Derek

I don't know what's up but I can't seem to get my content to post. Not sure why I keep getting a database error.

Actually it's amazing how restrictions on racing will seed innovation. I still want something like the freevalve rig. That would be so slick to build around.

Wahoooo! I may have to eventually get this in my car soon!

Finishing up the last little bits I need. Made the filter housings today. They use the same wire mesh and oiled foam filters that I use on my other manifold. I've been very happy with the filtration from the foam and saw no reason to do anything different. The housing probably isn't the best choice for power as it will disturb the air flow around the bell. Meh who cares. I like the look. They still need finishing so the tooling marks from a well used CNC mill are visible. I have a little boss on either side that will hold a set screw to hold them in place. this started out as a 4"X8"X.75" piece of 6061. Word from Crane is I'll have my cams by the end of next week. Did an oil flow test and I'm getting excellent results up through the towers to the cam journals. The upper chain tensioner is getting plenty of flow as well. I won't know beyond that until I get the cams installed. Closer every day!

Is it time to start on a custom block:) Mazworxs can machine the casting. Man I wish I had a lot of money.

That's what TonyD and Xnke are advocating. V2 is going on a friends car and he's gravitating towards a high revver. I think it would be worth it for the sound alone:)

I personally would rather put my money in the bottom end. 3.0 stroker that can pull some RPMs would probably be a pretty nice mix. Now if I had a butt ton of money to spend I'd love to have it all. Right now I'd settle for cams and a header...

Actually I saw that Dorman makes them for different models so there my be something out there that will work. Anyone lurking with access to variable hubs and a caliper

Out of everything, the variable sprocket is what would be the deal breaker. Unless the K20 could be adapted. That's a pretty precise piece I'm sure.

I will say from a manufacturing stand point adding VCL or VCT is going to cost plenty. Right off the bat double the price of the cams and double the price of machining. Then there will need to be a custom variable timing gear hub made and custom cam towers as well since the stock ones won't work. Vtec looks less less attractive when the head is now going cost you and additional $8000.00. Edit: Had my VTLCLTC all jumbled:)

I've come to the conclusion that anyone that want's to make power with a NA motor should plan on custom pistons. They really will be the variable that makes everything work together. The Turbo guys will have an easier time for sure. Bolt it on and blow. Especially people who are already at the flow limit with their L head. The V2 version won't have a combustion chamber cast in like the prototype. There will be plenty of meat to machine whatever style you want. I want to have a A2 combustion chamber in my library so that people who wan't a "stock" chamber can get it. It will also make communicating with piston companies easier. I believe the A3 chamber is asymmetrical to accommodate the economy version of the vtec that it uses. One of the intake valves are "lazy" and only opens a slight amount during normal operation and then opens fully at higher RPMs. This is for milage reasons and not performance. At least that's what I deducted from my research.

I had the Spahl system for a while and it gave up the ghost. I went to replace it and ran into the same issue with the NLA thing. I opted for this Pyle unit http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PWD701/4-Button-Car-Remote-Door-Lock-Vehicle-Security-System It worked for me as I already had the door lock solenoids installed. The black dragon kit looks pretty nice.

Not sure if there are any K20 lurkers following this thread but I'm trying to get my hands on a A2 head. The heads I have are A3 and the combustion chamber is different. My preference would be a cheap junker that they weren't going to use. As long as one chamber is good. After that would be a loaner as I have no use for it after I scan the combustion chamber. I would pay shipping both ways Just throwing out a few feelers. PM me or email at "kick at red240 dot com" Thanks Derek

Too late. I'm already too attached to my artisanal hand crafted knurled cap:) Thanks for the thought though. But since you're feeling generous PM me your parts inventory and I'll pick a few things out:)

I'm sure you noticed how fast I said yes when you offered to do it for the price of materials:) I'm no dummy. If you hadn't offered I would have stuck with plan A which was manipulating a set of stock headers to fit. I knew money was going to start getting tight at the end and I was right.

That Jeep sensor that Madkaw is playing with looks promising. Cheap too.

Looking good Xnke. Who knows, you may finish before Crane:) Thanks Derek

Thanks for the visuals. I'll double check them tomorrow but I'm sure we have plenty of clearance.

Well as long as Rossman's measurements are correct it will fit. Do you like how I set him up for the blame if it doesn't fit. That's the mark of a true businessman:) Actually there is plenty of room if you don't run a traditional cap and wires. If you do run a cap and wires it may get a bit tight but it will work.

