dts300z

Holy cow I cannot believe I'm just seeing this. That car is absolutely beautiful! just wow!!

not yet still trying to put together some casholine but hopefully soon. I will surely do a better job of documenting the build to share with you guys.

Wow that looks great! I like the care you took in putting together the x pipe...

Thanks for the input so far! I made a few tweeks to the design (rotating the wheel properly to match the 50 degree mark). Also designed a mounting bracket for the VR sensor that bolts inplace of the opti for easy install and it should fit nicely under the water pump. I'm going to try and get the brackets cut in the next week or so and I'll post up some pictures of everything mounted on the engine. Hopefully my measurements are correct lol...

If you disconnect the plug from the relay and get a light and look inside of the relay where the connector would plug in the numbers from the reverse side (or the top) will be next to the corrisponding terminals. Edit: and yes you are correct on your asumption! I use those relays all the time

Holy cow!! That thing is a work of art! WOW!

Hey guys thought I would share an upcomming project for the LT1. I have decided to go ahead with the MSII and EDIS-8 and so far I have picked up all the EDIS-8 module, VR sensor, Reluctor wheel (which I used for the design demension wise for the new 36-1 wheel), coil packs and all the associated pig tails. I also finished up the design for the new 36-1 wheel so I thought I would post up the design for some cretiquing. I also show the hub and balancer in the section and the hub in the front view... I thought I would try and put a little thought in this since I have not seen too much for the LT1 due to the opti... I have seen several artices but everyone seem to just bolt the 36-1 wheel to the balancer so I wanted to try something different.

I have been bouncing back and forth about my build up and I might need a little smack in the face to get me back on track... So hear is the plan but before I go into it this is just a for now setup on the short block. I should be running around 8-10 psi. I also picked up another LT1 (iron head) for $60 that I will use the short block for my forged setup. 1. 18.6 cc KB forged dish pistons (standard bore)http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=UEM%2DKB726%2D8&autoview=sku 2. stock rods and crank (ARP hardware for maincaps and rods and headbolts) 3. moly rings (top ring gap 0.026, 2nd ring gap 0.24) 4. new bearings (obviously) 5. CC306 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D07%2D306%2D8&autoview=sku 6. already have CC 1.6 roller self aligning 7. CC hardened pushrods 8. already have springs and retainers 9. heads (I'm thinking of doing some mild porting) 10. felpro 1074 head gaskets 11. MSII EMS and EDIS 8 (no opti hooray) 60lb injectors I'm looking to obtain around 550-600 rwhp and spin it around 6500+/- Rearend gearing is going to be a 3.56 with a 26x11.5 et street Please feel free to tear my thoughts apart!

heck yea! thats great I usually use one of the pain in the butt ones that you gotta crank down on the piston. Ohhyea and I surely use the fuel line for the rod bolts. Thanks for the tip on that ring compressor I am actually going to be ordering all the parts in the next week or so. Thanks again that will be put on the list when I order everthing from summit.

awsome glad to see it running! I need to come check it out sometime.

hey I'm not sure if it would work for your application but I think it might. You should be able to get an electronic speed sensor to fit the tranny and then go here http://www.abbott-tach.com/era.htm for an electronic ratio adapter (you might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere). Most speed sensors I know of use a pulse for a signal wheather it be digital or analog speedo and the ERA can convert your signal from say 40 pulses per driveshaft revolution to say 30 or whatever your correction factor may be. They have a support line that will be able to get you in the ballpark for you speed sensor / speedo combo. They have charts that tell them how many pulses your stock unit sends out vs. the th350 sensor. Hope that helps!

Firion 13, I ran into the same problems with the cooling as you did and let me tell you it was quite interesting... That was one of the reasons I cut into the firewall and the trans tunnel this time so I could set the engine back far enough to put a good set of fans on the radiator. Here is a picture I ended up using the stock NA radiator with a set of slimline pullers. As you know there is not much room upfront for the radiator placement, you might need to contact becool or someone that could build you a custom thick cored radiator or try putting a good set of fans on it and pushing the radiator forward far enough to compensate for the fan thickness... Best of luck man the swap is looking great!

for sure man!

looking good man! looks like you will be on the road soon!

I have this exact problem. Like ShaggyZ mentioned above I still need to check the balance of my driveshaft. I have checked tire balance, alignment, all steering and suspension componets, even rechecked the pinion angle. Although one more thing I plan on checking is the driveshaft yoke depth in the transmission. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe they say about 1/2" to 3/4" before it bottoms out in the transmission.

I agree completely.. I think I might invest in some TRW dish pistons and some ARP rods bolts and see how it goes... Thanks guys

Yes it is an LT1 and I have the factory tune with an FMU hahaaaa!! I know, I know I just wanted to get it on the road and now look where thats got me.. I am working on getting a short block right now so I can do the works to it.. Splayed mains, h-beam rods, JE pistons, forged crank (although this will be a long process) and I will surely have someone tune this for me as I understand tuning and its concept just not patient enough... Thanks again

Man you guys are insane... You are way too knowledgable for your own good... loll Thanks for the help and I will be sure to check these things tonight....

It would be a stock ring gap as this is a stock engine with 130k miles that has had alot of abuse at least since I have had it..loll I understand what you are saying though.

no problem! my apologies..

yup it was detination but at low rpm, too much timing under load. BTW this is a stock 130k mile engine... with hypercracknic pistons loll....

actually it was the ring lands... This was cause by detination at a low rpm under load... If I had to guess it was prolly around 4500 or so... too much timing for the boost level +/- 6psi and factory timing.. I was too caught up in the moment and forgot to back the timing off a few degrees

surprisingly enough it looks fine. all the chunks seem to stay intact until I pulled out the piston and picked them out..

not too sure if it is... It is stock compression (10.4:1 I think) and stock cam actually its a stock engine... it should be able to handle around 6-8 psi on stock internals but as you can see timming is not my friend...

Well as you know I blew a head gasket.. hahaa So I got some new head gaskets and ARP head bolts and a few other goodies... Got it back together this past weekend button everything up and I noticed when I was adjusting the new rockers that the crankcase was smoking a little ( a fuckit ) so finished it up and put the valve covers on. Time for a test drive! lol wellit had a slight miss under load (man ♥♥♥♥!). So I took the day off today and did a compression test 2-8 inbetween 205-210. Number 1 35 or so lololll put a little oil in there up to 45 hahahaaa!