Phantom

Jeromio, I feel your pain. 8/31 I have an opportunity to do laps at Texas Motor Speedway in my car - but it won't be done yet. 9/1 I have an opportunity to put my car on a road race track in Hallet, OK all day for $90 - but it won't be ready yet. 10/12 my church is kicking off it's new car club - Chariots of Light - with a car show - I'm a member but my car probably won't be done. I'm helping start up a new Z club in Fort Worth. After every meeting we go out and talk Z's - but my car isn't done and therefore isn't there. I feel your pain.

Scott T - You're exactly right about going after the financing. People can have a lot of hate and not be able to do much about it if they don't have the financing for the training, weapons purchases, transportaion, etc. Read the papers - even the English don't really like us. We are considered the bully of the world and everyone is envious of our standard of living. We have few friends and there is nothing that we can do to change that other than give it all up - and I don't think even that would change things. Internationally we are on our own - unless another country sees an economic or political advantage to temporarily side with us. Using the international court system is probably one of the more effictive ways to fight these fanatics. It will force them deeper underground, slow down their movements, and, over time, start sniping away at their financial support. Those boys over there are mostly all greedy sob's (except for the real fanatics like Bin Laden who even scares the Saudi's)and they will support their hatred of the US only as long as they see their money not getting grabbed up by the courts.

Thanks Z-ya & Randy 77zt. From what you are saying it appears that I'm in good shape with my '77 280Z FI gas tank since it is equipped with baffles and supply & return lines. Please correct me if I'm making an incorrect assumption here. I posted over on LS1tech.com and got a little information but everyone seems to diverge from my original question which is - Can anyone recommend a good external pump that will provide the flow & pressure the LS-1 will need - as quietly as possible? Thanks to all.

Jeromio, I have a 280Z which is already fuel injected. The fuel tank has the expansion tank, return line, etc. Why can't an external pump communicate with the Chevy ECM in the same fashion that the Chevy in-tank pump does? Not all fuel injected Chevy engines have had in-tank pumps. The Chevy bypass valve can feed the Datsun tank return line. Other than handling capacity differences I don't see a big problem. Am I missing something that you're trying to say and I'm just not understanding?

I am installing basically a stock LS-1 into my 280Z. I intend to use the stock Datsun fuel tank so will need an externally mounted pump. This is a daily driver that will be making 305-350 HP. What pump would y'all recommend and what size supply and return lines? Can I keep the original lines and just run slightly higher pressure at the pump discharge to get the flow?

Cyrus, I didn't see where you said what fuel pump you are using. Are you using the Camaro tank and internal pump or an aftermarket pump? That is another area I don't have nailed down yet except I know I intend to stay with the Z fuel tank and use an externally mounted pump. Also - intend to use the Camaro wiring for OBDII and engine management only. I'm going to have Datsun senders installed additionally to handle the stock Datsun gauges. I am really trying to keep the Chevy part and the Datsun part as segregated as possible.

Put a '77 280Z on a certified scale. Car had 16" wheels & tires and the MSA Aero II ground effects kit along with '83ZX 5-spd and R200 and 1/2 tank of gas. It weighed 2,800 even. Last week I put a completely stock '83ZX - NA with 5-spd, 3/4 tank of gas, and T-tops and it weighed 2,880. the best part was that it was an axle scale and the car axled at 1,430 front and 1,450 rear. If it'd had a 1/2 tank of gas it would have been an even 50/50 split.

Well - there's an engine & tranny in the hole. Have an LS-1/4L60E that was in a car fire (it is really painful to look at a melted down aluminum engine) that is being used to determine fit and then the real McCoy goes in. As of Thursday night it was sitting 6" in front of the firewall. Looking at the AC compressor, alternator, steering gear, heater connections and AC connections at the firewall it looks like the engine will slide back about another 3.5". That will put the shifter close to center in the original tunnel hole but will still probably build an offset into the shifter to move it back some - I have short arms for my height. The AC compressor at that point will impact the passenger side original Datsun mount so it has to go. Will build in an offset unit that attaches to cross-member where the old Datsun mount is and also to the frame rail. Stock exhaust header is still on the passenger side. It will clear everything there - no problem. AC and heater connections will be tight but can be left in original locations and run OK. At this point it appears that the steering arm and alternator will be OK. Will have to re-evaluate when the engine is moved in closer. Don't have the exhaust header on the drivers side but, even though it looks close, it has a good chance of clearing. A bit concerned about the brake lines and fuel lines at this point. Looks like they may have to get relocated a bit. Not positive but possibility exists. Not going to install an oil cooler at this point. That can wait for another day. Gauges - going to stay stock. Buy the unit that will take the electronic output from the T-56 and drive the mechanical speedometer. That takes care of speedo and odo. Tach is a straight forward modification of the signal to read 8 cylinder vs. 6. Will mount Datsun senders on the LS-1 to pick up water temperature and oil pressure for the car gauges and let the Chevy ones just provide info to the ECM which will be on pasenger side floor. Radiator - going to a 4-row version of the stock radiator - probably with pusher and puller fans and keep the original Datsun condenser for now. Also going to use R-12 vs R134a - has larger molecules, lower pressure, and same oil so less likely to leak away in the older part of the system. Also eliminates concerns about getting all the old oil out. Still haven't decided on the exhaust if it'll stay split until after the tranny or route across under the engine. Depends on how tight things are and best overall for long term maintenance. Hope to have a clearer picture in about two weeks. Going to be in Vegas a couple days next week.

