utvolman99
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Posts posted by utvolman99
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Wow, I guess no one cares about me or my side markers!
I just had another brain storm. I wonder if anyone has ever put a light behind the Z badge behind the door and used that as the back marker light? I would do it in clear instead of red so it wouldn't really be leagal but I think it could look pretty cool if done right?
Am I heading down that slippery slope into a giant box of Uncle Bens or does this sound pretty cool?
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Ahh the Datsun Z.
Body syle inspired by Ferrari...
Suspension inspired by porsha...
Side marker lights inspired by UHAUL!!
I really hate those things!
I'm sure that this is not my original idea but I think I am going to weld those babies up and go with a set of clear markers between my wheel well and door. I would like to only do the ones in the front and not have anything in the back? Do you guys think that this would be a problem? I have found this set of lights on a... well... ricer site! What do you guys think?http://maxx-performance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MP&Category_Code=smarker
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If the engine is in good shape it might be a pretty good deal. But like you said above you would have to pull the pistons and go with something to bring you down to the 9.5:1 mark.
Also, you NEED to find out what kind of cam the engine has. The cam is the heart of the engine and you may want to change it out. Also, keep in mind you really dont know what kind of shape the heads are in. A lot of people just put in new valves call them rebuilt.
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Hey guys, I tried doing a search and found a lot of information concerning EFI engines and stock fuel tanks. I however have a carb setup and am wondering what I need to do to make sure it is fed. My engine should be putting out between 400 and 450hp. I was already planning on running a new 3/8" line and having a healthy fuel pump. What I had not planned on was having to modify the stock tank? Will I be able to use the stock fuel pickup or will I have to make modifications?
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I will not be able to give you all your answers but I can give you some of the pros and cons.
-The LT1 is going to run you a LOT less $$$ than the LS1
-It will be a lot easier to find help if installing an LT1. (A lot of people have done the swap)
-With the LT1 you can use the JTR kit with the LS1 you cant. You would have to engineer all the brackets and such.
-The LS1 is a better engine design (newer tech)
-The LS1 could give you more power but at a price $$$
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I think you mean Alabama. Don't solder - either braze or weld it on.
Yeah, I do mean Bama. I was down there on business a couple of years ago and dropped by his house to buy a R200. I will look into having a friend of mine torch weld the pickup on (assuming that it wouldnt heat things up too much?). With spot welds I do okay, anything past that and I have to find someone.
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yeah... I was having the same thoughts about the RTV and teflon. Here is my problem though. I dont think that the tube fits tight enough to make me feel comfortable about it not sucking air. Should I just solder it on? If so what kind of solder would you use?
By the way. Are you still in GA or are you back in OH?
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On flat tappet lifters nothing the cam is held back by a slight taper on the cam lobes. This causes the lifterts to turn and also holds the cam back in the block. If you use a roller cam then you need to use a cam button on the front of the cam that pushes against the timing chain cover to hold the cam in place. As I recall the plug at the rear of the block is installed just like a freeze plug.
Thanks for the help... I just thought that that back plug went in just a little too easy. I guess there is not a huge amount of stress on it though.
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come on now, someone on here knows this!
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Well, I have a 9qt road racing oil pan that came with its own pick up. The pickup would in no way begin to go into the intake of the pump. I ground just a little on the end of the pickup to bevel the tube and then used a hammer and punch to get the picup fully installed. Here is the problem...
now the pickup tube just slides into the pump. It is not tight at all! I was wondering about using teflon tape or RTV to help seal up the connection. This is a low profile pan and the screen end of the pickup actually bolts to the bottom of the pump so not fitting snugly will not let the pickup move around only break sucktion.
Would the RTV be okay? Should I use teflon tape instead?
Thanks for your help
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Okay, this is a little hard to admit but this is my first Chevy build.
When installing the camshaft what holds it in in the front and back? It looks like there is nothing in the front except for the timing gear? There is no place to bolt anything only three oil channels. In the back there is a silver plug (kind of like a feeze-out plug but not as deep and bigger around. Is this the cam wear plate? Is this all that holds the cam in? Also, which direction does the back plug wear plate dudad go? I have it in like a normal freeze-out plug but a friend of mine told me that it is suppose to go in lip first?
