dts300z

Absolutely no regrets! I wouldn't change a thing. The LT1 is a great building block.

I posted the information below to help the other guys out with wiring in the factory gauges. Also you can view the rest of that thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141356 and it has tons of useful information. I actually ended up using the ABS sensor to get my speedo working (it works great) since the TH350 transmission came with a mechanical speedo.

No problem thats what were here for!!! Keep up the good work...

Looking good! Keep it up! Just a suggestion on the engine mounts... I actually took a piece of angle iron and cut it to the width between the frame rails and marked the center, using that as a center line. I then found 2 common bolt holes in the block and drill the angle iron at these locations to find the exact center of the engine bay. Then I proceded to find the perfect engine height with the angle iron attached to the engine and tacked it in place after I leveled everything out and squared it up. This provided a rock solid position for the engine so I could then proceed to fab the mounts up. I actually got a little creative and used c-clamps to raise and lower each side to get it perfectly level side to side. Also this method allows you to build the mounts with loaded suspension to get a perfectly level placement front to back. Good luck with the swap guys!

WOW! That looks great! Nice swap!

I have retained the factory gauge cluster and all the factory functions minus a/c and power steering. I also built my car with the understanding that it will not be a daily driver. If you read my post above it tells you what harness you need to tie into to get the majority of the gauge's to work. You will need to run a wire in the new engine harness for the temp sensor for the factory gauge and tie into the accessory connector coming off the engine harness (located under the dash). The trim pots can be adjusted to dial in the tach but I would recomend a ERA (Electronic Ratio Adapter) for the speedo. Here is a link for the one I'm using http://www.abbott-tach.com/era.htm . The guy who posted the way he adjusted the trim pots to calibrate the speedo was TwinTurbo in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873 . Here is a great place to get all your wiring information on the Z http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi . Here is Firion 13's thread that also has alot of good information http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125578 . If you look in my build thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141130 you will see how I constructed my mounts. Also there are lots of other good pictures that will be of great value to you guys in all of the above threads including this one. Hope that helps! Dan

^^^ That's a clean looking engine bay! I think I'd go with the LS1 though. No replacement for displacement!

No manual for this one guys! If you are referring to my pictures no don't remove the harness unless you want to spend a lot of time building a new one or unless your feeling pretty froggy. I would start by removing the engine, trans and engine harness. Leave the transmission harness in the car as you will need to use part of it. This is the harness that ties into your backup switch (reverse lights), speedo, oil pressure switch, alternator, starter etc... I think they have a engine swap manual with a lot of general swap information that would surely help you guys out. I would also pick up a Nissan 300zx service manual (make sure its a NISSAN FSM not the cheap ones) for tracing all your wiring out. Good luck with the swap guys!

Sorry, no can do on the pictures I actually sold them about 4 years ago... I was liquidating everything to get a house. Thanks! No regrets I like the LT1. Its a good solid platform with plenty of power potential.

I ran the Convo Pros for a little while on my Z. They seem to do alright. I turned down a spacer on a lathe to about 3/4" thick with some longer wheel studs. Rim 5 on 4.5 bolt circle 15"x4" rim 2.313" backspacing I will measure the spacers tonight to let you know for sure how thick they are. I don't remember too well but I think they sat pretty flush with the fender.

Crash, I have had pretty good luck with the 5-bolt axles and the R200. I have put 1 diff in after about 90K miles of abuse (155k on car now). I cleaned the teeth off of the ring and pinion but the axles have stayed intact thus far. It had several hard launches on the N2O and nothing but full throttle shifts for over 2 years before that happened. So in short it will probably break but it will take a lot of abuse before it does.

Matt, I actually bought my MS-II 3.57 from you guys in December I think. What would the chances of getting you to set the one I got up? Cost? PM sent.

I apologize for my lack of information... this setup I will be using on my LT1. I set it up initially for EDIS-8 and I have now decided to switch over so MS is controlling everything utilizing LS1 coils. I have more information in my build thread (link in my sig). I am still a newb on this mega squirt stuff so I apologize for my ignorance on all the mods and stuff. I have been trying to read all the stickies and figure this out but I got a little lost along the way. So this is what I'm trying to accomplish... Utilize the 36-1 wheel and sensor bracket and sensor I made up (ford vr sensor) Install LS1 coils Figure out what I need to do to the MS to make this happen Would it be easier to just get the MS-II v3.0 already setup from DIY? I initially thought EDIS was going to work for me and the install was straight forward but I feel I'm a little limited by the module. Thank you, Dan

I have searched and I guess I might be trying to over complicate this but can this be done and if so what is the process? I want to use individual coils for my setup and I'm not real savy with the electronics. Thanks, Dan

I think doing something similar to the FD RX7 swap might work. If you make a jig for the cross member and drop just the rack portion your 3/4" and drop your tie rod ends with the rack using something similar to the FD kit and you should be good to go. This way your not altering the geometry significantly. At this point you could stick to your plan and have one BAMFDD... lol.

