Derek

4 1/2" 2 3/8". Here is the link to his info post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109469-group-buy-on-speedhut-gauges/?hl=speedhut Pricing depends on what you buy. And yes it was quite a bit cheaper going through him.

Yes your right, Speedhut did a fine job on those gauges din't they I machined the caps but they are based on something I saw online. Derek

Update time. Tried to get some decent video and still sounds like crap. I will get something going but right now my efforts are elsewhere. I have about 2000 miles on it mostly daily driving with at least one or two hard pulls a day.I think I've developed some chain slap as I'm getting some noise on startup. The pull side guide is way too far from the chain. I knew it was a problem going in but things got a little crazy at the end. V2 uses a KA chain but a new guide arrangement. Did a teardown and inspection of the cam and rocker assembly at 1500 miles. No big surprises. The rear oil supply line came loose so the rear tower may have been starving a bit. It's hard to say as the towers were used and a few of them were "well used". It runs really well. I stopped having Jeff tune because it just didn't make sense trying to get the perfect tune on a motor I'll be switching out. He has it running very dependably and that's what I'm looking for at this point. Here are a couple of shots of the finished engine as it sits right now. And since I've been a good boy I decided to splurge on something I've wanted for a while. I'm so Happy! I got them through HybridZ member ihiryu. Saved me a bunch and the order went flawlessly. Cutting the cam cores for V2 as we speak. The head is scheduled for radiology testing Thursday. Derek

Something fishy with that. Probably someone trying to scam. Not exactly they type of thing you would sell on craigs list. 1 fast Z (bryan) was supposedly going to be doing the machine work on it.

.090" of runout sounds like a lot to me. I would proceed with caution.

Well I got the Palco cap in. It's nice but the base material was 1/16" not 1/8" like they said. It seems to be well made but I'm not sure it's worth the extra money. 1/16" in the Florida sun will probably not stay flat. Time will tell. Plastic stretches when you vacuum form it. The deeper the draw the thinner it gets. The gauge pods are the deepest draw and they get down to 1/32". I wanted to take the time and do a proper job of installing it but now I may slap it on there. No sense killing myself if it's going to warp in 6 months. Derek

The wall thickness at the opening is only about .1875" wall. The ID tapers in to match a NPT thread. No matter what though, if you wanted a mating surface you would have to weld or screw something on. I was restricted by the exhaust on the bottom and the top head surface on the top. This is basically the biggest I can fit and still have it clear the cutter head during surfacing. One other thing I did that you may like is I added extra internal bosses on the exhaust side. Now the head can be drilled for a one piece flange like mine or individual flanges. That should give you more options when you are designing a system. Derek

Something fabricated or perhaps an inline unit. I imagine it will be according to the type of build people do. 1 1/4 NPT will make plumbing it pretty straight forward although there is enough meat to weld on something custom. For this build I'm thinking an off the shelf inline unit. 90 degree turn off the head, inline Tstat, straight to the radiator. There is also nothing stopping someone from milling the whole thing off and building a manifold like the OSG if they wanted that look. Don't worry it will look a lot more normal when I get done with it. Although there is plenty of quench area if I left it like it is:)

Hi everyone. Sorry I haven't had time to get any video done. Been a little busy with this: This is V2 of the head and most likely the production version. The major changes are: I now have the water exiting over each exhaust port and flowing into a central tube. This is the same way OSG and others do it. I opted to try and make it part of the casting to save the cost of making a separate water manifold. Plus it's a really good example of how versatile 3D sand printing is. The outlet is designed to be tapped 1 1/4" NPT but you could easily weld something on instead. I added a rear sump for the oil to drain into the stock oil return. This will do away with the external drain tube that I'm currently using. I bridged the rear cam tower boss and added a connecter between the back of the head and the tower. This is where the rear oil feed will go. I redesigned the combustion area so that it has plenty of meat for those who want to get creative. There are a ton of little changes that reflect things I ran into during the machining of the prototype. Here is a great shot that shows 3 of the upgrades. The sump, the feeder boss and one of the water exit ports. Here is the combustion area. The sand is really rough because I went a little overboard blowing out the loose sand. It all get's machined anyway. Water outlet and core print in the front of the tube. The core prints are designed to be tapped 3/4" NPT so that one could be uses for a sensor. Now I have to get it in the mill for machining! Derek

I ordered the Palco a couple of days ago. I'll measure it up with a set of calipers when it gets here. Derek

I called Z car depot and he felt it was a lot less than 1/8". I then called Dashtop/Palco and they said it starts out at 1/8" and thins out in the deeper draw areas. It would be almost full thickness on the top section of the dash. At this point I'm leaning that direction. It's a lot more money at $159.00 but if it is indeed thicker it's worth it to me. My car is a daily driver and sit's in the Florida sun all day.

