Geking

Woa buddy, you are new here. HybridZ is more for non standard modifications than 'do I need a scatter shield' (the plate that covers the bottom of your bellhousing) If you have a good flywheel, and a good starter, then you are not installing it correctly or you are not getting enough power to the starter so it is chattering. I would take the starter off the car and see if the gear pops out when you go to start, and also to see if it chatters. Also, see if you can paint the gear to see how it is engaging with the flywheel.

I did the same thing. I took it as an opportunity to bypass the TB coolant line.

What is your fuel pressure when the car dies?

A coworker at my last job gave me this bike, it was sitting out in his back yard for 15 years, so it is in pretty sad shape. fixed it up and sans tires, it is technically ride-able. I took the carbs out and cleaned all the passages I could find, I cleaned the diaphragm slide(these carbs seem similar to SUs), and I took the jets out and cleaned them as well, making sure that none of the jets where clogged afterwords. Before I did this, the bike would start up, but die suddenly after 5 min. or so. Also, it would not rev at all when first started, but it would rev more when the bike warmed up a little. Additionally, it favored the front cylinder, with the idle dropping noticeably when pulling the spark plug wire, but no drop when pulling the rear's wire. I once coaxed it to rev up to about 7K, but it was stumbling all over the place. Now that I have cleaned the carbs, it starts up even better, will not die after a few min, but will not rev at all, it dies if I try, and after ideling for 15 min, it will struggle to rev to 4k. It still favors the front cyl, and it is hard to start when warmed up, but not impossible like before. I did not put the air duct work back in, and when revving the bike, the slides in the carbs do not move, is this normal? I don't know alot about bikes, and I don't have the FSM or whatever bikes have to really poor over this thing. Any bike advice you guys may have would be much appreciated. Thanks again! Rob

Too bad you spent the time on those carbs, if you can and if you will still pass smog, switch to some 70-72 SU roundtops. Glad to hear another z back on the road, I second the great color, looks very clean for hpw soon you are starting the project.

In our aria, for a good clean running Z, that is not too bad. My first z ran, but just, was missing parts, leaked every fluid, was missing lights, oh, and had major rust issues and I bought it for more than 1/2 that. I would however take the above suggestion and knock the price down for every little issue found. Also, I would truly verify this 99% rust free thing. Good luck, I will take a look at it if you want.

I dd my 1990 300zx NA 2+2. I did, however drive my 280z up from the bay to Burke at night in the last major rainstorm 3 or so weeks ago. Hitting standing water going 70 stripped the ducttape covering the drain plug holes in the floorpan and gave me a bath as well as scaring the crap out of me.

I can vouch for Eiji, I know him through the Z car club of NoVa. I got my dash cap and spindle pins from him. He has come over to my house and vice versa. A agree that he is a bit of an odd duck, called me a pain in the ass, but he has looked out for me. I'll take a look at your car free of charge, not that I am a professional mechanic or anything, but I would like to think I know these cars. Hell, I may even have some parts for you. EDIT: there is no 'real' pro Z mechanic in NOVA, there is a team out in Dulles that put dual webbers on my 240z for the previous owners. They used wood screws at 45* angles to hold the throttle linkages in place! There also was at least 4 years ago an old salt Nissan guy in the Tyson's corner dealership that seemed to know his s30 stuff, but I don't know if he is still there.

I don't see why not. Give it a try.

That is an easier way than what I have done. I unbolted the crossmember from the car, then jacked the frame up on the passenger side.

revlis240, the small block moved from a 2 piece main seal to a one piece in 86, so you should be fine. Pre 86 all small block bolt patterns are the same using the 2 piece main seal, and from 86 till the LS1 all flywheel bolt patterns are the same using the one piece main seal(yes the LT1 uses a small block flywheel).

Many people have said that the T5 is a better option than the t56. This is due to the fact that the t5 is much lighter than the t56, and that the extra gear just means more shifting. Also, I have heard that the extra gear does not give you anything more besides an extra shift, as with the gearing, weight of the car, and power of the motor, it does not matter as much. Trust me, a nonWC t5 can more than hold a stock LT1. Expect to pay at least 4 times as much for the T56. Edit, also in some S30s (esp the later ones) a t5 means that you do not have to cut off the trans mounting points or hammer out the tunnel.

if I am not mistaken, only the 260Z and 280Z had rear sway bars, so you would have to come up with a mount for them in a 240z. I beleve the kit motorsport sells has the provisions for this.

