Phantom

If the R200 is already properly mounted in the car see if you can find a CLSD R200 out of a Z31 ('84-'89) turbo. It'll be a straight swap.

Thanks for the suggestion. I figured I'd jet back up the existing stuff with some nylocks. This is a good alternative.

Ken, 6061-T6 is some pretty good stuff - and definitely lighter than steel - but not as strong. Whether they are strong enough I couldn't say. I don't have enough specific experience there. The steel ought to be less expensive though and just a tad heavier than the cast because of the increased density. If you really wanted to go for it you'd use thru-hardened 4340 and you'd never break them.

Ken, Those hubs obviously are castings. If you seriously want some3thing stronger then I'd have the part machined from billet 4140 steel. It will be significantly less likely to fail. It may bend but it won't fracture like a casting will. Who knows - maybe you could get a "group buy" going on them.

Had an opportunity to get four 30 minute sessions at TMS a while back. Total of 15 cars on the track ranging from an Altima SER to a Ferrari Testarossa. Talk about a good time!

I was headed home the other day. While sitting at a light waiting to make a left I notice a WASP had a car pulled over in the opposing lane on the other side of the intersection - but back a ways. Couldn't resist. Once I made my left turn and got clear of his line of sight I opened up the LS1 through 3rd gear. Car can be heard about 1/4 mile away when under full throttle. Just couldn't resist.

Ken, Sounds like you don't really need that wheel to do well. Just stick and channel iron skid in there and go for it! Don't know if you noticed on the other forums but that funny noise I was having in my car was the rear differential mount. Both the nuts holding the diff to the mustache bar were loose. could have been really interesting if the studs had slipped out of the mustache bar. Bill

Check the voltage on your battery. If it's b 12 volts or lower you need to replace it. It should test 12.5-12.7 volts if it's healthy.

Pull the bulb and check it and the socket for corrosion. Use a fine grit sandpaper to shine them both up and it should work OK. Not an unusual issue for these old cars. OH yeah - you might also check and see if you have the correct bulb. It should be a dual filament bulb, not a single.

I had my 280 in the air a couple weeks ago. Ran the front wheels up on 2x6's to allow the jack to get under the air dam and then jacked using the center of the front crossmember. Don't remember where I put the jackstands. When we jacked the rear we used the standard jacking locations at the rear pinch welds. Then put the jackstands under the LCA's so that the wheels would be at a correct running angle. Did it VERY carefully to ensure everything was secure prior to doing some 50 MPH turns to see what kind of vibration / runout was present in the drivetrain. Overall it was really good except for the loose rear differential stud bolts in the mustache bar.

If you're going to replace the motor and build a rocket then the Z is the one to use - bigger engine compartment means room for bigger motor. As they say: "There is no replacement for displacement." You can talk 1jz, 2jz, rb25, rb26, etc., but how does that compare to a twin turbo 5.3 LM7? I'm just sayin'.

I'm assuming the mechanical fuel pump is on the passenger side of the motor just forward of number 1 cylinder? That is the stock location for that fuel pump and, on the earlier 240Z's that is the only fuel pump they use. The biggest requirement is that whatever pump you use the delivery pressure has to be correct for carburetors. The '73 240Z and the 260Z came with both the mechanical pump and a rear mount electric pump. The purpose of the electric pump was just to push rule through the filter and charge the mechanical pump. No certain of the rational behind it since carbonated cars ran mechanically driven fuel pumps for 50 years with no issues. Must have been some kind of emissions thing. Anyway, if you install a self regulating pump with the right pressure you should be just fine. Otherwise just fix what you got and go from there - although the original Nissan fuel pumps are not real available and pretty expensive.

I knew a couple guys in Ft Worth that we're running L28's with 22-25 lbs of boost. They were getting a bit over 300 RWHP. Stroke it and you'll probably get in the 350-400 range. I'm not an expert on the L28 but 600 RWHP may be a bit optomistic?

So the question remains - what do you define as "high" HP? There are lot's of us with 325-400 RWHP cars running on 4 lugs with no issues. If you are building something well North of that then you need to go with a 5-lug conversion and get it over with.

You do know that the hot glue will soften in the Texas heat and your halos will detach from the headlight - correct? Combine that with the heat of the headlights and they're not long for this world. Also: 140mm divided by 25.4mm/inch gives about 5.5". Since the Z's have 7" OD lights I'd assume the 140mm is the ID of the Halo.

If we're voting I vote for "A". A little more light and that could be important in fog. Love the look!

Sorry about the video. It started and ended quicker than I thought it did. Somehow I got it started before i got the camera set instead of after and I though I'd gotten at least 3 back-firths instead of one. An AV guy I ain't. Yes, you're correct that I have U-joints instead of CV's.

John - true but even with 335 wide tires, if they are street tires, they will be limited to about 500 HP actually making it to the road. As long as it's driven as a cruiser he should be fine. It will be the occasional track day that will start breaking things. Lot's of things to think about on this build and, after seeing the photo of the engine build work, I imagine a lot of thinking' is being done Lucy.

You guys got more than one stoplight yet or are you still using the little girl with the crossing guard uniform?

Lived in Arlington for 23 years. Yes, y'all, I understand.

Any resolution on this?

Better get that beer ready. Those 3.1 liter high compression stroker motors are definitely up in that range.

I know exactly what you mean. I'm still thinking about going in and backing up the nut and lock washer set-up with a nylon insert locknut. I don't ever want this to happen again. It really messes with my Z quality time. This time it caused me to miss a Maryhill Loop hill climb near Goldendale, WA. Bummer

You guys from Tejas - always jerking each others chains.

Really nice clean installation Gary. Thanks for the pics.