dts300z

Ok it idles great but when I try to roll into the throttle it will hicup and the tach signal will drop then come back like its fighting to get up to RPM. Then when I ease it past by feathering the throttle it clears up... wierd. I'll try to attach my msq and data log... Thanks for any help... Dan MSII 3.57SMD MS2.0.1 megasquirt200908072021.zip

Here are a few pictures with the LS1 coils and a quick video. I still need to work on the tune but it will get there. Also I ran out of electrical tape so the harness is not fully wrapped...

Ok just a quick update and a FYI. FYI: Don't use the VE table above... lol it is pig ass rich. I will post a new and better table soon enough. The timing table seems to be a good starting point. Update: I am currently in the process of wiring up LS1 coils and fixing some little stuff (leaks etc...). I just finished up the wiring last night and I'll start playing around with the MS to get it fired up again. Videos shall come soon!! Pictures too!!

This should get you started http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150821. Read Read Read!!! There is a lot of good information here and that thread should point you in the right direction. As for a kit I havent seen one yet.

No worries! After all its not a LS1 swap... lol. I tell you what though all these upcoming swaps are pretty exciting. Makes me want to get mine back on the road.

You will get some good information from the guys threads from above... Here is a thread I've been putting together that should help some but it is more for an LT1 but the same swap principles apply and there are good links to other threads and good information that would pertain. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150821 Also check out my build thread, click the link in my Sig for some good pictures and basic tips. I wouldn't waste your time trying to use the Z32 transmission (not bad mouthing the Z32 tranny since that wouldn't be nice and I wouldn't want to upset die hard Z32 guys... lol) especially since the T56 will be a lot more fun and its more upgrade friendly too.

B E A utiful! That is all!

Ok we have a good solution for the clutch master for the swaps. I quoted a post from chris51881 and you can view the pictures in his thread in the link above.

Awsome! Great information... Looking good as always and keep it up! Dan

Just a quick search and I found these links. TH350 http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp Z32 post 5 and T56 post 15 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105513 as for the body height I can measure a th350 but I don't have access to a t56 or a z32 transmission... maybe someone else can chime in here. Read this thread over and over, BRAAP has alot of good information here too. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144469 Thanks to BRAAP The more valuable information we can pound in this thread the better. Here are a few more links to good threads and great information to help with the swap... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873 Thanks to TwinTurbo http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125578 Thanks to Firion 13 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149027 Thanks to fogged306 and chris51881 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141356 Good Q&A here along with some wiring tips for the dash (post #72)

Its an NA radiator. The one you posted should work just fine. I had to get a little creative with my setup to use the factory radiator. I initially had it plumbed wrong or the hoses were reversed. I'm going to have some aluminum pipes made up to make it look better but for the LT1 the factory radiator is probably not the best choice. I will take some measurements and spec out some radiators that will be optimum for the swap.

