2eighTZ4me

I'll take one too. 280Z. Let me know when and where to send the $$$!!!

Yes - the 75-76 had the fuel pump cutoff in the AFM - hence 2 extra pins in the AFM in 75-76, as opposed to a 77-78 which completes the circuit via oil pressure through the switch - which is 2 wires in 77-78, and only a single wire from 70-76. Also 2 less pins on the AFM, as they were relocated to the oil pressure circuit. Oil pressure signal doesn't go through the EFI harness, which is why it shouldn't matter that I'm running the MS and no 'stock' engine EFI harness. Oil pressure signal goes through the lower body/engine harness on the passenger side and comes right in to the cabin. Doesn't even touch the EFI harness..... I should have fuel pump because I have oil pressure.... I need to do my research. Really appreciate you bouncing some ideas - .Im kinda lost at this point and certainly would not rule out a bad relay - this car's wiring is fooked.....the fun has yet begun....

OK - so are you saying I can't get fuel pump signal without using the MS's pin 37? I 'thought' I could get the stock 78 system - which is triggered by oil pressure - to kick on once I got oil pressure from cranking it over. Apparently not... What am I missing here. I don't 'think' I should need to use MS's fuel pump relay circuit - but I have lots to learn about wiring - so if I need to employ the MS's fuel pump relay circuit - I'd really appreciate a 'lesson'.... Thanks!

OK - actually it's a Bosch 044, but regardless, I'm getting no power to the fuel pump while cranking - period. I know the 78's fuel pump is controlled by the oil pressure switch. No pressure = no fuel. I have oil pressure, but no fuel pump. Is there something I need to bypass/jumper when using the MS II v.3.0 on the fuel pump relay? I'll do some more studying tonight - didn't know if someone had the method off the top of their head...

Holy crap!! I thought I was the only one with this problem. I just stumbled across this looking for something else. When my MSD 6AL box took a dirt nap (for the 2nd time...doggone POS) - I removed it and ran straight coil. 50 degrees timing was what I was seeing as well. Got the MSD box back and put it all back the way it was - timing right back down to normal. Everyone I have asked has been speechless at this oddity. So - tomorrow, I plan to pull the MSD box out of the loop again and run straight coil and see what the timing does. I see this thread is nearly a year old - so - were you able to find any closure to your situation? I'll let you know what my test results are.

Odds of me finding one are slim - but thought I'd ask. I also need the passenger side rear deck piece. The deck piece that is made of pressboard that goes between the interior plastic and the lift up center section that covers the spare. And a pair of wiper arms.

Exactly!!! Genius!!! Did you make this? Love to get my hands on one.....

Heck - now that I look at it- I may be able to use an old sway bar and weld the nut ends to it....

Long story short - my weakened (essentially non-existential) frame rail tore out at the track. We rebuilt the frame rail from the TC rod box back to the floorpan/firewall area with 16ga. and zipped it all in. I am still a bit weary about the forces these new pieces will see at the track and was wanting to build a bolt-in brace between the two new rails that will transfer lateral forces, such that one frame rail doesn't take the brunt of the force. It looks like it would be easy enough to fab up a 1" tube brace with a nut end on it that would angle back from the tie-in points at the fat part of the rail (right behind the TC rod box) and go back to a center piece that would go in between the back of the oil pan and the transmission. Essentially, it would look like \______/ if you were looking at the car from above with the front of the car being ^ (that way). Someone told me that someone makes a brace like this - but I can't seem to find one. Has anyone done this?

Joe - I need the whole shootin' match. It was completely deleted from the car.

They're different, but if I can't find a 260 cable, I may very well take you up on yours and see if I can fab something up. The only difference that I know of is how it screws to the bottom side of the console.....thanks man.

Anyone out there got one for sale??? Not paying $400 for Motorsport's new one.

Used the stock 280 brackets, and with but a couple pieces of flat stock, drilled the offsets between the seats and the floor mounts. Bolted right up - no smashing of the tunnel or anything. They sit a wee bit high, but still usable. Will get pics of the passenger side and post. It's not difficult - just takes a little time.

omgtofu - is the correct part for the front of the 78 8610-1437RACE? Says it's a universal fit. don't have the struts with me to measure.

Springs are great - but I need a good quality performance oriented strut cartridge. KYB's are out. Won't use them. I suppose Koni is the only other player in that arena for the S30? Anyone have part #'s for 78 280? Fronts specifically? Just for giggles, I placed an order with Amazon - thinking they have a ton of suppliers and they can certainly get it. My order went through, but with a delivery date of anywhere from May 28th to July 8th.....not acceptable.

Looks like there's an issue with Tokico's USA distributorship and some greenbacks......just got notified that Tokico's are in short supply due to the 'issue' with their US distributor. Car has been up on jackstands for 2 weeks and just went to check my order status and found that they are just plain not available. Placed another order through Amazon - and I'm being given a ship date of May 28 to July 5th. Jeez - I don't want KYB's - what are my other options (and part #'s if you have them) in the adjustable performance strut market?