Contact Courtesy Nissan in Irving, TX. They can get the FSM's on CD. If I remember when I'm at work Monday I'll look up the address & phone number of the company that sells hard copies of the FSM's. I got one from them for my '77 which will be VERY similar to a '78. E-mail me directly at: BillD@Poly-America.com and I'll send you the info.

Well said Aaron. It is imperative that we all understand that there really is more than just the life we are currently walking through and be properly prepared to face eternity. Rated - my heart goes out to you buddy. It's tough to lose someone you know so senselessly. I've been there too.

Is the octane rating a research octane number, a measured octane number or the average octane number that is used today? If it is a research number like was used back in the 60's & early 70's then 91 pump gas is no problem Even if it's the average used today I wouldn't sweat a single digit difference. Does anyone out there really think that Chevron and the boys can control their fuel ratings within a single digit? Anyway, the absolute worst thing you'd have to do is retard your timing a couple degrees or toss a couple moth balls in each tank of gas.

Labrat - You ever come up for the "Fastest Z Shootout" hosted by the Z Club of Texas? There are a few Z's in that club that are really impressive. Check their website for date. www.zclufoftexas.org

You definitely have too much spare time on your hands. Have you thought about selling encyclopedias door-to-door?

Look at my post on Non-tech board under "280ZX weight"

I went to Discount Tire. They have a zillion books with wheels in them. Ended up ordering some Center Lines - 16x7's with '0' offset - Trident II series. They have some really sweet looking forged wheels now that you can probably have built with your specific lug pattern and offset - just be prepared for the price.

I put a similar post to this over on zcar.com. It is amazing the replies I got. The only comfort is that at least one guy had it figured out. The others either can't read or can't think - maybe both?

I understand what you're saying. Remember - the u-joints don't think one dimensionally or even two. 5-10° off absolutely, perfectly aligned, in any combination of the three dimensions works for them - BUT - if the combination is too much, or too little, then you're back into the vibration thing again. It's a fun dance.

Interesting. My experience in industrial applications with driveshafts is that there needs to be a 5-10° offset to eliminate universal induced vibration.

I got curious so I put my N/A '83 280ZX 5-spd. with 3/4 tank of gas and a 220 lb. driver on a certified scale at work today with the following results: Total weight: 3,100 lbs. Front axle: 1,540 lbs., 49.7% Rear axle: 1,560 lbs., 50.3% A full tank of gas would bias it a bit more to the rear - about 3.5 gallons less and it would be close to a near perfect 50/50. Thought some of you would find this interesting as a baseline for the conversions you've been doing. For what it's worth, I did the same with my '77 280Z several years ago and it came out to 2,800 lbs. - without the driver and a half tank of gas. I didn't axle it then - wish I had since it's the one getting the V-8 now.

I saw two old TR-7's with V-8/auto conversions in them sitting in the yard next to his shop. You might contact him and see what he wants for one of them. Between his car and yours you could probably end up with something pretty nice for not a lot of money.

Back when I drove my '77 280Z everyday I used to get Z-28's & T/A's heated up all the time. My Z has the MSA Aero II ground effects kit, 16" wheels, split chrome exhaust tip and is painted Cadillac pearl red with white racing stripe. I'd catch them sleeping, dump the clutch just before I got to them, and blow by. They'd break their necks trying to catch me for a real shot. If they did I wouldn't let them have it. Man have I ticked some of those boys off. When I get the '77 back from the shop with the LS-1/T-56 in it the game will change a bit. I am really looking forward to the holidays.

Pulled up next to a new 911 Carrera today in my totally stock '83ZX. Got him excited and I got a display of the HP he has and a thorough trashing. Grumble, grumble - sure wish I had my '77 out of the shop and the V-8 rumble, rumble because then we really could have rumbled. FRUSTRATION!!

Cyrus, Underneath the word "message" when you pull up a reply screen you'll see "UBB Code is enabled". Single click on that and it'll bring up a screen that tells you how.

My son smoked a Lambourgini Diablo with an '83 Sentra (69 HP)once. Got the guy all heated up at a stop light - guess the Lambo driver was going to show my son a thing or two - Anyway, he stalled the Diablo coming off the line and my son took him for about 50 yds. Guy hid behind his Foster Grants at the next light while my son just rolled in his seat with laughter. The driver makes the car - not vice versa. I'll get my chance at that Porsche again and he'll have a much harder go when I do.

Over the past three weeks all that has happened is the minor body work and engine bay paint out. The car is looking good but still has the gaping hole in the front. Supposed to get back on it mechanically this week - we'll see. 8-12 week project has passed the 5 week mark now and headed toward 22-26 weeks. Total investment at this point for 3.7:1 R200 LSD, power train removal, & body work is $1,075 less the $500 I got for the old drive train.