Geking

I did search and found http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/74897-wrapping-headers/page__p__713175__fromsearch__1entry713175 Has varying reports. I am using cheap Ebay headers so I wont worry about them rusting through or cracking after 100,000 miles. The reason why I am doing this is the wiring harness tape on the passenger side is burning off due to the temps. (gen2 chevy small block) I tried some advance auto parts wrap, and the stuff smoked like crazy, went darker and then caught fire when I held the motor at 3k. Am I using the wrap wrong, should make some sort of heat shield (if so I would like to hear your oppinion on how to make and mount it) or some other option. Thanks in advance.

I would like to get some help identifying my 1996 LT1. It does have iron heads, and also has the B-Body pump, yet it has 2 knock sensors. I am lead to believe that only the Corvette had 2 knock sensors, thus my confusion. Given that, is there a cheap cam/lifter combo you can recommend to liven things up a little? Thanks!

I let a 305 TBI go in a deal that cost me $150 just to get rid of it. I later ended up getting an LT1 so I would say: If you are going to go though the effort of swapping, do it right and do it once. My 280z has not moved under her own power for over a year now. To be honest, I am glad for it. It gives me time to fix all rust, paint the car, re-make the wiring harness, do fun flairs like fender mirrors, and take my time enjoying it. If you look for a good deal, you will find it in less time than it take to strip your car and do the bodywork. Also, once you have pulled the motor and tranny out, many things will hit a 'while I am at it' or I need to for this to work.

I don't think they will fit. Do you have angled spark plugs, or are they level to the ground? If they are angled, (as with AL LT1 heads) or some chevy small block heads, the manifolds will not fit. Also, do not buy the post 1 manifolds painted black. They don't use high enough temp paint. (I bought said manifolds, fits on my 78 S30 with an LT1 Iron heads, JTR brackets w.o. the cross member spacers. I get twin smoke stacks and the paint is crunchy between the center 2 runners )

Scum. I have been scammed as well, so I know how you feel. I almost did the turbo route, and I am in the middle of a LT1 build, so I am interested in your build. As of such, if you wish to give me what information you have on him I can see what info on him I can get for you. (Line of work and hobbies makes it easier for me to find out info on people) For some reason people tend to ship you your stuff when you start calling them at 6 am every morning

Thanks Tomaz, when it came to working out some sort of SC I took one look and thought of this set up. Slight modification, I am using the horizontal tab on the side of the trans, and welded a plate to the open side of the fork for the other end of the slave. I am just using a cheap no name SC, as well as an 11" clutch, so my T5 (chevy) set up is a bit different. Just need to run the line and bleed, will post back if it does!

What gen Chevy small block are you running? What pump are you using? For example, there where at least 3 different pumps from 90-97... That would mess around with the mounting locations.

Mark, was it an oscilloscope? That is the tool I would use.

For the same type of O2, just pop your car into advanced auto, find the part, then click the link of what other cars use this part. No, they do not. I am just going to get the exhaust guys to weld the threaded part of a spark plug anti fouler to the down pipe, or just to ask them to make a bung mark. You can always drill a hole and thread it, but why get a heated O2 so close to the motor?

Well, seeing as mine is a 78z with a 96 LT1 Iron head (I don't think it will work with Al heads due to spark plug angle), using JTR mounts, I would say yes. It is a bit close on the steering rack, but it does not touch. (I am NOT using the two spacers from the cross member to the frame rails.) I plan to put O2 on the driver's downpipe. EDIT cavimandan, perhaps http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevrolet-LT-1-5-7-LH-Exhaust-Manifold_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem200316426926QQitemZ200316426926QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-GMC-Forward-Control-Lt-5-7-Exhaust-Manifold-85-88_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem200269737910QQitemZ200269737910QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories or something LIKE this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1955-1956-Chevrolet-Corvette-Bel-Air-Exhaust-Manifold_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem160328001899QQitemZ160328001899QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

My hugger headers came in. They look pretty good, only neg I would give them is some paint runs on the finish. I got them from rodpartsdealer for $69, including gaskets and hardware. And they fit!