I have one without the throttle linkage piece - the cable cam - $20 + ship if you want it. It's been medial blasted and is clean.

I've been losing oil pressure at the track once the car gets warmed up. I checked my Oberg thinking it was clogged and returning oil through the bypass ball valve in the oil filter area on the block. It was not. I was speaking to a knowledgable L series guy and he stated that the turbo cars had a plug where that ball/spring unit is to force the oil through the cooler and not let it bypass back into the block. I have the plug - 11022-69800, and was wondering if anyone else has done this. In particular - how do you get that existing ball/spring/sleeve unit out of the block cleanly - WITH the motor in the car....seal puller? I have the Wolf Creek adjustable oil pump spring and it's cranked pretty far down. Great pressure when just tooling about, but under serious load after 5 or so laps - pressure gradually drops. I have to think that by spinning the motor that fast for a long while - AND having the dual sandwich element in the Oberg, that the motor just simply cannot push that much oil through a 115 and a 60 micron screen and it's bypassing through that check valve back into the block. Another telltale is that my oil temp sender is inline just past my Oberg, and it drops to 0 - telling me that hot oil is not getting past the Oberg. Ideas???

Still looking. The ones I need have a 45 degree angle on the front of the bracket - the rear of the bracket is horizontal - the bolts go straight down in the floor. Bueller???

Just need the brackets / slider assemblies. Using them to fab a plate to mount aftermarket seats. Someone has got to have a ratty torn up set of seats that they'd be willing to part with the sliders from......Shipping to 30044. P.S. - I need the brackets for both driver AND passenger seats.

Tony - just running the stock 280 EFI pump. Nothing fancy or huge. Hmm....well - I guess the weather is going to be nice this weekend....just wish I hadn't mounted the regulator on the firewall in front of the wiper motor. That's going to be a heck of a run out to the carb bodies and then back to the tank. Thanks for the advice sir!

My timing is a bit high. I've been meaning to back it down a little. I think I'm at 36 degrees all in and I'm still hearing some pinging in 4th on a hard pull. Thinking 32-34 would be about right. OK - pretty sure I have the cooling bodies. They're down on the bottom between the accelerator pump diaphragm and the carb body itself.. They have two hose barbs coming off each carb - one facing toward the front of the car - the other facing the rear. Is this what you speak of? I asked Todd at Wolfcreek what these were for and his response was 'it was a feature that Mikuni never ended up using'. Like a dumba$$ - I thought water went through them, so I plugged them off with some fuel resistant epoxy. So, it would be in my best interest to pull the carbs, remove the epoxy, and run the return fuel through these? I would have to assume this is post regulator?

Freshly rebuilt Mikuni 44 PHH's on a Canon long runner intake. Brand new isolators and rubber o-rings. Never had this problem before the rebuild. If I sit at a stoplight too long and take off, the car would stumble and lose power, but would eventually recover. The other day on the way home from work, I stopped at a buddy's place for 15min or so. When I got back to the car - I smelled gas rather heavily from the back of the car. When I left, I got about 500 yards up the road and it died. This time - completely. Pulled over and popped the hood - I could hear gurgling noises coming from my fuel lines. - Running a stock 280 EFI pump through and Aeromotive return-style regulator. - All AeroQuip braided lines routed along the backside of the motor along the firewall. - Nismo Comp header - large primary tubes. - I have a heat shield. Two actually. - Float levels are dead nuts across all 3 carbs - Regulator located after the carbs - Steady 3.5psi fuel pressure when cranking the car - Jetting is dead on. Car was tuned with a wideband on a dyno. I have a hard time believing that a system that returns fuel to the tank to cool (and on a 60 degree day) is boiling it. Yet it was. After about 10 minutes of trying to start it with no luck for the first 2-3 minutes. I tried it again after the gurgling noises stopped. Fired right up and drove it home. When I got home, however, the smell of gas was prevalent again, - some in the carbs, yet some while walking around the rear of the car - yet I saw nothing leaking. There was no hint of fuel smell in the cockpit - only exterior. I was thinking of wrapping the AeroQuip hose with a foil type heat barrier - but the stainless braid should knock down a good bit of heat in and of itself - especially where the hoses are routed. Haven't done any further testing, but thought I'd throw this out there to see if anyone had any ideas.

I have quite the assortment of jets if you need to borrow some locally - we are on opposite sides of the ATL - but it beats paying for shipping - AND you get a chance to drive your car! My 44's came with a divided compartment box with probably 3-4 different sizes of each type of jet.

Thanks Glenn! Well - looks like I'm going to be the guinea pig for the A4's. I have a pair of GTS II's in my other 280, and they are a little tall. I'm 6'1" and my head hits the roof. No big deal though - I can squinch down a bit in the seat and gain the necessary headroom. Helmet is a different story - but that's for another discussion. No rollbar - this is a daily driver. I guess I'd better document this good so we have it for future reference.