I’ve had a few requests to put together a materials/where to get type deal for the Z32 swap. This will be based on my setup and how I went about the process of doing the swap (this does not mean there is NOT a better way it’s just how I did it). I know there are a lot more talented and creative people than me so I would like if people would also share their ins and outs of their Z32 swap experience. Just to get things kicked off this is a good start to a materials/parts list you will need for your swap. Please feel free to add to the list. Materials: 1. 16 gauge sheet: for the firewall roughly 8’x4’ should do everything even the area where the transmission mount extra support is (this is the extra area on the floor and tunnel where I added extra sheet metal for support). The opening to the transmission tunnel is roughly 18†with tangent legs that wrap under the car for a little more support. 2. 20-22 gauge sheet: for the tunnel portion of the transmission tunnel (I wish I spent more time here making it a little prettier). So take your time! A 4’x6’ sheet would be fine. 3. 1/4â€x2†flat strap: for the A frame portion of the engine mounts. You can never have too much of this but at least 2’ should do it. 4. 1/4"x6†flat stock: for the base of the engine and transmission mounts. Again never too much of this either but at least 3’ should get the job done. 5. 1/2"x at least .875†tube: for the top of the A frame of the engine mount where the motor mount bolt goes thru. Get at least 6’ of this it really come in handy to have lying around. I like to have extra material just incase… look here http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15326&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0 they seem to have pretty good deals. 6. 1.5†square tube: for the cross brace on the transmission mount. You could probably go a little smaller but I always like to overbuild so you can throw gobs of power to it. Look here http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1195&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1&top_cat=0 you might be able to step down 1 size and still be ok. 7. For the exhaust you are going to have to make your mind up here cause there are just too many directions to head in here. Parts: I used block hugger headers like these http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/HOO2100HKR.htm <<---- that was just a quick search you cans find something better I’m sure and D port shaped too. I know there was a good source I saw on her a while back… maybe someone will post it up. Engine mounts: I used this set http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1120G/ it includes the transmission mount too so that is nice too. They are low profile and fit nicely. I used the factory radiator. Radiator hoses (that gets interesting) I would suggest making them with aluminum tubing and have someone route and weld them up for you unless you can weld aluminum proficiently yourself. Radiator fans: I used a set of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-410/?image=large they work rather well. Driveshaft: This is up to you but these guys a pretty well known and they can walk you through measuring it up… http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/ I used the factory clutch master… I would recommend a tilton with a little more volume and I went to the hose boss to have a hydraulic line made up to connect the slave and master. Just measure it up and tell him the fittings you need and he should be able to fix you up. For the LT1 there is a special fitting you will need and you might have to buy a new line and I think the only way to get it is by purchasing the whole setup. I took the old fitting in the slave and drilled and tapped it so I could run a hard line to it (cheap and easy). I’m sure I missed a bunch of stuff but you can ask me specific questions here and I will do my best to answer them. If you are unfamiliar with my build you can view it in the link in my sig. I answer a lot of common questions there. Good links for wiring and general information on the LT1 http://shbox.com/page/index.html http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Good luck and bring some good information to this thread! Please keep this thread clean and on topic. Dan

^^^ Contemporary Corvette / Fparts are good people to deal with!! ^^^ Sounds like you got a pretty good idea there Sir. That would be the ultimate in performance and looks. I've seen a swap with the corvette setup before but I can't remember where... I think it was in a inconspicuous car too.

It can be done but as said above I would not recommend it. You will be putting a band-aid on a problem that WILL come back. I would suggest pulling and freshening the engine at the least.

Man I was worried about how I explained the process of centering the engine was going to get lost in translation... I was wrong and that is exactly what I was saying. Great job and the best of luck to you!!! Dan BTW you are doing a great job documenting the build!

Be sure you still have some sort of pinion angle in there so you don't have a high speed vibration (they can be tough to get rid of). The links I provided should give you a rough pinion angle to work with or a goal so to speak. The main thing is to get your engine and trans as level as possible as this will aid in the drive shaft angles. This will keep your companion flange on the differential parallel with the face of the output shaft on the transmission. What this does is give you the same angle at both ends of the drive shaft which is what you want. Looking good!

I've done that swap, its actually pretty easy as far as the wiring goes. Here is a link to an online z32 manual that will be your best friend. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

I just removed the pedal and bent it slightly to move it closer to the brake pedal. I bent it in 2 places so it would stay straight up and down so it wasn't sitting at an angle. As far as the clutch master goes I will measure the spread and the angle of the mounting ears so you know what to look for. I would say your going to need at least a 7/8" bore clutch master. There are tons of brands and you might be able to even go to NAPA and have them look up the specs and pull a few and compare them. I did see some universal clutch master and pedal setups from summit you might look into. It might be pretty simple to just get a universal firewall mount setup but you would need to take some measurements to be sure.

