utvolman99
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Posts posted by utvolman99
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Hi...on a 83 ZXT' date=' needing spring wheels/tires, I am finding there are more 14"s in decent looking styles, e.g mag/mesh. Exactly what will the trade off be in going from 205 60 16 to 195 70 13? I'm imagining they might actually ride better and pound less than 15/16", as well possibly weigh less=faster take offs...the only tire choice for me would be the Toyo TS-1, which is summer ultra high performance.
I am street driving only, no autoX. Is this nutso or what?
Thanks
John[/quote']
As I understand it, the smaller diameter wheels would give you better straight line traction for the same height tire/wheel combo. While the larger diameter wheels would give you better handling through the twisties for the same height timer/wheel combo.
I'm sure there is a lot more to this but I think that this is the general rule.
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Hello all.....anyone think a metal fab shop would charge alot less to make the adapter plates that are in the jtr book????anyone recommend someone???Thanks, Mike
I really cant recommend anyone but I would say that you could get the parts cheaper. It really isn't complicated work so I really wouldn't worry about workmanship. I would just go with your cheapest quote and then measure the parts yourself to make sure they are right.
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Whatcha think??[/url]
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This is for a 240 with a moderately built 355
I am planning on running the standard 2.5" to one 3" setup that so many others have had luck with. I have still heard that due to the length of the car it is hard to get the sound to a tollerable level. I was thinking of running a set of 2.5" Dynomax racing mufflers along each side of my transmission pan.
Then I was going to cap it off with a 3" Dynomax super turbo in the stock muffler location.
Do you think that this will help any with the noise? I would like to keep the car as quiet and mellow as possible without losing power.
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I am in the middle of a 240 project. I'm 6'3" and with the stock seats my head was like 1/2" from the headliner. Also, it was (and still is a little) hard to get my leg between the seat and the wheel! I now have a set of leather Miata seats and they are MUCH better. They are not in right now or I would post pictures but they were very easy to adapt to the car (probably spent about an hour). I used the "Z sliders bolted directly to the Mazda seat bottom. I did have to clearance the seat bottom a bit with a cut off tool. The bolt pattern on the Mazda is also a bit narrower so I had to drill a couple new holes in the floor and my seat is about 1/4" offset towards the tunnel. I think once I have a little smaller wheel I will be able to fit just fine. Maybe I will hold on to the stock 240 wheel incase Im ever restoring a bus!
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I'm 6'3" as well and I too had a lot of problems with seat height. I ended up going with Miata seats with the original Z sliders bolted directly to the Miata seat frame. It seems to set about 1.5" lower than the Datsun seat did.
If I were you and I didn't trust the workmanship in the seat supports I would do something about it. If I had not solved, or at least helped, my problem with the Miata seats I was planning on cutting out the seat supports and having steal C channel welded in at a lower height. If you really like the seats you should go for it. At least on the driver side. Shouldn't run you too much to have them welded if you do all the prep work.
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Muskrat' date='
yes, they are for the standard sbc. i just reshaped the JTR ones so they wouldn't look mismatched to the chevy motor mounts.
the reason i'm looking at welding 1" round bar stock on for the spacers is because,
1) i don't think there will be much difference in weight between those and the aluminum spacers and any difference will be made up by what i removed from the origional plates.
2) i would rather have 1 piece of metal that looks like it belongs there than have a motor mount bolted to a slab of steel which is used to sandwich a piece of aluminum to the engine block.[/quote']
Hey thats fine. I do think the shape looks better than the JTR design. They will not be as strong but as Jamie pointed out they still will not be the weak link in the setup. As for the square tubing I think the JTR book mentioned that some people have used square tubing. You would have to find the two different sizes and all but that shouldn't be that hard. I personally think the JTR spacers look really good. Keep in mind now that the spacers in the JTR drawings are different than the spacers that you buy from JTR. The ones you actually buy are T shaped and would complement the look you have with the mounts.
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I wonder how much more air if any, that extra blade on the Tarus fan would pull (cfm)? assuming both speeds on the motors are the same. The bases of the Tempo blades seem wider so, perhaps none. I'm curious as to the blade pitch differences between the two.
Wow, I never really noticed that the Taurus fan had an extra blade. I wonder if that will make a big difference. The two fans are the same diameter so I could always switch blades!
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I really wouldn't bother with this design over the original. Carbon steel weighs 0.277lbs/in^3. Just eyeballing this design you would be saving about 1.5lbs. Also I feel the strength of the plates would suffer. If your interested in saving weight you should go with the alum spacers from JTR. They will be a lot lighter than sqare tubing.
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so do you guys think these work?
I think they will work, how weel I don't know but they should do fine. With that said, in order to make them work you will have to update/upgrade your electrical system to match the headlights. Do a search and you should find some good info. I think Pete has done quite a bit of work to improve his headlights.
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Do I need to try and find molded heater hoses to run from the Heatercore to the engine? I was planning on just using straight hose but was unsure if it would put the hose in a bind coming out of the firewall? Also, if you do use molded hose do you have to splice into it with straight hose in order to reach and tie into the V8?
Thanks
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I was thinking about that yesterday and thought it would be better IMO' date=' if instead of putting a light behind the badge you put the badge/light behind the front wheel and in between the door.
Or better yet if you could some how get the 350Z "Z" logo stenciled on a light and then use that as a side marker.[/quote']
Yeah, I had thought of that also but there are several things that stopped me.
1. That is more cutting than I want to do.
2. I really want to keep the vent that is on the inside of the piller cup and two Z badges on the side of the car might be too much.
3. I think a simple flush mounted marker between the door and the wheel well would look pretty sharp (Not as sharp as the Z badge though) but I really don't have an alternative for the rear.
