, I guess that makes sence. I do understand that logically the larger ports should flow more. At the same time it is not clear to me why the static state flow testing would not be a good predictor of the dynamic flow characteristics. I would see the variables as time, valve lift and valve size? Oh well, your the man and I trust your information.
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yeah, I saw those at autozone. They have a whole section of power adding stickers and neon lights! I dont know how many cars Ive seen around here with the little neon light bar that flashes to your music!
Oh well, to each his own! When I get my car finished I think Im going to put stickers on the back just for kicks. I think I will have a 240Z Vtech, type R spyder!
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Okay, Im in the middle of putting together my 240 sbc combo. I really enjoy this forum so I decide to step out to some import forums to see what the competition is up to. Well, it seems that every honda and tallon out there is claiming hight 11s and low 12s! Whats up whith that. I know this is probably a lot of BS but I dont want to go through all this trouble and then get thumped by a civic!!
Here is my planned set up.
73 240Z
355 sbc
aprox 10:1 compression ratio
Dart Iron eagle 215cc heads
comp xe274 cam
victor Jr intake
Holley 750 vac secondary carb
1 3/4 block hugger headers
700R4
3.7 R200
Desk top dyno tells me 440 hp at 6000RPM. Im assuming a 20% loss to the rear?? giving me 352RWHP. From what Ive seen whith street tires I will only be in the high 12s or so. This is starting to get me down!
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You will not be happy if you strip the hood backing. First off you would be left with a very thin peice of sheet metal that would flex like crazy and look like total CRAP!! Secondly, the frame inside the hood is bonded to the sheet metal skin. Trying to cut them apart would also make it look like a big load of crap! I know its not a lot of savings but you could get rid of your hood latch hardware and your hood bumbers by replacing them with hood pins. You would only save about a pound but it looks cool!
Just my two cents.
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It would not be a 305 it would be a LT1 350. Very good engine and trans combo.
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Im not sure if it will work or not because Ive already tried to strip about half of it. I would be worried about sanding and painting over that.
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I recently bought a front air dam from ebay. When I got it it was painted white and had some paint cracks. I used a paint stripper for flexable parts and it doesnt work worth a crap! Has anyone used a urithane stripper that actually works?? I need something bad. I have damaged the paint to the point that I must strip it now! I have worked for about two hours had have stripped a 6"x6" space!
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Hey Grumpy dont you think you would get better performance if you shifted at a point that would put you before your peak torque RPM? Using the engine Im building on DTD2000 and the GM Muncie (M-21, M-22) as an example. I would think you would want to look at your torque curve and shift at of point that would insure the highest average torque for the whole gear? Here is my torque curve with some interpolated values added.
RPM Torque (lb-ft)
2000 313
2500 327
3000 346
3500 373
4000 397
4500 409
5000 411
5500 396
6000 378
6400 351
6500 344
6700 328
7000 304
According to the formula above the shift points would be
1st-2nd 6700 RPM
2nd-3ed 6400 RPM
3ed-4th 6400 RPM
Average torque for each gear
1st = aprox 363 (when launching at 2000 RPM)
2nd = aprox 382
3ed = aprox 382
Average torque for each gear when shifting at 6000 RPM
1st = aprox 372
2nd = aprox 398
3ed = aprox 398
Dont get me wrong grumpy, Im not trying to call you out or anything. You probably know more about hot rodding than anyone Ive ever talked to.
Im just trying to get some good discussion going. -
Well, this doesnt bode too well for all of us using or planning to use the 700R4 trans does it? My Desk Top Dyno Numbers tell me I should be making peak Torque somewhere between 4500 - 5000 RPM with the engine Im building. Lets just say 4500 RPM. Using the above thinking this would be my shift points.
1st - 2nd 8500 RPM
2nd - 3ed 7290 RPM
3ed - 4th 6429 RPM
I would venture to say that after shift #1 I wouldnt have to worry about the rest!
For a tamer engine making peak torque at 4000K it would look like this
1st - 2nd 7556 RPM
2nd - 3ed 6480 RPM
3ed - 4th 5714 RPM
Once again, I dont think you would make it past 1st.
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By the way nullbound that is a sweet looking car!
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These might be the answer! I have looked for a while and while some $ander$on headers will work they are very expensive. I dont know how big the primarys are on these or how they will fit but I think they are worth a try. I will not be buying headers till I am ready to sit my engine in so it may be six weeks or so. If anyone else tries these let me know!
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The JTR book has some of that stuff and that is something you are going to need anyway! Also, you can check some of the V8 Z homepages. Here is a good one to start with!
Also, I think there is a handling book out there somewhere for the old Z? I am also just getting started on a 73.
Im just trying to get some good discussion going.
Got my Z! Now what to do first?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
I am taking a slightly different approach.
1. Body and rust repair (car had a vinyl top!!
)
2. chassis strengthening battery relocation
3. R180 - R200 swap
4. Engine swap
5. interior work
6. Brakes and suspension
7. Interior work