Heroez

I actually got some good thread results from google, better than in site search box. Strange. I just need to know if its a simple bolt on, what size spacer, whats involved, Possible problems etc. I just want the info before making a purchase...

I have 200k on the turbo 280zx and the turbo may be making a noise. Anyway, I was studying the GT30 type turbocharger as a good replacement for the old TB03 that came stock on my car. Searches here dont pull up much info on a gt30 turbo unless its about the RB25 motor. So Im looking for information. Anyone done it? Whats involved? Custom made downpipe and exhaust will be done at the same time if need be.

2.4, 2.6, 2.8 its mostly the same when it comes to the L-engine basics. Researching 240z 2.4 engines and looking at similar year 280zx EFI/turbo will yeild something applicable. Identicle even in some ways. But you are at hybridz. The possibilities. I have a 2.4 maxima head, very neat. It is desireable in certain applications. You can build what you have to 200 hp or so, then the cars body/chasis suspension/brakes etc need upgraded to stay in balance. Budget, a goal, it will be clear once you do a l o t of reading. Nothing personal but Im not a fan of goons. You could sell it and buy a turbo ZX? Most work would already be done, upgrade when you like! 180 hp out of the box baby! Whats this? T-tops? Whoo hoo!

Thats an interesting experience. Im just going to ignore it for now. I have another turbo motor on an engine stand. Had been in a barn for years. I may just put some time into it, cleaning it up, replace the timing chain/tensioner, gaskets. Maybe even some nice tough pistons. That way Im ready to go when something gives on this motor. It never ends man. Some days I want to sell the classic Z cars and all the crap I accumulated that goes with them, buy a used 370 and retire from this.

Any rubbing during turning/suspension travel, Chris?

Would have been a good time to put in a 60 amp or better internal regulater alternator. No more browny frowny. My battery is fine. Just got a ton going on.

AFM. That means you have stock EFI. 75-83. Idle air adjustment at throttle body. Naturally aspirated. Its like a puzzle. Facts like idle speed, timing, amount of fluctuation will help. Check for leaks at idle with a gauge. If you are in spec, move on. Cover that base first. Visual inspection is a good step one, good for you. Stay on the good path.

The slapping sound occurs less. Maybe less than half the time when starting the car. Which is an improvement. Next oil change I will go back to 15w 50, with another 1/4 quart of ATF. I would like to find some hyd lifter arms, spend some time cleaning them and letting them soak. Then replace mine. May place a WTB ad.

My tach in the 260z (280z Type Tach) will jump to the turn signal at times. Most of the time it just lays there. Ive been trying to think of why it does that. Care to offer a clue? Stock electronic distributor.

That is a lot. I would say check/clean every year or two (if your car isnt garaged) would be plenty unless you find it to be problematic. If you feel creative, make a tube that runs from the cowl dump, down through the drain hole in the fender. That way the water/dirt would drain through the tube and never touch your metal. Ive had a door drain clog up too. Slosh sound opening the door. Poked the drain hole a bit and pissed out at least a gallon. Also regularly check the spare tire well. Hatch windows often leak and water may collect there. Another place to check after a good watering is the carpet. Just feel around. I had a massive leak on one zx because of a bad windsheild install. My first clue to find it was a wet hand.

Ah, I have fixed that several times. I have always made my own patch, but if the entire bottom lip is gone, I would have to make it, or get a pre made patch panel. The cowl drains down into the fender. Over time, pine needles, twigs, leaves, pollen build up at the bottom. They decay into sludge dirt which holds moisture. Then it rusts out. As a matter of fact, I know where some good fenders are to replace or donate to your fenders. I dont need your whole car. If you could remove the fenders, that is all I would need.

Possibly. What do you need done?

There is a tool for removing body moulding and emblems without Pegs. Its a wide flat plastic tool. Ask your matco man about the 5 peice plastic interior/trim removal tools. Cheap and handy. I dont use them at the body shop but I use them at home!

