Phantom

Ken, Did you get my PM about the cryogenically hardened hubs? Another thing - I didn't realize you were running 3.54 gears in the rear. With a 6500-7000 redline do you think you might get just a bit more with 3.70 gears?

I threatened Wheelman yesterday to rejuvenate this thread when the right front hub on his SBC powered 240Z failed yet agin. Fortunately the wheel stayed on this time - only two of the lug bolt ears broke. Kiddingly I told him to quit hitting curbs and he wouldn't have that problem - oops, there weren't any curbs for him to hit so that let's that theory out. He had just replaced the failed hub from the previous thread and the car was in it's second weekend of racing. It ran in two class with two drivers. Both won their classes and the car set the record time for the day beating out many more "impressive" (read expensive) cars. At the end of the first day the right front didn't seem right to Ken so he pulled the wheel and realized that he only needed to remove two lug nuts to separate it from the car. identical failure as before - two of the hub ears had broken through. OK Guru's - it's time to solve this problem. This car is the one to beat at this track and it's always fun when a 40 year old 240Z beats a track prepared Z06, Lotus, etc.

I agree. That was the main thing I kept reiterating to Samuel is that I want BRIGHT lights as the stock ones are just too dim. Very glad to see how bright they are now.

Take your 280Z radiator and have it recored to a 4-row instead of a 3-row. That is what JCI did or my car which was the prototype for their components. Any reputable radiator shop should be able to do it. I've been running mine for over 10 years now and have never had an overheating issue. I ran it in 110 degree Texas weather, stop n go traffic with the AC running full bore and one fan relay out and it still never overheated. It also solves any mounting issues and you can go back to JCI and tell them you want the hoses for the radiator they used to provide. Either they'll send them tell you or they'll tell you what they were using so you can get your own. Say "Hi" to John Radevich for me when you talk to them and let him know his prototype is still running strong.

The issue is the steering rod on the drivers side - which is why many folks have gone with either a Jags That Run or a Johns Cars set of headers. I've been running my JCI headers for over 10 years now with no issues. They do, however, only have 1 1/2" primaries where other offerings are larger.

Yeh - but he only wants 1.

Do the have LHD as well as RHD? Also what about 240 vs 280 dash?

Yeah - I just went through the forums and everything except this and one other post was a week old. Oops!

What are willing to pay?

Basically you're saying that it's a 0 offset on 11" wheels since you have 5.5" backspacing. Must have some serious spacers in there? That much wheel back from the hub would be planted in the middle of the coil overs on my car.

Be patient and keep looking for a Camaro or Firebird. If possible get a '99 or newer. The '98 block was not as well done as the later ones, although I have a '98 and it's been just fine for 10 years now. I definitely vote for an aluminum block no matter which way you go. You'll find that the car will actually end up heavier in the rear than the nose. Plan the whole project first - engine, transmission, rear end, suspension, brakes, wheels & tires. If you make all those decisions up front with thorough research you'll only have to do it once and that will save time and money.

I've been exchanging emails with him. He is NOT in postion to just sell the components at this time but is working on it. The tail light kits all include LED backup lights even if they are not mentioned in the description. At this point he does NOT have LED kits for the front turn signals or the side lights - in for a penny, in for a pound. I am working with him at this point on the other lights but it will be the end of October before I'll be able to send him my lights for conversion. Shortly after that I'll provide him with photos of the installation for all to comment on.

The 3.990 was designed to go with the 5-sod installed in the 82-83ZX. The transmission gearing was different than previous S30/S130 trannies and the 3.90 gave the car better acceleration and lower RPMs at highway speed.

My son has a 240 with subtle Z front fenders and YZ rear fenders. He has 17x8.5" wheels in the front wand 17x9.5" wheels in the rear. He currently is running 245's in the front and 275's in the rear but plans to move the 275's to the front and put either 305's or 315's in the rear, whichever size fits best. He has a stock suspension at this point with the Arizona Z Willwood 6 pistons in the front and 4 pistons in the rear of 12.2" rotors.

225/55-15 if you can find some will fit your fender well and keep your speedo accurate. 205/60's are a standard "Plus 1" size and will maintain the speedo accuracy. If you want to fill the wheel well go for the 225's. If he is willing to fit the tires for you try a 235/50-15. It will be a very tight fit with your fender wells and suspension and may not work. With the 0 offset the issue is going to be the edges of the fenders, not the suspension if you install coil overs. I'm running a 0 offset wheel on my 280 and the 225/50's sometimes touch the inner fender lip on a hard bump.

I know what you mean. I went to a weekly car show at the local McDonalds last Friday and had more interest in my car than the Sunday before when I was at a Zcar show. Interstingly enough I was parked next to a 1966 Mercedes 280SL convertible that had an LS1 and a T56 in it. The guy had over $120K in the car. He basically lifted the Mercedes body and hooked up an entire Camaro drivetrain under it. Sweet car. He's looking to sell it for $80K, OBO.

1. New or used? New will be really pricey. 2. If used, how used? How many miles on it. Since you're talking a system that is not only pulled for you but everything is tagged you are probably talking prices in the 5 digits.

Mattster03 - Take me, take me!!

I'm running 225/50-16 Dunlop Direzzas. They are a high performance summer tire and really sticky. With the right launch set-up you should be able to get your 60' to 2 seconds or less. That is what you need to target. Then if you get your reaction time down to about .1 second (learning to pace the lights) you can go heads up with other cars. My first time out my R/T was slow and the car in the other lane was halfway down the strip before I got going. His R/T was less than .1 and he had a big block that put him in the mid 10's. Pretty humbling. Improving your R/T won't improve your 1/4 mile time but it will make you more competitive in heads up racing.

Yup, the mounts he developed for my car were all bolt in. No new holes drilled in my car. I do have a torque tube set-up instead of a trans crossmember mount, though.

Differential can be very dependent on the type of driving you do. If you're going to be heavy footed and even compete the car the R180 will eventually go. The R200 LSD will last behind an LS1/T56. I've been driving mine for over 10 years now and it's still holding up. I have broken a halfshaft u-joint, though. Best to go with CV's for the half shafts. So some research and you'll probably have even more questions. There are several options other than the R200, including an R230 out of a 90-96 300ZX turbo car or the 8.8 DOMZS is going with.

Looks like what you have is a pretty much stock Z body that someone has put a roll bar and a fuel cell in. Probably was used for autocross or maybe SCCA racing. Doubt if it was 1/4 mile car with a Z motor & tranny. I agree that the gearshift lever is the right shape for a stock Z gearshift. That can fool you sometimes, though, as my car uses the stock Z shift lever on a T56 with a Hurst shift kit. The Z lever put the handle in the right spot. Your biggest objective initially is going to be to ensure you take care of the rust and ensure the body is solid. If you're planning on putting some significant HP into the car you must start there. These cars are not all that rigid to start with so you MUST make sure it's solid before you start with the rest.

Nope, this was a Looky only, no touchy show car.

Sorry, no other pics. The car was absolutely gorgeous but it should have been. The owner had &100k+ in it.

The Z Car Club of Washington held a car show at Eastside Nissan in Bellevue last Sunday. They ended up with 45 cars entered with about a third of them being the S30 body. Interestingly there were no S130's. There were two V8 cars, mine and a yellow S30 that had a twin turbocharged SBC. There was also a 240 that was supercharged. Very old school but done beautifully. The owner of the car was from British Columbia and he walked away with 3 trophy's. My car didn't win anything but I did get a good door prize:-).