Geking

For the tach, you can take six of the coil packs and run the - inputs together like in http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm at the bottom of the page. If you do six, you will not need to re-calibrate the tach. (Note, I would recommend going 3 skip 1, 3, skip one, not 6 skip 2. This will smooth out the input to the tach.) Not sure on the speedo, I assume it is an electronic output, sorry. Oil and temp sensors, see if you can replace the stock sensors with the Datsun sensors. On my LT1 the oil pressure sensor and temp sensor screwed right into where the stock GM sensors sat.

Issue was that I had not bled the air out of the water pump, so the hot coolant was not reaching the thermostat to open it.

Where would one get this heat foil wrap?

I second, but how does your hood latch?

Thank you so much. This is way beyond anything that I could have hoped for.

I am interested in getting a map that the car can drive for 5 or so miles on. The only time I have to work on my car is at night, and I live in a quite little neighborhood with lots of young kids (one being my own). The exhaust on the car is kinda loud so I am just looking to escape my neighborhood so I can do the tuning somewhere else. I actually think I can manipulate your rich boosted map in the other thread to do as such as the only think preventing it from doing the drive is low RPM low KPA tuning. (It stalls out if you come up to a stop sign but will hold idle nicely)

Thanks so much. I will look for them with great anticipation.

Hey guys, sorry to start 2 threads in just as many hours. With that said, I am working on tuning my bone stock Iron head LT1. I was wondering if anyone has a megasquirt MSQ file that they could send me so I have a working start. Right now I can idle and I have enough tuning that I can comfortably drive it to 4k rpm, but it stalls on decel and I don't have any of the spark mapping done, so it would just save me some time. Thanks!

Thanks! I just found that I can get a 160* thermostat for my car as well as a 14.7 PSI cap. The two should definitely do the trick.

Not quite sure, what ever the stock Datsun 280Z cap pressure is. According to Source the stock cap pressure is 4.7PSI Also, my Tstat is 195* Herm, that might be my problem... Attached should give some laughs. I thought I had just overfilled it at the time, nope. I know, I need to paint the underside of my hood... Edit, CIMG0078.mp4 You aren't permitted to upload this kind of file Herm, I guess I can't share...

I have an LT1 in my 78Z. I am using the stock radiator, radiator cap, and overflow tank. If I fill the overflow tank up to the full line and let the motor warm up, it starts overflowing in a little fountain out of the air hole in the tank. Once the car settles into its temp at 210* F, this stops after a while. The issue is, after the car cools down, it sucks all the coolant back into the radiator, and then it sucks in air. What would be the solution, do I just get a bigger tank, or do I need a higher PSI radiator cap? Thanks in advance.

or you can use the diagram at the bottom of this page. It works with datsun 3 wire tachs. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

I point out every Z I see, then make a commentary on what year it most likely is, and what has been done to it. Thrills my wife to no end. Well, My family and I have a 15 month old son, live in one of the highest Cost of living arias, and yet somehow I have 3 Zs and a garage attic full of parts. Every junk yard I strip over to get the best parts for cheap. I traded 10 hours of computer repair labor for my LT1, sight unseen. I work 40 hr a week, come home and take care of our son till he goes to bed, run my freelance jobs, and go to school as an engineering student, and yet somehow work gets done on my cars. I have our 240z in storage in upstate New York, yet I have a spare suspension down here that I have worked over till it is painted and ready for the car, whenever it comes back... I think I am too dedicated for my own good. Seriously. edited for typos

Searching would be helpful, you would have found http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=67673 very quickly. Also, make sure that your fuel system is not clogged with rust and you do not have stale fuel. Edit: Link error

I second that. Also check the dropping resistors by the master cyls, and make sure that the ECU is getting power and spark signal. I know what is available on base, and I think if you can get it running and store it at the shop you will have the best luck fixing it up. My 280Z got its tires mounted and balanced, and the suspension, headlight buckets and cowl panel glassbead blasted at Fort Belvior. My Z32 DD is going to have it's 120k service done there as well. BTW, most FI systems turn the ground on and off for the injectors and hold the 12 steady.

