Phantom

Over the past three weeks all that has happened is the minor body work and engine bay paint out. The car is looking good but still has the gaping hole in the front. Supposed to get back on it mechanically this week - we'll see. 8-12 week project has passed the 5 week mark now and headed toward 22-26 weeks. Total investment at this point for 3.7:1 R200 LSD, power train removal, & body work is $1,075 less the $500 I got for the old drive train.

I understand the no time thing. House, two kids - one married now but the younger with a Christian rock 'n roll band that I handle merchandising for,job that averages about 11hrs/day plus traveling, visiting mother in nursing home twice a week, church on Tues & Wed night plus Sunday mornings. Spent this past weekend replacing the pump motor on the pool and chasing electrical gremlins. Fixed it just before the algae bloomed. I realized I had more available cash than time so I'm having all the heavy conversion work done by a garage. I spend my one night a week I have available crawling the car and reviewing progress - or non-progress as it has been lately. In the last three weeks all that has happened is I got some minor body work done and the engine bay painted out. The car looks great but has a really big hole under the hood. If you've got the spare cash - get someone else to do some of the work. Be selective and control your costs but at least the project will progress.

Jim, You're the man!! That's great info on the heater/AC controls. A good picture sure says a lot. You ever think about writing you're own manual?

Don't know what year car you've got but I learned the hard way to not let Nissan touch my car. MOst of their mechanics only know how to plug a computer in - general comment not specific because there are some good Nissan Shops out there - Courtesy in Irving, TX is one of them, Don Davis in Arlington, TX is not. Do you have a Z club in your area or anywhere close? Those guys will know who can do it for you. You probably can take the car to a trim shop or a body shop and get it done. Those guys are always tearing dashes out to customize them.

We only have two cars so when I told my wife I was going to V-8 the Z she told me no problem - just drive her Jeep while the Z wsa in the shop. That lasted about 3 days. A week later I bought an '83ZX to drive until the "77 is done. All is bliss now and wife doesn't even mind the $$$$$ this is costing - too much.

Thanks guys. This is all helping. The general "look out for this' keeps me from repeating bad history. Again - my thanks.

I live in SW Arlington which is a bit of a drive from Dallas. Unfortunately I'm strapped for time through the end of next week. Not sure how much help I can be but willing to lend a hand if you're still having problems then.

Mike - There is hope yet! My eyesite was 20/15 one eye and 20/17 the other until I was about 45. Since then it has gone south and now I'm 20/20 and 20/25 and have to wear reading glasses. Your friend has them in his future.

Mike - There is hope yet! My eyesite was 20/15 one eye and 20/17 the other until I was about 45. Since then it has gone south and now I'm 20/20 and 20/25 and have to wear reading glasses. Your friend has them in his future.

I was driving my '83ZX the other day when it was overcast and noticed that the air coming out of the vents was really cold. Later in the day when the sun was out and it was several degrees warmer it was not as cold. I also noticed that driving down the interstate at speed it was a bit colder than when in city traffic. Since I am running the car on "recirc" the air coming out of the vents is the same air as in the cabin so it is less affected by ambient temperature changes. It appears that the "cold air" is directly related to the ability to reject heat at the condenser. This is a Texas car and I have a feeling that Nissan really didn't design the condensers to handle southwest ambient temperatures which would indicate a larger condenser would be in order or else an additional fan. Anyone else tried this? What were your results? Downside to a larger condenser?

In doing these transplants we have all done things that we could have done better - "Oh no, I wish I hadn't done that - But it's too late!" I'm not looking for a laugh at y'alls expense but it sure would be nice to avoid the same mistake by knowing that it is a mistake. Any takers?

This has turned into a highly informative string with a lot of random information that will be very useful to me, and I'm sure to others also. I do want to throw out a word of caution, however. I know that a lot of the stuff I'm saying is based on my particular goals and opinions - which are probably not the same as anyone else. Take everything with a grain of salt and evaluate it in light of your own particular needs/desires. I get real nervous thinking about someone taking something I've said on this forum as gospel and then proceeding to do something that wouldn't be right for their application. Also, I'm still in the very early stages of my transplant so much of what I'm saying is "planning to" not "having done". As I generate my "LS-1/T-56 Updates" I'll report what I've actually done and what I see as the pros and cons - still somewhat based on opinion but will have actual results to back it up a bit. Keep up the great flow of information. Thanks to all!!

What is a nitrated crank? He says his is forged & nitrated. I've had a lot of parts nitrided but none nitrated.