It is something to think about though. I wounder how important those vents behind the badges are?
Also, speaking of the 350Z I will be ordering one of these for my hood!
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Thats pretty slick....I don't think I've ever seen anyone do that before....or have they?? Just curious' date=' what are the total cost for this modification? Way to think outside the box.
Chase[/quote']
Well, as you can see if you look close to the pic I have yet to wire the light. (The wire is coming out the side of the badge. My car is a few months from hitting the road so I have time. As far as cost the only cost involved is the cost of the lights. They were $9.99 for the pair at Autozone. They are designed to stick to the outside of the car so they are weatherproof. I am still going to tack a small flat peice of sheet metal (maybe 1/4" x 1") into the cup to give the light a good surface to mount. I may end up putting two of the LEDs in each cup to make it a little brighter. If I do that the total cost will be around $20.
By the way, I'm a mechanical engineer my boss tells me all the time that I'm paid to think outside of the box!
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Hey guys, I posted pictures of the rear marker in a new thread.
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Okay, I dropped by Autozone and bought some of the little stick on lights that are designed to tint the color of your headlights. These fit nice behind the pillar badges on the rear. I will have to tack a small flat plate inside the badge cup for a better mounting surface.
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Here is a picture of a two speed Taurus SHO fan (Left) and a two speed Tempo fan. I am sorry but I'm not sure what year the Tempo was, it was already parted out when I found the fan at my father's shop. the Tempo fan fits my rad a lot better. The only part of the rad that will be uncovered is a small area just at the filler.
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yeah. I've had those on my car over about a year and a half.
I didn't realize that that was your car. Are they the same as the ones that I linked? I really like the idea of only drilling one hole! Also, was it a big deal to get them to blink with your turn signal?
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SBC blown in a 85' 300zx, how do I do it?
Take it out of gear and hold the gas to the floor. Should blow quickly!
Really though, you may want to do a search for V8 300 Z on this site and on Yahoo. The SBC 300ZX has been done before but not by that many.
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auxilary, that looks like the same marker I linked above. I have been looking at cars over the last few days to see where there marker is located. I am pretty sure that I am going with an Aero II kit so I think it would look pretty good up there on the air dam. either way, I think its safe to say that at least my front marker hole will meet my mig sometime in the near future!
I am kind of torn between the marker being on the air dam or behind the wheel like on the BMWs and S2000.
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utvolman99' date='
could you post a picture of that fan? and what year tempo did it come out of? the reason i ask is that in the JTR manual they show one that has a slightly different shroud than the two that i have found. it has two mounting tabs on the top of the shroud which makes the install cleaner and more professional looking.[/quote']
I will post a pic but I'm not sure if it is the one from the book. This one has a similar shroud but the mating surface between the shroud and the radiator has no cut outs like my SHO fan. It is a flat surface that will seal against the rad. Also, there is a place on my SHO shroud where the fan bulges out from the bottom line of the shroud. It is not like that on the Tempo fan. The only draw back to the tempo fan is that the shroud is not square. It is like a square with the corner cut off.
Also, another thing to keep in mind is that my rad is a little (I think 1") narrower than most griffins that people are using for the Z. I just got a really good deal and went with it. I will try to post pics this afternoon. If not this afternoon tomorrow night.
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What I'm planning on doing is cutting out the "Z" (like the one on the piller) in place of the side markers, and back lighting them.
I think that would look really cool to add that to the fender in place of the front marker but not both the front and the back. Also, if I were going to do that with the front marker I would probably shave the original one on the piller. You dont want a bunch of little round Zs on the side of your car!
Check back here over the next couple of days. I am going to go to mess around with back lighting the one on the piller just to see how it looks. My car is in primer and the whole front is off but maybe it will give us an idea.
If it works I will probably just keep the Z where it is and use it for my back marker. I am looking for more of a glow than a bright light though so we will see how it goes.
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a lot of the chevy truck rads, along with the caprice rad, are too long to fit in the z.the radiator can't be longer than the width between the frame rails, which is about 26". you should really get a copy of the JTR manual as it contains a lot of information on this topic not to mention many others. as far as fans go i think the taurus setup is probably one of the best. you have to be careful when looking for the right fan. you need to find one with 3 wires going into the motor (2 speed fan) as opposed to the 2 wire version (1 speed fan) which is found in earlier taurus's and most tempos. to top that, i also found that there are at least two different 2 speed versions of the taurus fan. one has a fan diameter of about 16 1/2" and the other is about 15".
I figured that most Tempo fans would be the one speed type. Thats why I was so happy to find this one. I'm not sure about the diameter but it's the same size around as my Taurus SHO fan.
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I was wanting to get my inner fenders chromed for my engine compartment but didn't know how much work it would be to remove them because they support the front struts right?
Wow, that would look cool but I think would be REALLY hard! The Inner Fenders not only support the struts they are welded to frame rail, part of the crossmember support (well kinda) and weld to the firewall. Maybe, I'm just a wuss but I dont see going through all that unlessI was already replacing frame rails or something.
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I have a Taurus SHO fan setup waiting to go into my car but the shroud will need some work to fit my rad. On a side note. I was at my fathers shop a few weeks ago and they were stripping down a Tempo. It had the same two speed fan as the Taurus. The shroud is a little different and I may end up using that one instead.
What to do about stock firewall insulation???
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Hey guys. I have just about everything stripped out of my Zs interior and am about to order a Brown Bread insulation kit. What did you guys do with the stock firewall insulation? Did you rip it out or leave it. I'm not sure but I think some of that area will be visible in the end and I'm not sure I want the silver Brown Bread stuff showing.