To quote the article: S-terminal: This is a heavier gauge terminal spade lug that is connected to the battery. This terminal is the “Sense†circuit and monitors battery charge. The S-terminal on the CS-130 regulator is larger than the other three terminals. Check L-Terminal: This terminal is connected to the “Low†side of the warning lamp, with the lamp’s “High†side being fed by the ignition circuit. Some regulators require a 35-ohm resistance inline with this circuit if no lamp is used otherwise alternator damage may ensue. Check And the connection to the bat lug on the back is a no brain-er. Thanks.

I have gone through 2 CS130 alts. I have the Bat terminal hooked up to the battery, a separate 8 gauge wire going from the S connection to the battery, and the L wire going to what is left of the Datsun original Alt blue wire in a 78Z. I have everything disconnected in the Blue wire L circuit but the light in the gauge, it measures .32 amps load at 13 volts, so I am looking at around 40 ohms resistance (within the 35-500 ohms listed in the Delco Remy repair manual) When I fire the car up, (or the 2nd alt to make sure I did not burn it out with the starter I hooked it up, put the car to run and spun it with a power drill) the idiot light stays on. I get no output. If I take my alt to Autozone after I try to get it to work, they tell me it is no good. I have two regulators on the way to rebuild both alts, but I am afraid I will just burn them out too. This is quite frustrating because I feel that I know my way around a soldering iron, so what gives? Thanks in advance

Sounds great! I'll take the 2nd one, the $35 + shipping one. Email at rob(dot)mink(at)gmail.com works for me. My zip is 22015. Please let me know how much to send you.

If I am not mistaken, the 4 wires are: Switched power on (on at run and start) Tach signal fuel pump EDIT: fuel pump RELAY brake light (on a 280z, the brake light turns on when the motor stalls) - WRONG! It is crank 12+ EDIT: Looked and I can confirm I was wrong. On my 78 the brake light turns on from the blue wire coming out of the ALT, goes to a relay under the passenger seat. Also lights up the charge light in the amp meter.

Looking for Chevy t5 shifter for an 80's firebird/camaro, used is fine. Thanks

Grumpy, first of all, your awesome to answer all our questions, thanks. I have a LT1 iron head motor that I installed in my 280Z using Megasquirt, a 80s camaro t5 and a 3.54 rear (I think). I am not sure what year my motor is, it had 96 written on it, but it does not have a CAS and it was wired for batch injection. The motor runs fine, but I know soon I am going to want more power. My question is, what can I do for at most $1500 to up the power. I don't mind doing the work myself (I don't know how to port and polish) and I already have 36 lb/hr injectors. Let me know if you need any other information, and thanks again.

Believe it or not, it is labeled as header wrap Only a small part caught fire and it went out quickly once I turned the motor off, I might let them 'cook' for a bit next time I fire the motor and see what happens, with a fire extinguisher of course. Strotter, I do like your idea, cleans up the bay a little and protects the wiring. Now I just need to see if I can fit all my wiring into a small L stock. (I have stock harness, 4 gauge wire from the alt to the batt, and a rather thick shielded 4 pair wire that I am using to get USB for the GPS unit under the driver's side fiberglass headlight bucket.) If the header wrap eventually cooperates I will use both, as the manifolds have paint runs and what not on them. Thank you both.

if you ever come to the DC aria, I can give you a new roof. Its been sitting in the basement for 3 years now, time it gets used by someone. EDIT: You can get the motor cheaper from a you pick it place. Heck, I ended up swapping with the guy and got the motor for about 4 hours of computer work. 96 LT1 (iron heads) T5 with Megasquirt 2 and Ford EDIS, self tuning with a NAW_7S Wideband

I assume this is a Datsun L series motor. The 1 and 6 studs do commonly break, I have even heard of people drilling them out to a bigger stud size and helicoling the hole. I don't think your fix will cause a problem. It is more likely to break due to the uneven stresses, but you did not mention any coolant leaking out so you did not penatrate into a water passage way or anything of the like. Heck, have a friend that is driving his 280z without a number 6 stud, has been doing that for 2.5 years, not that I would reccomed that though. In short, from what you explained, you should be fine. I tend to use an easyout (the bigger screw type, not the reverse drill bit type.) instead of drilling out the hole to try and save the origional tap.