A variation on NewZeds idea. Have a sleeve machined that has the ID of the OD of the transmission and a wall thickness of .125" or so. Preferably interference fit. Heat the sleeve and slip over rear of transmission. Pop new seal into transmission. Pack the cavity between the seal and the new ring with JB Weld putty. Not sure if your drive shaft yoke has a dust collar or not but that could affect things. Derek

It looked good for a little while but cracked again. I'm going to do a full cover and spray it with the SEM trim black. My main worries are the new cover warping because it's too thin. They recommend putting adhesive only on the edges when you install. I guess this lets it float above the old dash. I would prefer to bond it all over but you run the risk of having the glue areas leave "witness lines" through the cover after it's painted. Derek

Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to know what thickness the plastic is? Thanks Derek

If you don't have a lot of blow-by then you may be able to have a breather element on the valve cover. But then you only have half of the system hooked up. The only time you will be evacuating the crank case is when there is vacuum present at the PCV valve. During no/low vacuum high RPM there will be no assisted evacuation. This is how I have mine setup and so far it seems to be enough. The blow by has a place to go and that is through the filter on the valve cover. If there is a lot of oil mist in your blow by then the filter will become soaked and start dripping. If I had an air box as opposed to velocity stacks I would probably consider plumbing it there.

Hi I'm looking at full caps. There are a few out there and I was hoping to get some feedback from people who have recently purchased. So far I'm looking at these four sources https://zcardepot.com/interior/dashboard-parts/dash-cover-cap-full-overlay-interior-black-70-72-early-73.html http://www.zcarsource.com/dashboard-cap-full-face-240z-70-6-72-new_8_77937_65035.html http://www.dashtop.com/products/dash-cover-1970-1972-datsun-240z http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-2040 For all I know they are all the same cap just different suppliers. There is quite a price difference as well. From $92.00 to $159.00. Knowing what I do about thermo formed ABS the thicker the better. I'm open to other sources. Thanks Derek

It my be BSPT but some of the pitches are close.

Mine screws right into 1/4 NPT and it's factory Nissan. Derek

Nope. No problems at all. Gasket is still sealing, the pipes have a nice amber dark blue color. no issues at this point. No leaks that I can see. Sure is nice having the exhaust on the opposite side of the induction.

Yes but it has my manifold so that makes it ok. I'll update it at some point:) Got just over 300 miles on it with zero issues. Multiple 7000 RPM first and second gear runs. No new valve train noises. Got a few oil weeps but that doesn't surprise me. Minor stuff that won't apply to V2. Daily driving it. Hasn't broken down a single time. Get up in the morning and it fires right up. Jeff has the Megasquirt working well. I don't want to put a ton of time tuning just yet as things are still very fluid. Trying to get a decent video but it's tough without the right equipment. I finally bought a mike adapter for the iphone so I can use an external microphone. I'm mostly just enjoying it. It's not the fastest right now but it's a blast to drive and sounds great. Derek

I just went through all this with my twin cam head. Right now I have half a system. PCV drawing through an air filter on the valve cover. Since I don't have an air filter housing there is no way to leverage the air flow produced on the incoming side of the butterflies at higher RPMs. If I had an air filter I would plumb it like the factory. Ultimately the header valve setup may be the best way to go for me.

My understanding is the flow changes direction depending on manifold vacuum. At high vacuum it pulls fresh air from the air filter via the valve cover through the partially open PCV valve that is connected to the crank case. At high RPM the spring in the PCV valve opens it fully and the flow reverses pulling the oily air through the air filter housing. If my memory is correct and you look at pictures of the stock air filter housing you will see the end of the tube is cut at an angle to create a Venturi. Been a while since I've seen one of those up close though:) Derek

I have a list of people who I have been communicating via hybridZ PMs. It ebbs and flows as peoples situations change. V2 is sold to a friend of mine locally and will be the baseline for machining costs. So far castings costs should be holding to my original estimate. After V2 is done if no one is ready to buy then I will do one more casting and put it on the shelf and see what happens from there. PM me if you want to be on the "pioneer" list:)

The motor I bought from FHP Tom was balanced. When I pulled the pan there was a fair amount of work done to the crank. Whether it was done correctly or not I have no idea. I'm also still running the stock EDIS controller which is really the limiting factor. I've never really had any issues with noise. But then again maybe I've never demanded from it what others have. I will say that all of my sensor wiring is shielded and EVERY ground associated with megasquirt is single point. Plus not running a dizzy and using high quality plug wires makes a huge difference. My advice to anyone who can't fully tune their own car is to find a tuner first and run what system they are comfortable with. There is a huge difference between "my car runs" and "my car is tuned" I was able to make my car run. Just remember you youngsters, you can tune a piano...but you cant tune a fish:) Words to live by.

Hi Everyone. Just checking in. I've got about 120 miles on it with everything from idling at traffic lights to lugging through my neighborhood to 3 gears worth of 6200+ shifts and it's doing great. Zero problems. I've been daily driving it for the last three days and the tune isn't quite there yet but it's workable. Cold starts are a little grumbly. No new noises in the valve train. No video yet as work has been busy and I really wanted to get the tuning closer. Speaking of tuning I've hired Jeff Linfert of Linfert Performance to help me out with the Megasquirt. Really happy with the results so far. Right now we are tuning via email and tuner studio and he has most of the major items dialed in. I'll try and get some video up soon. I have to pull the intake to add some vacuum ports and it's supposed to rain here for a few days so it will probably be Monday or Tuesday. I can't even imagine this thing on a real motor. It just keeps pulling and pulling.... At 4500 RPM it screams "Leeeeeeeeeroy Jenkins!" And then I shift around 6200. I'm such a puss:)