2eighTZ4me

The motor has 3700 miles on it. It ain't rings....More concerned about having a working system similar to the way the original was designed - there is a bit of blowby - but usually only after spirited boosting sessions.

You said you were going L28 anyways - I wouldn't get too caught up in the enigma if the motor is going away any time soon.

I have seen folks go with just the K&N style breathers on the end of the block and valve covers to vent crankcase gases to atmosphere. I have also seen in the past where folks have made elaborate 'draw through' setups that use either the intake vacuum, or exhaust to actively pull the gases out of the crankcase. I am the former - and wish to be the latter. I would prefer using the exhaust to pull the gases out, as putting it back through the intake leads me to believe it would get dirty fairly quickly in there. My buddy was telling me of a kit at Summit Racing for like $40 that has the bung you weld on the downpipe, one way valve, etc. Can't seem to find this on their website. Anyone familiar with this - or even better - if you have devised your own system (with or without catch can) - I'd be all about learning from what you did. I should mention that my car is a boosted L28 application running a Lonewolf intake and no current provision for PCV. Cheers!

He said he would ship to Kuwait. Shoot me a PM and I will give you his e-mail address so you two can work the deal out.

I'll have to ask Pete if he still has the one left. It might be more than $220 shipped, if it's going to Kuwait though...

Top End Performance in California. It is an 89mm bore - and you can have them make you one in any thickness you want. Think it was $218 shipped to my door.

Well - it's been running fine now for a month. Even did track day at AMP / Z Nationals. Chain is still a little tight, but all is fine. I did poke a mirror and light down the front and the tensioner appears to be seated properly. I'm just gonna roll with it. Next stop is the dyno....

WTB the entire panel that goes underneath the taillights. It needs to be removed by drilling out the spot welds. Prefer a 240/260. as they have fewer holes for bumpers etc. than does the 280. Shipping will be to 30044. Need a rust-free donor....Thanks!

I got a thicker MLS head gasket, as my pistons were bopping the bottom of the head once it got warm. Old (MLS) gasket mic'd out at .64mm (uncrushed - after it had been reused a couple of times). The new gasket I got is 1.25mm crushed. Timing chain was a wee bit tight when I put the chock down in there to pull the head. I played 7 kinds of hell getting the sprocket back up on the cam with this new gasket. The chain is tight - I mean tight....you can barely move it when putting a good deal of pressure on it. I spun the motor over by hand a couple times, and still no slack. Wondering if the tensioner is bottomed out....?? I have a feeling though - once things get up to temp, that the chain will gain a bit more slack. Anyone run into this??

Hey Ryan - yeah - I've done it in the 'past' 2x with the old gasket - but never had the installation card, so I didn't know they recommended a dry install. My surfaces are completely within spec - head went to the machine shop and cleaned/straight edged and deemed worthy by my machinist, so I can't help but think that this is just added insurance. Thank you sir!

So - just got my new MLS Cometic gasket - they have a 'dry' recommendation for installing on their instruction card, but I can't help but think that a coat of copper spray is going to hurt anything. Any of you care to chime in to the contrary? And, if so, why?

Disregard this post. Delete if possible. I called Jerry at Schneider and he stated that they have larger retainers that need to be bought with the springs. Sorry for the spam. Doggonit....impulse posting will always get you flamed....my bad....I should know better.

I ordered a set of Schneider valve springs for the L series and my machinist pointed out that they are larger diameter than the stock springs (both inner and outer) - and stated that I needed larger retainers, as there would be too much 'walk' trying to use the stock Nissan retainers. Has anyone measured to see if they are a larger diameter spring? He says they lay on the seat OK, but the retainers are too small. Do I need to order Schneider's retainers as well? Or did I order the wrong valve springs from them? The site said they were for an L series head....thanks!!

That's very cool too davek!

Your main bearing caps have an arrow on them. The arrows should all point forward. Don't recall seeing the Nissan logo on any of the main caps. There is a 'badge' on the rod caps if that's what you're referring to - and in that case - yes - they should all be uniform in their orientation.

Thanks Rossman! One of the members of the Georgia Z Club had 3 made. Cost him $800 for the design/machining/materials. It was 'economies of scale' to produce 3 and sell the other 2 than it was to make just one - so I picked up one of the two remaining. Yeah - they're pricey at $200 - but NOBODY else has one ('cept ol' Pete) and I'm confident it will really make the engine bay pop a little more. There's one left for sale at $220 shipped if anybody is interested....

Has nothing to do with backpressure. It's about duration and ramp angle. They are totally different grinds. Yes - a NA cam will work on a turbo car, but to get the most efficiency out of the turbo - you don't need much lift like an NA cam - you want the longer duration, so the valve stays open longer and the turbo has more time to stuff more air in the cylinder. My turbo cam looks quite weird sitting next to a NA cam.

Hol' on a second.....are the pistons dished or flattop? You stated you have a custom grind cam - is it specifically a turbo grind - cuz they are profiled completely different than NA cams. 1000cc injectors - you're gonna have a fun time getting that car to idle properly. You'd do well to drop down to 550's, which are good for probably 450+ to the wheels - which is where Roger's comment comes in. You'll need a new transmission. Stock FS5W71 box can handle maybe 300 (if you baby it) - 250 if you dog it. What are your goals - that's the first question to ask before ANY motor build....

No - if the shaft is in there, then it is held in place by the timing cover and that keeps it riding on the gear on the crank. Did you see any trash in the oil pan when you pulled it? On my racecar, I'm running a diesel Maxima pump shaft - which is a 4" long stubby shaft - distributor has nothing to do with the holding/placement thereof. So - you had pressure initially on the break in?

Just picked this up today. For those of us running MS or any other standalone EMS that requires you to use the ZX turbo distributor for VR signal......

Leon - you have a tremendous grasp of the obvious - and apparently the 'not-so-obvious' as well. That's a great idea. I'll try that when I get home tonight. Roger - if that doesn't work - I'll hit you up man!

Nelsonian - finally got around to swapping out the booster. It was INDEED the reaction disk. As stated - glued it back to the rod, and readjusted the pushrod since the disk is a few mm thick - and voila! Nice firm pedal now. Sorry for the delay.

Anyone have an old brake booster lying in the scrap heap that I can pillage the reaction disk from? Mine is lost in the booster. I had my fingers on it - but missed it and now it's dropped 'somewhere' in the booster and appears to be stuck somewhere. I bang and shake and can't hear it anymore. I know it didn't drop out - and pulling the booster apart doesn't look like a fun job. Shipping to 30044.

I have a carbon fiber hood that I need to put vents into due to underhood heat trappage. Plan on doing a wire mesh vent. What is the best/cleanest way to cut holes in this hood?

I've got datalogs. I need to get a few more recent ones though when it does it. I should be able to do that over the weekend. Thanks for the input!