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I anxiously await your reply! Many thanks!

The racecar I'm building does not have ANY throttle linkage at all (firewall mount was cut off too). All I have is the stock gas pedal. I am going to be running triple Webers. What the heck do I need to do to fab up a cable setup that will run the Webers? All my searching has yielded the conversion for an EFI car, but not a car with triples. Anyone done this? Pics would be MOST helpful, as a picture's worth 100000 words to me. The carbs came with all the linkage from the carbs TO the firewall, but the piece that holds that linkage that's welded to the firewall is gone. I suppose I could get "creative" but it would probably be inefficient and butt-ugly.

I just scored that N47 head off E-Bay for $200 that has the Racer Brown setup in it. Springs, retainers, lash pads - the whole 9. I believe based on what was advertised it was a 341-R. From what I can see on the pic, it's a .500/.500 but I couldn't read much of anything else. It's going in my 3.1L stroker in the MN47 head that Paul Ruschman just sent back to me with all his port work. Having oversized SS valves cut in and should be ready to rock and roll in a few weeks.

There has to be some sort of adapter that has a gasket like an oil filter to route the oil out to the filter. There is no way to put any kind of AN fitting on the inlet from the oil galley - it runs parallel to the block and exits parallel to the block at the bottom of the oil filter boss. Even the pictures in the book were less than clear, as were the instructions. I have since purchased a spin on unit from Summit and will see if it works. Has anybody else done this mod as explained in the How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun book? I can't seem to figure out something that is probably dead simple.

I have an Oberg remote mount oil filter. Am also going to be running a cooler as well. I need an adapter for the block to go to AN fittings. In reading the How to Modify Your Datsun/Nissan, it states on page 14 to pull the relief valve and tap it for 3/8" NPT and plug it off. Says to pull out the nipple and use a 1/2" NPT adapter with a 10 AN fitting. Based on what I've read in the FSM for the oil circuit is that it comes from the pump directly to the filter via the oil galley opening at the bottom of the filter boss. It is then sent through a "filter device" and then returns through the nipple to lube the engine. Do I need just a regular oil filter adapter that will spin on the existing nipple, or do I need to go the route of blocking off the relief valve and installing the 1/2NPT > -10AN adapter? Not exactly sure how this works - or I'm missing something big in the picture. How would you mount an adapter on a -10AN fitting? Thought they were all standard NPT. I'm confused. Any ideas on what adapter I should purchase? Also - do you recommend running the cooler after or before the filter?

I've been calling all over and everyone is telling me it's going to be a custom set. Since I'm going to have to go that route, can you point me in the direction of the 9mm 240 rods and a custom piston? The forums here are vast, and it sounds like you know exactly what you're talking about. I'm going to have to prove whomever with piston specs, - pin height, etc. etc. - do you have any of this documented with what specs you need to have the pistons cut at? I will continue to search - hoping you had a combo already on your mind that has been tested and proven. Have access to a set of 9mm rods however - which got the wheels turning....

Hey Jon, I searched up and down at Summit, and at Top End - there are no listings for the L28. Only the KA, SR, and RB motors. Is this something I'm going to have to request specially, or is it a non-stocking item that they'll have to "put together"?

Anybody know where to get a set of forged (dished) pistons for an L28? Motorsport has the flat-tops, but I'm looking for dished. Most folks don't even list the L-series motor anymore. Am I looking at a custom set?

Excellent advice from you all. ARP sent me the assembly lube with the rod bolt set, so I'm good there. I have only torqued once to plastigage, and I must say, I did not keep track of which nuts went where. I will make it a point to do so for the second and third torque sequences. Thanks for that tip Tony D. Probably have to tear down the bottom end again. It looks like the machinist bored the #1 cylinder too little. I can barely fit the piston in there without rings, and is a very tight fit. With the rings installed, you can feel it binding along the cylinder wall (even thought it's soaked in oil) when you spin the motor over. The other 5 cylinders are fine. He says he bored each cylinder to each piston, but how could you screw up just one if that's the case? Wouldn't you use the same tolerances across the board for all 6? anyways - thanks again guys. feel a LOT more confident about this now.

You say "stock" block - meaning dished pistons. If so, then yes, that will "work". For a turbo application, you don't want a very high static compression ratio at all. The turbo itself will build up the dynamic compression ratio as boost builds. Ditch the N42 - someone out here on this forum will probably pick it up if the price is right. The P90 came out I believe in late '81, and is a far superior head (and the factory head) for the turbo application. Not a heck of a lot of difference b/t a N42 and F54 block from a layman's perspective, so that combo should work fine.

