Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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And the REALLY good thing is UT will not have to play Oklahoma any more.
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I'll be gald when this election is over.
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Damn. What a shame. Seemed like quite the character.
http://www.charlotte.com/mld/charlotte/entertainment/gossip/9533189.htm?1c
But something told me it was only a matter of time before standing on the seat of a moving motorcycle caught up with him.
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Man. Hearing all of this makes me realize what a great deal I got on my welder. Close out at Sams club, 145 amp DC Century welder normally $750 for only $400. Throw in another $100 or so for the tank and $60 for a harbor freight auto darkening helmet. Never had a problem with it. Welds sheet metal like no tomorrow.
If you are even asking MIG or TIG, then the answer is MIG. A good TIG machine will start somewhere in the $1500 range. Probably 95% of the guys start with a MIG and graduate to a TIG when their reach starts to exceed their grasp. MIG's work great on stainless. Just get the Argon-CO2 mix that most welding places sell.
Have to take exception with the TIG being hard to use. I found it harder to adapt to a MIG. Probably comes from welding exclusively with a torch for so many years. The nice thing about a TIG/torch is you can pull the rod out of the puddle. I also find it easier to weld a thin piece to a thick piece with a torch/TIG since you can better direct the heat toward the thick piece without all the filler rod going there also.
But if you can only afford one welder, get a torch. Much more versatile than either the MIG or TIG, can weld mild steel, aluminum and chrome moly. You have more trouble with heat warping than a MIG, but there are ways around that. Will work great on your struts. Can’t really use it on stainless except to braze it (with the proper flux). A torch doesn’t require 220 volt and can also be used to heat/temper metal. Plasma cutters are great, but they are expensive, don’t like cutting painted material and you really need different sized machines for different thickness of metal. A cutting torch will pretty much go through any ferrous material whether it is clean or not.
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The game will undoubtedly be canceled.
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The poor realtor was probably wondering why the ad was getting millions of hits....
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Dang. And with Miami-FSU this weekend.....
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Isn't the OP's post taken from http://www.catiiimusicpublishing.com/?
C'mon dude' date=' if you have opinions, make 'em your own.[/quote']
Doh.
Harsh.
There is something I don't understand. Why does everyone keep talking about Kerry as though he is against the Iraq war? Kerry himself said he would have supported the Iraq invasion even if he had been told before hand there were no WMD's. Bob Kerry was on Good Morning America just this morning reiterating John Kerry's support of the invasion of Iraq. To my knowledge, Kerry has gone on the record saying the thing he would have done different is to "involve our allies". (Or as George W puts it, seek permission.)
So why are all the anti war people supporting Kerry? How would things have been different with him in place?
Maybe we need to revisit Mike Kelly's thread on the Fence Sitter and our two party system.
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Project_BBZ: To find the total angle' date=' you do a root-sum-sqaure (RSS) of the vertical and horizontal angles:
Total angle = square root of ( vertical_angle_squared + horizontal_angle_squared )
or (for instance, in MS Excel parlance):
Total angle= sqrt( vertical_angle^2 + horizontal_angle^2 )
[/quote']
To be technically precise, you are dealing with angles and not distances. The spherical trig identity is
Cos(Total Angle) = Cos(Vert Angle) * Cos(Hor Angle)
Although admittedly with such small angles the difference between the two equations is negligible.
And to echo what jbc3 said, Ron Tyler's website strongly recommends an aluminum driveshaft to minimize vibration
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Guess I could learn a few things about tact from Micheal.
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I have bid on motors priced like that.
Trust me. It won't sell for anywhere near $1300
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Do a search on member name MikeJTR. I assume this in the prophet himself (he wrote the "bible" didn't he?). He has been suggesting his new products for some time now.
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Guess I should be more careful. Didn't mean to offend. But you seemed to be looking for a little more info than just the 4 link setup.
Quite a few people have done what you want to do. Look back through some old posts and you will find plenty of info. I do suggest you do a search on stub axles to help you with your rear end question.
You might also find quite a number of posts about the whole Z vs. Vette vs. heavy-subframe-solid-rear-axle topic. Some other things you might want to research include unibody vs. subframe vehicles, the handling and streetablity of a well built Z suspension, IRS vs. a solid rear axles, building for HP vs torque (such a low HP BBC with that many cubes will have tremendous torque, especially with narrow tires), the advantages and disadvantages of a big block vs. small block conversion, etc. etc.
But it is your car. To each his own. Just offering one man's opinion to help you get what it is you want.
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If you have a "fix" for health care I am all ears....
The #1 problem is getting everyone to agree what is broken.
I make good money and have had employer sponsored health care for years. Yet every year my costs go up (a lot) while the coverage has gone down (a lot). Try buying basic antibiotics for a child's ear infection.
I don't see how a government run health plan will improve that.
The only political fixes I hear talked about simply shift the cost to someone else. Guess who is going to be the end recipient of that round robin?
When it comes to health care, I think the Regan quote applies. Government is not the solution. It is the problem.
And yes, if you really want to influence the system, join some type of political group. Like the NRA. Voting is important, but sometimes people have a very naive belief in it.
BTW. Hillary's health care proposals scared the shit out of me. Thank God she never got anywhere with that.
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Not to be an elitist, but sounds to me like you want a 60-70's Chevelle or Nova, not a Z. Would be a much easier starting point than a 280. For example, you are going to have a hard time "boxing" the frame rails on a Z.
I don't know the answer to your question about the 4 link.
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Yeah. Thanks for serving.
