Pop N Wood

Couldn't have said it better myself. If it doesn't leak down. At least that is what the guy at Arizona Z car told me when I was considering his brakes. Just what I have done for the last 30 years. But I still like a functional hand brake.

Damn, Pete. You've been a one man wrecking ball these days. Not really sure why it is wrong for people to believe they should get something out of a system they have paid into all their lives. Niave maybe, but that is what the feds claim the system is suppose to do. I am feeding enough money into retirement accounts that I shouldn't need SS. But that wont mean I'll be pissed and looking for retribution when they screw me out of it. And I know I will never get out of it what I am putting in.

Mechanical or electric fuel pump, and is it upstream or downstream of the filter? Maybe some debris in the fuel line somewhere causing the fuel pump to draw the vacuum?

How about backing a dead car up a few feet in the driveway and realizing you have just run out of residual vacuum on the power brakes, so you grab for the parking brake to keep from hitting the wife's car behind you? Or as an aid for a novice driver trying to work the clutch on a hill? Also pretty handy when working on the car. I have also owned cars whos engines were so loose the car would work their way backwards down a hill one cylinder at a time if parked in gear without the e brake on. Not to mention my kids get in my truck from time to time. Nice to know the brake is on in case they kick it out of gear. I have been in a car that had a complete loss of brakes (several actually) and depending on speed the parking brake can and did stop the vehicle. Sure beat taking it into a parked car. Not as much of a worry now that I can afford to maintain my vehicles, but it does happen. Plus many states require saftey inspections either annually or before a car can change hands. Lack of a parking brake would make my car unsellable as a street vehicle. What I can't see a use for is line locks. Maybe as a theft deterrent, but not much else.

I have the 15/16 ZX MC on my 71. I added it with the idea of upgrading to AZ Z brakes, but never managed to cough up the $$ for the actual brakes. It is a bolt in install on the 71 booster. You will need to adjust the length of the rod going into the back of the MC (This will be obvious since in my case the brakes didn't even begin to catch until the pedal was a inch off the floor). The ZX MC also has the front and rear reservoirs swapped compared to the original 71 layout. The brake lines can be rerouted. Just make sure the front brakes connect to the end of the MC with the larger reservoir. The AZ Z car web site use to have instuctions on line many years ago. The larger MC works fine with the stock brakes. I have Toyota 4x4 calipers with vented rotors and 240sx rear brake set up that will go in this spring. The MC should be fine for that. I am still too cheap for the excellent AZ Z car brakes, and I really like the idea of retaining an emergency brake. I have actually used one in a past emergency.

From http://www.bobblick.com/techref/projects/o2sensor/o2sensor.html Don't confuse impedance with resistance. The device produces voltage but unless you measure it with a high impedance digital multimeter, the current draw will cause a voltage drop inside the device giving a false voltage reading. Still doesn't answer how to fool the computer. This is an excellent article, although it contains so much information it tends to confuse the issue http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQA/is_2_80/ai_71847178 Guess some GM cars actually cycle the air fuel mixture and check for time delays in the response from the before and after cat sensors. Perhap this article which shows you how to build your own O2 simulator is of more interest. http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schematics/sensor-based/oxygensimulator.html This guy claims his $5 solution fixed his eclipse. Looks like you could keep the heater part (black wires) hooked up to the original sensor, but then use the capacitor and 1 megaohm resistor on the sensor part. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html A guy in this thread says you can just weld an extension onto the rear O2 sensor bung and the cooler air will make the computer think the sensor is downstream of a functional cat http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread/t-76662.html

Damn. The originals weren't exactly cheap to begin with. I have no idea WTF I would do with a remote control for my dash gauges. I do like the gauges though. Having the whole gauge turn color when you hit a shift point or lose oil pressure would be pretty useful. mos def bling bling

Put a couple of sharp turns in the course and let's revisit that statement.