Thanks for your help!
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Hmmm something doesn't seem right here. This is this guys third attempt to auction this car and last time he sold it for a buy it now of 3K?
Also says it will go 180mph
dont think so.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2462711389
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I have a low profile 8qt oil pan and angle plug block hugger style headers. I had a real hard time finding headers that I could afford. These are coated and have 2.5" collectors. My pan flares out just below and behind where the collector ends. I would like to run a 2.5" into 3" system and have already ordered 2.5 to 2.5" reducers and a 2.5" J mandrel J bend with a 3.5" rad. I am planning on fabricating past the oil pan and let a shop do the rest. This is what I will have to do in order to get around my pan...
1. on the passenger side I will have to cut the reducer off almost at the flange and weld on part of my J bend. This 90 degree bend will almost be pointing perpendicular to the centerline of the engine.
2. From there I will be able to use the other 90 to turn the exhaust straight down.
3. Then I should be able to use a more gradual 90 to turn towards the back.
Will these three 90s make for big flow problems? My only other option will be to cut on my oil pan. I really dont want to do that.
The drivers side will be a lot easier but will be constructed similarly.
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One more thing. I know that this may not be popular on the SBC board but if I had it to do all over again I would swap an engine from a 280ZT. If you read on their board they are pushing some serious power with a LOT less fabrication. Also, if reving is what you want you can't beat the Nissan straight six!
JMHO
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If you have never done anything like this before I would follow the KISS (Keep it simple stupid) mentality. I have built engines in the past and have been in a shop my whole life. On top of that I am a mechanical engineer. I am using the JTR conversion and it is still more to it that I could of originally dreamed.
The turbo is a great idea and I love the twin turbo kit you can get for the 5.0 but if you do a search there have been a lot of posters who started out planning to do a turbo V8 swap and I have yet to see one. One other thing to consider is that you will be hanging a considerable amount of weight over the front of the engine with the turbos.
With that said, in the end you can't really go wrong with either engine. They are both great!
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Well, it is about time for me to order my JTR kit. I noticed the price has dropped to $275 (I think it used to be over $300?). Well anyway, I was talking to some of the guys at my plants machine shop and they said that they had some extra mild steel and could knock out the setback plates, crossmember spacers, trans crossmember and the hood latch bracket for FREE!! That leaves me ordering the setback spacers, spedo cable and driveshaft adapter flange. So instead of $275 in only plopping down $133! Oh happy day!
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I have read about two guys (who had both compleated mutiple swaps in the past) compleating one on a three day weekend. It was a running stock 280 and the transplant was from a running truck that was wrecked. I think though they pretty much had all the parts (driveshaft, radiator etc...) just sitting there from another project that was also wrecked.
Just to let you know though. I had originally planned on six months for my project. That was two years ago.
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the true aluminum roller rockers will allow your engine so both run slightly cooler oil temps and make 15-20 peak hp more due to lower friction' date=' all the choices work, but you should know that the roller tip rockers are basically wasted money as the amount of friction effort the roller tips gain is totally insignificant.
the differance between the stamped steel and roller rockers is about $100, thats not a bad deal even if you only got 10 hp from the lower friction
if your on a tight budget get the stamped steel and upgrade later[/quote']
Thanks, I'm a mechanical engineer and it really didn't make any sence to me that the roller tip would make a difference. There is MUCH less metal to metal contact area on the tip than on the fulcrum! What do you think about the pushrods?
Thanks for your help Grumpy!
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Summit really has some cheap stuff. I was thinking about going with the summit brand pushrods also. They are not one peice but they do have welded tips and should be better than the stock replacements from autozone?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG6400
Or maybe these from Comp Cams
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D7812%2D16
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Hey guys, its time for me to spring for rocker arms and finish putting the beast together. I have found out that I only have around six months to slap this baby together and get her on the road! In order to do that I will need to save as much money as possible.
