Modern Motorsports Ltd

feedback from a list of Lt1's etc was their OEM setup when serviced (as many of them have) does NOT require retorquing, as I've used same gaskets I'm not concerned with it either.

Well my motor mount setup currently is as simple as it gets IMO. I'd have to measure it up but mine (as all ZX's I've talked to or seen) lines right up on my crossmember. The standard chevy motor mount (as per JTR) bolts to my crossmember with the single large bolt from underneath. Then on top of this mount is basically a ~2.25" shim/spacer. Just a thick stack of homecut triangular (to match motor mount bolt pattern and matching patter on block) aluminum flatplates. Just like a big stack of washers b/t the mount and engine, dead solid, bolts from motor mount pass thru this stack into the block same as JTR but just no setback plate. Hope this is clear?

AIR, the necessity to retorque your heads is more a matter of which gasket you used than which heads your running. I haven't retorqued either buildup I've run, first went a couple years and most recent still going a few months along. (both with RPM heads)I used the GMPP head gaskets this time and Felpro perma torque last time (blue stripe). I'm just polling another list full of Lt1's etc to see what their experiences have been with retorquing.

Yup pricey! Good stuff but I'm pretty sure you only get a pumpkin for that. Still need to decide/source your gears and then get it setup. One aspect I've heard that can be a drawback is if you loose contact with the ground, upon setting the tire back down (washboard/high speed bump) your halfshafts etc feels a great shockload as this tire still had power going to it (less than other but still has power to it) and being gear driven their is no clutch etc to automatically take that shockload so it goes to the joints/halfshaft etc. Some have broken halfshafts etc. ONly drawback I know of though. Hope price comes down, till then I'll take the two Z31 LSD's I can have setup in 2 gear ratios for same overall dollar of just their pumpkin:-)

The TT diff is a v. heavy behemoth requiring a lot of fabrication to stuff under the backside. One local has done it but I didn't see all the details but it looked larger than my 700R4 trans.

My 280ZXV8 has the non power rack'n'pinion, and all clears the steering OK. Drivers side header (cheap hedman, going with a set of 1-3/4's rewarder headers shortly) had to be bent outwards a couple inches AIR to clear the steering shaft and my oilpan is quite tight to the rack/crossmember but I can't see an easy way around this to gain hood clearance and keep the car's weight low. I did just have my oilpan notched out for my last build but yet to drop the motor lower as I need to redesign my motor mounts for this.

I'll dig out the exact weights of my setup later. I was down at the Mt. Shasta/THunderhill (willows, CA) All Datsun Meet a couple weeks and had the opportunity to have my car weighed on corner scales. For background my car is an '80 280ZX with '98 350 shortblock/Al. heads and lots of other lighter weight additions. With the car emptied out for autocross but otherwise stock inside, 7/8's full fuel tank and my 185lb frame in the car it weighed 50.0% front and rear:-) Scale guy rocked my car he was in such surprise:-) came back to 50/50. Total weight was ~3110 with me in it etc. You can do it for more of a 51/49 weight balance a lot cheaper. I've just progressively been making changes to help things out and lower my polar moment of inertia (bringing the cars mass as close to the physical centre of the car as I can for nimbler handling and better balance). Nice thing with chevy's is they're so easy to modify at any time while starting with a more affordable setup (ie. you can easily add in aluminum water pump/heads/intake at any time as your budget suits) Personally I"m not big on any of the kits as any I've known who bought them ended up changing components to better suit their needs or making them for less. If you're paying a shop to do it, it may save them enough time etc or even yourself. You ask what engines are preferred, most any 350 is a fine start. I'd reccomend doing a fair bit of reading first whether on some chevy lists to see what cam/head combos typically yield what range of power/mannerisms etc. The crate motors are fine IMO if you already know that power level is perfectly fine for you. If you end up modifying them etc later I feel you're better off having built your own from the start or having a savy friend help out in hunting down the parts. 700R4 is a fine tranny, just make sure whatever fuel/intake combo you use has the correct swing arc for the TV cable (trans cable) as many don't know that Qjets/performers don't have the correct swingarc and never get their shifts setup right. YOu need a custom plate/tab or offset stud for this (play to do mine later today after 4 yrs trying to get it right finally found a builder who knew what was going on) good luck

I just finally got my Hammer installed after using an OE 280ZX w/ my 700 for over 4 yrs. I love my hammer and wish I had it years ago. It's the pricier version of the Megashifter as I recall but my wife got it for me last Xmas (or I'd of bought the Mega). works great, my exhaust ended up pretty close to my shifter cable though beside my tranny pan...