The 280zx turbo injectors have about 20% less resistance than the z31 injectors. The answer seems a little obvious, and it is my guess that if your ECU is only firing 1/2 of the injectors it is doing that because the other bank may have slightly less resistance and it is shutting that bank down to protect itself from burning out. Using these injectors with out resisters can pull as many as 18 amps per bank. (2.3 ohm as minimum resistance per injector, 1/((1/2.3)*3) = .77, 14volts/.77 =18.2amps It is only 12 wires, try reinstalling the resistors.

I second that this is a good setup. I have about 500 miles on this setup and it has treated me well. Additionally, it was the only real way (without using a slave throwout) to get the clutch arm to move with my 168 tooth flywheel.

No, you don't need to replace the cylinders, just put the right one in the left side and vice versa. (but you need to leave the little arms attached to the locks on the correct side.)

Looks like you are coming along nicely!

Wow, thanks, that is my next purchase now, beats out the interior!. My LT1 seems a bit slow for a v8

Ok I took some photos, but they are not very good for the exhaust is in the way and I only had time to jack it up. So, I made a diagram! The bottom mount goes from one side, through a hole on the trans, then to the other mount. If trans mounts did anything besides support the weight of the back of the motor and of the trans, then why are the mounts so flimsy? The Ron Tyler diff mount can not use a standard trans mount because it tears it in two on slight engine braking, and look at the stock mount on the T5, that has INCHES of play in it. As for the steel cables, they are pulled taught, it is slightly tricky to get the last bolt in, as you have to have the trans at the exact right height to get the bolt in, and even then you need to angle it in using the closed side of a wrench on the bolt head. There is NO play in this set up. I have kept my hand on the shifter, reved to 3k, and dumped the clutch. No movement was felt in the trans. The professional rigger that made this mount said that the cables used where strong enough to lift the entire car up by several orders of magnitude. Pros: saves weight Adjustable Easy to make, no welding required (this was the biggie, as I was just learning to weld and I did not trust myself to make a mount that would hold) Cons: Some guys can think that it is unsafe because it uses cable. It is slightly harder to line up the last bolt than with a standard trans mount. The ends of the cables are sharp. You have to toy with it to get the cables as tight as possible while setting up the mount (once set up you don't need this when dropping/reinstalling the trans), and this can be difficult if you are alone. (need someone to pull the cable tight while the other puts the clamps on) Nice time machine. I did not know about that movie till I watched Big Bang Theory. EDIT: Again, I know the welds on the exhaust are beyond terrible. It was the first thing I welded and the wirefeed welder I was using kept jamming up/feeding at an inconsistent rate. It is only there until I can afford to get a real exhaust made (and yes I should cover up the speedo cable port)

This is a common problem and it has been written about many times, (could have been found via search!). If you take your doors apart and swap cylinders (leave the little arms on the same side) this will solve the problem. After 30 odd years the shoulder on the cylinder has worn away and there is not enough moment to unlock the doors. This is a good time to take out your door lock/latches and bath them in carb cleaner, then shoot some lithium grease in there to get rid of the gumminess.

I will see about taking photos when I get home from work. You will have to excuse my crappy home made exaust.

4 stroke motor means 2 revolutions per ignition event, so on a 6 cyl motor, you would get 3 sparks per RPM.

I am using a t5. I did not have to widen the trans tunnel, nor did I have to cut out the stock trans mounting brackets. To support the trans I had a professional rigger from the Kennedy center who is also a Z car guy make me some mounts out of steel cable. No movement from the sides, very adjustable in height. I have no drive line noise or vibrations. I can take some pictures if people desire. This set up has about 500 hard miles on it so far, and I could not be happier with it.

Does it look like the suspension on that side has been replaced? Would you really want to spend the time and money on a car that was through something so major that it tore the unibody of the car? I am by no means an expert, but I think that if someone hit something on the passenger side wheel hard enough it might cause that damage. I would bet good money that the frame of that car is not straight and it would take more than it is worth for a full restro mod, esp with the added abuse of a V8 car.

Citation needed