Pop N Wood

Actually I already own the 240sx brake kit. What I was talking about was Ross's $695 4340 axels http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=62) mated to his $395 4340 companion flanges http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=63 Then I just need the 280 ZXT shafts, bearings and seals to get it all to work with my R200. JY 280 stubs and the stock 240 U joints don't sound so bad for now. Think I would rather get an LSD before worrying about axels and halfshafts.

At 35 years old and counting, my 240 stubs are coming out to get inspected anyway. Since I will be replacing the bearings in the process, I might as well upgrade AND do the 240sx disc brake conversion all at the same time. That way the disks will at least keep the wheel and broken stub axel in the same lane as my car. Some things just aren't worth risking. My only real question is to use JY 280 stubs and flanges or go with Ross's 4340 axels. Anyone know if the 280 inner flange is compatible with the 240 half shafts? Tempted to do the CV conversion at the same time, but that would put me well over $1000 in parts alone. Also JohnC has often said that big tires and hard corners can break the stubs, so don't know that this is an issue for the V8 guys only. I have seen pics of broken stub axels posted from cars with stock engines.

For the connector, I would scour a JY for a 2 wire plug in connector then solder/shrink wrap it in place. As for the gauge, how do you know the gauge is bad and not the wiring between the sender and the gauge? You have two options, either check the wiring, check the gauge or both. To check the wiring, disconnect the sender wires at both ends (the gauge and the sender). Next twist the wires together at one end. Now take your ohm meter and check 1) the resistance across the wires and 2) the resistance between one wire and a good ground point (clean metal). If there is a large (> maybe 20 ohms) between the wires, a wire is broken. If the resistance to ground is low(say less than 20 kiloohms) there is a short to ground. Either problem could kill the gauge. To check your gauge, hook it up directly to the sender with some jumper wires and hook up a battery to the power and ground. Now manually move the sender and see if the gauge responds. I would also do a check of the sender to make sure it is not shorted out to ground. I have found that most electrical problems are due to bad connectors or wires shorted out to ground. Occasionally a component fails, but probably 95% of the time it is a connector.

That didn't occur to me until you mentioned it. At first I was hoping she was genuinely sorry. But now I wonder if she was looking at what happened to her partner in crime John Kerry and all that anti-war rehtoric causing the silent masses to stand up and be counted. One has to wonder if she is once again prostituting herself and looking no farther than book sales.

John, what is your opinion about running camber plates on a 95% street driven vehicle? A somewhat subjective question I know. But you mentioned the different alignments you run on race only vs. street only vehicles. If I were running the street alignment, and a relatively soft street suspension, would I even need the adjustability of camber plates? Thanks.

The truely amazing thing about that article is not the carb intake (or how easy it is to do), but the fact that they got over 500 HP on a crate engine with nothing more than a cam and valve spring upgrade. And it is a GM cam kit too! Really makes me rethink the whole LT1-is-cheaper idea.

I once heard a rumor our colonial forefathers did it just to piss you guys off. I am not sure if that is true, but it is honestly what I was once told in grade school.

It's only a car, and it is now your car at that. Do what you want with it. "Cherry" M3's may go for $15K, but the fact you only paid $400 tells me it is far from cherry. Why pay big buck BMW prices for engine parts when you can make it go faster with less money? Sort of the HybridZ motto, isn't it? If you want to yuppify it you have to worry about little details like missing trim pieces. I say make it go fast and let the yuppies be damned.

I don't know that Matt's substantial door bars aren't going to do what's needed. I for one have to wonder if "subframe" connectors in this application won't be adding more weight than performance.

The 15/16 MC worked fine on my 1970. The only problem is the brake pedal didn't catch until it was a half inch from the floor. It just moved without any resistance until it hit that point. I didn't measure anything. I just lenghtened the rod until the brake pedal was catching at a good height for heel and toe driving. BTW, I upgraded to stainless steel brake lines at the same time. So once the brake pedal hits, I only get another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of movment. With SS lines the brake pedal is like stepping on a brick.

Her only real mistake was coming back to the US. Should have stayed in Nam and been Uncle Ho's numba one ho.