quote: Originally posted by zedskid: How easy is it to find the 3.364:1 ratio gearset in an R200 (not an R180)? I'm currently running the 3.54:1 ratio and that little extra leverage would be nice, if it's easy to find. Also, is there only one type of gearset for an R200 (dimensions of fit, not ratios), or multiple? You mention changing from a 3.54 to a 3.36 and gaining 'leverage'. You describe a drop in gear ratio and a decrease in torque multiplication not an increase. ie. your acceleration would be ~5% slower w/ the 3.36 assuming your not tractionally challenged (which I assume you're not as you mention gaining leverage). To gain acceleration/leverage you would want to step to a 3.7 (4.5% gain) or 3.9's/4.11's (16.1%). As far as 3.36 R200's go they are v. rare and hard to find. I found one locally a while ago and didn't know it was so rare so sold it to a friend in need. Then couldn't find another so imported the one I have now (but not installed) from California. The 280ZX rearends are a 10mm ring gear bolt which is NOT a simple bolt in to a 12mm 300ZX posi unit just so's you know. (they can all be kept/installed as complete R200's but mixing open gears into posi's can get complicated if ring gear bolts are different sizes, anyone w/ these bushings let me know!). Hope this helps ------------------ Ross Corrigan '80 280ZX, just yanked the faithful '68 327 in favour of a '98 350

How are you going to be using/driving your car?? What size/type tires, suspension setup etc, are you an agressive stoplight racer or enjoyable cruiser? If you're not looking for max power which I suspect from what you've written already going 300hp and T5 I'd recc'd keeping your r180 initially to see how you like the acceration/power of your brand new setup. If you feel it's great then find an R200 in the same or closest ratio. If you want a lot more jump to a 4.11 R200 and you'll get your max bang/buck by far. I sure wouldn't jump to a 3.9 or 4.11 until you know for sure you have the traction to use and the attitude (good or bad:-) to enjoy it. If you do want a 4.11 and can't find any (they're not overly common at all) I have them available for sale.

quote: Originally posted by Head: I have the 1980 power steering box, which really got in the way of the exhaust manifold. I also have a V8 pinto conversion we're doing right now. I thought about using the steering rack from the pinto on the Z to make clearance. I'm really anxious to get a V8 in my Z. I'm not familiar with what clears your power rack but I know it's fairly simple w/ the non power rack'n'pinion. If you plan to keep your current rack check out the offerings of Sanderson who have something for most anyone. Here's a good URL IMO, if anyone finds a more complete site let me know....I've been looking for hugger 1-3/4 headers for some time now. http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson2.htm ------------------ Ross Corrigan '80 280ZX, just yanked the faithful '68 327 in favour of a '98 350

Well if your temp goes down with higher rpm still at an idle (ie. from 750-1000 like you said) I'd have to guess your pulley ratio is too slow for the water pump and bumping yoru idle finally got the coolant flowing fast enough to cool/circulate (you can have coolant too fast or too slow), OR your A/F mixture is too lean at idle and 1000 if triggered by your throttle plates starts your air pulling more air/fuel in to richen your mix and cool it off.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Michael, I agree that the bellhousing is a problem, especially with that big Lakewood blowproof piece. I have that also, as you saw when you visited. I too cut the falnge on the bottom, and it is a 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the stock SBC pan. But the oilpan is just behind the front tires, so that when you come off of a speed bump, it can easily get smacked. If the blowproof bellhousing gets smacked, probably there is no ill consequence. But smack the oil pan, and you are more likely have trouble. I've seen just that happen on a JTR'd V8Z. I saw the (Milodon) circle track pan that is 6-1/2" tall, and thought that would be a good alternative, but I worry that it might not be good for RIGHT turns. I don't know what the design looks like, but I'm a bit concerned that it is set up asymmetrically to only hol oil down in LEFT turns. Anybody know? Pete Howdy Pete:-) Good to be chatting w/ you here as well. I've seen a fair number of oilpans now and if it is a left turn only pan as they often say I'm sure what's been done on one side can be duplicated on the other. Hmm, just last night I was cutting up an OE LT1 windage tray to clear my recently modified LT1 pan. Will see how it works. might even install their 'low oil' sensor if I figure out how it works:-) Amzing how my '68 block was almost identical to my '98 block!

JTR mount PN's and shim stack height works fine, just don't use the offset plates. 700R4 only needs one bolt hole to bolt up the tranny mount, make it any way you want that's fairly easy to undo if you need tranny servicing so you can drop the tailshaft down etc. A single flat plate of steel across the bottom of your tunnel can work fine and then find your proper height for the mount and safely shim the appropriate height and then have that built into your mount. nothing ideal about my geometry right now or my mount (all being changed) so no point copying my setup yet. quote: Originally posted by ChrisM: wondering if anyone has any drawings/mesurements for engines and tranny (th350 or 700r4) for a 280ZX? any help would be GREAT!

Nothing wrong w/ the parts you tried, has to be a fundamental problem IMO. water pump/thermostat/block plugged/rebuilt built too tight (seen that) let us know what you find out, I assume flow through rad seems fine? Hose squeeze test etc? If you do buy a rad I'd have to recc'd the Griffin's, love my 2 row 1.25" setup.