If it were feasible for me I would come down and give you a hand. Just a bit too far from Baltimore.
Also better Gitmo than Iraq or Afganistan.
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You would also need to worry about making a seam that could trap moisture causing rust. Riveted seams will move more than a welded one. Thus I would also worry about any type of seam sealing compound losing it's seal.
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I have said it before in other threads. Quoting something from a Hollywood movie doesn't do much to enhance your credibility. I will take that statement one step further and say anyone who quotes or claims to have actually learned anything from a Michael Moore film probably isn't worth talking to. Try reading a newspaper on a daily basis and you will see that nothing he presents is new information.
Even Osama's family has publicly taken exception to the incorrect information in that moronic film.
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5538722/
It is amazing how lazy people can be. Don't think it is biased propaganda? Ask people who know how to recognize it when they see it
Maybe if we ignore our young Australian friend he will just go away.
But i spent a year in America as an exchange student and i saw my high school budget slashed by 50% to fund the war.I cry BS. Cite a reference. A country as small as Australia would probably have to make some pretty serious cuts to afford a war like Iraq. But as a percentage of our GNP the Iraq situation is really not that stressing (monetarily anyway) to the US. And to think that the expense is being borne by Lincoln Southwest high school is patently absurd. (Go Huskers!)
and still vote for the man who illegitemately won the last ellectionWasn't that Michael Moore's acceptance speech at the academy awards? You seem to be quite a fan of him. I suggest you broaden your sources of information. The US constitution might be a good place to start. Maybe then you would realize that was the only possible legal outcome of that election.
After that you might try reading this entire thread. Perhaps then you will see why people are taken back by your statements.
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Well Im planing on doing ALL the rubber bushings this winter, as well as full suspension all around.. cause evrything is fubar in that department.. I really shouldn't be driving that fast anyway.. .. it's just weird that this problem would be SO pronounced after changing the rear tires, where as before it was only a slight issue.. And it happens wherever I drive, no matter what condition the road surface is.. I took her up to 110 mph tonite on a flat 'back road' and man it was scarry! (though it might get better over 100 or something ..nope) Like I said, I'll get the alignment checked out.. and probly try running 4 tires the same size.. I'm thinking its mostly alignment related now.. I did some HARD cornering tonite at 70+ mph and the car reacted amazinly through the twisties at that speed.. but as soon as the straightaway comes up.. hang on for dear life! I'll let you guys know what happens..
Larger rear tires will also make your speedometer read lower than actual.
Maybe you were just going faster than you have before?
I know the front end lift due to the Z's poor aerodynamics degrades really quickly past some speed.
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Man. You guys aren't even trying.
It is a sticky at the top of this forum
http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=25481
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Man. I drank enough of that swill when I lived in Bremerton WA. But, like the bear, I kept going back for more.
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5756809/
Party Animal!
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We then have 1050lbf of compression on the strut tower bar.
And the above line is also an error. You may have 1050 lbf acting on the top of the strut tower' date=' but how much of that is being absorbed by the other structural elements of the chassis? Not fair to say the whole thing is being supported only by the strut bar.
The rear strut towers distort from the vertical loads imposed so we would have to calculate the amount and direction of distortion to determine the loads placed on the strut tower bars
Ditto?
As for the suspension bottoming out, at that point haven't you have pretty much lost it anyway? With a soft suspension what would be the advantage of a stiffer chassis? For potholes seems like you would want even more give since no one here is a street racer anyway.
Paint cracking in the C pillars may be helped with a strut bar, but I can tell you first hand it doesn't cure it. I have a straight bar between the rear struts towers on my 1970 (a nice MSA one that didn't clear my L6) and I still get chassis creaks going down driveways.
One other thing to consider. Jersey's now infamous girlie (er, sissy) bar is solidly welded to the strut mounts. My MSA bar has heim joints. Is the purpose of the strut bar to keep the struts parallel, or to stop all movement altogether? Wouldn't that have an affect here?
I thought it was obvious I meant all other things being equal
This was exactly the point I was trying to make. One of JohnC's favorite answers to "this is better". But to extrapolate my conduit example, at some point if you make a curved bar heavy enough, it will be stronger than a straight bar made out of lesser material. Or else how could motorcycles function with curved downtubes?
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Why would you want to do such a dishonest thing?
.. it's just weird that this problem would be SO pronounced after changing the rear tires, where as before it was only a slight issue.. And it happens wherever I drive, no matter what condition the road surface is.. I took her up to 110 mph tonite on a flat 'back road' and man it was scarry! (though it might get better over 100 or something ..nope) Like I said, I'll get the alignment checked out.. and probly try running 4 tires the same size.. I'm thinking its mostly alignment related now.. I did some HARD cornering tonite at 70+ mph and the car reacted amazinly through the twisties at that speed.. but as soon as the straightaway comes up.. hang on for dear life! I'll let you guys know what happens..
Cross drilled rotors warped in 10 mos!
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
You definitely want to do a search on this topic. Has been discussed regularly. Some pads are much better than others. Also chances are your rotors aren't "warped" but just have an uneven layer of break pad material fused on the surface. You can probably clean them up, add a fresh set of pads and be good to go.
The break in procedure for new pads and rotors is essentially driving though a parking lot, speeding up and breaking hard without ever letting the car come to a complete stop. Start with low speeds and work your way up to faster speeds. This heats up the pads, depositing an even layer of brake pad material on the rotors. If you let the car come to a complete stop, the pads will stick to the rotor depositing a thick layer at that point.