The original JTR manual had a write up on how to do it. Rather trivial to do. You need the diff flanges with the R200, but when I did it I don't remember replacing the half shafts. The R200 half shafts are suppose to be slightly shorter (in theory anyway), but i think there has been some controversy if that is really true. Pete Paraska talked about driveline angles and his version of Ron Tyler's diff mount. Check http://www.alteredz.com The search function flat sucks for finding old threads. The only way I have been able to locate some threads is to sift through all the old posts of someone who I remember posted in the thread. If you go to a member's profile page, there is a "find all posts by ____". Tedious but at least the list will be complete.

Staples and Office Depot sell label sheets with adhesive backing that run through a printer. Not sure how durable that would be. Don't know if it could then be laminated or painted with a clear coat to protect it. Try talking to someone at a local Kinko's and see if they have a printing process that might work. Maybe some type of mylar or plastic sheeting used for ads placed on telephone poles? Nissan did it, so someone should be capable of reproducing it.

The air hammer method has been well established by many members here. It more vibrates the axles out than "hammers" them. It actually seems less brutal to me than a slide hammer. Vibration is extremely helpful in breaking pressed fittings like ball joints and even steering wheels loose. Absolute worst case is you unbolt the whole strut assembly/control arm and take it to a machine shop to have the axles pressed out. BFH works but like said above can damage threads.

You don't read the papers much. We have been doing "maneuvers" in Korea for the last 60 years. I even received a "medal" of sorts for participating in them 20 some years ago now. The week before our ship pulled into Pusan harbor they shot up a team of North Korea divers they caught trying to infiltrate the harbor. Had to post armed Marines around the ship checking the water for bubbles. Same old same old.

Take a digital photo and print out a new sticker.

A bucket of water is an invaluable thing to have handy when welding. Less messy than an extinquisher and saves the extinguisher for the big stuff. When I was in the Navy they had very strict requirements about setting fire watches when welding. "The other side of the wall" was often not visible.

I assume you checked the ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, TC rod bolts, TC rod bushings and steering rack bushings. Might try retorqueing all the front end bolts (including those on the cross member). Wheel bearings could also be a possiblity. My Z had a similar problem when I first got it. Couldn't figure it out for the longest time. Turns out the strut isolator nut was loose and the strut shaft was wobbling around in the top of the isolator. Try retorqueing all the bolts at the top of the strut mounts. Guess along the same lines the strut gland nut could be a culprit too.

I'll bet your neighbors are loving you this morning.

Well I may be displaying my own ignorance, but I know to test them you get them hot, hook up a digital multi meter and look for a half volt output. Tells me they are more like a thermocouple than a variable resistor. I thought the only power that went to them was a heater? Hopefully someone who has actually done it will chime in. But I would venture to guess the computer will compare the after cat sensors with the before cat ones (or else how could it tell if the catalytic converter was doing anything to the exhaust?). So if the after cat sensors don't vary with the before cat, I don't know if that will be enough to fool the computer.

The nice thing about that is the woman/teen age girl you buy it from probably took really good care of it. LOL

Oxygen sensors actually output a voltage. They don't vary in resistance, so I couldn't imagine a simple resistor working. But I am only speculating.....

You kind of need to ask yourself what you want to accomplish. If you aren't worried about class rules and only want to stiffen the chassis, then why not form some sheetmetal and simply strengthen the unibody in the area of the roof arch? Might be more work than a simple cage, but it could be done in such a way that you retain all the stock body panels. Also won't scare your passengers or create undue interest from the local cops. I would imagine the idea will be met with contempt from the majority of the people on board here, but like I said you need to ask what you want to accomplish.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99516 Did you just buy the one listed above off ebay???

Goto Walmart and get a $2 siphon bulb and tube. No power motors unless it is specifically set up for it. I wouldn't use the stock fuel pump if it is meant for fuel injection. Don't those things kick out something like 35 to 45 PSI?

Roger that. I got the Webers for the exact same reason and because they were smog legal. The kit was the same price as properly rebuilt SU's. If I had it to do over again I would definitely get the SU's. I have heard bad things about the 4 bbl set up on a Z. Will be interesting to see how things work out for you. But I can't argue with the price aspect.