2eighTZ4me

Yet we still continue to do it!

Searched on Corbeau A4, and still didn't get the info that I needed. Corbeau has a bracket that is supposedly made for a direct fit for a 280Z. Has anyone used these? I asked if it was specifically for a 280 and not a 240 - and was told that it was for a 280. Also - with these seats - is it necessary on a 280 to have to bash in the cat hump, or do they fit with no modification?

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/3595096083.html

Need it like it just came off the car. Need the throttle cable cams first and foremost, and a TPS would be icing on the cake. I paid $60 for the last one - please don't rape me.

FWIW - I'm running 45 pilots in my 44's on a 3.1L. Idles at 13.2 according to the wideband.

Just caught this the other day. Rear carb is leaking out the bottom of the carb. Just a steady drip. Doesn't look like it's coming out of the air filter though. Haven't had a chance to pull them off and get them apart - wondering if anyone else has seen this. My gut tells me it's the accelerator pump diaphragm - but it could be a stuck needle/seat.

I ran the return line. Just plumbed straight into the stock return line. Not so sure you'd want to run a deadhead setup if you intend to use an EFI pump. Not sure what the ramifications would be, but it would seem to me that it'd burn up the pump. A low pressure pump - not so much - but a high pressure pump.....hmmm - a little leary on that one. Course, I've been wrong before - my wife tells me that all the time!

I must be going nuckin futz...I can't find this article ANYwhere. I did a search on 'how to degree your cam' and BRAAP's article still didn't show up. Madkaw - I looked under the FAQ and there is no L6 section under Drivetrain that I can seem to find anywhere. This site is a blessing and a curse at the same time!

It IS that easy. Only other thing you'll need is a decent fuel pressure regulator. I'm running the stock EFI pump with an Aeromotive FPR and it works like a champ. I suppose you could go with a low pressure pump, but you'll likely need a regulator for that too - so just buy a regulator that can drop to 3.5psi and you'll be off to the races.

I need the throtttle body cam for a 240SX TB. I bought the TB, and it had already been stripped for an S30 linkage conversion. I am going to be running a cable and need the cam unit that the cable attaches to. It's either that, or source a new 240SX TB that has it. Thanks!

My thermostatic fan switch is mounted at the back of the head behind #6 where the water normally goes out to feed the heater core. I'm going to be moving that up to the bottom side of the thermostat housing. I'm thinking that, for my turbo, I need to pull water from the back of the head > turbo > and return it back to the bottom of the thermostat housing as well. Is this sound judgement, or what are my other routing options (without going into a fabricators nightmare).

Sorry for the delay folks - I just got my PRC custom built unit the other day and did a mockup fit over the weekend. Once I take it back out to mount the fan, I will get detailed pics of the front end of the car.

Zmanco - that's on the track - after a 20 minute session of pretty heavy use. Mind you, my bottom core support has been cut out and replaced with a 1" rollbar. I taped off all extraneous holes in the core support with the silver aluminum tape. I also taped between the intercooler and core support and core support/radiator. All air was directed through the IC/radiator. The PO of the car was a Ga. Tech graduate and he built a pan style front end that came off the backside of the air dam and feeds the bottom of the radiator. I just had a 2 core Ron Davis unit - single pass - and she never got hot once. Maybe I need to take a few pics of my setup - I can't explain it very well - but a picture's worth a couple hundred words at least. Just got the motor back in it last night, but haven't put the radiator in yet, so I should be able to get some decent shots.

I searched the site and Googled but didn't get much in reply. I know someone posted what each of the 8 holes are with respect to cam timing.....anyone seen it, or have the link handy? I know I've seen it before....guess I don't know the proper search terms to use....

