Phantom

Becausse then my brain becomes the weak link and I would personnally rather trust the relay! Now if you want to wire the switch in parallel to the relay so it can be bypassed as a failsafe then I'm all for that.

Jay - Just to be safe - what is your definition of a -5 offset? Does it move the tire closer to the car or further out? Most Z cars run a 0 to +12mm offset with their wheels. A -5mm is going to push the tire into your outer wheel well lip.

If you're not drag racing then the R180 would probably be the preferred unit. It is about 30 lbs. lighter than the R200 and is also the stock unit in the 240 and 260Z. Fewer modifications.

I second Tim. The simplest thing to do is use the OEM part with the OEM computer. They were designed to work together and have done so flawlessly. The relays, in my mind, are a separate issue. Any electric fan should be actuated by a relay so that problem will be inherent in any electric fan set-up. The option would be to come up with a retrofit kit to put a clutch fan on an LS1? - Not me. I'm all about KISS!

That's the problem - we do have the metric system down here. Ford is famous for their metric/US combo cars. It is fun though when you have the old British system - now known as the US system, European metric - which the Brits use, and Asian metric. It certainly encouages one to be thorough in their research.

I think the real problem was that I was trying to get the part off a verbal description rather than someone's part number they could cross-reference. Many of the folks working the parts stores have limited experience and so they generally default to a "we don't have it" if it requires them to pull from their own knowledge. One of the problems in a big metropolitan area that has a lot of turn-over and a transient work force.

Yeah, I tried NAPA but I didn't have either the AGS or Papco part number so the guy at my local store told me he just carried US threads - no metric. As it turns out, I just called a non-chain auto parts store near where I work, gave him the AGS number (BLJ320) and he has one in stock for $3.69. I'm picking it up at lunch today. Dale, Thanks buddy - you're a life saver! Again - thanks to Ross Corrigan for his efforts to help out also. Saw a bumper sticker once that said, "Discover America, Get Lost on a Rally" This is how I learn even more about car parts, sources, etc. Sometimes a little painful but almost always beneficial.

Dale, You're right - that's the part. Pop, The "hard line" replaces the existing hard line on the drivers side from the 'T' out toward the wheel and then the hose with the "different" end connects to it. On the passenger side the short hard line is removed and the hose with the "regular" ends replaces it and the original hose. Ross has emailed me like 5 or 6 times trying to help me resolve this. A part number that he used up in Canadian land is a 'Papco' MA320. He has offered to overnight me one and split the price. I'm going to do a quick check agian this AM - I made probably 15 phone calls and spent 1 1/2 hours on the internet trying to track down this part last night. I got absolutely no help from AutoZone or O'Reilly's. AutoZone only carrys the tubing - no fittings, and, when I tried using a Bendix part number off one of the reader conversions on the Modern-Motorports website they tried to sell me a hose - they used the part number as if it was one of their parts. The O'Reilly's guy tried to sell me a piece of 3/8" diameter tubing. Aaargh! Anyway - this is what makes these conversions interesting!

Part of the Modern-Motorsports rear brake upgrade "kit" that utilizes the 300ZX rotor and 240SX caliper is a 20" long piece of steel brake line that has a male, Japanese style, M10x1.0 fitting on each end. According to Ross it is a "$3.00 part available at any auto parts store". That evidently is somewhere other than Texas. I have called no less than ten parts stores and three brake shops and have been unable to find this item. My alternative at this point is to have one built from the pieces - if I can find someone who has the pieces - unless someone in the DFW area has done this upgrade and remembers where they got the steel brakeline piece. Help - anyone?

David, FWIW - when mine dyno'd at 311/326 it was with the restricted exhaust that combined the dual 2 1/2" pipes into a SINGLE 2 1/2" pipe right behind the transmission and then ran at a SINGLE 2 1/2" all the way back and over to the muffler - probably at least 6'. The dual 2 1/2" all the way to the muffler set-up I have now should do better. Also, my ECM had been 'tweaked' to the 01-02 specs so the only real difference, besides the exhaust, will be the LS6 intake manifold and the colder air inlet.

