Derek

I'll just leave this here https://youtu.be/70FC_Zh8ufk

Yea me too. Unfortunately it's usually in the same state I left it in when I left the night before:) Making progress. Lot's of little things to take care of. Probably fire it off next week some time.

Actually Bill and rich came down to the shop on Friday to check it out. I'm hoping to get Bill to start up the garage parties again. I knew money would be tight at this point so I wanted to stick with the exhaust I had. And that was 2.5".

2.5" Dry fitted the induction system yesterday. No surprises. And at this point in the project that's a good thing:) Since I have a large audience on this I thought I would pass along a tip I did. I normally glass bead aluminum parts to clean them up. These were really ratty so I knew they would only come out marginally well. But then I tried something extra. I threw them in my vibratory finisher with ceramic media. Almost brought them back to original die cast look. So there is derek's tech tip for the day:)

I'm not familiar with that block. If it's the same as a L series except for bore then yes it will fit. I don't think you could move enough air though. ITB's fit with about 1.5" between the shock tower and the velocity stack. The black box is moving forward and the battery is staying put. Got enough on my plate already:)

Speaking of chains, just realized I never posted these. Cams timed and final lubrication test complete. Everything looked great. Here are the finished hubs. This was taken when I was doing the initial cam timing.

I hope you all are as supportive if it throws a chain in the first five minutes:)

Probably will do a few events. I'll post here. There is a strong group in Tampa. Thanks And yes it is February. But I didn't say what year:)

A couple of beauty shots: And it's in:) Hood clears no problem. The gyrations I have to go through to get the valve cover on qualify as performance art. It just clears the hood latch bracket. I think most of the problem is with the oil supply plate that I added. It won't be on the production heads so I hope it won't be an issue going forward. Yes I know the wiring is a mess. It's on the list:)

The problem is the cams on the K20 are too close together to run a 3/8 pitch or 06B chain in a 2:1 configuration. That's why the KA24 works well. To do a single chain you would need to drop down to 1/4" pitch and probably run duplex. Now we are talking custom gears and custom chain guides as the lead from the cams down to the crank will need to be wrestled into alignment to still use the stock lower timing cover. As always. Is it worth it?

Made some progress on the cam gear adapters. Each one is a 2 piece affair. The inner hub is keyed to the cam and the outer hub holds the gear. The back side of the inner hub holds a thrust bearing. This way I can shim the bearing if I want to decrease the clearance. There will be 5) 5mm bolts in the outer flange to lock the 2 hubs together. Assembled hub. With gear. I had to turn the gear around to get it to line up with the idler gear. And the best part is it fits! Tomorrow I'll do the slots and the bolt holes. I'm going to see if I can get the cams close degree wise before I key the hubs. This way I'll be able to utilize the full travel of the slots. I'm already working on simpler solutions for the next ones.

Look for delivery next week. I'd wait by the door if I were you:)

Just got the word from Xnke. The headers are boxed and shipping tomorrow. I started on the cam adapters today. I don't know how long it will take to get them finished. They may have to go in and out of the lathe a few times to get the chains tracking properly. I've never setup a DOHC head before so there is going to be a learning curve. If everything stays on track I should be ready to start the install next week. I have no plans to engine dyno. I may put it on a chassis dyno if I feel that it's putting out decent power. Don't forget it's only 8.5:1 compression ratio so it's not going to be a power house. This is more about longevity and proving the systems work.

They do now. As I said earlier they were a tiny bit tight. I worked them in a bit and I can spin both by hand. I think it was one of the caps had enough galling that it was causing the problem. All is well....carry on..

Don't know the clearance. They are the same diameter as the stock cams I have. Keep in mind my hand is 56 years a tradesman so my grip on it isn't that great anymore. A couple of the cam towers have a tiny bit of galling up in the caps so I'll polish them out and see if it helps.

Camshafts are in the house! Or rather the shop. They look great and everything measures out. I stripped the rockers from the towers and mounted the cams up in the head. It was snug but I could turn them. Not by hand but with a wrench on the flats it moved very easily. This was a big concern of mine from the beginning but I think it's going to be ok. Now I can start on the cam gear adapters.

Got my plug wires from Magnecore. Great work as usual. Made some custom looms out of grey type 1 pvc. The EDIS coil mounts up under the front intake manifold so for the most part it should be hidden.

Oh it will work....For how long? That's the question:)

PM sent

I'm not sure. Part of the process is me locating victims willing participants with different years to participate in the beta. Looks like you have a 78....Interested?

Yes tweeters in the pillar would be nice. But these are in the kick panels:) Not getting a lot of feedback on fuse box access. In the mean time I figured that like the drivers side there is only one place for the speaker. You will have to remove the panel to change a fuse. I use industrial velcro on mine with good results so that probably will be the plan. Stay tuned

Does Chrome offer a TonyD translation plugin? I sure could use one)

I use it a bit and it's rugged. It will melt through nitrile gloves with a quickness. Use good ventilation.

Well it looks even better in person! The acorn hold down nuts are a little small. I'm going to have to work on that. I'm really happy with the quality of the powder coating. Ivan at http://www.powder-coated.com/ did an amazing job. Fast turnaround and great communication. Well now that I have it back I can measure up and order the plug wires. Getting down to the nitty gritty at this point.

Got some pics from the powder coater. It looks like they did a great job. I used http://www.powder-coated.com in Orlando. I'll post more when I get it back but I'm really happy with the look. I want this in my car right now:)