jt1

Sounds Nice! You're lucky to have a 010/020 block. That's the primo stock block to have. Does it have a lifter clicking or is that the exhaust or something? jt

I tried that but couldn't see the scale on the side. If you could post it when you get a chance, that would be cool, but no big deal. Is NSS calling it good, or are they still tuning? John

I'm not questioning the numbers at all, that's a fine running engine. I would like to look at the torque curve a little more. I really enjoy looking at torque curves for different motors, they fascinate me for some odd reason, and I try to learn from them. You're going to have to take that car to the track sometime. There's no place on the street you can turn it loose!!!!!!!! John

Very nice! Nothing like solidly beating your goal. Any chance of a dyno graph? jt

No. Both the front bearing retainer diameter and the input shaft length are different. Pretty sure the TKO uses a M20-21 Muncie bellhousing. I can dig up the # of the GM bellhousing I was using if you want it, although drag racing you might be in scattershield territory. jt

I've been very happy with my TKO. It was pretty tight at first, but broke in and shifted nicely after that. I put a Pro 5.0 shifter on it and the GM Synchromesh fluid right from the beginning, and never had any problems. I've seen a number of people post about the shift quality, and difficulty shifting over 6K rpm, but I haven't had either of those issues. I routinely shift it at 7k at the track, no problems at all. I've been putting about 520hp/400ft# thru it for several years now road racing type app, no drag racing. jt

You could add a bar between the two bars that go from the main hoop down to the strut towers, just above the belt holes in the seat, and use that for the shoulder belts. Then the belts would be sloping downward to your shoulders. That would also let you eliminate the bar directly between the strut towers. jt

Absolutely. My 500 hp, sandblasted, rock chipped, rattle-can paint, tire marks all over it, brake dust 1/4" deep down the side, washed once a couple years ago car suits me a lot better than the Vintage Z. But, all the blood, sweat, and tears in mine also make me really appreciate stunning builds like this one all the more. Just a fabulous job. John

I fully understand that. I used to own one of the Vintage Z's. It was perfect. I was so scared something was going to happen to it when I drove it occasionally, I couldn't enjoy it. After about 3 years and less than 500 or so miles, I sold it. It now lives in a climate controlled garage/museum in Florida, and I'm happy for it. John

The deck should be squared parallel and perpendicular to the crank. If any of the pistons are that much off, get some more pistons, or match up pistons on the long side with rods on the short side to even them out. Even the crank throws can be off a little. Realistically, a thou or two variance in deck height isn't a big deal. jt

Jared, are you still planning to track this car some? If so, please let us know. I'd love to come see the car in person and see it run. John

Are you using the inline filter on the turbo feed as an extra precaution to protect the turbo, or is it because the oil feed is unfiltered? jt

Two things you need to know to accurately calculate the compression are the deck height, which is the distance from the top of the block to the top of the piston, and the volume of the dish, valve reliefs, etc. Those pistons have a fairly large dish, a big chamfer around the outside, and double valve reliefs, so that volume is fairly large, maybe 12 or 14 cc's. If you can measure or find info on the pistons, and measure the deck height, there is a good calculator on Keith Blacks's site. You can also calculate it manually, it's just volume at BDC divided by volume at TDC. Just guessing, I'd say 8 - 8.5 to 1. jt

The Ultrashields are nice stuff, and more reasonably priced than some of the others. I've got them in the 930, and they're a big step up from the Cobras that were in there. jt

There's no doubt the 302's and 327's have a sort of legendary status that none of the other sbc displacements enjoy. I've got a large journal 302 on the engine stand right now, it's sort of stalled till I get my 358 running. It will have a set of period correct 292 angle plug heads, and I know it won't make as much power as my 358, but hopefully the cool and fun factors will more than make up for it. I fully agree with Braap; Build what you want, it's your car and your money. jt

That sounds good, please post up some pics when you get it completed. My experience is it's pretty tough to get the hose positioned so that it doesn't kink or rub the tire, and even tougher to keep it there under track conditions. I was using 3", it might be more workable with the 2.5". One of my efforts went up the strut, then forward and down to the air dam inlet. Another went across the sway bar, then under the frame rail forward. Neither survived a full day on track. Mark says I can fix anything with zip ties and duct tape, but I have yet to conquer the brake ducts. That may be the reason he get's into a corner much better than me!!!! John

Looks nice David. How are you going to route the hose? John

It's just a process of elimination. My first thought would be fire up the electric and see if it's pulling fuel out of the tank. You could have an in tank screen that's stopped up, I'm not familiar with the ZX's. Next would be bypass the electric pump, maybe it's got restricted somehow. Edit: You might also try blowing air back thru the line into the tank to see if it clears the restriction. jt

That's great you found the offender! Any clunk with the 0.009 backlash? What kind of LSD? jt

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/pic_134.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/pic_132.jpg I was at a circle track auction a while back where they sold this setup table. The table, turn plates, ramps and small tables sold as one lot, they sold the scales separately. I thought long and hard about it, but it was about 30 ft long, so moving it would have been a huge PITA, plus if I put in my shop I wouldn't have had much room for anything else. It's old tech by nascar standards, but would have been great for a hobbyist like myself. After a lot of thought, I passed on it. It sold for $130. Fail. jt

Thanks. That was sort of what I was imagining, but I thought it might be more involved that that. jt

John, for the unwashed, could you elaborate on the homemade thrust angle bars? jt

I think it's an excellent idea to put the new (used) diff in just as it is and give it a try. The variance in back lash in your current diff is a big red flag to me. Either the carrier is off, the gears, or maybe a bent pinion shaft. Can you see a difference in the pattern that coincides with the backlash variance? It might be worthwhile to set up a dial indicator on the ring gear of your current diff, check it out, then remove the ring gear, reassemble the diff, and indicate the seating surface of the carrier. I've also been told a pattern towards the heel is quieter, but I've never played with it any myself. Most of my junkers are so loud I probably couldn't tell the difference anyway. jt