Another thing to consider is that if the vette LS2 manifolds fit, I'm sure the aftermarket shorty headers would most likely work as well. Don't throw in the towel yet I think you just about got this one figured out and it will be extremely worth the time and effort. As far as converting to front steer, I actually considered doing this before modding the fire wall and tunnel and this could be a good solution if you can get the steering geometry worked out. Might be worth designing a custom spindle for. When I did the first initial LT1 swap in my car I ran into the same problem with the exhaust. I used a set of sbc block huggers and put a tight radius on the end to clear the steering (the LS2 vette manifolds look like a far better solution).

Ok, I have to retire the thread. I'm sorry but this is just not a practical solution. There will bee too much machine work involved and the cost will not be justifiable. Instead I have decided to do a solid axle 8.8 swap into the Z. This will provide an large variety of gear selections and they are pretty bulletproof. I will start a new thread once I sell everything and get the new parts. Wish me luck!

I removed the diff again for another attempt. Thus far I have found that the ring gear width is substantially different. So for this to work you would need to turn down the ring gear as well (still might do this for fun). I also have been calling bearing shops in town and have had no luck yet. The dimensions of the bearing I will need are 3.5" (89mm) OD of the race and 1.77" (45mm) ID of the bearing. I have confirmed that the front bearing and race and seal out of the 350z diff will fit into the 300z diff so no problems there. I think the solution for the rear bearing is going to be to turn down the pinion to accept a 40mm ID and that will open me up for more bearing selections or possibly finding a standard bearing size (inch) that would be closer and open up the housing / turn down the pinion... regardless I'm determined. I still want to check the 90-92 Q45 diff to see if it uses the bearing I'm looking for. Then the only hurdle will be turning down the ring gear I think!! lol

Awsome! Looks great! Keep up the good work.

I initially stuck my map in a trouble shooting thread but I figured I would post it here as well. I know there won't be too many people with this setup but it would be a good starting point for those attempting a FI sbc build. Hope it helps! Here are a couple maps that seem to work pretty good. I HAVE NOT done any final tuning but the driveability is good and the plugs look good so far. This combo includes: LT1 355 (around 9:1) 60# injectors EDIS-8 T-70 master power (.96 A/R) I have not tuned full throttle yet. Use at your own risk!

I put this in the MS section but I did not do such a great job and stuck it in one of my trouble shooting threads so here you go! Here are a couple maps that seem to work pretty good. I HAVE NOT done any final tuning but the driveability is good and the plugs look good so far. This combo includes: LT1 355 (around 9:1) 60# injectors EDIS-8 T-70 master power (.96 A/R) I have not tuned full throttle yet. Use at your own risk!

Here are a couple maps that seem to work pretty good. I HAVE NOT done any final tuning but the driveability is good and the plugs look good so far. This combo includes: LT1 355 (around 9:1) 60# injectors EDIS-8 T-70 master power (.96 A/R) I have not tuned full throttle yet. Use at your own risk!

Ok here is a picture of the engine in the car. Keep in mind I still need to re-wrap the engine harness... long story. I have been taking it out on evening cruises for shake down purposes and I have a small trans leak at the shift linkage.

Thanks for the edit! Ok, so after much contemplation I decided to put the stocker back together to give the car its first road test after almost a year (I am very glad I did this). I came to the conclusion that the 3.35's are not going to cut it. Between the 3200 stall and the 4.08 rear I am surely going to need something alot closer to the 3.08 range for this thing to be somewhat streetable. I am putting this on the back burner for now until I figure out another route but I will figure out the details for everyone else's benefit it just might take a little longer.

I just realized the 7th, 8th and 9th pictures are labeled backwards. The 350z parts are on the left and the 300z parts are on the right... sorry for any confusion. Ohh and I can't edit them anymore unless someone can fix this for me.