I almost posted this earlier. No really:) But I decided to machine an oil cap instead. It seems to me the events relating to the piston are the most critical. And a crank fire system will give you that. Timing chains stretch and distributer gears have lash and wear. On my CNC conversions I use all kinds of optical encoders and slotted optical sensors. By the looks of the wheel that DIY auto tune sells that is what the ZXT dizzy uses. An slotted optical sensor. I also use proximity switches for positioning verification on my tool changer. The slotted sensors and a slotted wheel are far more accurate than the proximity sensors. So My gut feeling is a slotted sensor with a slotted wheel crank driven will give you the most accuracy. Don't forget there is nothing stopping you from stacking multiple wheels and using dual sensors to accomplish what ever counting you need. Put it in a sealed housing and drive it off of the crank bolt and away you go. For now I'll be sticking with my EDIS:)

The Cam towers are rotated 180 degrees so the number 5 (rear) tower is in the front and the sensor plate is machined off to clear the timing chain. But you could use the Honda sensors I suppose. But that's not my department:)

In two posts I learned more about injection and ignition timing than I ever knew. Thanks. I don't need any of that for this build. I think if I was going to do it for a customer i would cut a U shaped chunk out of the back of the valve cover. I would mount a sub plate to the back of the head that matches the U shaped cutout and mount my sensors there. Especially if it's an encoder or shaft driven sensor. Trying to keep a shaft driven item properly aligned on something like a valve cover that is removed frequently is problematic. Better to have it on a fixed plate. As long as the back of the cams are drilled and tapped there really isn't anything other than clearance between the valve cover and firewall stopping someone from implementing any of these things. The stock Honda K20 has 2 sensors in the rear reading 2 wheels bolted to the cams. They are part of the end cam tower and the valve cover seals against it. I have people interested in this head that want the ultimate high HP L6 build. And I have others that want one because it looks so freeking cool. Best not to loose sight of that.

Actually I'm running EDIS but I get your point. I'm all ears:) That's whats causing me to hedge. When I made the EDIS adapter kits, at the time it was the dominant choice. I don't see that for the cam fire. Optical requires clean and sealed. That means it must reside outside the valve cover. Since it has to reside outside the valve cover there is really nothing for me to add as there is plenty of wall thickness to accomplish most any kind of mounting. And if not then an adapter plate could be added. Even if there was an internal solution there really isn't a lot of room inside to do it. Personally I don't see not having a cam driven solution out of the box as being a problem. Having a way to attach to the cam is the biggest issue. After that it's a mater of some fabrication. It's a problem that will solve itself when the first person that wants it makes it happen. People spend a lot more on an OSG and they run a dizzy. It looks a lot closer than it is. Thanks I'm really happy. I'm still waiting on the shoe to drop and I have ugh oh moment. Fortunately Tony has caught a few. Some a little later than I would have preferred

Getting a little tight in there! Got the plug tubes done. Decided to dry fit the rocker assembly. The nice thing about the K20 was the cylinder spacing was shorter than the L6. This meant things were easier to fit. In order to take up the space between the rockers and towers I decided to machine some washers out of 6061 aluminum in 3 thicknesses and I also purchased some .002" shim washers. Was bit tedious but really went pretty quickly. Here is a shot in application. Had a little free time yesterday and decided to make my own oil cap. I'm really happy with the results. This is right after machining. It looked nice but it was a little too blingy for my taste so I gave it a little time in the vibratory finisher. Looks more appropriate for the build style I'm using. Getting to the end of it. Only a couple more things to make and I really need the cams for that.

Regarding kerning. You are ALL right. I used the computer to lay it out and that's how it decided to do it. The camera angle is not helping things either. Ultimately it looks off in person and I should have caught it. And if all I was doing was a valve cover I probably would have but I've got a few things going on these days:) . It bothers me enough to where I'm going to fix the pattern for future valve covers. Regarding the font. I like it and that's all that matters. Period. End of it. The CAS issue is this: There is no better or best. Only what's right for you. My goal is to make it so that as many systems as possible can be run. As Rossman said he sent me dimensions for the 280Z CAS and I verified that V2 of the head will accommodate it. Direct cam angle sensing is a little different. The only accommodation I'm going to make for now is to drill and tap the rear of future cam cores so that will be available for use to mount things. I suppose you could adapt a 300ZX CAS to the back or front of the valve cover and drive it with one of the cams. I'm not going there but that's why they made tig welders. Running the 280 dizzey with a new wheel and cover would probably make the most sense. Derek