Derek

Made some progress on the cam gear adapters. Each one is a 2 piece affair. The inner hub is keyed to the cam and the outer hub holds the gear. The back side of the inner hub holds a thrust bearing. This way I can shim the bearing if I want to decrease the clearance. There will be 5) 5mm bolts in the outer flange to lock the 2 hubs together. Assembled hub. With gear. I had to turn the gear around to get it to line up with the idler gear. And the best part is it fits! Tomorrow I'll do the slots and the bolt holes. I'm going to see if I can get the cams close degree wise before I key the hubs. This way I'll be able to utilize the full travel of the slots. I'm already working on simpler solutions for the next ones.

Look for delivery next week. I'd wait by the door if I were you:)

Just got the word from Xnke. The headers are boxed and shipping tomorrow. I started on the cam adapters today. I don't know how long it will take to get them finished. They may have to go in and out of the lathe a few times to get the chains tracking properly. I've never setup a DOHC head before so there is going to be a learning curve. If everything stays on track I should be ready to start the install next week. I have no plans to engine dyno. I may put it on a chassis dyno if I feel that it's putting out decent power. Don't forget it's only 8.5:1 compression ratio so it's not going to be a power house. This is more about longevity and proving the systems work.

They do now. As I said earlier they were a tiny bit tight. I worked them in a bit and I can spin both by hand. I think it was one of the caps had enough galling that it was causing the problem. All is well....carry on..

Don't know the clearance. They are the same diameter as the stock cams I have. Keep in mind my hand is 56 years a tradesman so my grip on it isn't that great anymore. A couple of the cam towers have a tiny bit of galling up in the caps so I'll polish them out and see if it helps.

Camshafts are in the house! Or rather the shop. They look great and everything measures out. I stripped the rockers from the towers and mounted the cams up in the head. It was snug but I could turn them. Not by hand but with a wrench on the flats it moved very easily. This was a big concern of mine from the beginning but I think it's going to be ok. Now I can start on the cam gear adapters.

Got my plug wires from Magnecore. Great work as usual. Made some custom looms out of grey type 1 pvc. The EDIS coil mounts up under the front intake manifold so for the most part it should be hidden.

Oh it will work....For how long? That's the question:)

PM sent

I'm not sure. Part of the process is me locating victims willing participants with different years to participate in the beta. Looks like you have a 78....Interested?

Yes tweeters in the pillar would be nice. But these are in the kick panels:) Not getting a lot of feedback on fuse box access. In the mean time I figured that like the drivers side there is only one place for the speaker. You will have to remove the panel to change a fuse. I use industrial velcro on mine with good results so that probably will be the plan. Stay tuned

Does Chrome offer a TonyD translation plugin? I sure could use one)

I use it a bit and it's rugged. It will melt through nitrile gloves with a quickness. Use good ventilation.

Well it looks even better in person! The acorn hold down nuts are a little small. I'm going to have to work on that. I'm really happy with the quality of the powder coating. Ivan at http://www.powder-coated.com/ did an amazing job. Fast turnaround and great communication. Well now that I have it back I can measure up and order the plug wires. Getting down to the nitty gritty at this point.

Got some pics from the powder coater. It looks like they did a great job. I used http://www.powder-coated.com in Orlando. I'll post more when I get it back but I'm really happy with the look. I want this in my car right now:)

I'm going to try this again. Hi everyone. Over the years I’ve gotten quite a few requests for kick panel speaker pods for the 280Z. What was holding me back was uninterrupted access to a 280 for measuring and fitting. I finally found one that was close enough and cheap enough for me to buy. One thing that is very apparent is there isn’t a lot of room to work with. Especially on the drivers side. At this point I’ve completed a working prototype for the drivers side and wanted to get input from interested buyers as to the layout on the passengers side. The bad news is there really isn’t any room for a high end 5 1/4” speaker. I designed it around these Pyle PLS502 slim speakers. I also believe the retro sound R525N will fit as well. There is 1.9” available right now for top mount clearance. Most of the higher end speakers require 2 3/16” and that’s not going to work. I found a few models that had a 1 7/8” top mount clearance. The tricky part is how far the grill sticks out beyond the speaker. None of the manufacturers listed grill height. Here is a few shots of the drivers side. Keep in mind this is a rough prototype and the cuts are crude. I have the speaker as far up and as far back as I can get it. There is reasonable room to get your foot over to the dead pedal. It may take a bit of retraining but it’s doable. Clutch pedal just clears grill Dead pedal is accessible. Remember the cuts are really rough on the prototype. Before I start the passengers side I wanted some input as to whether to angle the speaker to improve acoustics or keep it flat to match the drivers side. And how to handle fuse box access. The pricing should be around $100.00 - 125.00 for the pair. The CNC router work is much more complicated than my regular panels requiring multiple setups. So if you think you may be in the market for a set and want to have some input either post here or PM me Thanks Derek

I don't know what's up but I can't seem to get my content to post. Not sure why I keep getting a database error.

Actually it's amazing how restrictions on racing will seed innovation. I still want something like the freevalve rig. That would be so slick to build around.

Wahoooo! I may have to eventually get this in my car soon!

Finishing up the last little bits I need. Made the filter housings today. They use the same wire mesh and oiled foam filters that I use on my other manifold. I've been very happy with the filtration from the foam and saw no reason to do anything different. The housing probably isn't the best choice for power as it will disturb the air flow around the bell. Meh who cares. I like the look. They still need finishing so the tooling marks from a well used CNC mill are visible. I have a little boss on either side that will hold a set screw to hold them in place. this started out as a 4"X8"X.75" piece of 6061. Word from Crane is I'll have my cams by the end of next week. Did an oil flow test and I'm getting excellent results up through the towers to the cam journals. The upper chain tensioner is getting plenty of flow as well. I won't know beyond that until I get the cams installed. Closer every day!

Is it time to start on a custom block:) Mazworxs can machine the casting. Man I wish I had a lot of money.

That's what TonyD and Xnke are advocating. V2 is going on a friends car and he's gravitating towards a high revver. I think it would be worth it for the sound alone:)

I personally would rather put my money in the bottom end. 3.0 stroker that can pull some RPMs would probably be a pretty nice mix. Now if I had a butt ton of money to spend I'd love to have it all. Right now I'd settle for cams and a header...

Actually I saw that Dorman makes them for different models so there my be something out there that will work. Anyone lurking with access to variable hubs and a caliper

Out of everything, the variable sprocket is what would be the deal breaker. Unless the K20 could be adapted. That's a pretty precise piece I'm sure.