I've seen them as close as 1/2" from the firewall. Look at the whole installation, engine and trans, when you do the trial fit and put it where it seems to go best for your needs.

A few extra points. It's important to consider the affects of engine heat on the cabin and the equipment under the dash. A reason to move the engine forward somewhat. The T-56 installation posts I've read all talk about pounding out the transmission tunnel - even sometimes cutting some of the cooling fins off the transmission in order to get it to fit. I am not going to cut cooling fins on the transmission. I'm in Texas - it needs the fins. Plus - remember - the exhaust is going to be routing through here too - giving off all kinds of heat for the transmission to pick u and requiring space. More reasons to move the engine forward a bit. It may be easy to just tin snip out the transmission tunnel for the shifter but what about the console? I don't want to cut mine up. It won't look right and I'll be having to get a custom shifter boot, a custom tunnel seal, etc. Another reason to move it forward some. Giving more room for the T-56 also makes it more feasible to passenger-side shift the engine a bit to help clear the steering shaft. Actually, if they will clear the hood I'd rather high mount my accessories because then they are more accessable for maintenance and are less likely to cook than being down in the valley. While we're on the A/C system (mines a 280Z also) I've observed an interesting phenomenum. When it's cool outside the air coming out of the vents in the car I'm driving now is a lot colder than when it's hot. Duh! but stay with me. This is in a ZX that recircs the inside air so the colder air is a function of the heat exchange going on at the condenser. What my Z really needs is a larger condenser and the stock system will make colder air (Don't think Nissan designed for Texas)and I won't have to spring for an aftermarket system. That's a lot more expensive than high mount brackets for the accessories.

Thanks guys. I'll read my homework and see if I can muddle through.

I think I'm going to mount my LS-1 about 2" forward of the firewall - for the following reasons: 1) It leaves enough room between the two for access to the A/C & heater hose connections. 2) It allows for a bit of an air gap to reduce engine heat load on the firewall and help keep the drivers compartment cooler. 3) It moves the exhaust further away from the steering knuckle. 4) It puts the T-56 shifter closer to the center of the existing hole in the transmission tunnel. 5) It also makes a bit more space for fitting the T-56 into the transmission tunnel. 6) It should allow a little more clearance between the strut towers and accessories to make for easier mounting of the accessories. 7) Since it's an all aluminum block engine I'm not concerned about a negative PMOI effect - especially since the car could still end up weight biased to the rear and it's really going to primarily be a daily driver - not a racer. 8) I'm staying with manual steering so don't need to adjust to make clearance for a power steering rack. Anyone see any holes in this reasoning?

Start with 87-89 turbo 300ZX. Stay away from white 88 model as it has a viscous unit rather than clutch. The 87-89's have a 3.7:1 R200. There are other Nissan models with LSD's and the new 300ZX's have an R230 style that requires additional work/modifications to install in th eolder Z's. BTW - good luck finding one. If all else fails you can always go to NISMO and pay through the ear for a racing version.

I see lots of posts with photos , etc. attached. How is that done? Can someone give me a VERY clear step-by-step on how to do this? I'm quite ignorant in all things computer. Thanks!!

Go to the second page of this board and look at the string about 6 or 7 down from the top that says "Easy options for front & rear brakes". That would be a good place to start.

Yeah - now if they just had a way to correct presbyopia.

Think about the Z-28's & Trans Ams that run around with 305-320 HP and how they are the bad boys. Those porkers weigh in around 3,500 lbs vs 2,800 for a 280Z or maybe 2,500 for a 240Z. If you target about the same HP you can run a reasonabley mild engine with lots of reliability and, believe it or not , the potential for some decent MPG. The new LS-1/T-56 Corvettes can get 27 MPG on the highway. That is why I'm using that combination in my 280Z conversion. Unfortunately it is just started so I won't be able to start developing any performance data for at least 6 months.

I know what you mean Mike. Mine's stood by my side for almost 30 years now. It was her encouragement, even though she thinks I'm nuts, that got me started on the journey with the LS-1/T-56 conversion. I think I'll have to take her to Hawaii this fall for our 30th to say thank you.

One of the earliest V-8 hybrid projects that was done commercially was the old Sunbeam Tiger. British sunbeam with a Ford 260 init - then a 289 - then a 302. I have a friend in Connecticut that has a sweet one with a 302 that he just recently ran at Lime Rock. It was never quite a challenge to the Cobra - another English body with a Ford V-8 - but it did enjoy a bit of notoriety for a while as it was a real sleeper.