Tannji, I may have some photos, I'm not sure. I have a new computer. The old one died and it may have taken most of my conversion pics with it. Even if I can find them, though, I doubt you could build off them. It is a very complex design with lots of little spacers and special fabricated parts, etc. that allows the mounting points on the tailshaft of the transmission and the input shaft of the differential to be sandwiched between two 3" channels that have their legs turned inward so they literally encapsulate the drive shaft & universals. Again - this was done in a 280Z so it would be a bit different in a 240Z - and it was done with the Z31 3.70:1 R200 LSD. Bill

You should make the 300 rwhp ok with the 3" intake. Mine dyno'd at 311 with the restrictive exhaust and pulling the air from behind the radiator so, with a good exhaust and the colder air, yours should be fine.

My wife, Chris, is definitely a keeper - this November will make 32 years!

David, Looks like you're making some good progress. Getting anxious yet!?? One thing I really like about my set-up is that I have no trans crossmember and no front differential mount to go bad. The tranny and diffy are locked together with two C channel in a torque tube design that puts the 'twist' into the differential and not into the body. I also won't ever have the 'clunks' again.

LS1's are very air sensitive. If you ask the same question on LS1tech.com they will cry like babies for you even suggesting it. That aside - how much is about 3-5 HP worth to you? Then again, depending on your exhaust it may make little to no difference.

Dale, Fans are plugged into the Camaro wiring harness and running off the ECM. Both of the original relays showed a little mechanical abuse although I'm at a loss how it could have happened. Anyway - they lasted a year before giving up so I'll monitor the new ones and see how they do. I think the fan set-up is ok - I'm just a little spooked by both relays failing within a couple months of each other and, of course, it was a 100°F day each time. Mark, Thanks for the compliments - just trying to pass on information that may help others. My inspiration is my wife - she has stood beside me and literally pushes me periodically to get the upgrades done. When the brakes are done I'm going to be redoing the interior and then going to th e sound system. It all takes time and $$ - both of which always seem to be in short supply. Bill

I now have about 11,000 miles on the swap. New speedo is inand working fine. Car is currently a candidate for the JSR team. Major front and rear brake upgrade in progress. Hopefullly it will be done next week. Lost another cooling fan relay last week on the way to the shop. Not the same one that failed about 6-8 weeks ago. It's a little spooky that they failed that close to each other. Just on the off chance that this may be a forewarning I bought 2 relays so I'll have a spare in the glove box. The car runs fine on only one fan but I'm not going to risk an overheat by running on one for any length of time that would allow the second one to fail.

Take the cover off your ignition switch. It sounds like it and the turn signal indicator side are not properly located - or else the switch itself is somwhow rotate. When you turn th eswitch on it obviously should UNlock the steering wheel, not lock it.

Call a lawyer. They owe you for damages to the vehicle - I hear injectors clogged, valves burned, all kinds of horrible things that they're going to want to settle quickly on.

My original exhaust looked much like Joey's but choked down to a single 2 1/2". Since then I dumped another $500 and put in an 'X' pipe where the 'Y' used to be and ran dual 2 1/2" all the way back to a dual-inlet muffler that dumps aingle outlet in the stock position.

Finally helped out on one! FWIW - with the 1 1/2" primaries and a choked exhaust that ran the last 5-6' through a SINGLE 2 1/2" exhaust pipe the car still dyno'd at 311 rwhp 326 tq. That's been fixed now but I haven't dyno'd again to see how much it helped. I think Cyrus had true duals and so does Lone Star 1. I think they both dyno'd in the 330 range on hp and 340 on torque. From what I can tell from the LS1 guys, going to 1 5/8 or 1 3/4" primaries don't do a lot unless its on a long tube header - and then only at the higher rpms. From what I see on my car I have a choice between block huggers and ground clearance - or long tubes and no ground clearance.

Mike, Methinks you are beginning to enjoy this too much!

The headers went back & forth between John and Sanderson 3-4 times. I thought they went into the car the way Sanderson sent them to him the last time around. Only thing I can remember John may have done was rotate the discharge flange 90° on the drivers side. I don't remember if that was after the last round or one of the preceeding iterations, though. Anyone have pictures of the Sanderson out of the car? I might be able to identify differences between them and mine if I could see some. One more thing to remember though is that my headers have 1 1/2" primaries and I think everone is getting either 1 5/8 or 1 3/4" primaries now. That may have changed the configuration enough to cause the problems?

So is everyone using the Sanderson Part Number CC1LS1tuck? That is the part number for the Sanderson headers on my car.

Lone Star!!!! Great to see you are still lurking around! Hadn't seen a post from you in some time. I'm really looking forward to seeing how the car runs with the magnacharger. What are you using for tires now? Finally get some good DR's?