Looking for info/experience on best method to insulate/soundproof my new floors and other body panels? Not to anxious to glue dynamat to my new floors but if it's the best stuff then out comes the heat gun, my floors are galvanized anyhow but just want to hear other s feedback, as well as a quick source (Summit?) so buy it as time is short. Thanks in advance...

FAbricate or buy a really good one from a good shop like a Canton pan, they have v. good quality pans. Many other shallow ones aren't near as good at oil control like cheaper Hamburger pans etc. A good pan can be worth 25-ft-lbs on a good motor. I had a Canton Lt1 pan but it offered me a little less clearance up front but rest was beautiful!

I've seen numerous 280ZX V8 'how to' questions but no responses? I know there are some running around including mine. I just changed from a '68 327 to a '98 350 w/ edelbrock topend. I had my Lt1 pan modified to allow me to drop my motor an additional 1-1.5 inches down on my crossmember. This changes my motor mount configurations so I'm wondering how important it is for the chevy JTR type motor mount to have that upper lip sitting on the edge/lip of the crossmember? It buts up on it v. well and if I lower it my 1.5" I could just slot my crossmember but I'd have to cut off the metal 'nub' 90 degree on teh mount so it could slide down the crossmember, or make an offset plate...comments??? Also, what dimensions are 280ZX V8's running as far as 'stacked' spacer heights on their engine mounts on each side? As far as one compared to another? for ie. 2.5 Inches one side and 3 on the other? I had mine setup correctly a few years ago but last time my shims got mixed and I haven't had time to resort out the proper geometry for driveshaft etc so looking for others info as well to help w/ my own changes. Thanks... ------------------ Ross Corrigan '80 280ZX, just yanked the faithful '68 327 in favour of a '98 350

quote: Originally posted by Head: I was putting a 350 in my 1980 280zx. The steering box was in the way of the headers, so I had to take it back out. What can I do to get around this box? Which steering setup are you running? Mine clears a non power rack'n'pinion '80 setup OK. Had oilpan/crossmember 'closeness', but just had an Lt1 pan modified and now I can drop it another inch to run a better air filter setup than teh dropdown style I've run the past 3 yrs or so.

I won't tell you exactly what material to use but my pass. floor was just replaced w/ galvanized sheetmetal, guage 11 seems to ring a bell but not sure. If you're not into the bigger is always better you can get similar strength from a thinner/lighter/cheaper material by stamping/pressing some 'lines' (as if it was stamped over a long 1/2" bar to give it a long 'trough'). Mine has 2 such troughs/beads in it and this makes it v. rigid. Same principle as corrugated materials basically. I feel a lot of the xtra strength needed in a high torque Z setup is in the upper part of the car to complete the overall torque tube. Overkill on the bottom can just add weight and give you one stiff flat sheet, make sure you make it a stiff 'box' via a good race rollbar setup or cage. Got too babbling now....good luck ------------------ Ross Corrigan '80 280ZX, just yanked the faithful '68 327 in favour of a '98 350

Wow? I've never heard of using non Nissan Hubs w/o a lot of work. '62 chevy hubs just bolted on up front? ie. one could use vette hubs w/ their 13" rotors? I haven't finished my efforts yet but have put a fair bit of time into it so far, seems 300ZX 1st gen 5 lug hubs are a bolt on to my 280ZX and I've been told Nissan front bearings are the same from 70-89 so should work for all. I plan to use the 300 hubs, 13" brembo rotors that'll slip on my studs for easy track maintenance (or anywhere) and the floating 2 piston PBR calipers. Been proven enough on vette's/cobras/camaros so with my lesser weight I hope to enjoy less maintenance. I did the calc's in Herb Puhn's brake book and found 12" rotors to be inadequate for heat/temps and 13's to allow me enough tolerance. I have converted my rear hubs to 5 lug and bolted on some 16x8 rx7TT wheels which I love. ------------------ Ross Corrigan '80 280ZX, just yanked the faithful '68 327 in favour of a '98 350

Just FWIW I know of a few local LS1's that bit the bullet from underclearanced rod bearings, tick tick poof. I have no idea if their are any more or less % failures among Lt1's (of which I've heard of no OE failures) or LS1's (of which I've heard of a few). Just wanted to pass on the odd one has had some troubles and at $8k or so new OE that's a lot of conversion work to have it tick tick poof.

ahh, got the userid straightened out, thanks Dan! Yes I know Danny, good guy. Yes he's been building that car for a little while/years now;^) Don't every pay full price at any dealer for any parts, any contacts on that front are great. Just saw my car yesterday and the bodywork repair is coming along v. well (over 50% done) so hopefully I'll be stuffing this roller 350 mild 400hp setup in their shortly.