Indeed, very nice, I just bought the same thing, for $20 less on ebay. Wish I spent the $20 more for a reliable source...

Sounds like you have it, but if you need any help with coilpacks and MS, let me know. Just fired up my Z, Ford's EDIS was a huge help, granted, but it is not too hard.

Could it be a bad connection from the battery post to the battery wires? It can pull some power, but the resistance would cause the voltage to drop once the amperage goes up. V=IR

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm - information on EDIS with MS. You can always get the timing gear from http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/trigger-wheels-c-48.html

yep. Six is right. I would just do a gut swap with a 280z tach. Its not too hard if you just take it slow. The foam pads at the back may have stuck a bit to the metal casing when you attempt to remove the guts. I had to do this for my 73, as they are not easy to find. (73 uses a 240z case with the 260 and 280z style pickup. The pickup is a single wire coming from the - side of the coil. If your tach jumps all over the place and will not go above 3k, add in a resistor inline. (I have forgotten the exact rateing, somewhere like 4K I think, only 1/4 watt should be fine)

very nice! Truely puts my Zs to shame. Sadly, I don't have the $1500 for a good gnose. And what class hitch is that on the 240z in the 2nd pic?

Indeed, how could his MPG be something besides 0 if the speedo is getting 0?

I have seafoamed a 89 Celica, a 98 Civic, a 73 240z and a 19 300ZX. (all besides the civic are or at some point where mine). A buddy of mine did it to his 91 celica, and was an idiot about it. He poured the whole thing into the TB at WOT, and bent a piston rod.

Shesh, if you are ever near Washington DC, let me know, free parts/repairs for you. Wow, I guess US border idiots are there because they can not get a more rewarding job. Sorry to hear your story man, good luck.

Have you looked into the start ballast resistor bypass? When the 280z was in a normal running state, it sent the pulse for the coil though a ballast resistor (under the coil, rectangular.) My guess is, you have the system wired into a short, but the resistor is saving you normally at the run, but at start, the car bypasses the resistor and goes right to the coil. Check your voltages at run, see if the resistor is heating up... Just a hunch, I could be quite wrong.

Yes, you can use MegaSquirt, and even make your own harness. For the Z, no fancy dash electronics are needed, and to get rid of the nasty optispark, just use a Ford EDIS 8 system. With that, Megasquirt can even control your spark timing. An assembled MS kit and the EDIS should not cost you more than $350ish. Mine can read the MAF, and will easily adapt to FI or any other changes I wish to make. Quick question, and sorry to form hijack, but what T5 Bellhousing will bolt to an LT1 (sorry, tranny newbie)

Ok, if I take a chevy T5 bellhousing, can I mount a t5 to an LT1? For example, would THIS bolt up to a T5?

I am doing an LT1 swap into my 78Z:burnout:. A chevy friend of mine gave me his T56 driveshaft and Centerforce 2 clutch, pressure plate and flywheel with only 500 miles on them. I have not sourced a Tranny yet, but all the T56s I look at are way too expensive(>$700, sometimes $1500). Soo... A local Z friend of mine is willing to trade a Z31 T5 for the injectors out of my L28. Can I make this trans bolt up to my LT1. How? I know I would need a new bellhousing (would a normal chevy V8 housing work?), and depending on the tranny, I could not use the Datsun or the chevy shaft (I know about the lengths and yokes)(I have heard that most ford output shafts are the same as a 280z...) I guess what I am looking for here is: Yes, the input and output shafts are the same, or, No, the shafts are different, you would need some clutch or need to modify a Z31 driveshaft. Thanks in advance.

Well, thanks for all the input. I have been a lurker here for quite a while, so I have noticed said iceing. The reason that the motor and tranny are so cheap is: They are at a you pull it shop, and used. Oh, and you have to pull it yourself.