Would like to hear the answer to that question myself. BUT the 15/16 MC is the one Arizonia Z car recommends for their 4 wheel disk brake kit. Maybe the Toyo calipers are larger and maybe that would make the 15/16 MC marginal, but it is hard for me to believe it would be totally inadequate. Who else is running the Toyo 4x4 brakes and what size MC is working for you?

This thread is so aggrevating.

The bleeder valves should be on the top of the calipers. Even with air in the lines the pedal should not go to the floor. Maybe the plunger rod is not getting positioned correctly? I would think too long could be as bad as too short. There is also a "reaction disk" that needs to be in the brake booster. Not sure if that is an issue with the 71 booster or later ones. I remember threads with JMortenson posting in them about reaction disks falling out and the brakes not working. Try putting some clear tubing over the ends of the bleeder valves and put the other end in a jar of used brake fluid. Open the bleeders one at a time, but tighten them down to where they are just shy of finger tight. Then pump the brakes. You should see fluid coming out. When the clear tube is full of brake fluid, tighten the bleeder before removing the tube. Might have to work your way around all four wheels a couple of times to get all the air out. Hope I am not telling you anything you don't already know. BTW, if you have not already done so you really should upgrade the 71 MC to a larger 15/16 MC off a ZX. Make sure you swap the brake lines going to the MC so that the front brakes are being fed off the end of the MC with the larger reservior. The ZX and 71 MC's are reversed front to back. You have the same year Z I do, AND I have the exact same brake set up in boxes waiting to be installed. I hope to hear back what a great set up these brakes are. I have been using the ZX MC with the stock brakes for many years now. Good luck and double the number of beers.

That is pretty good, but I think this thread one ups yours: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100120

What about lawn sprinklers?

That would only be true if the CG was pushed below the centerline of the rear axles. Push on the corner of an object and it will try to spin about the CG. The farther the corner is from the CG, the greater the torque and the more the object will try to spin. Push the object directly toward's it's CG and it will move, but not spin (rotate). So if the car squats so much the CG drops in line with the rear axles, no rotation, no lift, just straight line acceleration. Longer wheel base cars have an advantage in that the CG is farther in front of the rear wheels. This torque counteracts the rotation torque applied by the rear wheels.

Doubtful a stuck intake valve will make a carb overflow.

I've heard it called a chin pan. MSA use to sell them. That is where I bought mine some years ago.

I have both a standard, stock type retractable 3 point harness and a Simpson 5 point harness in my car. My 1970 had the non-retractable type belts originally. I would NOT recommend trying to use those on the street. The latch mechanism falls down between the seat and the trans tunnel (and is a beotch to get a hold of). The non-retractable part is as restrictive as the Simpson 5 point. Try to do like others suggested and get retractable set up out of another vehicle and adapt it to your car. I managed to get the belts out of an old Mazda 808 and mounted the retracter mechanizm on the stock 1970 belt mounting point above the rear quarter window. The big plus is the Mazda had the latching mechanism mounted on a metal post to hold it up at seat level. If you have a roll bar perhaps you can weld a lug of some type to allow mounting the retractor up high. Just a thought

I can honestly say I have never watched that homo erotic commerical. Everytime it comes on I immediately change the channel or mute that pig.

Man don't start out so complicated. Chances are your float is stuck or you have some dirt on the needle valve. The fuel is coming out of the overflow tube because the needle valve is not shutting it off. Try a little "mechanical agitation" to knock the dirt loose. Worse case pull the top of the carb, clean out the bowl and inspect the needle valve/float assembly for damage. Make sure everything moves without restriction. Fuel pressure regulator....sheesh.

Congratulations! 1 of 10,000! The odds are significantly higher than being victimized by a handgun, yet no one is screaming to outlaw ebay. BTW, there is a huge difference between buying $3 worth of children's clothes and an engine costing multiple thousands of dollars. The return freight makes a money back guarantee meaningless. My wife has had her ebay account stolen in the past by people trying to sell car parts. Be careful.

Holy Jesus that was funny.