Phantom

Yup - you wetcoast guys need to keep track of each other.

Dang Grumpy - I turn 56 this Sunday so I'm even older than you are! That really makes me feel old!

first Saab I ever saw was the 3 cylinder 2-cycle one made back in the late 50's. It was a hoot to listen to. rrrrrrrrr - ring ding ding ding - rrrrrrrrr- ring ding ding ding.

I vote with the Brad-man. Low beam filaments burn out long before the high-beam would ever even comntemplate it. Just put another headlight in and go about your business.

The only tag the Texas inspector should look at is the one on the dash. As long as it's for a 240Z and it hasn't been reported as stolen you should be ok. Otherwise it's slammer time!! Seriously - I'd be all over the previous owner to find out what the deal is. Did you get a title with it? Check the VIN on the title. If it matches the dash VIN you'll be ok.

If you're serious about the LS1 take a look at http://www.brokenkitty.com. Johns Cars makes good components for the LS1 conversion.

VEry nice 2+2. don't look now though but someone put the steering wheel on the wrong side.

I'm installing a true 'X' pipe with dual 2 1/2" to the back into a single Magnaflow SS muffler (5x8) that has dual 2 1/2" in and single 3" out. That goes in next Tuesday, June 22nd, so I should have an idea by this time next week what the sound is like. Savage 42 heard an sbc Z set up similarly to this with dual 2" into a 2 1/2" out and thought it sounded really nice. We'll see.

TOMAHAWKZ - So I could just replace the rear drum 10 lb. spring with a front disk 2 lb spring and install disk brakes on the rear, right? That way I'm not having to change out the entire MC for one that pushes about 12% more oil?

FWIW - I did the Toyota 4x4 upgrade on my front brakes (drums on the rear) and kept the 7/8" MC. Toyo brakes work great but you may want the proportioning vavle because now the rears don't do much, if anything. It may be a different problem than just the upgrade becuase I've been running it for years and it initially seemed OK but I'm not going to worry about it because of the big upgrade all around coning this summer. ALSO - I pulled out my '77 280Z Factory Service Manual and checked out the 7/8" Master cylinder - BOTH front and rear lines have check valves in them. Hope that helps a bit.

Back in the 60's the Air Force had a hauler for the Minuteman missle that was powered by a inline pair of of GM V-6's. It moved out quite briskly -even with the missle on top.

This has been a very interesting thread - especially since I'm about to do a brake upgrade, like what Z-ya has, on my '77 280Z. I had already decided to forego the proportioning valve until after the conversion to see what the balance was like first. I think I'll also wait on the 15/16" MC too and just stick with the 7/8 for now.

OK - here's the scary part - I have that low groan that is coming from the area of the differential - only when in a very tight, low speed turn. Have a 3.70 R200 LSD

The good news is that you can probably eliminate the catalytic converters - hard to find a place for them anyway. That also eliminates the second set of O2 sensors. You'll need the first ones for the engine to operate properly. Make sure when you have your ECM edited that they input the 2001-2002 settings. They are a bit more aggressive than the older ones. Everything else is basically not worth trying to fool with. It's a great engine. Lots of power and decent fuel economy.

Look again - two feet and the left leg shin is showing.

Yeah Scottie!! We attention whores need to stick together!!

I haven't looked at Center Lines lately. Do they have any of the new rotary forged wheels in 16 or 17 that would fit? I've had some folks tell me that the earlier wheels occaisionally tend to change shape - especially if you drive them daily across RR trakcs, speed bumps, etc. I do know for certain that Mine take a Hurculean effort to balance.

If it was a real, fully restored, Scarab conversion it might be worth it. Otherwise - good Lord - it doesn't even have an LS1??

I have a set of Center Line wheels that I bought through Discount Tire 3-4 years ago. 16x7 with 0 offset, 4x4.5 lug pattern. The wheels were specially made to my specifications. Maybe they quit doing it for a while? They certainly were doing it then.

I have original '77 Datsun 280Z radiator recored to 4-rows and a '98 Camaro Z28 set of fans & shroud. It's all in the my previous posts. Have you done a search under LS1 yet?

Wow - It sure looks pretty!!

If your brakes are taking a lot of peddle pressure to actuate them it sounds like the vacuum booster is not functioning. I'd check the vacuum line going to it first and then the booster itself. Otherwise, if you are just mashing them and it's not working that well I'd start by thoroughly bleeding them again -if you haven't already. They can get extremely mushy and have a lot of pedal travel if they have air in them which is easy to do either from just very old fluid or driving them exceptionally hard - or the fluid getting too low in the MC. Obviously checking the cylinders for leaks is an excellent step too. Your Parking brake is the adjuster for the rear drum brakes. Cycle the handle up and down about a dozen times and see if things are better. If the adjusting mechanism is working it should improve.

Eric, I have absolutely no idea where to start except to suggest you spend more time with the search button. How can I help when I don't even know what car you want ot put the engine in?

So how long did it take you to do the conversion? Parking brake cable hook up OK?

Then there is the San Andreas fault - We'll keep our twisters.