Wow - you guys' water temps are insane. My car has never gotten over 195 in dripping wet Atlanta heat in June. I'm running a factory thermostat and not one of those restrictor plates. I'm at 415rwhp on 16psi of boost and never has it ever gotten over 200 (except when my fan relay. went toes up). My problem was clearly flex in the core support area that ripped the radiator apart. I now have a cradle welded to the front roll bar that goes along my core support. I ended up buying a 24x19 PRC unit - and lo and behold - with the filler neck and cap on, it won't clear my hood. The tangs along the top and bottom of the radiator add about 3/8- 1/2" on the top and bottom, making it actually a little over 20" tall. Add the extra 1.25" for the filler neck and cap, and you're easily at 21+ inches. Too tall for the hood to clear. The cradle was made with a Griffin 24x19 as the unit to model - the PRC's 24x19 has a little different specs for a radiator (advertised as) the same size. Note to self...... Luckily - I need a rad for my turbo street car that has a completely factory core support. I am going to be building another cradle system for a stock S30 and I'll be posting pics as to how it works with PRC's 24x19 unit. The cradle looks like it will be real easy, as the rad needs to sit even with the bottom of the lower core support - you could almost bolt on a flush bracket right at the bottom and hold it that way. Instead of going the full encompassing setup like John's - I've made a couple of flexible aluminum strip holders that bolt in the stock upper radiator bolt holes and just hold the side tanks of the radiator - allowing full flex from side to side - so I think it will be the way to go. Easy and cheap, and allows the radiator to move considerably (with the flex of the 1/2" aluminum strip) and holds it in place good and solid. I'll get pics up once we get the stock S30 cradle made. John is right - it IS the way to go if you're beating the car up on the track.

OK - that makes sense, although, I do use 5th quite a bit at Road Atlanta, and it's very handy to have a more "useable" 5th gear at .864 than having to lug it along at .754. With 16psi of boost, you rip through the gears pretty quick.....

Looking at a Stage 3 or 4 clutch and there's a bunch of manufacturers represented on E-Bay. Names like Kupp, VR, F1 Racing, XTR, Bahnhof etc. I'll be putting about 350 to the ground. Anyone used any of these setups with any success?

OK - why is it they call the "close ratio" box the one that has a taller 5th gear? I mean 1.00 to .864 is 'closer' than 1.00 to .754 - yet the .754 box is called close ratio, when in truth - the .864 box has a 'closer' 5th gear ratio than the ZX box. I just can't wrap my hands around this one. I guess it must be measured from 1st gear through 5th???

Will the lord mounts provide enough flex to do the job properly? The cradle seems like the best bet, but the lord mounts would be a lot less work.

I had 1/3" thick rubber grommets/spacers between the core support and the rad. Is that not good enough? If not, what is the recommended mounting method?

For my 73 turbo track car. Had a Ron Davis and the P.O.S. separated at the tanks. Sent it back to them after only 3 years and less than 1000 miles of service and they said they can't repair it. What a freakin' crock....That's the last time I do business with those bastages....sooooo.... I've been poking around here and seen mixed reviews with the Koyos, Champions, and PRC's. I don't want to break the bank like I did with the Ron Davis unit. - so looking for advice from those that actually drive the piss out of their car on the track and what issues and/or successes you had with your choice. My preference would be a direct fit, but I have access to a very good TIG welder who can fab up mounts on just about anything. This is a turbo setup with 3" intercooler piping, and it's a 3.1 stroker L series - so it gets hot when I'm beating on it. I have a 16" Spal electric fan (puller) that does a good job of keeping it cool at idle. Thanks in advance!

Not sure if there's a diftference b/t 77 and 78 - or 75/76 for that matter when it comes to the fuel tank sending unit. Need one in working order if anyone's got one.

Jeez man - you don't deliver? What kinda crap is that?? - I'm sure we'll hook up soon enough. Thanks man - I'll take it!

Box keeps popping out of first gear and has just been rebuilt - have to figure it's the shifter fork. Will a 4 speed shifter fork work as well? I need one regardless.....

Well - here's some interesting news. My machinist went back to his reference books and found TWO different diesel cranks. One crank does indeed share the same journal width as the gas powered L series - the other one (which by stroke of luck I happened to get) is .003 thinner on the main thrust journal. Why they did that? My guess - automatic vs. manual transmission is the only thing I can think of. <br><br>Crank has been fixed and widened, however, my machinist is having a bear of a time finding racing bearings for this motor. Apparently, King, Clevite, and others have discontinued racing bearings for this motor as of Q1 this year. Anyone else got a source?