jt1

Homebrewing anything is sadly way beyond my limited computer skills. I bought the LM-1 and convertor from http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ They now offer the LM-2, which has a built in convertor. jt

I've done it on a carb'd V8 with a LM-1, and a rpm convertor. You need to weld a bung in the exhaust for the O2 sensor, and find a place to pick up the tach signal. I was using a MSD and used the tach output off the MSD. jt

With your timing light hooked up, start at idle and increase the rpm while watching the timing advance. You will reach a rpm where it stops advancing and stays steady. You want to set the total advance with the engine about 500 rpm above the rpm where the advance stops increasing. 32 is pretty conservative. Usually the fuelie style heads will like 35 or 36. jt

It looks like it's leaning out above 4K rpm. A good baseline AF to shoot for is 12.5:1. Making peak hp in the mid 4K range would indicate a pretty mild cam if everything else is right. Check your timing at full advance, that's a key part of your tune. jt

Check your timing, both at idle and full advance. Find out what kind of cam you have, and if it's degreed properly. See what your A/F ratios were on the dyno. See what mph the car ran, get it weighed and see if that agrees with the dyno, using one of the calculators. That will be a good start to finding out what's up. jt

What kind of rules does your class have about the motor? jt

I didn't notice your location at first, and I guess that changes the picture somewhat, especially as far as the market for selling it. Regardless, a circle motor needs oil restriction to the top end, a left turn pan with a matching pickup, good drainback on the pass side of the engine, good breathers on the driver side, a timing chain that will be stable for the rpm you turn, and a valve train to match up with the cam. Is it solid or hyd lifter now? jt

It's pretty unlikely you will be anywhere close to competitive with a smaller motor than the rules allow. Assuming you just want to take the car and run it to gain experience and have a good time, the 283 will work fine for that. The first thing to do is look at the heads and see if they have holes to mount an alternator. You'll need to run one, and some 283's don't have the holes. Mounting the alternator anywhere else is gonna get expensive. If no holes, the best route is sell the 283 and find another motor. Next is the oiling system. A circle motor needs some oil restriction. The Moroso screw in oil restrictors work pretty well. A new cam will need valve springs to match. The spring pockets on the 283 heads are small and they won't accept a lot of the aftermarket springs. Likely the best thing to do is put some new stock springs on it and run it like it is, and save money for the next motor. Check the timing chain to see if it's in good shape. A plastic gear one won't last long. Sometimes the 283's bring some good money from the resto guys working on 55 chevies and the like. You might do better to clean it up, find all the date codes, sell the motor, and put the money towards a better setup. jt

There's a pad on the block right above the passenger side water pump bolts. You may have to remove the alternator to see it. The engine code is stamped there, you can search it on mortec.com. It's an 87-up, since it has the centerbolt valve covers. The V8 isn't much heavier than the original L6, so power steering usually isn't an issue. It's easier to build upper body strength than add power steering, although a few guys here have done it. jt

The TBI setup is likely of mid to late 80's vintage. They worked pretty well in moderate applications, good driveability and a very flat torque curve, although never a real high rpm setup. It would probably go to around 250-300 hp pretty easy, which is exciting in a S30. If you want to it's easy to swap to a carbed or aftermarket efi setup. Once you get below the intake it's a regular SBC. If it's one of the aluminum head versions that would be a big plus. Welcome to HybridZ. jt

Shoot mark a pm. He's got a 230 under the yellow car. jt

Grumpy's links give some great info. A good plan is to check the comp catalog, see which springs they recommend for your cam, check the spring section and see what the spring specs are for seat pressure and rate, then choose a spring that dimensionally works on your heads that meet the requirements. As long as you meet the seat pressure and rate requirements, don't coil bind it or hit the retainers you're good to go. jt

If you're using the JTR engine mounts, the engine is offset one inch to the right. I offset the rear of the trans the same amount to keep the CL of the engine trans parallel to the chassis. This helps center up the shifter and makes it easier to get the driveshaft u joint angles the same. I don't remember if the JTR trans mount is offset or not, but I modified mine anyway to help out with exhaust clearance. jt

Check the wiring diagram to be sure it's wired up correctly, check all the connections, and make sure you've got a good ground. It's also a good idea to have a ground from the engine to the chassis. jt

Pete, Canton will shorten the wings on the pan. That's how I got a good RR pan to work with the S&S's, they took the f body pan and shortened the right hand wing. I don't recall how much they charged, but it wasn't much. This has worked fine to 1.38 g's for me. John

It's a Challenger, Jon!!!!! The video of that car on the VIR full course is one of my all time favorites. 528 cubic inches of torque, torque, torque, and blindingly fast. jt

Can you switch the calipers side to side and see if the problem follows the caliper? jt

The Charger and the Porsche side by side are quite a contrast! jt

Wow!!! That reminds you of the viper attack video at VIR, only a lot worse. jt

Wow!!!! That reminds you of the viper attack video from VIR, only a lot worse. jt

There's this guy, in France of all places, who is road racing a .......72 Dodge Dart. It's got a modified stock front suspension with coilovers, a four link/panhard rear suspension, an all aluminum small block Mopar V8 with W8 heads, dry sump, and a 180* flat crank that came out of one of the Oreca LMP cars. Most of the front end is fiberglass, along with the trunk lid and rear bumper. Full of fuel with driver, it weighs 2850 #. The motor makes about 650 at the crank, and hits the rev limiter at 165mph in 4th gear. I think it's remarkably cool to do that with a car that has virtually no road racing aftermarket stuff available. jt

The Fram filters are a nice piece, they do a good job and are widely used in the circle track world. They are sort of bulky and heavy. What size cell are you using? jt

If you mount them directly to each other, you need to fab a common mounting plate so you don't stress the fitting that connects them. You also need to make it so you can R&R them as a unit. A stainless fitting between the pump and filter is probably a good idea, since brass works hardens pretty quickly. A friend had a hard coupled pump and filter bolted to a sheetmetal panel. Somehow there was enough deflection to crack the brass fitting at one of the threads, and soak the rear of the car with gas. Luckily we did not have ignition/liftoff, but it had a lot of potential. jt

What does the 350Z tach go to? He's sure not afraid to peg it..... jt

I like that setup for the power valve. Who makes that? A 8.5 is pretty high. I suspect you will windup much lower than that. You can do a lot more to the choke tower. This is mine, all done with a hacksaw and die grinder. It's a 700. Edit: Don't forget to JB Weld the hole for the choke rod. You can see it in the pic. jt