They'll work for sure.

That has been my take on as many posts as I've read of his. Saving money now to have him port a head. Curious though (and Paul - chime in if you can) Nothing was mentioned about main studs and re-torque. I've had "issues" with my bottom end such that I've had to remove the main stud nuts several times. No mention was made in any of the ARP literature about unbolting and re-bolting the main studs. I'm assuming since these are "race quality" parts, they're meant to be taken apart and put back together many times for service reasons?

Nope - the sheet I got said to torque them 3x to 28 lbs. Loosen and re-torque is what I was to understand - I'll triple check the sheet this evening. Certainly, there must be some folks on this forum that have built radical high-perf motors and used the ARP products before. What process did you use? This is my first time with ARP stuff, so I'm asking the folks that have done this before with the ARP stuff. I shall follow Paul's advice to adhere to ARP's recommendation to the letter.

Have a set of 8mm ARP rod bolts for my stroker motor. Would like to have had the 9mm's but the jerk that sold me the pistons didn't bother to measure and I got ripped. Didn't figure this out until AFTER the pistons were pressed on and I went to start installing the new rod bolts. So I have to go with what I have. Anyways - the ARP instructions stated to torque the nuts to 28 ftl/lbs. twice and then a third and final torque at that spec. This stretches the rod bolts to their specs. FSM calls for 33-40lbs on stock bolts. Do I stick with what ARP says and leave them at 28, or do I go for what the FSM says? I did the first round to 28 lbs when plastigaging the motor - clearance was about .0015 to .0018 across the board. Seemed to be ok, but just don't want these things coming apart at 7K.

I think the bolts that bolt the motor mounts to the rubber insulator mounts on the crossmember are 8x1.25 and they're about an inch long.

Gang, Can't seem to get an answer on this and I have searched long and hard. The two side oil seals with the metal shims that slide down in the rear main cap - which way do they go? The side seals have a U shape groove in them, and I'm pretty sure that's where the metal shim slides down in - BUT - which side do they face? Does the metal shim touch the block or the rear main cap? It's a 50/50 shot, and with my luck - I'd screw it up. Don't have another motor handy to check this on. Anybody know for sure which way to install these?

I searched and came up empty - does anyone know how to identify the "correct" cam that is supposed to be in a P90 head? I would imagine there is a number stamped somewhere that would identify that it came out of a P90 head.

Hi gang, searched to no avail. Anyone know where to get a hold of a 2mm thick head gasket for an L28? I tried racetep, and they only sell them for the stock bore of 86mm. I checked the Kameari one - and a 2mm thick one is $300. Is this my only option? The motor will see "some" street usage, but not much. I've heard of copper, but I also hear they weep coolant. Any suggestions? What are other folks doing about their stroker motors out there? Thanks!

Looks almost identical to the one I got from Arizona Z-car. Is it currently hooked up and working, or are those blue pieces I see the end caps? If it's hooked up - would you mind perhaps posting a picture of how your IC hoses are run? Looks like you have an entrance on one side and an exit on the other. That's the "problem" I'm faced with and would love to see someone else's solution to the situation. Thanks Phil!

Is that the intercooler sold by Arizona Z Car?

Yes - it was Norm (the 12 second SU dude) that "ground" the dish off his pistons. Believe he used his driveway concrete, and then counted the number of passes he made with his first piston until it was flat, and then performed the same # of passes on each subsequent piston. Believe he made like 10 passes or so and then changed angle 45 degrees. This is from memory (fading) only though, so it might not be totally factual. The post was over on Z-Car.com.

Need to coat the engine bay and floorpans of my track car with a durable finish. Did a lot of research on this site about the Herculiner bedliner stuff. Folks say the finish is too rough. Others prefer paint. I was thinking, what about a rocker panel chip guard type of spray? The stuff from 3M I used in the past on rocker panels is as hard as nails, and you can paint over it too. Suggestions?

Guess I'd better measure that puppy, as I don't have plans to install it for a little while yet.

Gang, I bought a track car that has been sitting for 4+ years with old fuel in the fuel cell. I was told I only need to replace the foam inside the cell, but was wondering if there are other things I need to be looking into replacing to remove any chance of old contaminated fuel getting into the new motor.