I would suggest getting the z32 clutch pedal assembly and adapt a tilton clutch master cylinder to fit. They have quite a selection. Just as hoov100 said a 1 piece driveshaft all the way. There are some guidelines for aligning a driveshaft that should be followed... here is a good article to get you started http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html . Also you need to be sure you give the correct measurements to the driveshaft shop, they will tell you what they need. Usually all they need is from the face of the companion flange on the differential to the tail shaft of the T56. Let them know that you have a fixed differential / IRS. From what I remember the 240 has a little more length and width so be careful here. I hate to say it but unless you can get in contact with one of the other LS1 Z32 guys it might be trial and error. BRAAP has a good thread here on manifold selection http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144469&page=4 . Do you have a link to the kit your friend used? I would trace the wires back and see how it ties in. Look in the Service manual here http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=29&design=default&total=98 there is the schematic. The one to the right of the steering wheel is the auto air computer. You should have the ECCS, possibly powersteering control unit, alarm computer, ASCD (cruise control), AT control unit and I think some relays etc... The swap is looking good... I used the same width on the transmission tunnel (18") this did require tweaking the gas pedal a little.

Sorry no pictures of them out of the car... when I take them off to heat wrap them I'll take some pictures. They are actually welded to the headers now due to limited space with the routing I chose. They slide right in too! Yea the exhaust was a spur of the moment thing and it actually sounds pretty good. Although I still need to get it back on the road from some minor changes in my setup (pictures to follow of course).

Depending on labor costs and the skill level of your mechanic (don't take that the wrong way) you could get a TT engine and ECU for a little cheaper. BE SURE TO CHECK THE TURBOS INDUCER/EXHAUST WHEELS. I have seen several that had no fins on them like someone dumped rocks in them while it was running. Be sure to do the t-belt, water pump, etc... 1. Get a front mount. (ebay, etc...) Have new end tanks fabbed up for dual in/out. 2. Fab up some custom intercooler piping. 3. Boost controller 4. Use the N/A flywheel/clutch (if its 5 speed). 5. You can use the N/A engine harness. 6. Rock and Roll! If you are thrifty enough I think it could be done... but if you end up needing turbos then you might consider an upgrade at that point and that will exceed your budget. For 400-500 crank hp you could easily get that with the TT but there could be cheaper routes but that would involve a little metal work and time.

We really need to know dollar amounts in order to give you some ideas that fit your time line/budget. Also what kind of power levels are you looking to achieve? This will play a big factor in which route you should take. For instance if you wanted to do the TT swap you are looking at spending $3k + to get everything you need to complete the swap not including labor. I haven't priced half cuts in a long time but best I remember they were in the $2500-3500 range. I could be way off but this would get you way ahead of the game in having everything you need for the swap. If you are looking for 500+whp you will be on borrowed time with this swap on a stock bottom end. They are not cheap to build either (trust me). Any other swap as Paul said would involve some hefty persuasion or some cutting and welding... I would love to see more V8 Z32s though. Dan

I understand where your coming from with the vacuum valves and such but you can strip all that off without a problem. I disagree with the LS1 being more simple though, although it may be more reliable... lol. Example: In terms of wiring the LS1 has far more electrical connections that could create a problem, 7 more coils to go bad, crank position sensor, cam position sensor... etc. But we are comparing two completely different engines here. No doubt the LS1 has more potential in stock trim but when you take in consideration most people are looking for a solid platform/foundation to build from and if the aftermarket is there for both engines which it is, you are right back at making a personal preference decision. Because we all know it's the combination of parts and TLC that goes into building an engine that makes it fast. Both the LS1 and LT1 are great engines! The LT1 is like the son that never got any attention or handouts and has had to prove itself along the way. Dart is in the process of making a new big cube block for the LT1 that will probably catch the LSx with its pants down... 6-8 weeks. Anyways I'm not trying to be difficult it's just my 2 cents.

I think that's about right... 60lbs. Yes, it was a bone stock engine (135k long block, bone stock). Surprisingly it made a good chunk of power in stock trim without the turbo. I would post the numbers but I can't find the Dyno Sheet to back it up. I built the turbo setup with a set of block hugger headers and some stainless J-bends. Look in my build thread.

lol... I know its not the ls1 swap but when you posted the above it reminded me of my first swap into my 300zx in 2003 and I found the old thread my friends started for me before I became a frequent user of the online forums. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81696&highlight=lt1+300zx I actually remember seeing a sbc swap with turbo setup on it that inspired me to do mine... man I didn't realize how long ago that was.