Phantom

Cured my AC blower problem. Still using the 37 year old original blower but moved from Texas to Washington.

I'm running the electric fans that came out of the donor Camaro for my LS1. They fit my radiator beautifully and plug into the ECM harness and work flawlessly. The set-up can keep the engine from overheating in 100+ weather with the AC on full in stop and go DFW traffic with only one fan running.

I guess they are cheaper than the JCI stuff?

Hmm = I have a 2/70 production date series 1 that is in the shop getting the gas tank cleaned and a new fuel pump. Hopefully at that point I can get a clean title for it and it will go up for sale. It has rust in both rear quarter panels and that is pretty much it other than minor surface rust in several area. Hood, front fenders, doors, hatch, rockers, battery tray & floor pans are good.

Back to your motor mount question. There are several companies that offer motor mounts for LS style blocks. One of the first was JCI (www.brokenkitty.com)As you read threads (especially if you do a motor mount search, you'll find others.Since your dad has built several cars I assume that you have taken the time to think your build through to ensure you end up with an enjoyable finished product. I've seen too many guys that build a car around something they got a good deal on and then regretted it later.

Hmm - went to the website and nothing came up in the way of photos for their products. All it had for Datsun/Nissan parts was a photo of a 510 and an S30.

I installed a fuel pressure gauge on my Z back when it had the L28 in it. Frankly don't remember if it consistently read 36 or 39 psi. What I do know, however, is that it really didn't bleed down over time. I could pop the hood a day later and it might be down 1 psi. I do understand what Six-Shooter is saying. My LS1 280Z bleeds down pretty fast but that's because I'm running an aftermarket fuel pump with no check valve. I turn my ignition to the accessory position and listen to the system pressurize before hitting the ignition. It usually takes about 4 seconds. If I wait it starts immediately. If I don't it will crank a couple about 3 seconds before catching. Not sure what to tell you how to easily bench test your injector for leaking. It would be a wild shot but you might pull all the plugs and see if one indicates the presence of fuel or an overly rich mixture. That could give you an indication but is definitely not the best way to do it. If you have a strong raw gasoline smell on your dipstick you could also have your oil analyzed and get a report on the condition of the oil. I know every mechanic I've worked with gets really nervous if they notice that. It can be caused, however, by an overly rich mixture as well as leaky injectors. My sons LS1 240Z has been sitting in the garage for 3 years now waiting for him to come up with the cash to get it properly dyne tuned to eliminate the rich mixture condition it has.

The fuel system is NOT supposed to bleed down over time. That is why it is taking a bit of time to crank the engine as the pump has to build pressure. If your pressure is bleeding off then you either have: a. leaky injectors b. a bad check valve in the fuel pump c. the pressure regulator is bleeding by - it should maintain about 35-39 PSI if I remember right. d. you have a leaky hose or fitting somewhere. Reading what you've said I would start with C and replace it. Pull your plugs and look at them. If they look wet then you still have a problem with you still have a problem with your coolant temp system and you're running too rich. Pull your dipstick about 30 minutes after you shut down and see if you smell fuel on it. If so, you probably have one or more leaking injectors. When I had my original L28 and 4-sod in my '77 280Z I never did better than 23-24 MPG. The engine had 202K on it when I pulled it so it was a high mileage L28. It also had original injectors,etc. The only thing I had done ws track down the bullet connectors in my wiring harness about 18" from the thermostat that were oxidized and causing a huge problem with my coolant temp sensor.

The half shaft u-joints will definitely be your weak link. With 425 HP to the rear wheels you stand a good chance of breaking them on a regular basis if you hammer it off the line. That also depends, however, on the tires you're running. They can easily be made to be the weak link - IE - they light up before you break something. I have 325 to the rear wheels and I've broken one. Be sure they renew and NOT the type with zero fittings. The permanent lube ones are a bit stronger.

Now that you mention it - I wonder if he would have done that if he knew I have a concealed carry permit? Naw - he'd have done it anyway.

Yeah - and half the time they blow and you can't even tell it. I hate fusible links! Still using the same battery? Check the voltage it's putting out. If it's 12 or lower it's basically shot and just not giving you enough juice to get the car going. NewZed is definitely about getting a meter and testing things. I'd start with that fusible link.

Yeah, especially in a diminishing radius corner.

Get lots of photos. Even though it's been is "storage" for 25 years it could have had a rough life before that. I've had my eye on a 240Z for 5 years now that's been in "storage" for the past 15 hers. Unfortunately its a covered outdoor storage and the car gets hammered with the full afternoon sun. Tires are rotting, interior is cracking.

Don't think that will happen any time soon for me as it's a 2,000 mile drive each way now for me to get there. It was much more doable when I lived in Arlington. Guess you're safe for now.

I was running down a local interstate the other day behind a Superduty F150 in the left lane and he was just not wanting to move out of the way. A hole finally opened up and I moved over to go around him on the right only to get a face full of diesel smoke as he floored it to get alongside the next vehicle in my lane and block me. I don't know what he has against little red sports cars but it certainly hacked me off. Wouldn't have bothered me as much if it hadn't been a nasty %&*^&(* diesel. Anyway we got to a spot where a merging lane came in from the right and 3rd gear got me past both cars quite briskly and I went on my way. Why do people have to be that way?

Heck yes - it's been a while as I've moved from DFW to WA in that time.

Worked with a guy for a while down in DFW area. He and his dad had built a Chevette with a blown 454. That had to be a bit exciting to drive.

I guess I've really moved up then as I drive an A - as in an Audi A8L.

So you're looking at running a transmission cooler on a standard transmission? Never heard of that being done although I'm sure it has been done on very high performance vehicles - as well as differential coolers TonyD. My question is why bother? Unless you're planning on going to the Salt Flats or some other extremely high speed event you'll just be adding additional complexity and weight to your vehicle for no measurable benefit. Heck - I added an engine oil cooler to my Z back in the 90's and saw no benefit at all - and that was in Texas. Ended up giving it to a guy after I pulled the L28 and installed the LS1. Hardest I ever ran that combination was at Texas Motor Speedway in four 30 minute sessions and the only thing that showed any heat stress was my brakes. Maybe I should have had coolers on them?

Might go to a hardware store and compare bolt diameters vs head size. I would think Nissan used standard sized bolts.

I was talking with a guy earlier this week that has the Buick 215 in an Austin Heally bugeye Sprite. Somehow he made it work cause he's been driving it for years now. Where there is a will -there's a way. Good luck.