Pop N Wood

The early Z's are the same way. I think it is mainly because they never made it out of Californa in the first place. If you can sell all you can import in California, why ship them anywhere else?

Should know better than to get back into this again. Look back through some of my old posts where I have either worn everybody down or convinced them. Don't know which. But I would like to point out a few things in your statements. First off, I misspoke. Should have said the first law of thermodynamics. As for the statement Power is energy per unit time. Energy can neither be created nor destroyed. Hence power is conserved. Work is a form of energy. Power, work, energy, heat. They are all related. The idea the first law of thermodynamics has nothing to do with power, when power can be thought of in terms of energy per unit time, is conceptually wrong. Energy is conserved, hence power is conserved. Mechanical work or thermal energy, it is all the same, just "altered in form" Power is energy per unit time. Think light bulbs. No work, yet they have a power rating. How is that consistent with your definition? Automotive engine dynos are made to be inexpensive. The cheapest and easiest way for them to determine power is by measuring torque and doing the math. Not all dynos work that way. Electrical generating plants measure the voltage and current out of a generator. This gives them power. They can then “do the math†to get torque. Does that mean with electrical plants power is real and torque is not? Maybe different laws of physics apply to electrical systems than mechanical? I am finally starting to realize that this is the source of the "HP is mathmatical" statement. There are other forms of dynos out there. Auto dynos are built to take advantage of the mathmatical relationship between power and torque. There is nothing about the underlying physics that make them that way, so don't read too much into them. Grumpy is the man. Grumpy is usually right. Unfortunately I disagree with him (and seemingly half the internet) on this one. Shall we get into what moves a car, torque or power?

I run two sets of wheels and tires that are the same as the ones you listed. My street tires are stock 14 steel wheels with I think 195 70's while my autocross tires are 225 50's on 15" Riken wheels. I have never noticed anything adverse in the ride with the autocross tires, other than feeling more bumps from the lower profile tires. Not sure what you mean by "tracks the road".

First off, excellent post. Always learn a lot from such posts. Good dissection on how an engine is destroyed. BUT the statement is misleading to the point of being untrue. People constantly quote that and it is simply a wrong way to look at the problem. This has been discussed many times. If anything power is the only "real" thing and torque is a mathematical contrivance. The second law of thermodynamics governs HP, it can neither be "created or destroyed". Torque is a number that varies as it goes through gearing. It is calculated by dividing power by the shaft RPM. Torque can be increased or decreased at will. Just use different gears. But the power in and out of a gear set (less losses) is constant.

And what if Bubba, your cell mate, looks at you and thinks the same thing? Just a joke. Would never happen to any of us.

A buddy of mine had a stock one of those. Not one of Porsche's better efforts. A typical Beetle build up was faster. But adding a V8 could be death defying. Wonder how the engine cooling is worked out.

I always think back to the drag racing murder trials in San Diego a year or so ago. Prosecutors used the driver's internet posts against them. Fun to tell but a good way to incriminate yourself. This is a public forum.

Not sure how you box frame rails when they are already "boxed". Maybe Pete's subframe connectors?

That was the exact same problem I had. On my 1971 Califonia model there is a plastic fume tank in the right rear C pillar that has 3 or 4 rubber hoses going to it. Different years have different set ups, and the Califonia editions are different from the non-Califonia models. The Nissan dealer had the hoses, and they were $150 more than 15 years ago. Don't try and use heater hose as it won't hold up to the gas. Installation is not so bad once you get the tank and interior body panels off. (That's a joke son. Getting the tank out can be a beotch.) I have read of people capping the vent lines at the tank. I don't know why they had to vent the tank at so many different points. Seems like a single vent at the fill spout would be enough. This is an absolute must do fix though. The car was miserable before I replaced the hoses.

Your two vechicles are worth less than a 98 Toyota 2WD extra cab with frame damage? Wanna trade?

Guess if it were my car I would replace all the obviously bent parts then look into having a frame shop do a check on the chassis. You want to start with a nice, straight chassis before you weld in the rear quarter panel. Probably 95% of the guys wouldn't do it this way, but that's the way I would do it.

Are you sure an alignment shop didn't tweak the arms to correct for a geometry deficency somewhere else?

Those pipes are probably worth every penny, but I am looking to do an entire engine swap for that kind of money.

Arizona Z car suspension. All 4 corners. Big bucks. How fast can you afford to go? Then sell me the stuff you take off. Quiaffe. R180 at that (saves weight). Aluminum driveshaft. Gut interior, aluminum dash with mininum number of gages, full cage, and of course the camber plates will come with the Arizona Z car suspension. 15" wheels. No bling. Get with JohnC and get alignment specs for the track. Guess they aren't the same as street. Aluminum radiator, lexan windows, carbon fiber hood-hatch-door skins, anywhere you can get it. No heater, AC, power steering or even radio. Single racing seat. Small battery. 8 gallon fuel cell, maybe smaller. Gotta shed weight. Under 2000# would be a good goal.

Look again. It is an M5.

I remember the clip. Really insane driving. Definitely some eastern block country. BTW the search function sucks more often than not.

Have the stock radiator recored with a 3 row core. Will give you all the cooling you will ever need. The only real disadvantage is weight.

It would just make sense that sealing the rear would help with fumes, because driving with the rear hatch open definitely causes it. But in all the posts I have read I don't remember anyone claiming to have cured exhaust fumes that way. I have read claims that extending the exhaust tip out and cutting it at an angle cured the problem. Now gas fumes are another issue. The early California Z's have 3 or 4 rubber vent hoses snaking all over the back of the car. Those were bad on my Z when I first got it. Car stunk to high heaven every time I took a hard turn. I walked into a Nissan dealership with the hoses in my hand, the guy looked at me and without saying a word dropped the hoses in front of me and said "$150". guess it is a pretty common problem.

If someone manages to fit cats under a first gen Z I would like to see pics. 2.5" in/out cats are probably 3 or 4 inches at the thickest point. The rear O2 sensor are usually not used to make the engine run. They just throw a code. So if the code is edited you should be good to go. You absolutely want to have the before cat O2's or your car will never go into the closed loop mode.

The Onstar has to have some type of antenna. If you can't pull a separate fuse, then is it possible to short out the antenna? Maybe hook a plug wire to the antenna output port? Guess if the black box is part of the ECU the only way to disable would be by reprogramming it. Hmmm. Sounds like a new ebay buisness opportunity. Get a copy of LS1 edit and delete the onstar-black box code. Probably get $200 a pop.

http://www.alteredz.com Take the switch apart, clean the contacts, then do Pete's relay upgrade above.

My 240 doesn't stink, windows or not. fl327 always claimed 240's are more prone to this than 280's. He has owned both so must be something to it. There was an old thread about belly pans and diffusers that went over and over on this. One of the take aways is to extend the exhaust tip out and down. Otherwise the exhaust gets pulled up behind the hatch and comes along the rear quarter windows and in the car. In all the posts I have read, I have never heard of anyone fixing this problem through sealing up holes. Must be more to it.

Sounds real shaky to me. Not sure what he could tell from a copy of a money order. Not sure what the angle is there. I personally would never enter into a bargain like that. Then again, I would never buy a car without seeing it first. Not for any reason (unless it was the pope's car or something). Either book a plane trip or try to find a HybridZ member in NY who will take a look at it for you.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100060 Posts in the non-tech forum no longer count toward you total post count. Go figure.