If you look once, at one time period, pickings will be slim. If you are looking regular all the time, you will see the good deals and they dont hang around long. Recently saw a running LD28 maxima in my area for 500 bucks. The ad was gone the next day.

That is how mine used to be Calvin. The slapping sound is back at start up this morning. I guess it only goes away right after oil change. I dont get it.

I will try to get a recording. This car used to be quiet, now during warm up its ticking medium soft. Danny Gossett used to be my Matco guy, great guy. Changed job location and the Matco rep is Kevin.

Since the oil change to 10w 30 I hadn't heard the valve train slapping noise. Its been a couple days now. But... There is a light ticking during warm up period that eventually gets quieter and hard to notice. So maybe the switch to 10w 30 from 15w 50 had an effect on the lifter slap the most? The turbocharger has gotten quiet, you can still hear it a little. The dash gauge says its boosting, I see positive manifold pressure. Odd. At 200k, maybe the engine is just worn out. Its hard to admit that. Mostly because the turbo car is still new to me. I couldn't afford to buy one, so I had to make one if I wanted to know. Found one that was sick, and affordable. Spent a year testing, poking, swapping, reading about. I know what the insides of weird parts look like! I even have pictures of the guts inside the FPM,VCM,and such. Found unrelated minor stuff I wasnt looking for too. I threw down my ECCS enemy and smote his ruins upon the tarmac. Victory! Now I know what turbo is like. So these new noises, concepts, have me questioning. I dont see the obvious things as clearly as you guys do. These noises send up an alert on me but its just instinctual. If you are in touch with your car, new noises really get you thinking.

Thanks for keeping an eye on me. Correct. I have another NA z car, so. The fix may be to convert to mechanical lifters on the 83 p90a. I'm trying to learn about the motor, and valve adjustment is worthwhile to learn. Matco rep says he will have the master feeler gauge set on Monday. With tools I can learn. Not really sure which way to go, convert, replace the HLAs...update will follow.

Be patient, nobody is going to buy it for a grand. I got a l28et long block for 250 not long ago, everything minus turbo, wires and ECU. 120k wrecked car. Over the years picked up a wire harness, couple ecus and AFMs, FPM and bits, ms2 with harness and stim. Ford 6x coilpack, bmw IAC, air charge cooler etc. If you are patient you can pick up all kinds of deals. Maybe even piece one together. Dished short block this week, P90 next month. I dont think T square is going to open up a container any time soon and flood the market with nissan gold.

After 1200 miles I changed the oil Sunday, this time with Mobile1 10w 30. No clacking noise at start up this morning. I will update again soon. Side note- I have my tool man bringing me some feeler gauges. I should learn to adjust mechanical valves.

Tapping at morning and after work. I removed the aux fan for clearance. Sorting through search results. Watched a partial mechanical conversion on youtube. Manual specifies a special tool on valve adjustment. I think in one link someone used a 17mm crowsfoot and an extension on a torque wrench.

It made the slapping sound just now when I started the car after work! Sigh. Looks like I have to take a look at the HLAs. Im going to look for slack. May be able to do that this weekend. Oh well. At least it didnt do it for a couple days.

No noise this morning. The car feels like its running smoother too. Its looking good so far.

Well, no clacking noise on start up today. I took a look at my trip meter. I logged 16.8 miles with ATF in the oil yesterday. Over the next few days I will report what each start up is like. Its too early to tell if the issue is resolved. Mondays commute will be longer harder driving. Wish me luck!

In a different z I use valvoline vr1 which has a high zinc content. Its interesting to know that another brand has it. Like you said its important on antique motors for cam lubrication. I saw the zddp additive at the store too. I will do more research because I would like to know more. I will look into the products you mention. Im about to hop in the shower and after that I will see what the start up is like. Ive found a head with hydraulic lifters for sale. I was going to buy it for parts just in case I need something.