Pop N Wood

Ebay finally canceled it. Just bid the price up high enough to catch the attention of ebay and another prostitution scheme is shut down.

Could always build a tank with Tim's bong built in or attached to the side. Has the disadvantage of two fuel pumps, but it should be absolutely bulletproof at preventing sucking air. No amount of baffles or trap doors can say that.

Hope his SUV is not based on a Ford F150. Read the accompaning article Big and Bad http://www.gladwell.com/2004/2004_01_12_a_suv.html If he was really worried about safety he would be driving a minivan. But I guess not many people are willing to go THAT far for safety.

Not a good rule to go by. http://www.bridger.us/2002/12/16/CrashTestingMINICooperVsFordF150 Often times smaller is safer.

What's with all the Z aftermarket guys going MIA? Threads about Ross being incommunicado, then JSK and now PDK. Guess we had all better start spending more money to keep them interested.

In a recent post Ross said his initial batch of stub axles and CV shafts are selling out quick. Good luck getting any more info than that. He has been very difficult to get ahold of lately. I would love to hear from someone who has actually installed Ross's upgraded stuff.

Do a search on Tim240Z's posting about surge tanks. Tim made a very simple one that goes in the engine compartment. A regular carb type fuel pump goes in the tank to feed the surge tank, then the FI pump sucks off the surge tank to feed the engine. Trap doors in a fiberglass tank is getting complicated IMO. Not sure why you would want to use fiberglass when there are so many metal tank options available. I have never done fiberglass work, so I would worry about stress cracks.

Don't spend $1500 on a 305. That kind of money will buy you a complete LT1 with trans from a mid 90's F body. Iron head caprice motors will be even cheaper. Those will "bolt in" with the JTR kit and get you a better FI with aluminum heads. Plus you will have an upgrade path available for 400+ HP

Hadn't looked at your link, but I guess it answers the question with measured data. His dyno charts were a little confusing to me, but if I am reading them right doing nothing but turning on the WI cost him 15 HP. Anyone else read it that way? But if he advances the timing (retunes), he gets most of that back with a drop in fuel consumption. He also talked about the WI cooling the intake, but concluded the change was probably too small to measure with his set up.

The value of the car doesn't seem to affect the insurance rates as much as the class of vehicle. My 6 year old pick up (value maybe $9K?) cost more to insure than a new minivan ($26K). Also on a car as old as a Z chances are you will not get "full coverage" anyway. So for collison only the cost of your car is not a factor. I think an early Z would make a great first car. They are fun to drive, easy to work on and parts are still available. But 20+ year old cars need work to keep running. No way around that. Might want to think about the reliability issue before you buy one. A Z would be an excellent car to learn auto mechanics on, but keep in mind there could be some inconvienent down time and expense. Insurance discounts for air bags, antilock brakes etc are more a sales gimmick than a real money saver. Call around to a bunch of insurance companies and go with whoever gives you the best rates. It has been my experience that the cut rate places don't care about such things. Also not to start a flame war but I have a very low opinion of air bags. Those things were mandated for cars simply to save the lives of people too ignorant to wear seat belts. Modern cars are better designed in terms of crumple zones, bumpers, door guards etc. But if it were up to me I would never buy a car with air bags of any type.

I know a higher compression ratio makes it much harder to crank an engine over. Thus high torque starters with hipo engines. combine that idea with a buddy who raised the compression in his Harley to to point where he could hardly kick it over and I am reasonable certain that high CR make them harder to turn. If you believe that, then it would just make sense that high compression combined with a larger displacement would be even worse. The larger displacement is speculation on my part.

The amount of cooling in the intake from the small amount of water will be minor compared to the cooling of the burn inside the combustion chamber. Still think you will lose power by adding WI and nothing else.

You guys have obviously never kick started a old Harley. Or ridden an old dirt bike with a compression brake. Compression ratio. The engine is still pumping and compressing air. It is just getting the work from dragging the rear wheels instead of exploding gas. Higher compression, bigger displacement means more compression loss.

Still applicable to NA motors if it allows higher compression.

Not to sound like your mom, but evading the police is a felony under the right circumstances. A felony conviction will cause you to forever lose your right to vote or own a gun. Pretty high price to pay for attempting to avoid a simple traffic ticket.

This is what Vizard stated in no uncertain terms. Building an engine that needs WI to run without detonation will produce less HP than running the same engine on the proper octane gasoline. Read MikeJTR's posting. He got almost the same HP using 80 octane as the base engine using 87 octane once he retuned I stand by what I repeated from Vizard.

There was an excellent thread on home made cabinets on this site some months ago. Gave detailed info on how to build your own cabinet. Had some gotchas I would not have thought of.

Mike's advice is good, but my bet is it will never get that far. The person will undoubtably ask to send a check larger than the purchase price and ask you to send the excess back. Whatever you do don't go along with that old scam. Sending your address and phone number is no risk, but I would just tell them no foreign buyers and be done with them.

He is the only guy I have ever heard of who put a 4.3 in a Z. Might not be much of a market for them.

No no no no no! Water injection does not increase HP. It does allow more boost-timing-compression without detonation. It is the added boost-timing-compression that adds power. WW2 fighters had a "war emergency power" rating. They also had variable boost and nitrous. Break the lock wire on the throttles, jam it to WEP, boost goes up, water injection comes on and in many cases so did the nitrous. After 10 minutes the engine needed a complete overhaul. If your car runs fine the way it is, water injection will probably decrease your HP. It is only when you change the boost-timimg-compression that WI helps.

Maybe he wants to give more of someone elses money to the people in this country?

Damn. Do you ever finish any thing you start?

240 ft-lbs. 280's can go to 280 ft-lbs. Hence the names.

I changed the gear lube in my stock Tacoma truck at 50 thousand miles, and first and second gear started getting hard to shift into. Especially when cold. Finally swapped to Mobil 1 synthetic. Let's see what happens next time it gets cold.

It was an LS7 crate motor. Thought they said so in the show. Would be nice to have money. Every hot rodder's dream to have GM come up and offer to tune a special built engine for your next creation. Jay Leno is God!