350 chevy 2 bolt mains W/ARP studs
Stock crank only needed polishing
Competition Cams Xtreme Energy solid lifter 256/268
Dart Iron Eagle 215 heads (home port cleanup job)
Jictor Jr. Intake
Holley 750 Vac secondary
Eagle forged rods
Hyperutectic pistons 9.3 - 1 compression ratio
Here is what I was thinking about in the way of rocker arm
Very Cheapest would be a regular stamped long slot rocker $47.69
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG6800
Next would be a steel rocker with a roller tip $98.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D141506
Then would be a aluminum rocker that is a full roller $159.50
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG6905
I know that these are all pretty cheap compared to the best alternatives and I also know that the answer would be the best one I could afford. I am just curious how much it would hurt me to go with the regular stamped rocker and maybe upgrade sometime down the road? Also, if I were to go with the stamped arms would I still have to buy an adjustable pushrod to measure the needed length or could I just go with the stock length? I dont mind spending the money for that but would like to also save time.
Thanks for your help.
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Still no one has commented on the actual pay. I do understand that I would not be able to buy a house in these cities making this kind of money but other than that how would my standard of living be? I can go to cost of living calculators on the net but those are not very accurate and dont take some things into account.
I was planning on living in an appartment in the $1,000 to $1,200 range. From the looks of them on realtor.com they are pretty small 600 - 800 ft^2 but they seem to be pretty nice? Also, how much does food cost? Around here (in Nashville) two can go to a sitdown chain resturant for around $30 and a nicer trendy type place for around $40 - $50. There are also places where you can drop $150 but that is not the norm. I know that gas would be a HUGE difference. Here people are crying because its up to $1.65 for regular. I'm sure its closer to $3.00 out there.
What it boils down to is that I would like to be in a financial postion that would allow me to not have to budget my groceries and be able to go out to eat, movies, dates without that much worry...
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.... Not meaning to touch a nerve, but going back to the first post in this thread - making $65K in Tennessee sounds like an entirely reasonable income, especially for a young guy with no dependents.
Your not touching a nerve. $65K in Tennessee is great, probably upper middle class. I just hate my current job (mechanical engineer) and have always wanted to be a cop. I have been doing this for five years and have hated every second of it. I feel that it is time to do what will make me happy and not worry so much about the money.
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Just keep in mind that the State of CA is in financial crisis and government (State' date=' regional and local) are on the chopping block.
Tim[/quote']
I do understand that. I am comitted to my current job for the next year or so. At that point I will start applying for a police officer job. It normally takes 6-8 months to get a job offer so I am looking for a couple of years down the road.
How did the pay figures look?
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Hey guys,
I am considering changing professions and becoming a police officer (I know, I know). The pay where I am (the south) is so LOW I am having to look around at other regions. I am looking all over the country but am very interested in CA. I know that the cost of living is very high and would like to run these starting pay numbers buy you to see how they would stack up. I am not looking to be rich. I have just been told by others that this is near poverty level for these parts of CA
Hayward PD Starts at $71,430
Vallejo PD Starts at $70,481
Fremont PD starts at $68,471
Sunnyvale PD starts at $73,123
Concord PD starts at $56,890
Riverside PD starts at $53,224
Huntington Beach PD starts at $54,424
San Bernardino PD starts at $51,600
In Knoxville, TN (my home town) the PD starts at $28,400! I couldn't imagine living off of that kind of money even if it is in Tennessee! I am currently living in a smaller town than Knoxville and am making around 65K. I know that no matter where I go I will have a step down in lifestyle...
Thanks for your help.
I'm sure that this is not my original idea but I think I am going to weld those babies up and go with a set of clear markers between my wheel well and door. I would like to only do the ones in the front and not have anything in the back? Do you guys think that this would be a problem? I have found this set of lights on a... well... ricer site! 
What do you guys think?
When installing the camshaft what holds it in in the front and back? It looks like there is nothing in the front except for the timing gear? There is no place to bolt anything only three oil channels. 
dont think so.
side marker idea...
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
There are several OEM marker lights that I think would look better on the Z. The reason that I think I will go with these is that they are a no brainer to install. If you look all you do is drill one round hole with a regular hand drill.
I think my biggest problem will be finding a way to back light the Z badge on the quarter. The more I I think about it the more I like this idea. I will need to find/cut down a lense that will sit back in the pod. I know that there is a vent into the inside of the car from behind the badge. it would be great if I could keep that as well.